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Reds12

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Posts posted by Reds12

  1.  

    Just throwing this out there... Is it possible someone in the household who is not a fan of the fish, or maybe even a child, put someonehing into the tank that killed them? Like bleach for example. Just throwing it out there because it has happened before.

    I fed my sister's fish a pencil lead when I was little and it died  :donthit:

     

    My son tried feeding my fish cornstarch recently since its also in a yellow container just like their food.  :|  I don't know if they would have died, but it would have been a giant mess to clean up at least.

  2. I'm just going to throw this out there incase someone else is reading this for their own situation...although it doesn't seem to be 100% relevant to this post per se.  I'm no experct by any means, but know from experience that going from high nitrates to 0 nitrates CAN put a goldfish into shock.  It doesn't seem to take any effect on healthy goldfish that haven't been in higher nitrates for long, but if they've been sitting in high levels like that for some time, they probably aren't as strong healthwise as they should be to not have some degree of shock from that quick of a drop.  I've literally seen a goldfish start convulsing because of this - but like mentioned above, it wasn't the healthiest fish.

     

    Just thought I'd mention since she did say its been during this last semester, and not just within the last week.  I think its a minority case, but still something worth keeping in mind if you do happen to have a less than healthy goldie.

     

    Also, I didn't see this mentioned so if it was sorry for the repeat but I'd up the O2 levels in the tank until the water is stabilized.  If your fish are stressed, they'll appreciate it :)

  3. I actually saw a demo of this in person a few days ago and its pretty awesome!  Its HUGE and obviously expensive so not something I'd get, but I could see it being a big help in a business office tank or something that might not have anyone willing to clean it until the hired company shows up.

  4. I normally don't cover my tanks, but with a 2 year old in my house I had no choice with one of them...I'm sure the fish wouldn't appreciate lego people floating around with them.  

     

    I bought eggcrate lighting panels from home depot...I think it was a little over $10 for a 2x4 ft piece and it can be cut to size with scissors.  I've since used the left overs to help anchor down some plants with limited roots until they have time to grow.

     

    Egg%20Crate%20-%20White_zpsjhljznb0.jpg

  5. What are you planning on growing? A Finnex Planted Plus would work for low light, but I suspect nearing the top of your budget.

    I tend to lean towards swords, but I don't have anything I absolutely have to have so I'm open to accommodating my lighting.  I'd like to keep it somewhat low tech, but want to be able to keep my options open for down the road.

     

    I also have a supply of anacharis growing in there to attempt to keep up with my goldies in another tank, so being able to have strong growth on that would be preferred.

  6. I've recently increased the plant load in my 40B planted tank, but the finnex stingray I currently have on it won't be enough now that have it all together.

     

    I'm going to move the stingray over to a different tank, so I don't really want to buy another one of the same to accommodate the lighting.  Any suggestions on a lower priced T5 LO lamp?  I definitely don't want to spend $150 on something I hadn't planned for ahead of time!

  7. Well, I don't have UV and I don't have green water. I also have subtropical sun, which is something totally different from northern sun.  The intensity is incredible.  One of my ponds gets 4-5 hours of full sun at midday.   I can take water out of the pond and let it sit for a few days and it turns bright green.  I can pour this bucket of green water into a small stock tank pond and the water turns green.  The next day it is clear.  

     

    Whether or not you have green water depends primarily on the ecosystem that establishes in your pond/tank.  I lucked out and established an ecosystem in which plants, surface growing algae, and the assorted microbes in the filter dominate the green water algae.  There are some pond keeper's experiments that treated cultures of green water with water from assorted ponds.  The water from the ponds which never had green water cleared the green water cultures.  That suggests that something in the ecosystem produces a substance toxic to planktonic algae.  It would be interesting if someone would isolate that hypothetical substance and determined what produced  it.  They could make a fortune selling it.

     

    Algae can't grow in complete darkness, but I don't believe that the  light intensity has much to do with green water.  

    This exactly.  With the right conditions its totally possible to go *mostly* algae free.  You'll likely still have some in your tank, even with clear water, but it might be so minute it doesn't matter.  Once I discovered "photo inhibition" I honestly found that the more sunlight the better IF you have live plants.  Increased sun + natural co2(I don't supplement Co2) + healthy planted environment = less algae.  The plants will also grow faster and outcompete the algae essentially starving it.  Look up "photoinhibition" and you'll be able to find what time of day is the best time of day for the sun to fall directly on your tank.  I *think* for photoinhibition of algae, direct midday sunlight is best, but don't quote me on that.

     

    I have a natural planted tank in 100% direct sunlight and have nice, clear water.  I don't have a mechanical filter or lamp on it and supplement with oxygen (that bubbles through some biomedia) only at the moment (with the occasional dose of prime when adding fresh water.)  My pond outside is also in pretty direct sunlight all day, and the water is crystal clear as well.  The only thing I really had to do there was to increase the oxygen level in the water itself, and add some plants. 

     

    I do have to add though, I personally love the natural look, so for me a little algae is totally welcome. 

  8. Thanks for filling out the form. Please test your tap water parameters when you get a chance.

    Also, you say your nitrite is 0.2 but the API nitrite card doesn't have a color for 0.2. Do you mean 0.25? :idont

    How much salt do you add with each WC and why do you add salt with each WC? Goldfish are freshwater fish and do not need salt on a regular basis.

    OK, so now for the tail. I think you answered your own question if you saw the other fish biting it. How long have these fish been together?

    It's possible that the fish is biting because he is acting territorial. We generally recommend 20 gallons per fish and you have about 20 gallons for 3 fish. They could be feeling crowded.

