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xStatic

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  1. That looks cool, and like hard work. We built three raised flower beds last week and I almost died.
  2. Just an update for the records. I was finally able to get the tank temp up to 78/79F (I have a lot of aeration going right now so I'm not worried about O2) and they've been at 0.3% salt for a couple days. They're looking so much better, the ich cycsts are almost all gone and then I'll keep them in the warm water with salt for another week after 100% of the cysts are gone. The goldfish are no longer bottom sitting and seem to be feeling relieved from the parasites. The fish are all very actively swimming again so I'm happy.
  3. I noticed in OPs original post they said that their tap water was testing 20ppm for nitrate, so it seems like it would be difficult for them to keep the tank nitrates in the healthy/safe range without dosing Prime daily or adding a lot of nitrate consuming plants? Could the long-term exposure to this level of nitrates be contributing to the fish's condition?
  4. You're going to be asked to fill out this form to give a better idea of the situation to those who can help, I pasted the form below for you. I think it might be excess slime coat being produced? I'm sure more experienced members will be here very quickly to give better advice and input. Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems: Please follow this instruction. Copy the form, paste it in your post, and fill in your answers after the questions. To help us even more, you can italize or color your answers, to make them easy to find, but you don't have to do that. Feel free to use metric units, I didn't use both systems here to keep things compact. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) If you have a test kit, take these readings before you do a water change. If you don't have a test kit and can't get one immediately, please take samples of tank and tap water to your fish /pet store and request a test. Demand numbers for each test. * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) Please test tap water. It may contain ammonia or nitrate. Tap water often varies in quality with weather/season, so don't just report an old test. * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Difference in the pH of tank and tap can cause distress in your fish. We need both tap and tank results. * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) If you don't have KH and GH tests and have municipal water, you can often get this information from the water company. Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Please answer both brand and type. * Water temperature? If you don't use a heater, give the the air temperature. * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? Please answer both questions. If you aren't sure of the volume of the tank, give the length, width, and height. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? By the "size" of the filter we mean the gph/lph that it claims to turn over. * How often do you change the water and how much? Please answer both questions. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Please answer both questions * How many fish in the tank and their size? You may give the weight of each fish or the length. For goldfish, include the variety, and use (and indicate that you used) the standard length (sl) -- the length from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail fin. You can estimate length. For example: 1 oranda, 3" sl, 2 pearlscales 1.5" and 2" sl. For other species of fish that don't vary in tail length, you may use total length, from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail fin, but please specify. For example: 2 bristlenose plecos 3" tl * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Water conditioner means the agent used against chlorine. If you don't use a water conditioner, say why, for example, "well water." "Water additives" include anything else that you regularly or recently have added to your water, including buffers, water clarifiers, algaecides, etc. * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food (sinking/floating pellets, gel food, steamed vegetable, etc.), and how frequently you feed each. * Any new fish added to the tank? If you have added new fish in the past few months, indicate which ones, the duration of quarantine, and any treatments you used during quarantine. * Any medications added to the tank? This includes any used recently or currently in the tank. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. This can be a long answer if you have a sickly fish. You can link to old D/D threads if we have advised on treatment before. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? List all physical symptoms. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? List all behavioral symptoms.
  5. Oh my gosh! I'm counting 9 fish too I think? I'm curious to see what the water params come out being! Do you guys have a plan for what you're going to do with the fish? How long has she had them? Best of luck!
  6. Thanks for the info! I will do this. My fish are bottom sitting a lot today, I hope they start perking up soon.
  7. I'm having trouble getting the temperature of my tank to go above 76F. I think its a combination of the basement where my tank is set up being too cool and my heater not being powerful enough. Is 76F warm enough for the treatment to be effective or am I going to have to buy a more powerful heater?
  8. Thanks guys! Another question, is this salt safe to use in the tank? I looked everywhere for mortons brand pickling salt but none of the stores I checked carried it. They had every other variety of mortons salt except the salt for canning and pickling. The ingredients on this package just say salt and there are no anti-caking agents or iodine so I'm guessing it's safe?
