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troy.telford

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Everything posted by troy.telford

  1. I'd be ok with that; I know this guy well enough to know the difference between his "normal bloodshot" and "sick bloodshot". I just really like this goofy guy.
  2. While it would be really awesome if his fins clear up entirely, as the beginning of this discussion stated: his fins have had some bright red blood vessels for quite some time. Even if he is perfectly healthy, I wouldn't be surprised if it'll take time for the last blood vessels to shrink (if at all) I'm thrilled he's recovering, and really hope to see his fins healed.
  3. I have many pictures in the D&D thread where his treatment is: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/120317-Red-Blood-Vessels%2C-Ragged-fins As far as the weight goes: I weighed out the amount of food 1% of 120 grams is (1.2 g). Then I compared it to what I've been feeding my fish. Not the result I expected. At all. I've been feeding my three fish about 1.5 g of food a day, which works about 1/3 of the 1% guideline. And they're still growing; until I contaminated the tank with an infected plant, all were pretty healthy. So I guess it really is hard to underfeed goldfish... That said: I'd like to feed closer to the guideline. I really think it would be a bad idea to suddenly double (I'll not even think of tripling) their daily diet. So, my questions: How slowly would I need to increase their meal size? I don't want constipated fish... Would having more frequent, smaller meals be a good way to go?
  4. How 'bout following the hot water with some hot garlic butter? Escargot... Actually, I love the idea of hot water. Any danger of the aquarium glass cracking?
  5. Since I'm treating my largest goldfish for an infection, and have to do 100% water changes, I figured today's water change would be a great time to do his first "weigh in", and see if I am feeding anything close to the "1% of body mass per day in food" guideline. My fish is a 6"-ish (sans long flowy tail fins), and I used which seemed to make sense. I measured my fish as weighing about 120 grams. Does that seem in the right ball park for a 6-ish inch Oranda?
  6. I've literally re-written this post for a couple of hours, each time having an 'Aha!' moment and starting over. The more I think about it, the more I realize RanchuDressing is right... (love the name BTW, even if I don't get its meaning) There's a whole lot less risk in picking up my fish & moving them to a smaller/cycled tank for a few days than there is in using a selective poison (i.e. any of the treatments I mentioned earlier). I'm no biologist, but I know enough about gardening to think of any potential snail killer like it's an insecticide: The two dominant insecticides (Neonicotinoids and pyrethrins) are highly poisonous to insects (and fish), but are relatively nontoxic to mammals and avians. The thing is "relatively nontoxic" is still slightly toxic. So... how does this sound for a plan: I've never broken down a tank before, so let me know if/where I'm not thinking things through Setup my 20 gallon QT tank, do a "fishless cycle" to establish the bacterial filter in it. Pick a weekend for the teardown & buildup. (After the QT tank's nitrogen cycle is established) Take my fish out of my main tank, perform some sort of dip to ensure there's no chance of snails moving over Transfer the fish to the cycled QT tank. It's way to small for them, but they hopefully won't be there for long. Pull out any aquatic plants, and disinfect them the way I should have to begin with (chlorine and/or potassium permanganate bath). Put in dechlorinated water in the sun. Drain my main tank. Sterilize the main tank: Use oxidizers like chlorine bleach, potassium permanganate, and hydrogen peroxide in successive treatments. At least one water rinse between chemicals Really rinse out the tank. Sterilize my aquarium canopy (glass). Sterilize any filter equipment: The canister, hoses, filter media Sterilize any decorations, let them dry out for a few weeks in the desert heat. Move my tank's stand a bit (I really should pull it out another 4-6 inches from the wall) Sterilize all of my water changing equipment, similar to the tank. Refill my main tank Put in new substrate (which I want to do anyway; I want to ditch the gravel) re-plant the tank (with disinfected plants) let it run at least overnight (or x days...) Transfer my fish from the QT tank to the main tank, and transfer the HOB filter from the QT tank to preserve and/or speed the establishment of the biological filter in my main tank. Watch both water parameters Nervously watch for a snail outbreak...
