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Everything posted by troy.telford

  1. I agree: metro isn’t the tool for that job. The fish did have lesions where the anchor worms were attached, but they have healed up. Now that the shipment of metro-free prazi (And dimilin) arrived, that’s what I’ll use.
  2. I have a bit of prazipro; but not enough. So, Amazon provides... it’ll be three days until that arrives, so the stuff I have will have to serve... Maybe there’ll be some benefit of the antibiotic to prevent secondary infection... and perhaps aid healing. (Though my understanding is Metro isn’t the best choice for a surface wound, like the one Anchor Worm produces...)
  3. So much for the label. Oh well... is the “best practice” for new fish quarantine still to use Prazi? (In this case, after a month of dimilin, to stop the anchor worm lifecycle...) I’m glad I realized what I did...
  4. So, I got a new fish. Wasn’t totally careful about examining him, but I had been to most of the stores in the area, and beggars can’t be choosers sometimes. Before I got him home, I noticed the fish had two visible anchor worms. No biggie... quarantine, treat... So, the fish was soaked in a 25mg/l potassium Permanganate solution for 30 minutes. He was starting to look stressed when I pulled him out. Next I put him in clean fresh (dechlorinated) water to recover for 10-15 minutes. I then carefully pulled out the two visible anchor worms. Got the whole thing both times. Now he’s in the hospital tank, has clean water. I put in a dose of API General Cure, which supposedly kills the parasite (Metronidazole and Praziquantel) Hospital tank is fresh water, so... pH of 8 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate (Rocky Mountain Water!) And it’s really hard water (plenty of calcium & magnesium) So far, so good. Now for my big oopsie. I went to the “normal” aquarium and grabbed a bag of bio filter media to take to the hospital tank (to help process ammonia). I got back to the hospital tank and... curses! I was still wearing the gloves I had on when I handled the infested fish! I figure it’s definitely possible that some parasite eggs stuck to my gloves, and are now in my main tank... So... should I treat my main tank (one occupant) to ensure no eggs can cause problems? Also: should I do anything for the open wounds on the new fish? Or just watch & wait?
  5. A year ago, my fish laid eggs. I didn't try to preserve any. In fact, I thought they were all gone after I moved my gravel from my main tank to a plant tank. It's been about a year since they hatched. I ended up keeping one. I have no idea what kind it is; definitely a telescope, but I have no idea if it's color pattern has a name. I've named it 'yoli' because it has an orange y on its forehead. Anybody know what pattern it's called?
  6. I'm certainly not equipped to say for certain it isn't bacterial; so agree caution is prudent.... I can say the growth has been steady-state for about eight months now, and it's only suddenly started changing now. My D&D Info: Pre W/C Post W/C Ammonia Level: 0 0 Nitrite: 0 0 Nitrate: ~40 ~10 pH: 8 8 Test Kit: API Freshwater Master (Liquid) Tank Size: 55 Gal, 4 years Filter A: Aqueon 75/55 (HOB) Filter B: Eheim 2075 Water Change Frequency: 5 Days Water Change Amount: ~75% Fish in tank: * Red Cap Oranda ~120 g * Red Ryuken ~110 g * Black Moor ~110 g Water Additives: * Seachem Prime * Seachem Flourish (fertilizer) * Seachem Excel Fish Food: * NLS Goldfish, med pellets ~1g/daily * Hikari Lionhead ~.25 g daily * Saki Hikari (purple bag) ~.25 g Daily Fish are all acting normal otherwise, with nothing else to report, really.
  7. This is a follow-up to a post I made months ago. Today, the growth on my fish's head changed quickly/dramatically: Instead of a wart-like bump on the top of his head, blisters have been forming & bursting. According to my wife, this is the at least the 2nd set (possibly 3rd) set of blisters growing & exploding today. They appear to be liquid-filled, with a very thin membrane which swells and then bursts. (I've highlighted the bump for clarity; also note the red bit in front which burst earlier today.) [Full Resolution Photo] The conclusion made back in January (with the first post) is that the bump is likely a tumor, that there's little we can do about it, and it will grow slowly - which so far, seems accurate. I am concerned with the sudden change & the fact the little 'blisters' are rupturing and emptying their contents into my main tank... I'm not as concerned for the fish with the bump on his head, but with the other fish getting sick. Sadly, what was my QT tank is now holding fry (long story... I didn't plan on fry, they just appeared...), so moving the fish isn't much of an option. I'm scheduled for a water change today, so I'm going to be doing a water change. I'll keep samples of the old water to test, and will also test the water after the change... so I'll be back in an hour or so to fill out the rest of the D&D question sheet.