  9. I am familiar with treating ich but I wanted to make a post in this forum to log everything and get help from others if I need it! Here we go... Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) 5ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) 0ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0-8.2 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0-8.2 Note: I changed 80-90% of the water as a normal water change on Wednesday 6/1 and then when I noticed the ich yesterday evening 6/2 I changed 90% of the water again. I also vaccumed the sand both times and yesterday and I rinsed my filter media in a bucket of tank water to clean it a bit. I forgot to test the water before this second water change so the results above were taken this morning. Before I changed the water on Wednesday I noticed my pH was a bit higher than normal (~8.3) and I thought this was the reason my fish were bottom-sitting but I now know the ich was the reason they were bottom sitting. Before the Wednesday water change Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master Kit * Water temperature? 72F Yesterday, 74F as of right now, I will continue to raise it slowly * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 60 Gallons, set up for about a month but the filters have been running for ~5months. A portion of my sand was moved from my cycled 29gallon to the 60gallon. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Penguine 350 (350gph), Aquaclear 70 (300gph) and a small sponge filter (rated for 20-40 gallon tank I think?) I perform weekly water changes of about 80%I * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Last night (6/2), 90% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 4" oranda, 3" oranda, 2.5" ryukin, 1.5-2" fantail * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seacheam Prime for water changes * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food (sinking/floating pellets, gel food, steamed vegetable, etc.), and how frequently you feed each. Saki Hikari, Repashy Soilent Green, occasionally bloodworms and/or edamame. I mainly feed Soilent Green, enough for each fish to have 2-3 bite-sized pieces. I usually feed soilent green twice a day. A few times a week I feed a coupe pinches of Saki Hikari, on those days I usually only feed in the morning. * Any new fish added to the tank? The small fantail was added recently after living alone for 2.5 weeks. She was treated with 0.3% salt for a week and then Prazi with 0.1% salt for another week. I had to move her to the main tank because I accidentally cracked the 29 gallon she was in. * Any medications added to the tank? When I added the small fish to my main tank I gave the whole tank one dose of Prazi to prevent my old fish from passing flukes to her for some reason. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. All fish have gone through Prazi/Salt treatments in QT, my largest oranda was treated with Dimilin -X during QT for fish mites. Yesterday evening I added 1 cup of aquarium salt to the tank because that's all I had left on hand. I'm leaving to go buy pickling salt from the store now. This dose is a little lower than 0.1% (I needed 1.25 cups of salt to bring the concentration to 0.1% but I didn't have enough salt). I also started the process of raising the temperature. The fish seem to be doing better this morning after a night in the salt. I also turned on my bubble wall yesterday which is powered by the so between that and my sponge filter there is a lot of aeration. Both are powered by a large tetra whisper rated for 60-100 gallons. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Typical "grains of salt" ich symptoms. There are not too many cysts at this point, I can see ~10 on each fish's tail fin. My red oranda is flashing and rubbing against the substrate every once in a while. My largest oranda has been bottom-sitting a lot. There are no other physical symptoms. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? See above. They are eating fine, swimming around normally when I approach the tank. Things I still have questions about - how often should I be changing the water now that treatment has started and what % water change should I be performing? Should I stop or reduce feeding to maintain better water quality or should I continue to feed normally so they fish have more energy to fight the parasites? Should I keep the aquarium lights on/off or does it not matter? Thank you so much!
  10. UGH! It's ICH! I don't know what I added to the tank that could have been contaminated with ich, but they all definitely have it. Doesn't explain the pH change or ammonia, but it explains the bottom sitting. I noticed it when I saw Mango flashing and rubbing against the sand. I'm really annoyed at myself. I'll make a new thread in the disease and diagnosis forum later when I can properly fill out the questionnaire, but for now I removed the plants, did a 90% WC, bumped the temp a little bit (from 72-74, I will continue bumping it over the next couple days) and raised salinity to 0.1%. I also turned on their bubble wall that I had previously turned off to help increase oxygenation in the tank. Poor fishies
  11. I'll join in then! I was considering doing the 1-month subscription soon anyway, I wanted to see what it's like to be a cool subscriber! I get a little too busy during the school semesters to spend much time online, but this forum has already helped me out a ton and it's a fun place to come when I have free time in the summer and winter breaks.