  7. I'm pretty sure my goldfish eliminate any snails they can physically reach, if they are large enough to see. I know the eggs can be found outside the filter, as I managed to 'infect' my brother's tank with a decoration. I don't see how the snails would be limited to just the filter, and cleaning it has no lasting effect (I tried that for a few months and finally gave up); the snails always return. I suspect I have snails pretty much everywhere in my tank, but are too small for me to see. I only start seeing them when they approach a millimeter in size. Do they attack millimeter and smaller-sized snails (which can still breed)? Can I just throw one in my HOB and expect it to exterminate all of the snails and eggs? What happens when you remove the assassin snail? It will not be a permanent resident.
  8. This is a story of two tanks: In my tank, they're not really much of a problem: When I change the filter cartridges in my HOB filter every two , I've seen between 7 & 8 very small snails (1-2 mm). I've never seen any snails in my actual tank, only in the filter. Because of this, I'm not convinced there would be much to worry about with a snail die-off. By brother's tank, on the other hand, is a different story: Lots of snails He's changing the water 50% daily (He got a new tank, and decided to do a live cycle with small tropical fish). He removes snails daily In both cases, I'm not very concerned with rotting snails, because the snails are physically removed when found, and we're already watching the water quality. We're both primarily concerned with eggs & ending reproduction.
  9. I recently bought my first canister; I went with an Eheim 2075, and am happy with it, but it's about twice your price range. Fluvial is another highly regarded brand (and I have no experience with it). I've also heard good things about the Rena/API "Filstar XP" filters, and Marineland. Many like the value of the SunSun filters. Here's the thread on the same subject which I started: From my own research (and only a few week's more knowledge about the subject than you), here's what I've found: My Eheim is able to cycle 328 Gallons per Hour, though a 55 gallon tank. That works out to about 6x 'turnover' per hour. I was told between 5 & 7x turnover per hour is 'enough' for goldfish I've seen some guidelines of 10x turnover for goldfish. The difference appears to be an argument of "quality vs quantity" of filtration. Noise and Power Consumption are often the biggest differentiators. In general, they're all pretty quiet, and use less power than an incandescent light bulb. My Eheim is practically inaudible, and is much quieter than my hang-on-back filter. Most canisters allow you to select whatever filter media you want, which often negates many differences between filter brands Many come with their own filter media Just about everybody who makes filter media claims theirs is the best (of course). Be aware that canister filters can leak, just like your house can burn down. It's rare, but it happens. If they do leak, it can empty your entire tank onto your floor. This is catastrophic from both a homeowner's perspective as well as for your tank. Cheap water alarms can be obtained from a hardware store, which provides a fair amount of protection, assuming someone is home most of the time. You probably want to add the canister filter to your tank for at least a couple of months, to let the biofilter colonize. Only after the time has passed do you want to consider removing the old filter.
