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Everything posted by AquaAurora

  1. thanks for the tip, I may grab myself a lidded container and do that.
  2. yeah that's kinda what I thought and I didn't want to go from 0.3% to 0% with salt only in a bag taking hours to (day) to dissolve.. I'll try to slap it in a nylon stocking and put ti on the tank for the rest of the day/night.
  3. SO I bring some water to a near boil (bubbles at bottom of put but not a rolling boil) then pour it into a bowl with per-measured out aq salt (30 level teaspoons for a 10g at 0.3% salinity) and let it dissolve over night, almost 36 hours actually.. do a water change and pour the water in (goldfish are in a separate cube until wc is done) and look how much aq salt is still left! Looks like about 10-15 teaspoons worth. Should I put this in a nylon stocking and plop it in the tank? or it just won't dissolve any more?
  4. Well that's quite scary as I have one of those I was planning to use for my 2x 75gs O.O What's the serial # range for this defect? I want to check mine Air stone and daily water change on canister filter to add tank water with ammonia to it, or put media directly into tank with air stone (bit messy) seem like good options. I've stuffed media into a large HOB before to keep it going when canister couldn't work (tank too low to floor).
  5. WOW Well just colorful and tall its a 36 gallon bow front hun.. Silk if you have some Oh and I forgot to say... they cant have medal in them.. I bought one and it had part of the fake plant going to the bottom and I didnt see it was exposed so it rusted in my tank. I got a rust ring at the bottom Sorry you had a metal issue. If you notice fake decor with exposed metal prior to getting them wet you can cover the metal in either super glue or silicone (GE I door and window is the most used in aquariums but any silicone that does not have anti mold/mildew additives works) let cure 48 hours and you're good. I did this with silk plants that had a lava rock like base I wanted to use for a betta (base would shred fins), covered based in silicone (applies with a medical glove) betta fins are only damaged because he's a tail biter now, not from decor (he's a half moon double tail (read heavy fins) and wants to be a plakat)
  6. Didn't see a thread for this, so wanted to make one: Where users can post photos of and pine/drool/whimper/whatever over bettas they've seen at the store/on ebay/on aqaubid/etc that they can't or are resisting the urge to buy. These are from my local petco yesterday, take a guess at my favorite color ^^ A double tail plakat, has a sexy long dorsal fin! Poor thing already has diamond eye (scales growing over eyes-so partially blind) Cute lil' blue marble crowntail.. not typically a crowntail fan but like him. Metallic scale plakat, cellophane(clear) in fins will get taken over by red with time Elepahtn ear plaakt ooo tempting Another ee plaakt but hard to see (murky freaking cups), yes he is a light pastel hue Double tail plakat mustard (notice i like plakats? ^^) This poor boy has been here for MONTHS, he's not double tail, he's actually a delta, he's bitten his tail (probably going mad from being in that awful cut so long) stunning color still though, jsut not a fan of the spoon head-ed-ness There is a reason i don't usually go into petstores anymore.. and its the 8 betta tanks I already have running from lack of will power x.x
  7. wow look how much his fins grew between the before and after shots too! Lovely fish ^^
  8. Yes sorry if my post made it sound like death is a strong possibility, did not intend for that impression, but its still a possibility. For what its worth I'd not want a betta that looks like one that just passed as I'd expect it to act the same as the now dead done, and would be disappointed when it did not, and be reminding its not the same as my now dead betta.. but that's just my opinion (and is why me and my hubby got a corgi instead of another black lab when ours was put down-to have something totally different and not put expectations on the new dog that it couldn't meet). But plenty of people buy new bettas that look a lot like the one they just lost.
  9. Sorry to hear but at least you did not risk exposing him to your other betta.
  10. ...And that single-handedly changed my mind about the whole thing. He's a very sweet Betta, I bet he'd be toast the moment I looked away. Yeh i think that deters a lot of people from breeding their favorite 'pet' betta. When they're bred for show/sale its just par for the corse , don't get too attached to anyone.
