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About Butterfly

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    A pond full


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  1. Thanks! Sadly, my koi were eaten (or possibly stolen 😒) so now it is just goldfish. I thinned them out this spring, so there are probably a few dozen left now. Nothing special, just comets. In the end, better for the plants and still fun to watch.
  2. Picture of my pond is gracing the Lilypons catalog cover this year!
  3. Sunfire Rhonda Kay Bumblebee on Aesclepias Big pad, Moon Shadow Cantaloupes, cucumbers and tomatoes... oh my! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Oh, I’ve used MinnFinn with success. I don’t know if I’d shorten the quarantine period, but it certainly has increased my confidence with new fish I’ve received from sources that are questionable. I had a batch of wakin a while back with aeromonas type ulcers and they healed so quick, better than a tricide neo dip.
  5. So I’ve tried multiple different things for the nitrate issues I have. My tap water comes out at 25 ppm nitrate. Looking at the US map seems like a lot of us might have this issue. Oh, to live in a green area! I’ve tried algae scrubbers, anoxic filters, submerged plants, terrestrial planets (pothos), purigen, and matrix. I’ve used nitrate selective resins in the tank which work great, but I really wanted something to filter the incoming water. I tried a DIY filter for the tap water using the loose resin (below) but didn’t get good contact time to filter the nitrates down to where I wanted. It’s also expensive (although I found at a deep discount!) and I didn’t want to foul it using it in the tank or in a dirty canister. I’m sure there’s something else I’ve tried that I just don’t remember. This is what I finally found that works best for my situation. I bought a 4” x 10” nitrate specific filter to pre-filter my tapwater. This is how I built it for aquarium use. First you need a Pentek big blue filter housing. Mine was $25 on Amazon. I got the one with 1 inch NPT connectors. I also bought a pair of 1 inch NPT to garden hose adapters. I use Rectoseal to make sure I have a good seal for the threads. The filter is this Intelifil brand. It is about $76. Not cheap, but fortunately rechargeable (they don’t tell you that, but it can be done... see below). It can run at up to 2 gpm which for me is just below full blast out of my faucet. This is compared to 0.5 gpm of most RO units. I connect my python faucet adapter to a short segment garden reel leader hose (female to female) Screw that into this filter and then plug my long garden hose that goes to the tank into the other end. I use a lot of quick connects on my python so I also use these on the filter and hoses. When I’m storing the filter I bought a pair of hose caps to close it off. I use these nitrate test strips to test the water. I will even cut these in half to get more uses out of the bottle. How long this will filter the water of nitrate depends on the nitrate concentration of your water. The filter states it filters up to 12,000 ppm. I could not find out if this was PPM as nitrate–N, nitrate or nitrites as CaCO3. Anyway, I generally test the water after every 2-300 gallons. The nitrate concentration in my water does fluctuate. When the filter is no longer significantly reducing the nitrate concentration I regenerate it using a 10% brine solution. This is a little over 4 pounds (4.2 to be exact) of salt in 5 gallons of water. I use water softener solar salt which is about $6 for 40 pounds. I mix up the brine and pump it through the filter using a small water pump (158 gph from Harbor Freight) set on its lowest setting aiming for 2gpm or less. I connect this pump to a piece of 1/2 inch hose to which I added a female garden hose adapter to connect to the filter. I actually use the pump to move the water to dissolve the salt too (because that is a lot of salt). After I run that through I will flush with another 5 gallons of fresh water. Then it’s ready for its next use! In total this cost about $130 for everything, but I did have some of these pieces already. It is still cheaper than an RO unit and allows you to use your faucet rather than doing a slow RO water collection requiring storage. You can also daisy chain these big blue filter units together if you want a carbon filter or something else in front of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Can also use sodium percarbonate on it. Basically dry hydrogen peroxide. For ponds it is marketed as Green Clean and other names. You can get it cheaper on eBay. Bonus you can use it on your laundry and your floors! It is the active ingredient in Oxy-Clean. It will also reduce potassium permanganate if needed. I think the belief is that barley straw releases hydrogen peroxide as it decomposes, so this is basically a different form of the same treatment. I buy mine from this eBay site. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sodium-Percarbonate-Uncoated-Kosher-5-Lb-Pack-9849/192522144283?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20180306143914%26meid%3D0e3ba87cf86143acaaa5fcf4be285603%26pid%3D100935%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D192514674601%26itm%3D192522144283&_trksid=p2056116.c100935.m2460 (I’m assuming it’s hair algae that your showing. It was hard for me to tell.)
