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Everything posted by Miss_Goldie

  1. She's actually perfectly fine right now. I'm thinking she had an infestation of flukes. The prazi treatment, while beneficial, caused her pain from the sores left over from the flukes. I could even see little sores of her armpits and face. Today was the first day that she been acting normal and not isolated herself in the plants for the entire day. And, she's not scared anymore. I feel like all of the her symptoms were caused by flukes and the treatment. I have successfully lowered the nitrates as well. Two days ago I did a water change and the nitrates read 10 - 20 ppm (I really must be color blind). The dirty filters were definitely the nitrate factories. I'm trying to keep the water quality in tip-top shape so that Lily's wounds don't get infected. Thanks everyone for your help. I'll be the first to let you all know if I need help at all. I really appreciate it. Common side effects when using Prazi Pro Does prazi affect fish?
  2. She definitely has flukes. Apart from the isolation, she has clamped fins and one little red sore in her arm pit. Since I'm already treating, when do you guys think she'll get better? I hate see her like this.
  3. Unfortunately Lily is now isolating herself in the plants wedged, head down, between the filter and the back of the tank. She'll only come out if I tempt her with food and help maneuver her. When she comes out her balance is fine and she swims normal. Her breathing is normal too unless she over exerts herself swimming. Then she goes right back to her spot. Was the darting a sign of flukes and I just thought she was being scared? What should I do?
  4. Just did a 50% water change. Tested the nitrates before change and they were between 40 ppm and 80 ppm (I can never tell the color difference). Took your advice and opened my canister filters. Filthy is not even the word to describe it. No wonder my nitrate were so high. Filled to the brim with snail poo! I haven't done it since I got the fish (2 weeks ago). Who know when I did it before? It's probably been about 2-3 months. How often would you recommend opening and cleaning them? I also vacuumed in the back throughout the plants. I usually only do it in front. Adding that to the list too. I also added Prazi for the 2nd round and reduce the amount of food for the meantime. Considering the Prazi, should I do a 50% water change on the third day of it being in the tank since it goes inactive by then? Then wait two more days before I add it back again for the 3rd round?
  5. The only thing is that she just started being skittish about 4 days ago. So it's kinda confusing. I don't have them in my tap water but I age 30 gallons of it for 48 hrs before I add it to the tank . I have a low KH in the tap so by that time the crushed coral and argentine sand buff the pH. When I transferred the aged water it has a pH of 8.0-8.2. That matches my tank also, pH of 8.2. The are in a 75 gallon tank but I'm guessing it is really 60 gallons since the plants, substrate, and rock take up so much space. Have you never met a person who was shy and avoided uncomfortable situations? A sensitive fish is likely to be even more shy when water conditions deteriorate. Would you please give us the rest of your parameters, including the pH of both the tank and the tap, and the size of the tank. Test before you change more water. Your nitrate concentration definitely says you are overfeeding. Even growing fish don't need that much food unless you want them obese for show purposes. Obesity shortens life in fish as well as people. Obesity in goldfish also increases the risk of swim bladder disorder. People who overfeed show purposes also do frequent (often daily) 100% water changes. Once we see your parameters, we can suggest a water change sequence to get rid of the nitrate. How much would you recommend feeding? I was unaware I was overfeeding until I read my nitrates. I can't remember who told me on here to feed 2-3% if I am solely feeding Repashy. That's all they eat for their staple diet. I give them protein every other day. They've also been eating duckweed like crazy. About 50% of the surface was covered with it and now it is just about gone. Isn't this contributing to the nitrates as well? I'm doing a water change tomorrow so I can get that test for you then. Should I gradually lower the nitrates with small, very frequent water changes?
  6. Just read this thread. Maybe the plants are a comfortable resting place for here. She is cradled pretty nicely in the Val and Pennywort. Its like she is having "peace and quiet". I feel like it might be a combination of things. I scared her so she swims off... now she equates that to all fast motion. Storm probably follows her around way too much. Lily swims away but it isn't because Storm is being mean just annoying. BTW, Storm doesn't follow Lily into the plants. Maybe thesis just how she deals with stress. BUT! Maybe this is a possible nitrate shock and I've been trying to link two things together (being scared and hiding/resting in plants) that might not correlate. I just did 5 days ago 50% water change because my nitrates were at 80 ppm. (took the opportunity to start Prazi treatment) Read. Contributing to nitrates: I feed 3% body weight Repashy split over three feeding periods and they eat the plants too (mostly duckweed). Could this be over feeding? Should I increase my water changes? Right now I'll be doing 50% water change every week. Could nitrate shock be the reason why Lily has strange behavior?
