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Everything posted by troy.telford

  1. For reference: 20ppm is the general max nitrate level for goldfish. Higher levels negatively impact their health, especially their immune system. I have a 55 gallon with three medium sized goldfish; the largest is 120 grams. I do ~85% water change every five days. My nitrates are around 20ppm when I change the water. Your tank is 65% bigger than mine, which means 5 fish is the equivalent bio load. You've said you intend to put in 9 fish which would make your bio load nearly double what my tank has. More bio filtration will keep the ammonia and nitrites in check, but nitrates will only accumulate- and will do so rapidly. The only reliable way to get rid of them is with water changes. You'll do fine at first, when the fish are small. As they grow, their bio load will grow, and I wouldn't be surprised if you have to do 80% water changes every 3 days (or less) to keep the nitrates below 20ppm - assuming your tap water has no nitrates in it like mine. That many water changes gets old really fast.
  2. Oh! I didn't realize that was your guess! Yes, you're right! You win one Internet!!!
  3. The following may be helpful: One thing he mentions: a K1 (plastic media) fluidized bio filter will take at least six months for a 'mature' colony to develop. Keep in mind: the guy in the video owns the 'biohome' brand, so he puts on a hard sell for his products. Biohome isn't suited to a DIY bottle bio filter, and he tells you not to use it. One thing I think he mentions: a mature fluidized bio filter is capable of rapidly processing a massive spike of ammonia and nitrites. The problem is that while doing so, it'll deplete the oxygen in tank, suffocating your fish.
  4. As it stands, your tank sounds like the aquarium will rapidly produce a ton of nitrates, really cloudy water, and a layer of decomposing excrement on the bottom.Those are not qualities I try to achieve. I'm curious as to how you intend to mitigate those problems, and why 'minimum' mechanical filtration appears to be one of your goals. I'm not saying you're doing it wrong, but I will say I can't figure out what your motivation or end goal is. I'm no mind reader...
  5. I'm pretty sure you could get away with it if those nine fish were Tetras or GloFish. My observation is you'll need more mechanical filtration for goldfish. I wouldn't stock that heavily; but it depends on how often you plan on changing water. I'd love to have a continuous water change system... Now for the real question: are the nine named Merry, Pippin, Boromir, Gimli, Legolas, Aragorn, Frodo, Sam, and Gandalf? Or will they be collectively known as the Nazgul?
  6. I still have trouble believing it: the performance is amazing, and it's less than $25.00.
  7. I really liked the Pinned topic "Food Weight by Brand". I just got a couple of scales that are about 100x more sensitive than the ones Tithra had, so I thought I'd update it with everything I have in my cupboard. I'm not sure if it would be more appropriate to put this in my own post, or at the end of Tithra's, so I'll put it here; I can always copy it into Tithra's post later. ----------------------------------------|--------------|------|-Average--|-------| | Food | # of Pellets | Mass |Per-Pellet| Volume| ----------------------------------------|--------------|------|----------|-------| GoldFish Connection Pro Gold | 30 | 571mg| 19.03 mg |1/4 tsp| GoldFish Connection Spirulina Flakes | 20 |1236mg| 61.80 mg | N/A | GoldFish Connection Salad Supreme | 10 |2947mg| 294.7 mg | N/A | Saki-Hikari Purple | 139 | 712mg| 5.12 mg |1/4 tsp| Hikari Lionhead | 104 | 799mg| 7.68 mg |1/4 tsp| New Live Spectrum Goldfish (3mm) | 27 | 651mg| 24.11 mg |1/4 tsp| Omega one (Medium) | 28 | 850mg| 30.36 mg |1/4 tsp| ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Volume is for a "level" teaspoon, but your mileage may vary; this product is sold by weight, not volume, etc... Though I won't blame you if you you don't want to count 139 pellets of Saki-Hikari
  8. This is a review for two digital milligram scales: The first is the "Smart Weigh GEM20 High Precision Digital Milligram Scale", and the second is the "American Weigh Scales GEMINI-20 Portable Milligram Scale" I purchased both from Amazon, and they were approximately $25 each. I didn't know it at the time, but these two scales are virtually identical to each other. I'll list the minor differences later, but for almost the entire review, they are the same thing: Both scales are milligram (0.001g) scales, and are well suited for weighing out small, precise quantities of materials. Overall, the specs & features are: A clear plastic clamshell cover Blue backlight LCD cover Mass up to 20g in increments of 1 mg (0.001g)Weight in g, oz, ct, ozt, dwt, grain ​Tare Battery Operated 2xAAA (included) A few extra goodies:​Anti-Magnetic Tweezers Metal weigh boat Two 10.000g calibration weights, with a foam-padded space for one in the top of the scaleThe scale does have a calibration mode The