  12. I'm not sure what is going on with my tank, it's definitely not an emergency but it's a bit strange. Yesterday I noticed my two orandas bottom sitting in the corner of my aquarium. They usually sleep together in the corners of the tank but they never normally rest on the substrate. When I walked up to the tank they seemed to "wake up" and start swimming around normally, but then I would find them on the bottom again. Last night I started a water change and ran the usual tests with the results ammonia=0.25ppm, nitrite=0ppm, nitrate=5-10ppm, and surprisingly my pH had increased from it's usual 8.0 to somewhere between 8.2-8.4. My pH is usually very stable so I was surprised to see a test result that was different from my normal reading. I also am a bit worried about the slight ammonia reading because all of my filters have been fully cycled for about 4-5 months now. I did however move my two HOB filters and my sponge filter as well as my old sand substrate to a new aquarium several weeks ago but the transition seemed to go smoothly and the test parameters always came out in the normal safe ranges. A little over two weeks ago I cracked the bottom pane of glass in my 29 gallon and I had to move my 2" goldfish into the 60 gallon with my three other goldfish, but with weekly 80% water changes everything in the tank has seemed fine. I performed a 90% water change last night after testing the water and now the fish are acting normally again. The pH in the tank is back to where it normally is and I can't figure out what could have caused the pH to increase? I'm guessing the change in pH is what caused my fish to bottom sit. The pH of the water out of my tap is 8.0 like it normally is. The only things I have changed in the tank recently is adding a fairly large piece of driftwood, but I thought that driftwood would acidify water if anything, not make it more basic? I also added some pothos plants to my HOB filters and planted a couple aquatic plants in the aquarium (2 anubias, some elodea, and some wisteria). Another oddity was that my nitrates were only 5-10ppm. Normally by the time I am due for the weekly 80% water change my nitrates are around 20ppm (this was true even before I added the small 2" fish to the main tank). I kind of attributed this to the addition of the plants but the pothos hasn't even had time to grow aquatic roots yet and I don't think my small amount of aquatic plants would be able to remove 10ppm nitrate from the water? The lower nitrates may be because I inadvertently fed my fish more sparsely this week. I really can't think of anything else that has changed, and I'm going to keep a close eye on my water params and do a water change whenever I need to but I'm a little worried I'm going through some type of cycle bump.
  13. It's a little jagged, although nothing sharp enough that I would be uncomfortable rubbing the palms of my hands over. I found it in a stream so I guess some of the edges have been worn smooth by the water, but there are some edges that aren't smooth (I wouldn't really call them sharp though). Do you think the fish will hurt themselves on it? It passed the vinegar test and then I poured boiling water over it. I have to go to work soon so I will leave it on my desk to cool and decide what to do with it when I get home tonight! What kind of goldfish do you have? Maybe you could file down the edges, smooth them out. I just have orandas and fantails, so they're pretty tough fish. I think I'll try to sand down the more sharp edges, but overall it's not too bad.
  14. It's a little jagged, although nothing sharp enough that I would be uncomfortable rubbing the palms of my hands over. I found it in a stream so I guess some of the edges have been worn smooth by the water, but there are some edges that aren't smooth (I wouldn't really call them sharp though). Do you think the fish will hurt themselves on it? It passed the vinegar test and then I poured boiling water over it. I have to go to work soon so I will leave it on my desk to cool and decide what to do with it when I get home tonight!
  15. Sorry if this is in the wrong section - I wasn't sure where to post I found this rock a couple days ago on a hike and I was wondering if it would be okay to place it in my tank? I believe it's mostly Quartz but obviously there are some other types of rocks/minerals incorporated in the rock. I am a little weary of the red coloration because I thought it might be iron in the rock? I read somewhere to pour vinegar over the rock and if it doesn't react it should be safe to place in the aquarium. Is that true? If I could use it that would be great because it's a very pretty rock! It's quite large as well, about 6x4x3inches.