  7. So I got two Orandas about two weeks ago and everything was great. Both seemed to be very healthy and are going through a Prazi treatment right now just to make sure. As I'm getting to know them it has become very evident that Lily gets startled easily. The odd thing about it is that of the two fish she is the more aggressive when it comes to feeding (I hand feed) and exploring the heavily planted parts of the tank. It seems like any amount of movement around the tank, but not in the tank, startles her. She darts off into the plants to hide and remains extremely still. It looks like she is holding her breath too. Her heart is definitely racing because you can see her body thumping. She is like this for about 3-5 minutes, then she pops out like nothing happened. At first I thought it might be something electrical because when her body thumps it like a sudden jolt. But wouldn't the other Oranda (Storm) be presenting the same symptoms? Maybe thats ruled out. My next assumption was maybe there is some bullying going on. Luckily I've been home for the past 3 days to monitor them interacting with each other. No bullying at all. If anything Storm likes to follow Lily around and lay next to her which could definitely be annoying. But no fin nipping or headbutts. Then I though that maybe it is triggered by the vibrations when we walk near the tank or make sudden movements. The first time Lily darted off to hide, I was doing maintenance on the tank. I kneeled down to get something from under the tank and came up fast. Lily happened to be right in from of the tank and I scared her. Maybe now she remembers that and is scared when we move faster than usual? So today when I got home, she darted off like usual and came out a few minutes later. I watched her for about an hour after this happened. Now she is confining herself to the inner depths of the plants, only pokes out every few minutes, and quickly returns. After watching, I feed them some repashy and Lily came out with the quickness pushing Storm out if the way to get to my fingers. So I guess I'm asking do you guys have fish like this? Can anyone unravel this mystery with Lily, the outgoing introvert.
  8. I was reading the "Salt as Treatment" article but it doesn't say how long the treatment's duration should be. How long do you suggest to get rid of all the nasties? http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/saltastreatment.html
  9. I was thinking the same thing. "Why add salt? It's not like I'm treating for ich." Chelsea makes a good point in saying that the salt is used to aid the healing process. But your saying that it is unnecessary for fish not showing symptoms. In my case I'll just use the prazi since my fish seem pretty healthy and normal. Back on topic... Maybe this is why the manufacture doesn't suggest to use Prazi with salt? If we were adding salt to also simultaneously treat ich, the manufacture wouldn't know this and is thinking we're only treating for flukes, or the like. But who knows? It seems like the salt isn't a bad idea. If something functions to our needs, why change it?
  10. Would it be beneficial if I just did salt dips for the fish and then returned them to the tank? I've read somewhere that the plants can only take 1tsp per 5 gallons for a short period of time. Or should I just skip the salt altogether?
  11. I'm asking because I'm about to treat my new fish and I was debating if I should treat in the main tank or in a QT. Then I found this article at goldfish connection. It seems that your not fully treating for flukes unless the entire aquarium system is treated. This made sense to me so I decided that I would do it in the main tank. But the only issues is that it's heavily planted and I scared the salt could be detrimental to the plants (I had looked at the recommended dosing schedule here). But then I thought about how Rick claims that you can treat without stress but does't mention adding salt. So it sounded good to me, I'll just treat with no salt. Win-win, then I found this thread. So now I'm wondering if adding salt is beneficial in the first place. Are we using it a a tonic or stress reliever? The best thing I found is a saying that salt might help with producing slime coat and boosting the immune system. I guess I just wanted to know if this 1) true, and 2) does salt aid in the healing process, and 3) is it worth me adding salt to my planted tank to treat the entire aquarium (filters and all) for flukes?
  12. Sorry if a little off topic, but why add salt? What are the benefits of adding it?
  13. Congrats on your new purchase! This is only the beginning...
  14. Yeah it was definitely wen growth. A couple of other spots showed up but then soon disappeared. Her dark color makes the white spots more noticeable. I can barely see the growth on my other fish's orange wen, but its there too. Thanks for your help everyone.
  15. Not griping as in 'squeezing'. Just aiding in the fish not slipping out. Either way, some slime coat will come off. Do you think that bare hands would take less slime coat off than wearing latex gloves? I've always just used my bare hands but it seems latex would help with cross contamination among fish if you changed gloves after every fish.
  16. My question is how exactly should you hold the fish? I've thought about using latex gloves. Probably helps with grip, especially on the larger ones that wiggle a lot.