packaging is excellent, and even includes the currently-fashionable magnet closures for the box. Notes from my use: The update frequency is about every half second or so. The weights measured by the scale remain stable, instead of jumping around constantly. Weights are very consistent:If I put an item on the scale, weigh it, and remove it, the weight drops back to zero as it should. Replacing item returns the same weight, down to the milligram. I've tried many different objects, with the weights being spot on. The calibration weights are within a milligram of 10.000 g, which is impressive at this price point. Overall, I'm very impressed with the consistency of these scales, especially for the price. I've used a number of high precision scales in various labs (both college & professional) that I've worked in. These scales don't have the kind of accuracy (micro-gram) or responsiveness the lab scales do, but they don't have the price tag either. Sadly, I don't work in labs anymore, and can't review the accuracy of these scales against NIST-calibrated gear and calibration weights. While these scales aren't useful (or legal, I believe) 'for use in trade' (such as weighing out important things like diamonds, pharmaceuticals, etc.), they are more than sufficient for other tasks where you may weigh small amounts precisely. They work great for weighing out my aquarium's diet. Now for the differences: Both scales have the models "GEM-20" and "GEMINI-20", and are virtually identical. Even the weigh boat and tweezers are identical, as are the plastic parts, reference weights, backlight, buttons... you get the idea. The difference between them is that the Smart Weigh GEM-20 has flat 'platform' to weigh with - and small containers, dishes, etc. can be placed on the platform, as shown: The GEMINI-20 requires the use of a weigh boat such as the one provided. Without the weigh boat, the GEMINI-20 won't have the entire weight of the stuff being weighed pressing against the sensor. The other difference is warranty: The GEMINI-20 has a 10-year warranty, while the Smart Weigh GEM-20 has a two year warranty. It's probably a moot point, as there's no way of knowing if either company will be around in two (or 10) years. And of course, gotta have a picture of one purpose I bought the scales. Bonus points to anyone who can figure out which scale is shown.
  9. One thing to consider: is the sand more coarse than the dirt? Bigger particles migrate to the top in any mixture that is disturbed, whether soil, nuts, or breakfast cereal. Super fine sand won't stay on top.
  10. Any discussion on food would be better in the 'food' section here at koko's than in the diagnosis & treatment section. Big reason: food selection isn't really a disease, and users are not s'posed to give out advise; only encouragement in this section. Only moderators should recommend treatment. The moderator (Helen) asked you for some better pictures, if possible. It's a royal pain, and fish have a tendency to do exactly what you don't want... But it's invaluable information. Nobody likes working without enough information. Pictures are nearly free, and will really help the moderators help you.
  11. You'd check the manufacturers website. Power isn't much of a problem- I mentioned the Microwave and a space heater for a reason: they're the only things in your apartment likely to pull that much power. A big toaster oven also uses a lot of power. Basically, if you can burn food with it, it uses a lot of power. The fan and paper shredder are fine. Aquarium gear- Lights, pumps, filters, etc. are all low power in comparison. A Fluval FX6 (a big canister filter) draws 45 watts (0.3 amps) or so - which is negligible. My Eheim 2075 draws 19 watts (0.16 amps.) The watt to amp conversion is the number of watts the device used divided by 120. (In North America) All in all, unless you have a 500-1,000 gallon tank, your equipment's power draw is almost negligible compared to what the outlet can handle. If your tank is that big, consider charging admission.
  12. Those look just fine. They're UL listed, so they've been tested to standards. The only possible gotcha is it's rated for 15 amp, so don't plug in human-comfort things like a microwave or space heater bigger than 1500 watts. I doubt that will be a problem, but I'm careful with advice. I can't stand the name, though. "Shock Buster"? Yuck. A rose by another name & all that.
  13. A 'pure' or 'true' sine wave UPS is serious, serious overkill. Those are usually only for hospital grade equipment, or sensitive analog audio systems. They come with a price tag to match. If a 'pure' sine wave didn't cost my firstborn child, I'd pass on it because the manufacturer is lying. True sine wave is absurdly expensive. The APC brand uses an approximation called a 'step sine' which is both economical and quite sufficient; I've tried the Back-UPS ES 350 ($40)and Back-UPS 550 ($50) with my Eheim 2075 and Aqueon 55/75 and they both work fine. Tripp-lite uses an approximation called a PWM sine, which should work as well.