  11. Average betta life span is about 2.5 years, but some do live longer than that (my oldest is about 2.8 now). Below is info I've gathered from reading sites and a bettafish specific forum, I've never actually bred bettas but I did research it for a while (too lazy for all that work though >.> ) Before you decide to breed you really need to be committed to all the work that lies ahead, including possble damage or death to parents when trying to breed them, possibly a ton of babies, lots of water changes, Betta fry can't be kept together in the same tank permanently, usually by the 2 month mark (or sooner) you'll have to start jarring the males, and possibly some rowdy females which quickly turns into a daunting task of daily water cahnges on every single jar + feeding each individual fish... might not seem bad if you keep goldfish and water change frequently but betta can have well over 100 babies. You need to pre-plan where all your excess betta babies wil go when they're old enough, find a pet stores that will take them? ebay? local fish club? etc. here are some photos from breeders in thailand, all those jars have 1 Betta in each container! http://bettasource.com/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2014/post-541-0-48760000-1416585453.jpg http://www.victoriabetta.com/uploads/7/0/4/6/7046952/7180371.jpg?430 You can't skimp on the water changes of the fry may not grow properly due to the growth stunting hormone all fry give off to try to out compete siblings to grow faster. The tricky part will be heating all the individual jars/cups, unless you have some large bins you can put an aquarium heater in, fill shallow and put cups in there (with lids). Another option is heating tape but I have no experience with that. Before you even get to having babies you need to get yourself a gal betta and a tank for her to live in (she only spends a short time with your boy). Conditioning bettas for breeding usually means feeding meat foods only like brine shrimp, blood worms, black worms, s Male's tank will need plenty of cover in-case things don't go so smoothly many use a 10g. Conditioning is working when female because loaded with eggs and male builds a bubble nest (though some males procrastinate on bubble nest building until the female wants to drop her eggs NOW). When they're ready place the girl in a cup and float her int eh boys tank, let them get to know eachother from a safe distance first. Some people schedule releasing their females in to breed around thunder storms as the pressure change can trigger mating behavior. I've read some breeders will do a water change on the breeding tank and put in new water via watering pale or 'rain' system to simulate the rainy season (trigger breeding behavior) but if the male already has a bubble nest he may have to rebuild from the water disruption. When female is released some breeders watch the two like a hawk as things can get bloody (I've seen some very mauled males, or females harasses/stressed to death), but others put a towel over the tank and leave them be as they claim the bettas will just look for food from the owner if they can see 'em. When they breed the female will be 'wrapped' by the male and flipped onto her back, release egg,s eggs should (hopefully) be fertilized and float into the bubble nest, missed eggs ma be picked up by one or both bettas from the bottom and places in bubble nest (no substrate may be helpful as they can find fallen eggs easier). it can take may wrap attempts for a virgin before they get it right, and they may do many or just a few successful wraps depending on how eggy the female is and if she doesn't get sick of him. When the 'fun' is over the male becomes very protective of the bubble nest and will chase of the female, if she's left in too long past this point he may even kill her. Female should be placed back in her tank and allowed to recover. At this point the male should tend the nest, placing any eggs that drop out back in and such, but sometimes a new daddy will eat the eggs (sometimes from lack of experience, or because they were not fertilized). You'll have to look up how long it takes for eggs to hatch, become free swimming, I can't recall the number of days. Techniques tend to split here as some people will keep the male in the tank with the fry others remove daddy when fry are free swimming (some even before eggs hatch). If you notice the male eating fry/fry #s dwindling you should remove their father. Those that keep them in do so because fry seem to do better as parents themselves when raised with dad (father should be removed before fry start getting into their nippy teen stage). I've read its best to keep tank shallowly filled when fry are free swimming, or even move them to a 5g, as a larger tank