  17. I've got a Current Satellite Freshwater LED Plus on my heavily planted 75G goldfish tank. I've got the single ramp timer too. Make sure you get the right ramp timer because some aren't comparable with some of the fixtures. Everything works like a dream. I remember trying to decide between the regular (one strip of LEDs) and the plus. I ended up getting the plus because it had higher par. You can see the values for the plus here and for the regular here. I initially bought two thinking that the par values for a "low-tech" was ~ 40-80. I got some algae at the top of my plants (the light sits directly on the tank) so I have one of the light turned off. When I get around to it, I'm going to make a light hanging system. If anything they worked better than I thought, definitely a great buy. I would show a picture of the tank but it's looking a little hairy right now!
  18. Dido, I've spent a lot but it is all well worth it now. They are too cute to pass up It's kinda a loose-loose when you think about the money. If you do it all right, you spend a lot to make sure everything is perfect. However if you do it wrong, you spend even more trying to correct all the misdoings.
  19. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) 5 ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0.25 ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) 10 ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.2 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Test Kit (drops) * Water temperature? 70-74 F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 75 G. Running for 4 months heavily planted . Running 2 days with new fish * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval 405 (340 gph) and SunSun HW-304B (525 gph) * How often do you change the water and how much? Before fish arrived I changed the water about once a month. I usually just vacuum and whatever water is remove I replace with a top off. Might be about 15 G each time. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Last water change was about two weeks ago * How many fish in the tank and their size? Two Oranda. Red/White Oranda: 80 grams and 7 inches total length. Blue Oranda: 60 grams and 6 inches total. * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seachem Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Repashy 50/50 mix of Soilent/Super three times daily. They released a bunch of eggs the following morning and have been eating those too. * Any new fish added to the tank? Two with no previous residents (if you don't count the snails) * Any medications added to the tank? None * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. None * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Blue Oranda has white pimple on wen * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Both are happy as clams and eating like crazy! I just wondering if this "pimple" is anything to be worried about. I wanted to make sure that it is not normal wen growth before I put her in the hospital tank. As I'm writing it seems to be going down and there is no redness at all. The pimple did have a pin point center that was fuzzy (I guess that could be pus). Here are some pictures and the pimple in question is on the left side of the head Thanks for reading
  20. True. I just found this thread. Although it is a great idea but they would definitely be floaty. Repashy Feeding Disks
  21. Ok I definitely try it out. Thanks for the advice. I can't wait to feed my little piggies
  22. I've used dried seaweed before and the fish loved it! It really made a mess of my tank though, falling off in bits and clogging the filter. Does this happen to you too? There is an Korean supermarket near me and they had loads of the Nori. I just kinda picked up a random brand and tired it. I wonder if other ones flake off like the one I chose. What brand do you use?
  23. Thank you both. That's exactly the information I need. Would you recommend that I feed a supplemental every day? Which one should be feed more than the others, if there would be a choice? I would prefer to feed a solely gel-based diet but the only issue is that I work throughout the day. I've seen the gel food spread on a rock for fry and I assume they graze all day. Would that work in my case... or would they gobble it before I even step out the house?
  24. I'm making a feeding schedule for my future goldfish and I wanna make sure that I get it right the first time. I've been reading that variety is key and I think I've got that down. As for the staple food source, I'll be feeding 2% of the fish's body weight, correct? This percentage does not include supplemental food like brine shrimp, bloodworms, or spinach, etc. Would the Repashy gel food be considered a staple food source, like sinking pellets? Or is it supplemental? Should I consider it to be a part of the 2%? _____________ The feeding schedule: Every morning, --Sunday, frozen krill --Monday, edamame --Tuesday, frozen daphnia --Wednesday,green leaf lettuce --Thursday, frozen bloodworms --Friday, peas --Saturday, frozen brine shrimp with spirulina Every mid-day, 1% (or 2% if the gel food is considered supplemental) body weight of Omega One sinking pellets split into two to three times. I'll be using an automatic feeder since I'm at work, any recommendations of which one is good? Is there any reason why I should be using Hikari sinking pellets instead? Every night, 1% body weight of Repashy Super Green and Soilent Green 50/50 mix. ______________ When feeding the frozen foods/supplemental, should I just plunk in one of the cubes or should I feed a certain percentage of the fish's body weight? How many peas, edamame, and spinach should I feed per fish? Also, should I be feeding the gel food in the morning instead of at night, vice versa with the supplemental? Doesn't really matter to me, just wanted to know the best order to feed for the fish. BTW, I have a 75 gallon "low-tech" aquarium, heavily planted. I'll be getting two Orandas eventually. I figured if I understocked and feeding pretty well they won't destroy their home that I've spent months creating. Thanks for reading. If there are any changes you think I should make, I would greatly appreciate your advice. Sorry if it's long and there are so many questions. I tried to keep it short and to the point.
  25. I've also heard that you could put them in the oven. Not quite sure about that though. Anyone know?
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