  14. I'm trying to take your picture! NO STOP! Awe, come on!!!! Son of a-- The trials of photographing goldfish...
  15. Just trying to give some perspective on water amounts and prices:Unless you're using RODI or distilled water (and if you don't know, you're not) 27 gallons a day is not much at all. * A ten minute shower uses about 27 gallons of water with water efficient shower heads. * Flushing the average water conserving toilet uses 1.6 gallons per flush. Old toilets use double that. * I live in a desert, and my water prices is about $2.27 per thousand gallons. This works out to about $0.002 per 27 gallon water change. A 100% change every day would cost about six cents per month. * Lookup the price per gallon/liter of your city's water and do the math. It's probably so cheap it's better to worry about the fish than the cost of the water. I totally get wanting to conserve water - I live in a desert. I 'dump' my old tank water into my lawn & garden during the growing season, and use it to wash my cars. Water changes in your 27 gallon aquarium will barely make a dent in your water use. Humans use a ton.
  16. Not worse is often a good sign. I've yet to see rapid healing outside a sci-fi movie.
  17. Well, we're all human, and time makes fools of us all. The 'I'll do it tomorrow' bug is horrible, and tomorrow never comes. (ie. It's today now, and I'll do it tomorrow - over and over)My only tip: if the hardness & pH between your source (tap) and tank are the same, then match temps and do big (75-80%) changes. I took the 'many small changes' advice that's mindlessly parroted around, and could never keep the nitrates down. The math just doesn't work out; you're just not removing anywhere near as much nitrate as a single big wc. Keep in mind, though: I have hard water with the same pH of 7.8. What works for me may not work with your tap water.
  18. I've used higher doses than that... Granted, it was added to something I drank... Which is kind of the point, I guess. It's mostly tame stuff. Yup. Like acquiring a personal taste for the stuff. Causality sucks. It hurt. A lot. Don't ask.
  19. Most aquarium conditioners use one sulphur containing compound or another; I imagine the reasons are largely that they are in a sweet spot of cost-effectiveness and safety. Prime is no exception. I know the API conditioners I used for years also smelled sulphurous to me. (Though Prime's odor is stronger) Our nose is very sensitive to minute amounts of a number of sulphur compounds. The big reason is they are naturally produced by rotting foods, and eating spoiled foods is in general a bad idea. Our biology just hasn't kept up with our knowledge of the world around us. As we've developed chemistry in the last couple centuries, we've been able to isolate or produce these compounds without rotting food for the first time in history. This is awesome, because now stink bombs don't have to be dangerous.
  20. https://vimeo.com/120212866 They're all happy to be back together. When it's feeding time, all three cuddle together (instead of just two), facing me. They move in unison to follow as I move around. Super cute.
  21. Helmut has returned from his exile! https://vimeo.com/120212637 His tankies appear to be glad he's back! I will do at least one more treatment of Prazi in the main tank, probably two. The video quality is yuck; will re-upload...
  22. That line is oddly reminiscent of 'Hi, my name's Troy, and I'm a <insert problem here>'.Welcome to the support group, where we all can share how bad we are at keeping fish. My goal is to just suck less from one week to the next. The moderators are considerably more skilled and experienced than I. I'm hoping one day, I'll do a water change without needing towels. On that day, I imagine there will be a chorus of zombies moaning hallelujah. I hope your fish get better soon.
  23. $0.58/lb for pickling salt, vs the $0.66/lb for the API Aquarium salt at my LFS.The aquarium salt is more expensive, but that extra quarter may well be worth it for someone uneasy with grabbing something not 'made for aquariums' Or someone who just didn't want to stop at two stores instead of one. Either way: listen to to the moderator's advice - even in the unlikely event it includes standing on the kitchen table and clucking like a chicken. They know what they're doing, and have helped a lot of fish.
  24. Sadly, waiting is the hardest part. Most antibiotics take days to start taking effect. In my case, my fish did get worse for 2-3 days after starting antibiotics. Avoid the temptation to dump in something else, or raise the dose. Most meds are harmful at higher (or longer) doses to things like the kidneys or liver- you know, stuff the fish needs.
  25. Yay!!! I'm pretty confident his normal will be pink & kinda bloodshot. Lotta of tissue in them thar fins need'n feedin'. Though I hope it will subside a bit more. This whole post started because they were redder than normal & shredding.
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