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Miss_Goldie

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Everything posted by Miss_Goldie

  1. As always you guys are great. Thanks for the additional explanation too.
  2. Should I add heat too? Just curious, why do you wait two weeks to add the Prazi? Thank you everyone for the complements! I saw him and had to strike. Drop dead gorgeous. His harem awaits...
  3. Thanks for the link. Do you know if I should I not treat with the Prazi unless I see symptoms?
  4. Just got this bad boy and I've got a couple of questions about QTing him. I have salt, heater, and liquid Prazi. Should I treat in any particular order to reduce stress? Or, should I not treat for anything unless I see symptoms? And, how long should I QT? http://vid1025.photobucket.com/albums/y317/Miss__Goldie/20150702_105154_zpsxwllzond.mp4
  5. I feel like most might say my maintenance is a little rigorous (or at least it feels that way to me). I don't mind it so much as it has become my relaxing time. But, definitely make a schedule that is easy to remember, unless you use an app etc, and stick to it. Don't skip a day. Its all about making it a good habit. On Saturday I age the water and I add my baking soda and Seachem Replenish. Monday I do a 50% water change. First, I scrub the front wall. I prune all the excess plants. Then, I wave my hand in the water to get all the snail poo from behind the dense plants. Next, I vacuum all the poo up and remove 50% of the water. Finally, I refill with the aged water and add the ferts. Every fourth water change (monthly) I change 100% of the water and dump the snail poo water from the canister filters. I always like to take a q-tip to the impeller on the canister filter and power heads to remove all the muck. Best thing to do though is make a schedule that you know you'll have time for. Before I used to do maintenance without a schedule. Water changes were not as regular and I found it to be more like work. Maybe because I hadn't made a routine that I could improve upon. When I first started it took me a long time +3 hrs for me to finish the maintenance. But with the schedule, it became more regular and therefore I became faster at it. Now I know what to expect and it take me about an hour on normal days with minimal pruning.
  6. I haven't start "that thread" about my Goldfishnet experience yet.. so I'll pm you when back from work I am so happy your little guy is doing better! I'm sure it was a tricky situation trying to figure out if you treat vs. voiding your warranty, etc. I've been scouring his site trying to find a calico oranda so I'll be very interested in hearing the details about your experience. Sad to say but it could be the deciding factor if I buy, simply because the fish are expensive plus shipping. I don't know the details but to me it seems like you shouldn't have been sent a fish in that condition. Could you put a link to "that thread" here when you write it? Sending good vibes so you and your little Tele get over this hump.
  7. I bought all my plants from AquariumPlants.com. I find this place to be cheaper and have better quality plants than I can get anywhere around me. I ordered over $100 in plants so I was a little nervous but the reviews on there site were right. Everything came alive but considering that I choose to do two day shipping I did have to clip a few dead leaves but nothing severe. It seemed to me that they also gave extra. I ordered an anubias and crypt that were so large I had the opportunity to split both into two plants. I didn't even clean the plants before I put them in (bad on my part) so I did get some travelers, ramshorn and trumpet snails, which I didn't mind. What shocked me is that I didn't really get any traveling algae like I do when I buy from the local stores.Tank's been set up since November and everything is thriving. I can't even keep up with the growth. I will be buying from them for my next project.
  8. Oh I see... I thought you just started doing the Metricide to get a boost on the growth and then the BBA and Staghorn. My mistake. However, I do know that Elodea and some other plants like Vals are sensitive to carbon dosing. Maybe that's why you've got some melting going on. What I would do is: Raise the lights to decrease the amount of PAR hitting the surface of the water. When I started my last tank, Staghorn took over the entire top portion of the tank. Once I raised the lights it literally disintegrated before my eyes. I was having to shake it off and scoop it with a net. Decrease the photoperiod for the meantime until you get that balance. Then you could up it gradually. Mine are actually on for 12 hours so I can attest that a long photoperiod could work if you have a good carbon source (dirt in my case). I would cut your dosage of the Metricide for the time being. You could always bring it up gradually again but I would go slow and keep an eye out if the melting occurs again. And, I would add macros and the micro to you fert schedule. As for the BBA, I've yet to experience it. If you have fluctuations in CO2 I would increase the flow in your tank to distribute the CO2 more evenly. And, up the surface action to get more CO2 into the water column. I know it sound contrary to what you might have read but moving water is better than still water IMO. Edit: I would cut the Metricide by a fourth.
