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210 Oranda

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Everything posted by 210 Oranda

  1. Hi again!!.. Im in a little situation.. perhaps you don't remember where Im at but I'll try to explain.. I have the calico & the orange oranda (survivors from Petsmart) in my new 125G.. They've both survived flukes, dropsy & who knows what else that killed the orther two.. They already finished their QT month of salt & prazi.. and the 12-14 days of antibiotics.. Today will be a week since I started the 125G tank so I was thinking of doing its first water change.. First.. How much water do I change ???.. Im mean, this thing is huge and the PH from tap (7.4) doesn't match the PH of the tank (8.4).. baking soda doesn't seem to help to rise the PH & we both know I cannot have 125G of water in buckets aging overnight.. So what do I do !?? Second.. How often do I need to change water.. ??? I'm having two little residents right now in this (uncycled) tank but Im gonna start adding more fish (one per week) from the QT tank which is about to finish its QT period.. Thank you!!.. Ah and by the way this is it..! I know Sharon said NOT to have any decoration or substrate for six months but I couldn't just leave it empty.. it was too ugly!! (however.. if you guys say, take it off.. I'll do it)
  2. I have a fish that is mostly blind. She does not interact with me in the same way as my other fish, but she does seem to sense when I am hanging around the tank and will come up in hopes for food.She's a pretty slow fish and I don't think gets enough food on her own, so we do a lot of hand feeding. I will also float her in a big bowl of water and give her extra pellets. I would recommend that you get this fish used to being handled (and starting with hand-feeding bloodworms might be a good way) before trying to wrangle it into a bowl. Soon enough you'd be able to just guide it into the bowl, but starting small is a good idea. Of course, there is a chance that your fish will find food just fine by itself, and none of this will be necessary! Good luck! I'm sure it will be fine. Thanks..!! I don't think I will have an issue with food with this guy.. he is the one that eats the most.. he literally chases & pushes away the other two roommates when I feed them
  3. Do average "blind" fish get to grow to their full potential or they're limited because of the disease ??
  4. He has this in both eyes, white(ish) nearly round circle inside of his "black" eye.. If blind.. how can he sees me through the glass or when above the QT tank??.. Sometimes he comes to the spot I am but others he just runs away when Im near.. If cataracts.. Is there any way to improve his life??
  5. Wondering if you guys can give me some feedback about the color of one of my new residents.. I got him a week ago but since I saw him at the store I noticed a difference in his eyes which I've never seen before in a goldfish.. without the flash in his face they look soft blue (almost white) so I wonder if he has some kind of fungal disease, blind or just unique.. I asked this same question on D&D forum but since the topic is not related to this fish I decided to ask here.. What do you guys think ???
  6. I've been wanting to ask something about one of my new residents.. (which is in QT right now) Since I got this lionhead (or ranchu) I noticed that his eyes were something that I never seen before in a goldfish.. They're soft blue (almost white)... so I don't know if he has some kind of fungal infection or perhaps he's blind or maybe just unique.. What do you all think?? Also.. I noticed some white in his head similar to the "white pimples" (wen growth) the other ones get but his is more pronounced.. He's with other two "new residents" in a QT tank (.1% salt & 2nd round of prazi) so please let me know if I need to isolate him for treatment
  7. Hello..! I bought this a little while ago to give as a treat.. I believe spirulina is good for goldfish and I read in kokos that some people feed them brine shrimp However, the store mgr tells me that is like giving candy to a diabetic.. I guess because this is for carnivorous fish.. What do you all think ???.. Should or shouldn't.. ???
  8. Great news..!!.. The oranda with dropsy (is & looks) way better..! The pinecone went away last Saturday.. he's eating well Today is the 5th day on meds.. I just added the 3rd dose of Kana, Metro & Epsom salt.. So.. Do I do it for 12-14 days or should I stop (as package directions) when symptoms go away ??? Also.. Is the Epsom salt added every other day as meds or just replaced when water changes ???
  9. I don't have Epsom.. I use Mortons Canning.. but I'll get it today I read somewhere in Kokos that when seeing a pinecone fish (dropsy) the fish won't live for long.. Is this correct ?? Not necessarily. I've had many fish recover from dropsy and live for years. I also need to ask if dropsy is something that affect the entire tank (glass walls, filter, etc) or just the fish individually???.. Dropsy is a sign of other problems, often internal bacterial infection. The metro and kana will help with that. Since there are no other fish in the tank (or is there? ) you could treat in the main tank if you'd like. I need to know if I need to kill my cycle again by bleaching everyhting or a 100%wc will be sufficient ??? That's up to you. I think if you treat in the main tank, the antibiotics will take care of any nasties in the water/filters. However, if you're more comfortable bleaching, go for it. I remind you that this fish was in the 20G (in the middle of cycling) but now is in a 5G bucket Thanks!.. there's not other fish there.. & I rather not to bleach if is not neccesary.. so Im gonna do a 100%WC and return the fish from the 5G bucket to the 20G tank Last question(s).. Is Kana & Metro going to kill all good bacteria from the "cycling filter" as well ???.. I assume I cannot longer use the biomedia (Eheim SubstratPro) of the 20G tank (which is in the process of cycling) in the new 125G tank to help with the cycle, right???