they can burn all their energy trying to swim across the tank to reach food, this is just or first week or two. But as they grow they'll need a larger tank, some people will use a few 20g longs, 40g breeders, or even 55gs depending on # of fry. Fun time.. fry food.. many people hatch baby brine shrimp for the betta fry, but this a huge pain. I don't know how successfully it is but omega one has frozen baby brine shrimp that can be used as a substitute. As the fry grow then y can get micro worms/vinegar eel (more live food culturing), and gradually move up to larger foods. Again you'll have to look up specific ages/sizes fro these food transitions. Other food option include egg yoke strained through a fine mesh (is messy may need a water change after feeding), some use hikari first bites too. A lot of people will keep moss in the fry grow out tank as it naturally grows infusoria which the tiny fry can eat. Daily water changes to remove the growth stunting hormone is key here. Oh and I forgot to add, best filter is a cycled air pump driven sponge filter-fry don't' get sucked in and turned into pate like HOBs and other filter options. I've read that as early as 6 weeks to 2 month range you'll start seeing aggression and have to jar individuals. Fry usually grow faster in warmer water (low 80sF) and especially clean water. Culling... well that your call but its best to get rid of ones will messed up spines, missing ventrals, etc as they'll be harder to sell/find a home for but some people try to keep them all and just adopt out the deformed fry. Did I mention daily water changes?-seriously keep up on these. Ok that's all I can think of atm, but there is more! But I'm freaking hungry so going to make lunch ^^'' I won't pot the forum link as I believe its against rules to link other forums, but there is a bettafish specific forum that has its own sub section for breeding 'how to's/breeding logs that's very helpful.
  12. Forgot about this one, hubby made it for me a few years ago as I tended to drop (and subsequently break) the api glass vials a lot. Just a left over wood scrap, 2x4 i think? He drilled several holes in that snugly hold the vials (makes shaking/mixing several at once much easier, say if I want to do a nitrate test on 6 tanks).
  13. Wait you mean this 'her' was actually successful in that method of phone holding?
  14. I've used nylon stock/panty hose without issue in the past, just make sure there are no tears in it. Can get them very cheap at grocery store or dollar store. But if you want something easier to untie for reuse the link arctic mama gave is a good idea, or search amazon/ebay for "filter media bag". Seachem makes "the bag" which has a lot of reviews on amazon, and is a very fine mesh. I've also cut and re-used a purgigen bag (from sachem) resealed via clothing iron on a low setting, but this is a bit more permanent as you're melting it closed.
  15. Chris here... Where did you find the feed cone??? I just might need one in the future... I got one of those to use for my hubby's dwarf puffer and live black worms but the suction cup was such junk it never stayed on the glass >.< I resorted to feeding via pipet or long tweezers. I'd offer to ship you cone feeder for cost of postage but its probably just as cheap to get one new from china via ebay.
  16. I did, and gotta say i had a laugh at your comment at 0:53-0:56 (first video). Well, they should be good for something, right? : Well if you're in any sort of relationship I'm sure they have a use >.>'' I sure did... I guess if they are big enough you could.. Mine wouldnt hold it I just about peed my self Maybe those women body builders would be able to? uuuh that's a disturbing image, sorry i mentioned it >.<
  17. I did, and gotta say i had a laugh at your comment at 0:53-0:56 (first video).
  18. Edward can be a girls name ^^ Have you seen the anime 'CowBoy Bebop'? The child genius calls herself Edward Wong Hau Pepelu Tivrusky IV.
  19. Sorry for not responding sooner, I can't really say what is up with his fins I've not see ones do that before so no helpful input from me, sorry O.o
  20. Thanks all. I believe it's Java moss. I had a 5 gallon bucket outside, which got filled with rain water. Some time later it became infested with mosquito larvae so I decided to pour the contents into my tank and give the goldies a mosquito larvae treat. The moss came along as a single strand hitchhiker and then grew to what you see in the picture. Wow really!? From your photo it looks like one of the 'fancier' moss types (like peacock or Christmas) rather than the typically messy java moss. Do you ever thin it out or simply don't touch the moss at all? Sorry if you'd answered this in the thread and I missed it but: what is the depth of your substrate?
