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Everything posted by hughesyau

  1. Hey fellow Aussies! Was looking for some assistance in where to obtain some Praziquantel or natural NaCl in Melbourne. Ive googled for Prazipro but all the listings appear to be from overseas, which I would prefer not to have to wait for. Does anyone have any places known that supply Prazipro or something similar? Also, rather than pay a fortune for Aquarium salt at the fish store, any suggestions on some other products that do the same thing but ideally cheaper? From a hardware store perhaps? Thanks!
  2. Thanks for your reply So currently every water change I use Fraction (supposedly a part of Prime), to de-chlorinate water. Bi-carb as a buffer. And this salt conditioning product mentioned. I am sending the manufacturer an email to try and find out what actual ingredients they use and in what concentrations, for my own knowledge. If NaCl is used at 0.3% during quarantine... Would adding this salt conditioning product stated above all the time, have detrimental effects in the long term due to constant Salt being in the water? Should I possibly instead, just add bi-carb to act as a ph buffer... and IF/WHEN needed, use salt for remedial purposes? As far as I can see/read so far, that appears to be the only time's goldfish really need salt to be used? Well I will have to source some aquarium salt and prazipro and treat my existing fishie in his current/soon to be old tank, before Hype gets placed into his new mansion, not sure if my LFS has this or not... What really gets me is the amount of misinformation stores provide you just to make sales. Sure in this world everyone wants to make money, but you would think an aquarium store would give you a bit better run down on QT requirements before they give you a fish.... Then again, they do sell goldfish bowls after all
  3. Thanks again mate. Hahaha I appreciate that generous offer, I shall look into a few of these plant species and shall post updates as I progress, detailing what plants I'm trying and how they are going!! Also, good to know that most wood appears to be fine! From my initial brief research I was worried that eucalyptus and other common Australian wood may not have been suitable! I will source an additional fluro tube and go hunting for some rocks/driftwood as soon as I get the time, if I have no success I shall take up your idea of going to a landscaping store Cheers!!!
  4. I'm glad I stumbled upon this post! I also have noticed a similar thing (to a lesser extent) on my air line in my 33 litre tank, even though I have a fish in it! I've cleaned it once and its a lot thinner now but still slightly remains. A couple of times I even noticed Hype snacking on it!?!?
  5. PS. We also add 1/8th of a teaspoon of bicarb, as this seems to help maintain our PH at a steady 7.8. I hope this plus the water conditioner wont cause any problems? PPS. (Couldnt seem to find the edit button to modify my previous post -.-)
  6. By the way, for those interested. Ammonia and Nitrite levels are now under control, back to regular weekly water changes. Hype is a different fish, a lot more active, no longer just chilling on the bottom. Although hype does seem to like to gulp air here and there, he/she seems so much happier than he/she used to be its amazing. So, thanks for the help and suggestions PS. He/she will be getting moved into a 50 gallon tank soon, once it is cycled correctly. He/She will probably think they've died and gone to heaven!
  7. Hi yubonne. I recently had some strange cycling issues also. I'm fairly new to the game but have learnt a bit so I thought I'd throw in my two cents. I believe there were probably several factors that contributed to our ammonia issue, namely : - Poor filter maintenance, When I actually lifted the mechanical layer (mesh sponge), my ceramic noodles were filthy. Cleaning this fixed the problem once. - Poor gravel cleaning. Our gravel cleaner was not up to scratch and I therefore our gravel was holding a lot of built up waste - We also added a plant we tried to hold on to for to long. It was going brown, flaking off and rotting in the tank adding ammonia. I'm aware you have a bare bottom tank, so the gravel could not be the issue. I assume you have just one fish in the tank with no plants? When you moved, how long was your tank... not running normally for? Perhaps your tank is still in the cycling stage. Im aware you saw a slight nitrite spike on Sunday... Are you getting any nitrites currently?