  8. I'm not really concerned if it just takes time for fry to produce color- I am just totally ignorant of how long it can take. And they're getting big enough to make the tank they're in 'overstocked'. I didn't plan on fry... I literally did nothing to protect the eggs, expecting the fish in my main tank to simply eat the eggs. They hitched a ride to the 'plant' tank when I changed the substrate in my main tank. They survived in spite of me. I was shocked when they hatched. But, I'll see how they do. They hatched in mid May, I think. And a pic for the interested.
  9. The parents are a combination of: Red cap oranda Gold ryuken Black moor I really have no clue which are the parents, though. My fry are reaching 1" long, and I have one that's changed colors; the rest are the basic silvery bottom and green-black top. I'm thinking its time for a culling due to their size, but don't want to cull before they have a chance to develop color. If I'm not seeing any evidence of a color change, is it likely any of the other fry will develop color?
  10. So far, they fry are proving pretty resilient. There's probably a couple dozen fry. (hard to tell with the amount of hornwort in the tank). I've just got a brine shrimp hatchery going. If I screw that up it'll be a major accomplishment. (All of our freshwater - rivers, streams, lakes, etc. drains to the Great Salt Lake, where the eggs were probably harvested. As a result, the ph, buffering, etc. are the same as their natural habitat.) I've also been feeding powdered adult food, and have some NLS Fry Grow. I'm kinda excited to see what they look like when they develop.
  11. So, I did some big changes in my tank, shortly after my fish spawned. (I didn't want them to, but kids these days...) I had no intention of breeding/keeping the fry, and did nothing to protect the eggs. What I did do is transfer all of the gravel from my original tank to a new tank, and was using the new tank to QT some new plants - a ton of hornwort, some anubias. Fish stayed in the original tank, they're peachy. About two weeks into the QT period I noticed some fry swimming around the hornwort in the qt tank. A week later I've done nothing with the tank; the fry are still there. Out of curiosity, how likely is it that the fry will live long enough to start developing their shape & color? The only thing I have to feed is adult fish food, which I don't think will work. I imagine the fry may be snacking on algae in the tank. Again, I'm not really trying to raise the fry, but they're there... And I'm curious...
  12. Thanks! Organisms... Shooting DNA at each other to make babies. Go fig.
  13. Dozens of Little white blobs, approx 1 mm dia. Most are stuck to the surface of aquarium plants (real or fake). I haven't checked my filters yet, but I suspect they have found their way in. They are firm, but pop easily with enough pressure; the feel is more or less like flying fish roe (sushi lover). I suspect they are goldfish roe, but having never seen them before, I thought I'd ask. I'm totally not set up to handle breeding, so is there anything I need to do? Or will the goldfish eat everything?
  14. It was a couple years ago; I was really new to fish keeping. Lesson learned.
  15. I used to have a Buddha (the skinny Indian one). Problem: had holes in it. Fish decided he could fit in spite of all evidence to the contrary. Fish died.
  16. And now for the overkill answer: A very accurate method for measuring small amounts of liquid: laboratory pipettes. A bonus feature is a 10 mL pipette is easily long enough to get to the bottom of a 1 gallon bottle, so you don't have to mess with a syringe not reaching far enough, or pouring from the bottle. YMMV, but my API graduated test tubes are spot on @ 5mL.
  17. It could be a lot of things. If i weren't replying my iPhone, I'd paste the form, but you will be asked for a full list of your water parameters: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, GH, KH, and temp come to mind, but there are definitely other questions. There's a full list in one of the sticky posts. The results will help the moderators figure out what it could be, so don't fudge anything, as wrong data can lead to wrong treatment. Good lookin' fish, though. I hope he gets better soon!
  18. I was actually thinking of posting a question about that in the water quality section. Along the lines of 'if you fed the exact same amount of food in otherwise identical tanks, would three fish put out the same amount of waste as five fish?' Since the fish can only metabolize what food they are given, it would make sense that the amount of food fed is really what determines the bio load. Of course, I could also be totally wrong... My main purpose is to make my water parameters more consistent, and improve the overall quality of my fish care. Any extra 'ease' I hope to achieve is in keeping my fish healthier & therefore not having to use a QT tank for a sick fish. Having adjacent tank plumbing would be a big plus, too. 'Not having to do water changes' is a nice fantasy, though... I'll put that one up there with scaling the cliffs of Olympus Mons.
