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210 Oranda

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  1. I've only seen him/her pooping once.. stringy white with some food color The belly feels somewhat soft.. or at least softer than one of the other fish from main tank (I've never touch their bellies before so I don't know what their belly should feel like) Jared.. I have not been double dosing the prazi.. I reduced the salt to .2% out of ignorance.. I thought 114 grams in a 10G were bothering them a little too much, but I can add the other 38g if you say so Okay, so the yawning and spitting makes me think Flukes. The problem is that Prazipro is less effective with salt at 0.3% unless it is double dosed. What I suggest is that you drop the salt to 0.1% and single dose the Prazi. If things don't improve, we may need the Metro and Kana for secondary bacterial infections. Man!.. I completely forgot about the 0.1% / single prazi or 0.3% double prazi.. (silly me) Being in the middle of the second round at a wrong dosage, should I start from scratch or continue at 0.1% + single prazi ??? Im looking at both right now and they're moving.. yawning & breathing rapidly, but moving..! The 1" ranchu does not have the belly issue than the ryukin does and I don't think I can manage to have both in QT in different containers so if we can save the antibiotics unless you indicate necessary (life threatening) I will prefer that By the way.. how does the belly should feel like?..
  2. I've only seen him/her pooping once.. stringy white with some food color The belly feels somewhat soft.. or at least softer than one of the other fish from main tank (I've never touch their bellies before so I don't know what their belly should feel like) Jared.. I have not been double dosing the prazi.. I reduced the salt to .2% out of ignorance.. I thought 114 grams in a 10G were bothering them a little too much, but I can add the other 38g if you say so
  3. Nope.. sometimes he swims in a "45 degree angle".. really weird
  4. Hello everyone! Im trying to find out if this ryukin looks-swims abnormal to any of you.. I lost today one of the three guys I had in QT and I wouldn't want to lose any of my remaining two (this calico ryukin & a small ranchu) because of a late treatment. I just did a 100% WC earlier when I saw the dead fish and I noticed his (in my opinion) swollen belly.. He has been swimming "weird" since I got him on April 16 but I can't figure out why.. They're in the middle of the second round of prazi & .3% salt and both have been experiencing "spitting out, flashing/darting & heavy yawning-breathing ".. however, lately they're just motionless stock to the bottom.. Please let me know if any additional treatment is required for the (perhaps) swollen belly of the calico Thanks!!
  5. My bad.. Yes!.. Im planning on going Hopefully I get some new residents
  6. Great looking fish..!! Where from ?.. If you don't mind me to ask
  7. That's actually what I was thinking.. (meaning patience) I only have 5ppm nitrates so "How can I expect algae if I don't have sufficient amount of nitrates" ..Duh! The amount of algae I have in the tank is super little, just a few inches in top of the silicone (joints) The mesh was sanded pretty hard so it is good (I guess) I only have the option of "ON" - "OFF" & "NIGHT" (blue LED's).. Not dimmer but I guess I can turn off the light earlier.. right now it's "ON" from 9am to midnight (15hrs/ day) I even thought about scrubbing the tank algae and place it on the mesh.. perhaps it's cheating but it might do the trick!
  8. Thanks Mikey.. I might try that.. However, algae grows faster at a lower kelvin (warmer color) light Red LED being approx 1500K-2000K is better to grow algae (for what I read) than a regular fluorescent lamp (3000k-5000k). He used a fluorescent light in the video to keep costs as low as possible but the company that build the scrubbers professionally (Santa Monica Filtration) uses red LED http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOG1-3-UAS-Upflow-Algae-Scrubber-with-Green-Grabber-Textures-/291093140231?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c680d307
  9. Thanks!!.. I guess not many ppl have algae scrubbers.. (you're the only one out of 60 that has been able to give me some feedback) How long did it take (from day 1) for the algae to grow inside the net ?? Don't you think that "all the green" you have has helped to create an ideal environment for the algae??.. I'm in the understanding that Im doing the same thing but with different process I have a 20G air pump dedicated only to pump air inside the scrubber to simulate the same water flow yours receive and I have RED led's which I thought were better (than regular fluorescent) for the algae growth I've seen this ones on youtube and everyone's seems to be working just fine ..So I don't know what am I doing wrong!??
  10. Hello everyone.. I decided to make an (DIY) scrubber similar to this: and have it in the return part of the sump However, the algae is starting to grow inside of the tank not in the scrubber & I don't know what to do to make it grow where is supposed to.. I thought about moving the scrubber inside of the tank for a couple of weeks to allow the existing algae migrate to the scrubber then move it back to the sump but I don't really know if this will happen Any suggestions ???
  11. Behavior & appetite is normal.. Actually these guys eat like there's not tomorrow ! If this is a reaction to the meds.. will the colors go back to normal (eventually) ??
  12. my bad, It is the gill covers.. The spots are darker today so I was able to get a picture.. What you see in this one is somehow similar to the other red/white fish I just added another dose of metro/kana so if you think 10 days will be sufficient (to avoid future resistance) I will stop there..