  8. Hi again, So much learning, so many questions! Currently, everytime we do a water change we are adding the recommended dose of a water conditioner, "Aquasonic's Goldfish Water Conditioner" - To raise the water's hardness. Here is a link to the product : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aquasonics-Goldfish-Water-Conditioner-500g-/251717970462?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 Is this a necessity? Or is it a marketing scam we have fallen for when we started off? I'm asking this as only now have I been reading about quarantining new fish. During the quarantine process Salt is added. Is this not in some way similar to the water conditioner? As I am only learning now about the importance of quarantining new fish. Should I assume that my 4 month old Hype, probably has parasites/flukes? And should go through this Salt/Prazi treatment!? Thanks in advance, sorry for so many amateur questions
  9. Firstly, Thanks to all for the time taken in providing your responses! I have one last question. The recommendation for filtration is 10x the tank's volume. For example a 50 gallon tank, should be filtered by a total of 500 GPH filtration or greater. Manufacturer spec's are very rarely what they actually turn over in the "real world". Some canister filters may be rated at say... 525 GPH, but when connected underneath a tank may only actually turn over 50-75% of that rated specification. E.g. 315 GPH. My question is : Is this still sufficient filtration? (Is the recommended 10X turnover value, based on manufacturer specs or ACTUAL turnover?) Thanks in advance
  10. Hi again fellow users, We are in the process of cycling a new 50 gallon tank, that we will be moving our current goldie in to and once it has properly settled, adding a few other members. I've learnt a lot about goldfish and their requirements and my partner and I really like the look of planted tanks, so we are going to start on this learning curve also now. I am not interested in stressing about high tech plants, so have researched a bit about low tech, natural setup's. However, I still have a few questions I'd like to ask... - We will be using a gravel substrate, approx one to one and a half inches thick. The size of it varies from pea size to about... three times the size of a pea..? Will we need to continue uprooting plants to vacuum the gravel? Or, once we have a few plants sustained in there, do we no longer need to vacuum? We do not plan on adding any fertilizer's, whether it be root tabs or liquid forms for now, in an effort to see what works and keep costs down. Our new tank came with a rangehood that can hold two 4 foot fluorescent tubes. One is currently fitted which output is that blueish white, daylight spectrum. From what I have read this 6500K approx output is ideal for planted tanks? If so, I will purchase a second tube and install it. Also, we want to get a more natural look out of our tank, so are considering hitting up the local creek's/river's and trying to find some nice looking rocks and/or driftwood to give the tank a prettier natural look. Would the 1 part bleach 19 parts water be suitable to sterilise either of these before placing in the tank? Or, if we do find a nice piece of wood, will we require to soak it for a long period of time to eliminate any tannins contaminating our water? Any answer's or further advice/suggestions/tips that can make this adventure a little bit smoother would be great Thanks in advance
  11. Furthermore : Cannister filters seem on the expensive side, unless we could pick one up second hand. Internal filter's seem a bit less pricey. But will they be efficient enough for this sized tank? This is one item I was considering - https://www.aco-aquariums.com.au/product/index/893 Another item is this U4... http://mentoneaquarium.com.au/product/internal-power-filter-fluval-u-for-sale-in-melbourne-australia/ however it only has a capacity of 1000l/h which would only be 5x my tanks volume? And then there is this also : http://mentoneaquarium.com.au/product/canister-filter-1500lh-for-sale-in-melbourne-australia/ Any assistance would be great Thanks
  12. Hello We have been undertaking the goldfish learning curve for a few months now and will be upgrading our tank soon. We will be moving to an approximately 200L tank, with a few plants and goldfish. I will be buying one second hand which comes with a stand, lighting etc. However they used to use an undergravel filter. What filtration would you suggest for a tank of this size? And should it be via an undergravel filter, cannister, or combination of the two? Shakaho showed me a video of a DIY moving bed filter, would this be suitable for both mechanical and biological filtering of a tank this size? We want to ensure we are giving the goldfish the right environment but at the same time are not millionaires that can buy $500 filtration systems, so any DIY ideas or second hand recommendations would be awesome? Look forward to your response's Thanks Tim