  10. About a year back, I made a mistake with my tank: I decided to add some live plants, but didn't disinfect them first. The plants I didn't disinfect introduced a population of snails to my tank. From what I've read, they're either Pond Snails or Bladder snails; I can't really tell which. I repeated the mistake of not disinfecting them again in January, and have been (and will be) dealing with the consequences for a while... Until my fish's infections & possible parasite infections are taken care of (and probably an additional month's time for everybody involved to 'rest'), I have no intention of acting on my snail 'problem'. I want to discuss & think about until then... and I hope this will be a thoughtful discussion. Let's get one thing out of the way: I want the snails gone. Not mitigated, or have their population kept in check by a predator - I want them gone, exterminated, eradicated, full stop. I realize that the snails aren't harmful, and that there are positive aspects to their presence. I accept they are natural, and have benefits to the aquarium. That said, if I wanted snails, I'd get snails that can't self-reproduce, so I could control the population. My brother has a tropical tank with the same problem (mea culpa, I think), and he wants the snails gone as well... (his problem is far, far worse than mine, but he's new to the hobby and was massively overfeeding. 6-year old kids probably contributed to that... ) Mechanical removal is a start, and my fish, at least, help with that, but the curséd things self-fertilize, so one egg is all it takes to re-populate the tank. I really don't want do break down the tanks, sterilize them (and the filters), and then re-cycle the tanks. (Especially as I only have my small quarantine tank, so I'd have to cycle with my fish). I've read a lot of people get assassin snails to cull the herd, and others use loaches to eat the snails. From what I've read, that seems to be the limit of their effectiveness - the predators keep the pond snails in check, but don't actually exterminate them. (Is that accurate?) in both cases, it adds to the bio-load of the tank. I've read that there are medications (some ich treatments, fenbendazole, copper-bearing medications) which will exterminate snails. Obviously, this comes with a level of risk to the tank's population (and is certainly more dangerous than the snails themselves). Let's assume that's something I (or my brother) is willing to live with. So what options for exterminating the snails are the least harmful to fish?
  11. Thanks for the update. I've never used Prazi before, and don't want to hurt the guy; I've done enough damage already!
  12. Behavior is normal, digestive tract is working on both ends. He's enjoying the few pebbles of gravel (which have been in hospital tank since Day 1.)
  13. 100% water change, dosed with prime, metro, kana, and Prazi. One problem: I measured out a dose of Prazi for a 55 gallon tank to the hospital tank. The problem: the hospital tank is 20 gal. Given you mentioned the first round was "often" a double dose, is the hospital tank OK, or do I need to do another 100% water change with new doses (and the single dose of Prazi)
  14. Quick question before I dose the main tank with Prazi: do I need to remove the (carbon-bearing) filter cartridge from my Aqueon 55/75 hob filter first?
  15. I've had the Oranda for 4 1/2 years. I've had my other two fish for about a year. I think I'll go with 7-day rounds, as it's easy to keep track of (on Monday, do this, Tuesday, do that, etc.) You also mentioned "should you need to go that far" with Prazi. How would I know if I've gone through enough rounds? Another question: Does Prazi affect the tank's biofilter? (Looks like the water changes will be often enough it may not be a problem, but I figured I'd better ask). I also had an "aha" moment this afternoon. The request check list (that I used) asks: Any new fish added to the tank? Well, the answer to that is no, I have added no new fish. I did, however, add three new plants in early/mid January. More importantly: I didn't know (or even consider) that they could carry an infection with them; I didn't know that I should treat the plants with dilute Chlorine bleach, or with Potassium Permanganate. Well, lesson learned... It's not a sure thing for why my fish got sick, but it's an obvious mistake. (Well, it is now)
  16. I was going to ask about the main tank; makes sense.
  17. No PraziPro yet. I have it, but you said to hold off. (None of my fish have ever been treated with PraziPro)
  18. Ammonia 0.25, 0 Nitrite. Dosed tank with Prime.
  19. This post will increase my odds of winning from zero to poor. Here's one for the long shot!
  20. 100% water change, prime, and doses of MetroPlex and Kanaplex. Looks like the tide has turned.
  21. The red spots at the extreme ends of his fins are much less red, as are the anal fins. I don't have a pic of the anal fins from the past 48 hours, but they are visible in the pic in post #6 (Monday), where they were quite red. They are looking a bit better this morning too.
  22. Images: I do wish I could get a better pic of his right side, but he was being unhelpful.
  23. Status: Fish is still acting normal * normal activity level * still eating Fins are looking more or less the same; I'll get a better picture with morning and better light. Or at least when I don't have a cat lying on me. Ammonia is less than 0.25ppm; Nitrite is zero. I've dosed the tank with Prime for the ammonia. I plan on doing a water change tomorrow.
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