  10. I don't have Epsom.. I use Mortons Canning.. but I'll get it today I read somewhere in Kokos that when seeing a pinecone fish (dropsy) the fish won't live for long.. Is this correct ?? I also need to ask if dropsy is something that affect the entire tank (glass walls, filter, etc) or just the fish individually???.. I need to know if I need to kill my cycle again by bleaching everyhting or a 100%wc will be sufficient ??? I remind you that this fish was in the 20G (in the middle of cycling) but now is in a 5G bucket
  11. As expected.. .. he has something more than just flukes.. Dropsy! I woke up this morning to a swollen-pinecone looking fish.. I immediately move him to a 5G "hospital" bucket and added some Metro & Kana (no salt or prazi) If there's anything I should know or do to (try to) save him.. please let me know asap
  12. Im sorry for your loss.. Thank you for getting back to me.. Today is the 4th day of the second dose I have not seeing him laying on the side (at least when I'm looking) he doesn't move much.. he stays in the same spot all day but faces away as soon as I approach the tank I've tried to feed him peas, pellets & bloodworms but he doesn't even look at them The last time he tried to eat something was on Sunday but spitted out This is a Petsmart rescue.. hopefully we don't through the same as we did with the last two Question.. Do they regrow scales?? if so, do they come back same color ??
  13. Do you think it could be harmful to start a Metro dosage ?.. I mean.. I just did 25% WC and he perked up a little but he still hasn't eat in 4-5 days he's not moving much but at least he isn't facing the corner or laying on his side I believe you know some tricks in how to feed them when sick.. if so, I'll appreciate some pointers Thank you!!
  14. The calico is looking great!! Im having issues now with the orange oranda.. He's acting lethargic, sometimes heavy breathing & hasn't eat anything in a couple of days.. (spitting out) I figure this behaviour is related to flukes but when I saw him today laying on his side I got worried.. I remind you that he's by himself in a 20G (uncycled) on second round of prazi & .3% salt Should I start any meds?
  15. I got them (3) yesterday.. The guy who sold them to me said that he had all stock in QT for a month but I will follow your instructions as precaution. So you want salt at .3% & prazi (double dose) or just prazi (single dose/no salt) ??? Also.. I forgot to mention that I have a water softener at home so the water they have comes from that filter.. Is this ideal for them or should I get it before the softener ??? Last question.. Im looking at several tanks right now.. some of them are 18" high some are 25".. I believe they do better in shallow tanks but if the "best conditions" tank I find is 48" x 25" instead of 72" x 18".. Will this 25" tall tank be "ideal" for their full growth potential or should I wait to get an 18" .. ???? (does it make sense what Im saying?)
  16. I wanted to thank you for the tip on the "Texas Koi & Fancy Goldfish association".. I think I found a local reputable GF seller, which by the way has a very different price (way more expensive) than the other local ones.. (not luck with a breeder yet) Im mentioning all this because Im planning something & I need the experts advice before I do anything.. My first question(s).. How long can you leave new fish in a QT tank ??.. 1,2,3 months?? As long as you want as long as the water is clean/no ammonia or nitrite. Can you have two or more small fish from the same source in the same QT tank (10G) at same time or should all be in separate containers??? If they are from the same source, they can go in the same tank but I would have a spare tank or tub to isolate one if needed. They still may all react differently to QT. Im getting a used 100 or 120 gallon tank within the next 5 days but Im asking this because I reserved 3 little fish from this "reputable source" and I either have to pick them up tomorrow or they will be put back to their retail ponds.. My plan is to have the main 100G tank "fishless cycling" while the 3 fish are in the QT little tank so when the cycle is done I can move them one by one with a 7-10 day period. Why don't you put the 2 you already have in the 100 gallon (once they are done with QT) along with the filter that is currently already cycling? With 100 gallons and only 2 fish, it will take a while for ammonia and/or nitrite to build up. Then once the other fish are done with QT and ready for the main tank, add them one by one as you'd planned. I remind you that I have one surviving oranda calico that is barely getting off meds right now (metro, kana & prazi) so this guy will be staying in his separate QT 10G tank until the main 100G is cycled. I also have another oranda by himself in the 20G tank that is "the main" tank right now.. he is being QT w/ salt + prazi as precaution (this a new fish that was given to me for the other 2 loses) Im planning to do as you said.. No substrate, decorations or plants for several months.. I have just purchased a (supposedly new) sump filter (Eshoops WD-75CS) & a Fluval 306.. but since the sump looks super dirty I wonder if I should boil the bioballs or just bleach them ??? Boil for at least 5 minutes. Am I going to have enough filtration with this two guys for a 100-120G tank ??? We recommend 10X filtration with HOB filters and 5-7X filtration with canister filters. the pump they gave me is the Rio1700 which pumps 350-400gph at 3' to 4' distance Thank you again so much for all the tips & advice!! You're the boss..! Thanks!
