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    3 Water piggies

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  1. I would also make sure your intake pipe is fully connected to the hose and that there isn't any space or air escaping. My Fluval 306 has been running for 2.5 years and when it makes noises like that it's usually from not enough suction to get water to the canister. The other times when it made a loud noise is when I accidentally put the cap from the underside of the motor on incorrectly. You can actually put it on incorrectly and still have it fit snugly, which will cause a loud rumbling noise.
  2. Would you believe that ranchu was olive like the small olive lionhead? She's losing her black too.
  3. The trickle filter has been up for about 4 months now and I haven't had one problem with it. I started off with a powerhead rated about 250gph and I found that water barely made it to the end of the trickle spray bar, so I upgraded and bought an adjustable flow pump that's rated up to 595 gph. I crank it up to about 350 gph and have pretty even flow throughout the trickle spray bar. I will caution you that if you buy it from amazon, make sure to measure your tank because as you can see in my tank, the tube that came with the trickle filter connecting the pump to the trickle filter wasn't long enough so I had to buy that black extension to make it reach. As for maintenance, it takes 5 minutes. I just lift the boxes, rinse, and throw out the filter floss and replace with new. So much easier than when I have to clean the canister. I've had no leaks, nothing. If you're sensitive to noise, you might not want to get it because it does create a bunch of water trickling noise which compared to a HOB is much noisier. Setup was a breeze and it is very well made. If you want more info or pics just let me know
  4. Hey all, it's been a while since I've posted (busy with work and life), but I wanted to give you guys a glimpse of my new setup. (old tank updates are coming) This is my current 40B setup with 5 new fish (1 ranchu hybrid and 4 lionheads). Yes, it's a heavily stocked tank, and I feed them 3-4x a day, so you can imagine the waste being produced, but this is how I keep my water chemistry in tip top shape. I have 0's across the board, and here's how: 1. Daily 30% WC (back to bucket method since my new home has a fancy spa-head for a sink) 2. Trickle Filter- the trickle filter has a 590 gph pump powering it. 3. Fluval 306 4. Veggie Filter- this is my lucky bamboo veggie filter. Some people haven't had any luck, but it's clear my lucky bamboo are thriving and loving the poopy fish water.
  5. I do 20-25% daily WC during the summer/fall, and 30% in winter/spring depending on how warm the ground water is.
  6. I think my Lionhead Dumpdy would feel right at home over there among the whales .
  7. Thanks Jared. My greatest fear right now is that my other fish might be at risk if there's something left in the tank and if so, whether I should add any meds or anything as preventive care. (metro, kana, general cure, I have all of them)
  8. Hey y'all, never thought I need some help, but I do! I am totally stumped at something that claimed my blue oranda (Harrieta the floaty one) last night It happened within a day and I didn't even have time to post about her distress or anything because it occurred when I came home from work and she died the same night. She was fine on Monday. No split fins, redness, nothing. She wasn't even floaty. Then yesterday, she became floaty, came back from work, she was floating sideways with tons of split fins. I am stumped at this point and not sure whether I need to treat the other fish or not. Other fish are eating, no signs of distress at all, but since this moved so quickly I just wanted some more opinions. I don't think it's a water quality issue since I do daily 25-30% change and tested my water yesterday and today and everything still shows 0. Any thoughts? Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank): 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) : 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) : 0 * Ammonia Level(Tap) : 0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) : 0 * Nitrate level(Tap): 0 * Ph Level, Tank: 7.2 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Drops Water test kit * Water temperature? 79* * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 40B * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval 406, Powerhead with sponge, and veggie filter * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Everyday 25-30% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 large blue oranda (was 291 grams), 1 large lionhead(about 400+ grams), and one medium oranda (170 grams) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? typically none unless I clean the fluval filter and then I add prime. * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food (sinking/floating pellets, gel food, steamed vegetable, etc.), --> twice a day, repashy with hilkari mixed in * Any new fish added to the tank? none * Any medications added to the tank? None, typically add a couple tablespoons of AQ after water change * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. They get a monthly 2 day prazi round for upkeep, but during QT, they had prazi and AQ salt for 3 weeks in QT. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? None, except for when she died yesterday. When I left for work, she was floaty and getting picked on by the male for spawning reasons, but didn't see any split fins. When I came home, after 8 hours, her fins were split and she was floating sideways. I quickly put her in a QT with AQ salt at 1% thinking superficial wounds and give her some quiet time without the males pestering her. She was in there for about 2 hours and died by 9pm. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? She's always been a bit floaty till I switched her diet to mainly repashy or mixed repashy and hikari blended in. She showed great signs of recovery and had 0 problems with her floatiness for about 4 months. Then yesterday hit and she died very quickly. If I had to guess what killed her, I am going to bet she had a compromised immune system from spawning, but I'm not sure since it feels like everything happened within a day. It was that fast, didn't even had time to post about it till now.
  9. This happens to a lot of goldfish owners who have decorations in their tanks. If you have some pictures that would definitely help the D&D mods. I did have the same experience when my blue oranda got stuck and the right and left side got pretty banged up. The good news is that goldfish heal quickly and so if you just have pristine water conditions with some AQ salt to stimulate the slime coat and healing process that's all you really need for superficial wounds. The key is pristine water so no secondary infection sets in. Hope your fish feels better!
  10. I feed mine a table spoon of repashy, typically in an ice cube shape. I store it all in a tuberware container in the fridge. I then take that spoon and break it into smaller bites about the size of a pearl and dump it into the tank and each fish can swallow a whole chunk. I do it twice a day so they all get their fair share. My big lionhead eats most of it since he's the largest and fastest eater, but the two orandas get their share too.
  11. I just saw this post, and wanted to give my 2 cents since I live in the bayou and experience this problem every summer. The problem we have in the bayou is that the tap water goes from mild to warm right when the temperatures start creeping in the summer and this doesn't change till late fall. On average, the regular tap water comes out at 81* F in the summer. When it hits late fall, the water temperature from the tap goes back down to 73-74 and then colder in the winter. The problem is that my condo's temp is set at 72. The tank temperature will slowly match the air temperature, but due to high water temperature from the tap when I do my daily water change, I had to fix this problem preventing shocking my fish with the temperature change. (I had one painful temp shock that killed 2 of my fish). What I do now, is that i make sure to change a little less water, instead of 30% daily, I do about 20% daily. I also keep a heater in there to set my tank temperature at 79* F so that there won't be a big influx in temperature change. If I do more than 30% WC, my tank temperature will creep up to 81* making it a bit warmer so that's why I do smaller WCs and keep a heater in there. Basically the heater will condition the fish to live happily at 79* and if there is an influx up to 81* it doesn't affect them much or any at all.
  12. I have troubleshooted a couple of canisters and had some pretty good success, but the easiest way to fix leaking problems on canisters is to first check all of the O-Rings and make sure they are all in tact and not nicked or cracked. With Fluvals, the O-rings on the actual canister lid and the hose attachments are the ones with the most common breaks in them. If you have had your canister for a while, those are typically the o-rings that break first from common use. Lastly, if after you have checked all the o-rings and still haven't solved your problem, I would highly recommend looking for the replacement parts for your canister and see if you can order the whole set and just doing a rebuild of your canister. It's much cheaper than buying a new one and should fix your problem after you replace all the parts. Fluval typically offers a whole set of replacement part for the filter. (reason why I am such a fan of fluval because they offer all of these parts and is typically easier to troubleshoot. Good luck, hope this helps!
  13. No problem. I order mine at https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Soilent-Green-Sizes-340g/dp/B00RSILXAS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466571631&sr=8-2&keywords=repashy
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