  13. Hi.. Question(s).. I think I started medicating this guys (w/ metro + kana) on the 22nd out of fear (of previous experiences) and I understand that Kana should stay for 12 days & metro for 14.. However.. I have dosed Kana & Metro 4 times now.. the 22nd in a "hospital 5G bucket" , the 23rd, 25th & 27th in their 20G QT tank.. The last thing I want is to create "meds resistance" on them but we also know that kana says in their package to do a "maximum of 3 doses".. & metro says "until symptoms disappear" So... If the fish is acting normal (& because most likely I made an accelerated decision), wouldn't be smart to stop medicating for another week ?? or by doing this I can risk creating "resistance" ?? I noticed their gills turning dark and also a dark spot on the tricolor's nose (which I cant pick up with the camera) so I don't know if this could be medicine related or perhaps ammonia burn (which I doubt because it's always <.25) Let me know what you think.. Thx
  14. Hi.. & thank you.. I don't use baking soda The water for WC's is being aged overnight with an airstone.. I always have 25G of aged water for my WC's.. If for some reason I forget to age water I will only do 25% WC, which takes my PH to 8.0-8.2 (however, I haven't done that in a while)
  15. I'm trying to figure out who's pooping (if not both) these huge poops.. I just saw one (big one) in the 5G bucket.. If they're pooping.. Does it mean that there's NOT infection ?? Can it be bad for them using antibiotics for 14 days if they aren't sick ??
  16. Sorry it took forever to answer.. We left early this morning and I just came home.. Truth to be told is that I freaked out this morning when I saw the tricolor being pushed around by the current & the red/white yawning heavly so I moved them immediately to a 5G bucket & added some kana & metro.. I perhaps shouldn't have done that, sorry.. * Ammonia Level(Tank) <.25 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0.0 * Nitrate level(Tank) between 5.0 & 10.0 * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0.0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0.0 * Nitrate level(Tap) < 5.0 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.4 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * Water temperature? 72F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G quarantine uncycled * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350 * How often do you change the water and how much? Every other day 50-100% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Yesterday, 100% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 ryukin, 2" (body) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime (double dose) * What do you feed your fish and how often? Hikari red bag (1mm), Omega One, Hikari Lionhead, Repashy Soilent Green, Bloodworms, Braine Shrimp, 2-3 times a day * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Salt @ .2@ & prazi (second round) on 20G tank - Metro & Kana in 5G bucket * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Salt & prazi started on Saturday 14, Metro & Kana today Saturday 22 * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White spots on red/white tail, Swollen belly on male tricolor * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Extreme "yawning" on red/white, Bottom Sitting both, Spitting out both, Collapsed fins tricolor,
  17. Hello everyone.. I'm experiencing something similar to what happened to me a couple of months ago when I lost my first two orandas So I hope to do a prompt treatment before is too late.. I have this two guys in QT (w/ frequent WC) since Friday 13.. They are at .2% salt & prazi (2nd round) They came from a (what I believe) reliable source.. Same place I got other 3 fish which just finished their QT period w/o any issues.. They were super energetic the first week of QT but everything changed a few days ago when the tricolor (red-white-black) started to look a little fatter.. My ignorance told me that perhaps he was under-fed before me or just growing Yesterday they were both bottom sitting (not moving most of the day) & I noticed that tri-color spitted out the repashy gel food (but ate some 1mm pellets) which I found extrange because of repashy soft consistence.. Today I give them peas & bloodworms which they both spitted out at first but ate after a while.. I know (perhaps) they have flukes but the string-like white poop you can see on the red-white ryukin & the sudden "fatter belly", bottom sitting & collapsed fins in the tri-color really concerned me about an internal disease.. One other thing that concern me about the red-white is the white spots on the tail (fungal perhaps) So what should I do..?? Should I start a metro-kana in both.. ?? just the tri-color (fatter one).. ?? Or perhaps I just over fed them and they just need to fast for a couple of days...???? Thank you so much!
  18. I just brought this juvenile from QT to the main 125G a few days ago.. (I think he just got his breeding stars) But he's chasing one other fish (assume girl) all over the place The "chased oranda" has several missing scales, scratches & split tail.. Is this normal behaviour or should I do something about it ???
  19. Koko.. I wanted to ask how do I contact you directly..??.. "pm" perhaps.. The source where I got my latest fish has an "Annual Spring Koi & Goldfish sale & Festival" coming in April & I thought of helping him to get the word out He also holds (in October) the largest annual goldfish competition in TX where Tommy from "Goldfishnet" has won some of his awards Anyway.. I guess I can explain more directly.. Thanks!
  20. Thank you all for your feedback.. It has been a lot of work putting this project together so you comments mean a lot.. Thanks!!
  21. Hello.. After some try and error & "some deals" I decided to upgrade my 20G to a 125G.. I know is a huge gap.. I wasn't really planning to do this and I don't even know if I'm gonna be able to keep up with it but Im only hoping for the best.. I'm having right now two little residents (survivors of Petsmart) who already passed the QT succesfully and another 5 goldies (from a better source) in QT tanks.. I wanted to show mainly the sump set up.. I'm a newbie and I only arranged the media to my little knowledge but if one of you experts tells me otherwise I'll be happy to rearrange.. I have first two layers of pink filter pad at the drip tray for mechanical Then, blue bioballs right under with an extra line of oxigen for gas exchange followed by some black small bioballs with sponge inside which are half way submerged Then some ceramic rings & substrat pro spheres.. Last, I added some foam block before returning to the tank for extra mechanical I also decided to make a DIY algae scrubber to keep the nitrates (hopefully) under control & eventually being able to overstock.. On the overflow box I decided to "wrap" the screen insert with some blue pad but if you guys think I'm slowing down the flow by doing that I'll remove it... I'm waiting on a deal I'm cooking for an FX5 or FX6 so right now I only have that small sump (Eshopps wd-75cs) & a Fluval 306 which I think it is (kinda) sufficient for two small residents.. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.. Thanks!!
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