  13. Please read our guidelines for keeping goldfish. I wonder where you read that an aquarium filter should turn over 2x the tank volume per hour. The only situation under which I have heard such a recommendation is for ponds, where that goes along with a separate external filter that has 1/10 the volume of the pond. With aquarium filters, a larger turnover goes along with a larger volume for filter media. I am not at all concerned about the size of your tank for now. However, in a few months, your 2 inch fish will be 4 inches long. It will also be twice as wide and twice as "tall." That means it will have 8 times its current volume/mass, and will be producing 8 times the waste it produces now. A larger volume of water dilutes waste. The other way you dilute waste is with water changes. When you read our guidelines, you will see we recommend a minimum of one 50% water change per week. You can compensate for a small tank by doing larger and/or more frequent water changes. I would recommend two 50% water changes each week until you get that big tank. Thanks for your help we shall try this whilst sourcing the next upgrade
  14. * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0-0.25 ppm max atm. * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) 0 ppm or very close to it. (isn't this strange..? considering the tanks been running for 3 months) * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) 0ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.5 Do not have KH, GH tester available. When we do a water change we are adding "Aquasonic's Goldfish Water Conditioner" to raise the hardness and salinity * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Test Kit, drops. * Water temperature? 22 degrees Celsius (71.6 farenheit) * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 8.7 gallons, has been running for 3 and a half months. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? JEBO AP-900 submersible pump, capable of pumping 200 litres an hour (approx. 50 gallons an hour), feeding into a “rangehood” overhead tray, which has the ceramic bio balls on the bottom, grey mesh in the middle and the finer cotton on top. * How often do you change the water and how much? Ideally we aim for approx. 30% weekly, however when we see higher ammonia level’s we have sometimes had to do this every second day, anywhere between 30-50%. When we do complete water changes, we add a small amount of bicarb soda, to bring the tap water PH to the same as our tank water to prevent stressing our fish. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 3 days ago, 50% was changed as our ammonia was reading between 1.0 – 2.0 ppm, nitrites were reading around 1.0 – 2.0 ppm and nitrates were reading around 20ppm. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 celestial eyed goldfish, about 2 inches max head to tail * What kind of water additives or conditioners? We use Fraction, which is supposedly made by the same people that make Prime just a newer form. * What do you feed your fish and how often? We feed a mixture of pellets that we soak first, and flakes also. Twice a week we feed a de-shelled pea also. We only feed once a day at the moment and any uneaten food after 2 minutes we scoop out. * Any new fish added to the tank? No. Hype is the only inhabitant. We did add the elodea plant recently though as mentioned in my first post * Any medications added to the tank? No, trying to avoid needing this. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. None. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Once I saw a small grain of salt like thing on Hype, but it then disappeared and have not noticed anything else recently. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? He likes to sleep at the bottom at times and sometimes he also appears to be gasping for air (rarely).. But we do have an airstone pumping in oxygen and the water parameters currently are as stated above, so I do not see why he would be doing this from time to time either? He still loves to eat. One additional question to those on the form and what Chelsea asked: Do you have a substrate? If so, what kind and how deep is it? We had approx. 1.5 to 2 inches of gravel substrate, but thought this may have been causing the problem of High ammonia so removed it and at the moment it is essentially a bare bottom tank with pebbles littered over it.
  15. You are alright mate, I appreciate the questions and answers in the hope we can get to the bottom of this! That's something I thought of also after the fact.... Although, It wasn't until post gravel removal when we added the elodea plant that the parameter changes seemed to increase significantly...