  16. Hi! I'm no goldfish expert but from what I've seen comets and shubunkins usually grow very long caudal fins. Comets look a lot like commons except their tails are usually longer and more deeply forked. I think pretty much all shubunkins have long tails (there might be short finned varieties that I haven't heard about) but I would say you're pretty much certain to have two fish with long fins. The fins will continually grow as the goldfish get older. It seems for a while when the fish are still very young and growing rapidly the fins stay somewhat in proportion to the bodies and they're long but they don't appear super long. Then as the fish get a little bit older and their bodies stop growing as quickly the fast growth of the fins become more apparent and you get the look of really long fins. I'm sure that all also depends on things like the fishs' genetics, water quality, diet, etc.
  17. Thank you so much! The website of my local water treatment plant lists chlorine levels as 0.18-0.72ppm with an average of 0.40ppm. And my city doesn't use chloramines luckily. I think I will give Seachem a call and see what they tell me I was also wondering, if I'm doing a water change with a python and using Safe do I just add the full dose to the tank before refilling like I would with Prime? Should I dissolve it first in a small cup of water before adding it or anything?
  18. If you skip to around 3:20 in the video you can see a closer shot of Pebble.
  19. My fish Pebble has changed a lot since I first got her. I've noticed that she's developing a little more of a curve to her back than my orandas and I was wondering if anyone thinks she may be a ryukin or maybe a ryukin cross? Or just a fantail with a slightly deeper body. I've seen tiny baby ryukins that already have a very prominent hump on their back when they're pretty much still just fry, but I've seen other baby ryukins that just looks like fantails when they're young. I've had Pebble for about 5 months now, and I don't really know how old she was when I got her, but probably not very old. Picture from 5 months ago: Video from now (I can't get good recent photos):
  20. Sorry to intrude in this thread, but I had been wondering the same thing. I have a bottle of Seachem Safe that I haven't opened yet because I still have Prime left, but when I need to start using it can I just scale this dosing down for any size aquarium, or do I need to take into account my local water? I have a 60-65 gallon aquarium. So 5 scoops for 90 gallons would be 3.3? scoops for 60 gallons.
  21. Okay, since two people have suggested these containers now I guess I'll have to go out and get some! I'm betting I can find something similar at the dollar store. I was initially worried about the fish having access to the roots because I read once that it's bad for the fish to eat these roots because 1) pothos is toxic to many types of animals and 2) the roots uptake bad compounds like nitrates, ammonia, etc. and it wouldn't be healthily for the fish to eat these toxins accumulated in the tissues of the plants (although I kind of doubt that's how the biology works - but idk I'm pretty dumb when it comes to plants!) I do have a bunch of extra fiberglass window screen, do you think that would be safe to use in an aquarium? Could I just use aquarium gravel to weight down the plants? I know pothos grow really fast so I was already planning on having to trim them back frequently. I have lots of friends who keep aquariums and ejoy houseplants so I can just pass along clippings to them and/or just toss the extra clippings when the plants get too big.
  22. Oh I might try the slate thing. Is it possible to remove the epoxy later if you no longer want the slate attached? I'm a little afraid of having heavy objects in aquariums now because a couple weeks ago I dropped a big water-filled jar a couple inched in my 29 gallon and it cracked the bottom panel of glass ): I was pretty lucky that the whole tank didn't just crash open and I had time to siphon everything out with only a minor leak. I was also lucky that I also had my main tank to put my little baby goldfish into. Anyway, I could just imagine the wood shifting and a big rock falling over and smashing the glass in my big aquarium.
  23. I got a cool piece of driftwood for my main tank and I'm pretty pleased with it Only problem is that it obviously floats ~ does anyone have any tips for helping it sink faster or is it just a waiting game? I guess I don't really mind it floating either, it doesn't look BAD in my opinion. I just think it would look better on the bottom of the tank.
  24. Thank you so much for your help! I'm glad they're not dangerous The hood/lights I have don't allow me to move the filters, so I'll have to figure out another solution because the thousands of tiny air bubbles against the black background and substrate give the water a slight cloudy appearance that I don't really like. For now I'll just keep the bubble wall off because one of my fish is still quite small and I feel like she is enjoying swimming in the tank more now that there is a but less water movement.
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