  9. How long has the tank been up and running? I would definitely recommend you read Tom Barr's Non-Co2 Method. Minus the no water changes (I do 50% once a week), I follow everything he says and it has worked wonders on my low-tech tank. To me it looks like you might need more plant mass and nutrients on a stable schedule. Adding some fast growers would definitely help. I really like Vals, Pennywort, and tiger lotus because they grow like weeds. I'm kinda surprised elodea isn't working out. Its very prolific and can grow in many environments! That what makes me think you might also have a nutrient problem. If you barely use the tabs and just started the matricide, you definitely got a spike in nutrients. Since you don't have many fast growers that can suck up those nutrients that could have cause the algae to take hold. And if you're not using the nutrients on a scheduled dosage... leads to even more troubles. The plants you have never get used to a schedule. Algae has a greater affinity to nutrients, carbon, etc. so it has a better fighting chance than the plants. But, the high quantity of plants, given the right amount of light, can out compete the algae. Since you don't have any dirt, you could use the Metricide as a carbon source. Beware though too high of a dosage could hinder the plants instead of help. I would also add some macro and micros to your fert schedule. The tiger lotus that I recommended loves root tabs. I add my ferts after I do a water change. Macros and carbon the first day followed by micros on the second day. Do you get the stag horn algae at the of the plants closet to the light and in the flow? If so you light might to too intense at the surface and you might need to raise it. Try not to worry about killing the algae but figure out what is causing it. Just my . Because if you kill it but keep everything the same, it will return. Get a balance of nutrients, carbon, and light, Then prepare for battle on the algae. Or you might not have to, it could go away on it's own as you give the plant a better handle on the competition by providing that balance.
  10. If I added water directly from the tap would the KH be too low for too long? I'm worried that there might be a swing when I'm doing a water change. It took 24hours for the KH and GH to be in the right range. The pH of the tap is 7.4 The pH of the tank right now (after water change 24 hours ago) is 8.0
  11. I didn't know that about the coral. Thanks for the info. I don't really know if the pH is stable. I would assume so since the fish act normal throughout the day. Assumption are usually not always right. I'm off tomorrow so should I periodically check the pH throughout the day? How often?
  12. I'm getting conflicting information. Can anyone tell me what the optimal dH for KH and GH are? The reason I'm asking is because my tap water's KH is 3 dH (53.7 ppm) and the GH is 6 dH (107.4 ppm). From what I've read so far, I know the KH and GH values are too low. When I put together my tank I made a layered substrate of dirt sprinkled with crushed coral and capped with aragonite sand. I figured this would be enough to boost the GH and KH to certain degree and stabilize. Of course when I do water changes this process happens again. So yesterday I did a water change and 24 hours after I measured the KH at 7 dH (125.3 ppm) and the GH at 8 dH (143.2 ppm). Seems like the crushed coral and aragonite sand are doing there work. But a few questions: 1. Do I still need to tinker with the water to raise the KH and GH or are they in there optimal range? and, 2. Since I'm not adding any buffers or replenishing the minerals with lost with the water change, is this too much time for the KH and GH values to not be in there optimal range? I also have ample amounts of SeaChem Replenish and baking soda.
  13. I couldn't wait any longer... she was looking so bored in the QT. A couple of days before I noticed the signs of fin rot Storm laid eggs. Lily, even though she is a girl (I've actually seen her lay eggs too), would chase Storm and eat the eggs as they were coming out. Kinda a weird visual but Lily was loving it and I think maybe it got a little too rough. I notice shortly after that she has some frayed fins but figured it would heal on its own as long as I keep the water crystal clear. I've kept on schedule with no parameters out of whack. I guess just because it looks crystal clear and there a no signs of waste doesn't mean that something isn't lurking. Frayed fins were enough for this bacterium to attack. Good thing I caught it early and you guys were here to help right when I needed it most. Thank you all.
  14. Today is day 9 in 0.1% salt and I think that she is A.O.K. No more discoloration and the line of white fuzz is gone. It sorta looks like there is some new growth too. Do you think she is ready to come out of QT?