  19. Would that be enough? I want to have the more consistent water parameters continual changing provides, and I'm not sure if that'll be enough to keep my nitrates below 20 ppm... I'm not sure trusting a machine is a good idea either. Especially as it could work flawlessly for years, then just stop which would kill my tank...
  20. I just got a couple of scales that are about 100x more sensitive than the ones Tithra had, so I thought I'd update it with everything I have in my cupboard. ----------------------------------------|--------------|------|-Average--|-------| | Food | # of Pellets | Mass |Per-Pellet| Volume| ----------------------------------------|--------------|------|----------|-------| GoldFish Connection Pro Gold | 30 | 571mg| 19.03 mg |1/4 tsp| GoldFish Connection Spirulina Flakes | 20 |1236mg| 61.80 mg | N/A | GoldFish Connection Salad Supreme | 10 |2947mg| 294.7 mg | N/A | Saki-Hikari Purple | 139 | 712mg| 5.12 mg |1/4 tsp| Hikari Lionhead | 104 | 799mg| 7.68 mg |1/4 tsp| New Life Spectrum Goldfish (3mm) | 27 | 651mg| 24.11 mg |1/4 tsp| Omega one (Medium) | 28 | 850mg| 30.36 mg |1/4 tsp| ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Volume is for a "level" teaspoon, but your mileage may vary; this product is sold by weight, not volume, etc... Though I won't blame you if you you don't want to count 139 pellets of Saki-Hikari
  21. There was a week in my life where 100% of my calorie intake was Chocolate. A roommate got a 25 lb hershey bar, and was sick of chocolate. I was out of money... so vitamin pills & chocolate it was...
  22. Now I'm confused... I mentioned salt only as an example of something that's really only removed from a tank with a water change. ie. Not something you can filter.
  23. So, I have a tentative plan to do a bit of home improvement, which will include a water softening system (for water heater, shower, laundry) so I'll be doing a fair amount of plumbing anyway... So, as long as I'm whacking that hornet's nest, I'll run a tap and drain to my aquarium. (Technically, the tap will be "for the refrigerator's ice system", but they are located close enough to each other.) So, I'd like to do a continuous drip system to change my tank's water. The problem: I have chlorinated tap water (unlike the guy in the YouTube video below) I also don't have room for a holding tank to pre-treat a day's worth of water with a dechlorinator like Prime, as shakaho does. So... I'm looking for input for ideas, and a sanity check... First: according to my city water report, my tap water gets a maximum of 0.5ppm of chlorine. I'm thinking of a flow rate of 1-1.5 Gal/h for my 55 gallon tank. So: options... While I could use a carbon filter for chorine, I don't want to ever have to worry about the carbon filter suddenly being ineffective should my utility company switch to chloramine in the future. It's not the sort of thing there would be a big public awareness campaign over; the switch would likely 'just happen'... My first idea is to drip tap water into the main tank. Next, dilute prime with distilled water, to make it easier to accurately dose with a dosing pump. Then every X minutes, it adds an appropriate dose of prime to the main tank. The second idea is a minor variation: instead of adding to the main tank, both are added to a smallish (1 liter) container that overflows into the main tank. That way the prime has a chance to dechlorinate the water first. So far, I'm leaning towards the 2nd one... Next, the dosing mechanism for prime: there are the dosing systems some reef keepers use. The downsides are cost, control complexity, and dependence on electricity. I've also thought of a of dripper to dose prime - something like a hospital IV, provided it's a constant drip rate. I have no idea if the drip rate really is constant... Or if the equipment would hold up to continual use- or if it's cheaper than a dosing system... Any other thoughts/ideas?
  24. One thing that may help: check out your local tap water's water quality report. You said NYC, so its report is at: http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/html/drinking_water/wsstate.shtml Telling us the GH and KH of your tank's water will be helpful.
  25. I agree completely. I've tried a few ways and spent a fair amount of money to filter nitrates without water changes. I've found none to be effective. In some ways, I am starting to think the best metaphor for removing nitrates would be removing salt: Desalinization is possible, but it isn't practical or cheap. It's also not just about nitrates. Nitrates are the 'litmus test' that's easy/cheap. It's often said that Nitrates are used to indicate when other water parameters (which aren't so easy to test) have probably also risen to undesirable levels. I'm sure a guy with a really awesome planted tank could chime in and say his plants take care of some nitrates. The thing is planted tanks are yet another layer of effort, knowledge, and experience. I'm trying to do a planted tank, as I want real plants instead of plastic. I haven't been terribly successful so far.
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