    Did the biting occur during feeding time? :idont

    For now I would keep them separated until we can hopefully figure out a solution. :D

    Growing up my parents bred platys and we'd see this nipping behavior fairly commonly between two males. If they're possibly already acting territorial because of tank size, it could be aggravated by the sex of your fish as well.

    Could you get a photo of the other two fish?

  9. Hello!

    I don't have any advice to offer on your fish, but wanted to touch on the cave ornament that was brought up. I believe that is the same one sold at Petco, in which case I'd check the insides of it. I found that it had some really sharp bits where the seam between the two halves is on the inside. I had to sand a bunch off of one I had after it cut one of my fish.

    Also - if you still want to buy (I see you've already added bio-stars), I just bought filter media on amazon this morning and found some really good prices. It was around $3.50 or $4 for both the sponge and bio rings.

    Hope they get better quickly!

  10. I personally like the API Master Test Kit (drops) better than the Seachem kits and I would never use any test strips. As Shakaho (and Alex) have said, the meters that really work are quite expensive.

    As for your filter media question...what kind of filter(s) do you have?

    I have Aquaclear filters and use:

    Fluval Sponges

    Marineland Rite-Size Blue Filter padding

    Fluval Biomax

    I have Aqueon Quietflow filters, but one is about to die so I'm actually looking into new a new filter. I haven't decided on that yet, but I'll still need stuff for the quietflow. I bought a couple boxes of carbon cartridge before when that was all I was using, so I'm still using them until they're gone then don't want to buy anymore. I've since added Seachem matrix, purigen and some filter floss.

  11. You have a good point about meter calibrating. They probably do need to be done fairly regularly. I did see a newer product that suction cups to the glass in the water and you leave it there. It apparently tests 5600 times a month and will alert you if any concerns arise. It wasn't horribly expensive considering, but if I remember correctly it only tests pH, ammonia, temperature and something else I don't remember, but not nitrates/nitrites. Too bad though :(

    My pH never changes and temperature is pretty consistent year round too, so it'd be a waste for me for that one.

  12. Hello!

    I know to each their own, but curious about everyone's thoughts anyway.

    I'm about ready to order some new products - which include a new test kit since my API is about dead on products (and I'm down 2 test tubes anyway thanks to a 2 year old) but I've been recently looking at test equipment vs. drops/strips kits.

    Has anyone used water quality testing equipment? I've seen some digital ones that have pretty decent reviews, and although a little pricier than the kits, I'd think they'd be more accurate purely on the reduction of human error using them, no?

    If you have one, which is it and would you buy it again?

    Thanks!

    - I'm also needing new filter media, so on an aside, if you have something you hands down stand behind, I'd love to know what. :) I'd like to get away from the carbon cartriges.

  13. I want to see a picture of your pond and bog filter! I have no idea of how to work with metal. How do you put a spout in a galvanized tub?

    I don't know how I didn't see this, sorry!

    Anyways, not the greatest shots but you'll get the idea. I drilled a hole in the tub with a diamond bit, then used tin snips to clip it to the size I wanted. Used a dremel to sand it down a bit to make sure there weren't any sharp edges. Fit a bulkhead fitting through the hole and sealed it with aquarium sealant. It has bee balm, chocolate mint & cherry tomatoes growing in it, even green ones on there. I took the strawberries out - they didn't like quite that much water.

    IMAG0934_zpse269c310.jpg

    I think I've shown you the pond before, but here it is again. Its an above ground with a 18" x 20" window in the front.

    IMAG0791_zps23a04576.jpg

  14. I'm very sorry you are dealing with this. It does not make fish keeping fun. :( You said they get dropsy a lot -- are they ever healthy and swimming normally?

    Thanks :) It definitely makes it more work than enjoyment. They definitely are healthy and swimming normally more often than not. Prior to this year they would have problems 1-2 times a year. This year has been worse, but they're still happy when doing well.

    I moved them to the 55gal a few days ago, but symptoms were already showing. I figured they were just getting too big for the 36gal and were dirtying the water too quickly and becoming stressed.

  15. You are a little underfiltered. You should have 10x the tank size, so your filters together should have a flow rate of 550 gallons per hour. Yours are doing 400 gallons per hour.

    Have you ever tried losing the charcoal and adding biomedia to the filter? That can help you maintain our cycle, and charcoal isn't necessary. Many people here use a combination of just mechanical filtration with biomedia such as ceramic rings or plastic bioballs. Mechanical filtration goes first, so for example, in my canisters I have a porous sponge on the bottom layer, to get the big stuff, then filter floss in the middle to catch the finer stuff, and ceramic media is on the top for the beneficial bacteria. I rinse these things when I clean the filter, but I don't change them. When I've used HOBs, I use essential the same setup.

    Not only is it cheaper to skip the charcoal, it's potentially healthier as old charcoal can leach nasties.

    If thats the case then yes, my tank is cycled since all I did was a water change, the media is not new nor was it cleaned, I only rinsed the gunk out in the tank water I was removing. I'm sure the nitrates are zero due to fresh water treated with prime.

    I honestly, am only using the filter pads since I have them until they are gone. I did learned here from one of the mods that they weren't necessary so as soon as they're gone, I won't be using them anymore, since you're totally right that they're expensive!

    For biomedia, does seachem matrix not count? I was under the impression it worked as biomedia in your filter. If not then I will definitely have to get some.

    I am definitely underfiltered right now, but they were in 36 gallons with the 400GPH filtration, and now that they are in the 55gal tank, I have the 400GPH filtration and I am building another filter which will add another few hundred gph filtration to the mix. Could being under-filtered really be that big of an issue over a short period of time when the water quality is still good?

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