  15. Today is day 6 at 0.1% salt. Here's a pic to see how she is progressing. The color of her fin tip is more saturated now but she still has that trailing edge of fuzziness. Thanks for reminding me. So many details, yet so little time to learn them all.
  16. Yep it is 0.1% salt. I guess my cycled media isn't working which is weird because it came directly out of my canister filter on the main tank. I checked the ammonia level this morning and it was at 0.5 ppm. Couldn't do a water change at the moment so I just doubled primed. When I get home tonight I'll do a 100% change.
  17. Sorry about the absence... I've been working all long night shifts I don't know how old she is. Maybe between one and two years given her size and wen development, if I had to guess. I was unable to get a picture because by the time I checked her out when I finally got home, the crimps/bruises were gone. Maybe I imagined them being there in the first place but I could have sworn they were there. Weird... Anyways her tail is healing nicely with only a small amount of fuzziness on the edges. There is a small chunk missing but it is barely noticeable. Do you guys think I should wait it out a few more days?
  18. Thanks everyone for all the information. I did do a 100% water change last night and moved her to a bucket during the process. I thought this is probably really stressful. I was hoping I can stretch the days by adding the cycled media. Looks like it is working, ammonia levels are 0. (I tested the residual water left over in the bucket that I was holding her in). But now she has fresh clean water. It seems like the fraying is going down. Before the tips of her fins were washed out looking, now the color is starting to come back. I was thinking I'd she is better in a week I'd take her out and put her in the main tank. But, how will I know if she is 100% better? I also noticed that fins have a crimped appearance. Like a crushed flower petal. It just appeared after I added her to the QT. Is this caused by stress?
  19. The QT is 15 gal. so I'll just change it daily. The heater is out too and I floated some ice to get the temp in the normal range. I'll keep you updated if thing worsen but it looks like she is going to do just fine.
  20. Alright I put Storm in the QT last night with cycled media. I did put a heater in there and set it to about 78-80 F. Just a couple of questions... How often should I do water changes in the QT? I figured that I would do a 100% change every day just to keep the water fresh and clean. Is the temperature in the right range? And, How long should I keep her in the QT?
  21. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) 40 ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0.25 ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) 10 ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * Water temperature? 74-76 F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 75 gal (60 gal swimming space); running for 8 months total, 3 monthswith fish * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? SunSun 304B and Fluval 405 * How often do you change the water and how much? Every 7 days 50% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 6 days ago 50% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 Oranda both about 6 inches * What kind of water additives or conditioners?Seachem Prime and ferts for plants (CSM+B/KH2PO4/KHNO3) * What do you feed your fish and how often? Repashy twice daily (2 grams for each fish total and alternating protein (bloodworms etc.) and nori * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Not now * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Prazi on entire tank for 6 weeks when fish first arrived. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Frayed fins on my blue oranda * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Everyone is at their normal activity level. I noticed that my blue Oranda, Storm, has frayed fins on the bottom lobes of her caudal fin. It is not excessive but it looks like it might be creeping up and has changed her normal grey color to a whitish color. I don't notice any film at the time. Sorry about photo quality I tried to do my best with how fast they are. On hand I have triple sulfa and QT tank ready to go. Just need the word if it is fin rot or not.
  22. I have two of those SunSuns and they are fantastic. I really recommend buying them from American Aquarium Products, however, because they haven available additional and improved ball valves, fittings, and include extra media that don't come in the package from Amazon. They also purvey some of the finest aquaria articles being written today and using the store helps them pay for that. They are my absolutely favorite retailer and I discovered them when trying to decipher the Chinglish instructions that came with the SunSuns I boughr elsewhere I remember I had trouble with those terrible instructions. But, you can't beat the price and it comes with a free brain tickle!
  23. Here is an affordable canister filter option if you decide to not go second hand: Sun Sun HW304B only $90 for 525 GPH They have other options for lower gph but it is by far the less expensive that I have found. I actually have two on my 75 gallon and they are fantastic! I've got crystal clear water and if the fish make a mess from digging it is clear again in less than an hour. The only downfall is that it doesn't have a warranty. I try to keep all the impellers clean and running smooth to prevent anything from breaking.
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