  21. WOW that is one lush moss carpet! Which species of moss is it? I had the best success with fissidens but only had it in a 2g cookie jar (betta). I'd think goldfish with their want to sift substrate woudl make it impossible to get a carpet like that.
  22. I did not get a picture, I'm sorry. It sounds lame now, but I walked out of the store and tried to put him out of my head. (Obviously failed.) I was out of town yesterday. I can go back to the store today and get a photo. I'm trying so hard to make a careful, considered decision about getting another fish.I don't like the tank because it is hard to clean. There's a division in the bottom that keeps me from getting too deep into the gravel when I vacuum. The filter and lights are built into the tank, making it tough to make adjustments. (For example, I have live plants and I would like different lights.) The filter has two, strong outflows that I baffled, and Shiro seems happy, but any time I move the lid the baffles fall off and have to be adjusted. The water parameters and temperature fluctuate far more than my 20g. Also, the heater light indicates that it's working, but the temperature is down to 74°F in an un-air-conditioned house, in the summer! The unheated 20g is four degrees warmer. I'm going to get a better heater, but I hesitate to make the purchase if I'm switching tanks. It's good to know about your experience with dividers! I will do more research into those, especially the craft mesh. (I know it as plastic canvas, I think that's the same thing?) I'm told that bettas can "smell" other bettas in the water. Do divided tanks stress them out? I don't want to hurt them. Shiro's current tank. ETA: Shiro is in front of the leaf "wallpaper" in the middle right top of the tank. Ah i hate those 'all in one' tanks. i usually buy my tank/light/filter piece email (seperate). Yes the plastic canvas mesh. Theres some arguments about the 'smelling' other bettas.. seems a lot of people on the betta forum I read up on a while back say keeping a male and female in a divided tank is worse then 2 males (divided), or 2 females (divided). best thing to do it actually split into 3 compartments and put heater/filter in middle section + lots of real/fake plants to make it impossible for them to see eachother 'across the way'. If you only want to split into 2 sections denesly plant/decorate against the divider on both sides (all the way to the surface-minimize where they could see eachother.
  23. Thank you everyone that posted here and gave input! There are now 2 new lil' goldies in qt that are maybe 2" body at most (cube there are in is 5.5"-Sprinkles would be just about touching both sides from nose to tail tip in here now). Hope they make it through qt ^^ Checking out the riparium/aquaponic room In acclamation cube (airstone put in after photo was taken) More photos and info in my journal/blog:http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/124166-aquaauroras-goldfish-mts-chronicles/
  24. Did you take any photos of the betta you were looking at you can share? Fins might be clamped if dorsal, pectorals, and anal fins are held close to body, and caudal fin is not spread open (looks like a closed hand help fan) -usually means fish is sick or very uncomfortable. But there are plenty of bettas with fin deformities either from damage that's healed, curled fins (genetic flaw-not health related), or other reasons. Are you saying you hate the koi betta (if so can you illiterate why? don't like color? attitude?) or you hate the 4g tank? A 2.5g with a small heater (adjustable heaters are typically more reliable than pre-set or 'constant on' style heaters) is plenty to start with a new betta. Having a filter is helpful but keeping up with water changes they can survive without a filter (use Seachm Prime to bind ammonia and nitrite). You can keep 2 bettas in a divided tank but you really need to make sure that divider is secure and there is a tight fitting lid that presses right against it. There is a bettafish specific forum with a good DIY tank divider thread using silicone, plastic binder sleeves, and craft mesh. I had a bad experience with a cheap store bought divider and one of my bettas jumped through a 1/2" gap that was 2" above the water line to get to the othrr side-btw said betta was beat up by the other betta but I found them quick and moved them to separate tanks. Never did divided tanks again If you want to keep bettas in a divided tank make sure to put any new betta though quarantine in a separate tank first to ensure it doesn't spread disease/parasite etc to already healthy fish. Worst case you can keep new fish floating in a cup in the divided tank and do water changes daily (and dose prime for ammonia) until qt period has finished.
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