  16. 10x my tank's volume?! I had read elsewhere that 2x my tanks volume or higher should have been sufficient? Is this incorrect? Currently I am working on site until tomorrow, I will ask my partner if she is able to get some pictures of both the pump and the filter setup and send them through otherwise I'll take some snaps tomorrow. Your right though, the AP-900 is a water pump which feeds the water up into an inbuilt overhead filter setup. Unfortunately upgrading the tank right now is not easily manageable as the room its in would not easily fit a 4 foot tank or larger. Initially, the gravel was approximately 1.5 inches thick. When we were trying to troubleshoot our problem we thought perhaps the gravel was our problem, so we removed it all and are currently running with basically a bare bottom tank (there are a few pebbles scattered along the bottom of it). However, as we are still having this issue I was planning on adding back the gravel that we removed? Would you recommend any particular thickness?
  17. Thanks for the replies Initially we were introduced to the whole goldfish thing, with the trap of a fishbowl. After this obviously failed we have done a lot of research and been slowly improving our setup and knowledge. We setup the tank with gravel, conditioned water and filter. We then "fed" the tank with flake food daily, for approx 3 weeks until no more ammonia was seen. So when this occurred, despite seeing no nitrites and nitrates (at the end of the 3 weeks) we assumed that the tank had now cycled, gave it a good vacuum and added Hype. We have a JEBO AP-900 submerged filter, which pumps the water up into a "rangehood" type filter setup. Initially we only had the ceramic bio balls and grey sponge mesh, however we noticed this would get dirty rather quickly and an annoyance to clean, so we added a top layer of the finer cotton about a month ago. When we clean it now, we siphon out approx 30% of the water and hand rinse the top layer of cotton in the old tank water. However, sometimes due to high ammonia/nitrites we had seen, we did have to change 50% at times. Due to wanting to control the higher levels of ammonia and nitrites we were testing daily, and sometimes changing the water every second day when required. Our tap water has no ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. With a PH of 7.0. Our tank is 33 litres (10 gallons approx.) currently. Our filter is capable of pumping up to 200 litres (approx 50 gallons) an hour. I am aware this tank is too small in the long term to maintain our goldfish, however it should be sufficient for the short term as Hype is still only... about two inches long from head to tail. We have plans once we move house in the next few months to upgrade to a 50 gallon tank and transfer him then. I will reply to shakaho's post shortly. Thanks again
  18. Surely doing a 50% water change would not remove all the ammonia and nitrite though? (If you think it may, what should I do next time to control the ammonia levels when they are high then...?) I'm aware the nitrate test requires vigorous shaking of the bottles before use and before adding bottle 2, we have followed the directions correctly so this is not the issue.
  19. Hello We have had a tank with one goldfish running for over 4 months now. However something really strange seems to keep reoccuring. We were having ammonia problems, never seeing any nitrite or nitrate even after the tank had gone through its fishless cycle. We kept doing regular water changes and slowly rectified the problem, which initially was caused due to the filter being dirty... Recently we added a plant to the tank also, some of this plant was probably decaying slightly which added a small bio-load to our tank. All of a sudden the ammonia was rising higher, and nitrites/nitrates started to appear! Awesome, Tank is doing a mini cycle and we finally see nitrates, which we had not seen for 3 months (Weird enough)... Unfortunately the plant was in poor shape, one day, we tested the ammonia and saw it was sky high at around 2.0ppm with high nitrites also. So we removed the majority of the plant that was rotting and did a water change to dilute the ammonia and nitrites. The real strange thing is now after this, we tested a day later. Ammonia = 0. Nitrites = 0. Nitrates = .... 0. I'm aware the nitrifying bacteria live in the filter, so how could removing a plant and changing approx 50% of the water (like for like, PH levels identical etc. to prevent shock)?????????????? Still, a few days later this is still the case? What is going on? Another question I have is will it make any difference whether the water trickles past my 3 layers of filtration? Or if it has a chance to "swim" around my biological filter for longer? The bacteria obviously require oxygen but is this through the water or..? I hope some of the people on this forum can provide some insight and advice. (Yes, my filter is large enough, no my tank is not overstocked) Thanks
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