  17. The calico is looking great!! thank you!!.. he wouldn't be here without you guys help..!! Now.. If you have time (only if) can you please read my above post sent to Shannon (shakaho) I need to make a decision tomorrow and I would like your advise..
  18. I wanted to thank you for the tip on the "Texas Koi & Fancy Goldfish association".. I think I found a local reputable GF seller, which by the way has a very different price (way more expensive) than the other local ones.. (not luck with a breeder yet) Im mentioning all this because Im planning something & I need the experts advice before I do anything.. My first question(s).. How long can you leave new fish in a QT tank ??.. 1,2,3 months?? Can you have two or more small fish from the same source in the same QT tank (10G) at same time or should all be in separate containers??? Im getting a used 100 or 120 gallon tank within the next 5 days but Im asking this because I reserved 3 little fish from this "reputable source" and I either have to pick them up tomorrow or they will be put back to their retail ponds.. My plan is to have the main 100G tank "fishless cycling" while the 3 fish are in the QT little tank so when the cycle is done I can move them one by one with a 7-10 day period. I remind you that I have one surviving oranda calico that is barely getting off meds right now (metro, kana & prazi) so this guy will be staying in his separate QT 10G tank until the main 100G is cycled. I also have another oranda by himself in the 20G tank that is "the main" tank right now.. he is being QT w/ salt + prazi as precaution (this a new fish that was given to me for the other 2 loses) Im planning to do as you said.. No substrate, decorations or plants for several months.. I have just purchased a (supposedly new) sump filter (Eshoops WD-75CS) & a Fluval 306.. but since the sump looks super dirty I wonder if I should boil the bioballs or just bleach them ??? Am I going to have enough filtration with this two guys for a 100-120G tank ??? the pump they gave me is the Rio1700 which pumps 350-400gph at 3' to 4' distance Thank you again so much for all the tips & advice!!
  19. In regards the main tank.. I have the new oranda in it since Wed, Feb 11 The tank is (obviously) uncycled & has the filter working in it.. He has .3% salt & prazi, which by the way Im planning to do 3 rounds doing 4 days w/prazi & 3 days without.. Is this ok?? Also.. in case the new oranda ends its quarantine w/o issues.. Can I add the calico to the main tank afterwords or do I need to do something to the tank prior to adding???
  20. I guess I can illustrate his behavior a little better with a video.. He eats very good by the way..
  21. Calico is feeling (& looking) much better!!.. Thank you all !! I think I ended up getting a handicap fish when I got him.. He swims different.. His pectoral fins are not "tear drop" like the other oranda.. I just did a WC and added Metro.. by the way.. I poured the powder straight to his head & obviously he didn't like the taste, so I just wanted to make sure the meds direct to their bodies isn't harmful for them ??? I assume this will be his last dose, right? (He has been treated w/ Metro for 15 days now) He had Kana in the tank for 12 days & Prazi for 4 rounds As much as I want to move him to the main tank today.. I think I'm gonna keep him in the 10G QT for another 2-3 weeks until the main tank cycle & the new fish gets out of salt + prazi.. correct ???
  22. it makes sense.. Thank you.. I just don't have a place, containers or time to store 30G of water.. (I work 10hr daily minimum) I remind you that I have the calico (on meds) in the small 10G QT and the new "orange" in the 20G (w/ prazi + salt) I'll do my best to do at least twice a week 100%WC in the small 10G in addition to the 50% Im doing every other day now.. If you guys think that doing 25% WC daily is helpful with the new oranda 20G tank (prazi+salt) and probably 100% WC once a week.. I'll do my best If this tank is not relevant to frequent WC's because it has NOT meds in it, please save me the back pain.. either way, I'll do what you guys suggest!! Thanks again!!
  23. Thanks!!.. I think someone is about to tell me how irresponsible GF keeper I am.. They follow us home. Truly. Just do the best you can in caring for both animals and keep up on water changes. 95% changes several times per week will thwart so many fish health issues, even in too small of an aquarium. The wen on the newbie looks just fine to me, and I'm still cheering for your poor Oranda. He's a trooper! Thanks!!.. Now.. Do I really need to change 90-100% of the water every day (or every other) even though the QT tank shows 0% ammonia & nitrites..??? Right now Im changing 50% in the QT every other day.. (Not daily neither 100%).. I was in the understanding that I should do a "big WC" only if I see ammonia or nitrites > 1.0ppm.. so..
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