  7. For those of you with older fish, have you noticed any patterns when they died? I had an oranda, Bob, who recently passed away. I had her for about 3 1/2 years. She was quite large when I purchased her, so at least six months to one year. She was my upside down oranda, But in the last 3 to 6 months she was actually upright more often. However I did notice that she seem to be thinner and losing color despite eating well and being very active. Then one day while I was doing a water change I noticed that her scales seemed to be maybe a little lifted in one area by her tail tube. I wasn’t sure if it was real or just due to the angle her belly and her tail tube met at. She was otherwise doing fine so I let it go, figuring I would keep a close eye out. The next day she was floating upside down listlessly in the tank. She occasionally would right herself but I put her in a quarantine tank to give her rest and see what I could do. Unfortunately shortly after that she passed away. It was probably about two days. In that time while she was alive in the QT she had that “blank stare” look. This was different from other sick fish I’ve cared for and she also had some noticeable quivering, like seizures or involuntary muscle contractions. Any dropsy that she had did not get worse. I’ve seen sick fish before, and this was different. My other sick fish generally seem to have kept “brain function” despite severe dropsy. This fish seem to be gone before she died. Just curious if others had experienced this with old fish that were not necessarily sick but maybe it was their time to go? I had really hoped and expected her to live for much longer. I’m not sure if I should attribute it to disease or aging. Perhaps it was some combination of the two. The other fish in that tank is fine, perhaps just a bit lonely now. For what it’s worth, there were no recent fish introduced, the water parameters were stable. Ammonia zero. Nitrite zero. Nitrate 40 (my tapwater is 25). 95% change every week if more. Temperature is 75. PH 8.0. 55 gallon tank with two fish (now one), this oranda and a ranchu. Old pic for remembrance.
  8. Oh gawd, I am so sorry. 😱😩😭
  9. Wow! So nice. I love the stepping stone bridge. How many Koi do you have? I cant wait for it to warm up here to get the pond going.
  10. “A” little... My typos are so horrible. So embarrassing.
  11. I little expensive for a T-shirt but so adorable. The artist has several different goldfish designs. I am tempted, or maybe will just hint for my birthday (like I’m 5yo, 😂). Just sharing. https://www.redbubble.com/people/comiquarium/works/24623484-goldfish-group
  12. http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Monogenean-Parasites-of-Fish.pdf Nice article with descriptions of different types, anatomy with microscopy, life cycles, clinical signs and symptoms and several treatment strategies.
  13. So it’s been about a month since I added the kitty litter basket. I was away for most of the week so my fish had only a few feedings. I tested the water today before a water change and was pleased to see the nitrate at about 25-ish. That is just about where the tap nitrates were for the water change before. In comparison, the nitrates in a companion tank (smaller but with much lower stock level using canister +purigen) were higher, closer to but not quite 50 (using Sailfert test kit). So, encouraging preliminary results. Definitely keeps me hopeful. And yay today the tap nitrates were about 10 so it was a great day for a water change.
  14. So, I’m going to try this out in my sump. I don’t know if it will work but I figured I’d document it here. A long time ago on another (Koi) forum I was entertained by what became a long, long thread on anoxic filtration. Recently I came across some You Tube videos by Kevin Novak on anoxic filtration and his discus tanks. Since I have room in my sump I figured I’d give it a try. (I thought about adding a fluidized bed first but it’s to shallow). So, you can google for greater detail what an anoxic filter is and does but the short of it is a basket of clay kitty litter and laterite that creates a very low oxygen zone for facultative bacteria to inhabit and convert nitrate to nitrogen gas (along with the typical ammonia and nitrite conversions). Laterite is no longer sold by API but I had a leftover box, a pond plant basket and kitty litter so I was good to go. These are all things I use to plant my pond lilies so I had no concerns putting it in my goldfish aquariums. Put some litter in the basket, some laterite in the middle. Top it off with litter. I put some plastic craft mesh on the top and actually sewed it on with plastic thread to prevent any tragic accidents. Rinsed the dust out. And put it in. Nitrates are high out of my tap (yuck). Test results on day 1. Ammonia looks a tinge green for some reason in the pic. I didn’t notice it until I really looked at the picture later and so redid it and it was yellow/zero (take my word). Nitrite is zero. Nitrate next to the nitrate is the tank and the other is my tap 🤮. It’d been a few days since I had water changed. I have a canister running on this tank at the moment so this isn’t a test of how long it will take this filter to get up and going with the normal aerobic nitrification (I do plan on removing the canister at some point- this was the whole reason for the sump). I am hoping that eventually this will work and help me keep my nitrates at the level of my tap or even lower. Wouldn’t that be great! My only other choices are to cart in spring water (not happening for my big fish tanks) get an RO or ion exchange system for the house (which I’m still considering but very pricey and not ready) or using ion exchange resins in a reactor the sump (most reasonable option but have to regenerate them frequently for my nitrate levels). So for almost nothing I thought this would be great to try. My fish have lived at these nitrate levels since I’ve had them and seemingly are doing well anyway. My expectation is that if this works it is going to take several months or more. So not going to update this too frequently but I will be testing occasionally and will let you know if any magic happens. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I don’t think I have a thread here. Thought I’d share some recent pics. Playing around the the husbands new lenses and getting lucky sometimes. Too much love!!! (All eyes intact don’t worry.) Pom Pom frog head. Bubble eyes, the Basset Hounds of the fish world! This guy is so photogenic and such a poser. Big guy. Love his eyes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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