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  1. Hello! I'm going to be moving into a dorm this month, and while I have family willing to take care of my larger fish, I'd really like to have a tank to take care of throughout the year The criteria I'm working with are: I have a 4 gallon aquarium with a HOB filter or a 10 gallon with a sponge filter that I can use. 10 gallons is the max that my school allows. I'd prefer a somewhat understocked tank, because frequent or large water changes are sure to be a pain in a dorm This is my biggest concern: Something that will have an easier time with the 2.5-3 hour car ride to my school. I'll have to make this trip at least 4 times a year for the major breaks, and I know that some fish can be very bothered by the long and bumpy trip That is why I was thinking snails could be appropriate? Do they have an easier time with car rides since they can anchor themselves to the holding container? In addition, does anyone have suggestions as far as types/numbers go? (I know I'm going to be a bit limited with these criteria, but I'd also welcome any suggestions for fish/shrimp/basically any aquatic critters that would meet these conditions! Thanks a lot!)
  2. About a week into the prazi and kanaplex, he's taken a turn for the worse. He's been pale, and since last night seems to be having trouble staying afloat-- he periodically darts to the top of the tank to breathe, but sinks back down to laying on the bottom. He's also breathing very heavily. I have a couple of those suction cup leaves near the top for him to sit on, but he's not staying on them very well. The original infection hasn't progressed to his body yet, so I think this may be related to the medications? My first instinct was to do a water change to get some fresh water in there, but I wasn't certain. I also thought about floating him in a cup so he's closer to the top?
  3. If I pursued that, should I stop Furan and salt treatments? And is Kanaplex a sufficient brand of kanamycin? And yes, being cupped never fails to perk him up He's such a grumpy little guy
  4. I was having a heck of a time getting pictures, so I grabbed a video-- is that okay? And whats the best way to actually post that? (Sorry, I checked the how-to section but couldn't find one!)
  5. As of right now I'm 7 doses into the Furan-2 treatment and at 1 tsp per gallon of salt. His parameters are still testing at 0 on water change days. It looks like the white area has shrunk, but its still progressing somewhat and I wanted to check what my next step should be if I complete the Furan round without success. I know you'd mentioned upping the salt dose, as well as Kanaplex? I have plenty of salt, 4 extra packets of Furan, and some Triple Sulfa on hand; it'd be a few days before I could access the Kanaplex but I can definitely get that ordered. Not 100% sure is this is relevant, but he has seemed less active the past few days. His gills have been looking a little odd too; I think he's holding them further out from his body than normal? Sorry for the quality; if you need a better picture I can try tomorrow.
  6. There's been a bump! I did a full water change today and placed him in the tank with new water, a packet of Furan-2, and 10 tsp of AQ salt. That was ~14 hours ago. When I checked on him ~7 hours later he seemed normal; active and fine. A couple of hours ago he was floating very still at the top of the tank, and when I checked on him just now he was doing the same until I poked at the water so he would move and I could get a better look; he then went to the bottom and has been hovering there since. His breathing seems a little slow and labored, but as I said he has damaged gills, so that's pretty standard for any time he's not at peak health. The infection doesn't appear to have progressed but he is very pale and still. I checked the temperature, and lo and behold my heater had malfunctioned and the tank was at ~71. I've replaced the heater and am waiting for that to fix the tank, but I'm not very familiar with what strain/distress from the water additives would look like-- should I go ahead and put him in fresh water, or wait and see if the heater returns him to normal?
  7. Okay! Will I follow the same treatment pattern (Day 1: Dose 1, Day 2: Dose 2, Day 3: 25% WC, repeat)? I have a spare cycled filter that I can transfer in to keep water quality under control with the fewer water changes
  8. Hmmm the box that I have recommends a 6-day 4 dose treatment-- Should I be on a different regimen than that?
  9. I think I have some Furan-2 that I can add to the tank. If I use that, should I do a 100% water change to remove all of the salt?
  10. * Test Results for the Following: * * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 ppm * * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 ppm * * Nitrate level(Tank) 0 ppm * * Ammonia Level(Tap)0 ppm * * Nitrite Level(Tap)0 ppm * * Nitrate level(Tap)0 ppm * * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.4 * * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.4 * Other Required Info: * * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * * Water temperature? 78F * * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 10 gallons, 1 week * * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? None (its a temporary treatment tank with regular water changes) * * How often do you change the water and how much? Every other day, 20% * * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? A day ago, 20% * * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 full grown Betta * * What kind of water additives or conditioners? API water conditioner, 2 tablespoons of AQ salt * * What do you feed your fish and how often? Omega One betta pellets * * Any new fish added to the tank? No * * Any medications added to the tank? Salt * * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Salt, begun when I set up the tank * * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White area on tail; part has been eaten away and is tipped with white fuzz. It appeared just over a week ago and has been very slowly progressing * * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? He has been far less active the past two months or so; he is a rescue that I've had almost two years and I suspect its just aging (he also has badly damaged gills)
 Essentially, the salt water has not caused much of an improvement and I'm not sure what route to take (other medication, salt dip, upping salt content, etc.)
  11. I accidentally bought the Fluval prefilter rings instead of the normal ceramic. They look about the same as the normal rings, but I'm not sure how to tell if they're a different material and porous enough to hold a cycle... does anyone have experience here? Also, if they won't hold bacteria, is there any good use for them or should I see about sending them back?
  12. Thanks for all the advice! I did end up going with the pair of Aqueon, but now that they're set up I'm a bit worried about the fish getting stuck to the intake, seeing how powerful it is. Is there a best way to block that? I've used prefilter sponges in the past, and I was also considering making a box of cross stitch netting (like people use to make tank dividers) to ensure some distance. Does anyone have any experiences with those?
  13. My two 20 gallon Natgeo internal filters that I've been using for a few years now have finally died, so I'm back to the search for a new filter. The tank is 55 gallons and should only ever be housing a pair of singetail goldies. I'd like to keep the price below $60, but find something in that price range that'll last! My only oddball factor is that I've had a consistent problem with free-floating algae in that tank since I set it up, so something that will be able to handle some algae gunk until the problem is fixed would be great. (I've been looking especially at Aquaclear power filter 70 or a SunSun canister that does 264 gph, but any suggestions are welcome.)
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