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Reds12

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Posts posted by Reds12

  1. Hi, sorry my internet went out yesterday while they were adding in new fibre-optic lines :(

    Anyways, yes I did up the salt content to 0.3% :) I do also have another filter on the way that should be here today or tomorrow, and am currently looking at some larger tanks. What would you suggest for a minimum? I've heard 55gal for what I already have, but down the road once all of this is under control I may want to add some more, so based off of that what should I look for?

    I decided to do another water change last night, and they seem a bit happier again this morning.

  2. Two and a half weeks ago I posted about my two goldies being sick. Link to the old post: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/117038-sick-fish/

    Basically I followed the advice given to clean and bleach the tank and filter with a 1:19 solution, and to do a full 100% water change. I also did a mild methylene-blue bath, and treated with kanamycin and furan-2. I wasn't sure what was going on, but they were going downhill quickly and I needed to do something. Surprisingly, I woke up the next day to some hungry fish :) They improved over the next few days, and I thought we were through this. I did continue the full suggested course of antibiotics.

    This morning I got up to them not themselves again. Same symptoms as before are present, minus the grey scales, and one of them looks like he's starting to develop pop-eye. They're currently sitting at the bottom of the tank, side by side, almost like they are pouting. :( These are usually very happy, social, lively and playful fish, so I know something is up. I'm assuming whatever it was before wasn't cleared up, or has come back.

    Should I just do what I did the first time again? Other suggestions to kick this? I don't want them to continuously get sick, get better, get sick etc etc.

    Help please?!

    · * Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0.25 PPM

    · * Nitrite Level(Tank) = 0 PPM

    · * Nitrate level(Tank) = 0 ppm

    · * Ammonia Level(Tap) = 1.0 PPM

    · * Nitrite Level(Tap) = 0 ppm

    · * Nitrate level(Tap) = 0 ppm

    · * Ph Level, Tank = 7.6

    · * Ph Level, Tap = 7.6

    - API freshwater master test kit

    - Water temp 75 degrees (natural room temp)

    - 36 gallon tank running for 3 years

    - Aqueon quietflow 30 filter - adding an additional filter

    - Water changes every weeks, approx. 30% (sooner if water readings indicate one is needed)

    - 2 veiltail orandas @ 2.5 inches, 3 red minor tetras @ 1 inch,

    - Water additives include – prime, salt

    - Food = goldfish get fed granules - small meals few times a day, tropical flakes & algae wafers once a day

    - No new fish

    - Medications = methylene-blue, kanamycin, furan-2

    - Goldfish were treated for dropsy with maracyn-oxy 3 years ago when we first got them – in a hospital tank, given the

    above medication about 2 weeks ago

    - lethargic, depressed, pop-eye, white on wen (possible wen growth)

    I can get photos if absolutely needed, but they look the same as before aside from the eye thing.

  3. I currently have a self-made patio pond, but I want to upgrade the size of it. I thought I wanted to put a viewing window in it, and have seen koi show tanks with windows, but the price is crazy!

    Any suggestion on creative solutions that will be fairly cheap?

  4. i would also like to mention that the ph is going down in the tank.

    The ph of our tap water seems to vary slightly. There are a few different water sources here so our tap water doesn't always come from the same reserve, Usually it doesn't matter since I'm only doing a partial water change, but with a 100% change its obvious.

    Is this not good? I did mix it the fresh tank water into their water a little at a time over a few hours thinking it would help acclimatize them before moving them. I'd love other suggestions if there is a better way of doing this!

    I had planned on doing the 100% water change in the morning when I got up, and only did a partial change that night, but they looked so much better in the morning. I'm actually now wondering if the white fluff looking stuff is new wen growth. Either way, the antibiotics/methylene-blue seemed to really do wonders for the sores on their body, and how they're feeling. They're currently happily swimming around and playing.

    What should I do from here now though? I don't want to give them treatments or anything they don't need, but I also don't want to say "they look happy" and just give them clean, fresh water and then have them turn around and go right back to where they were a few days ago.

  5. Thank you for replying!

    Two quick things, first I've had them in clean, fresh water for two days, but this just popped up today out of nowhere. The other thing, I didn't specify, the photos above are of the same fish. I couldn't get a shot of the other one that wasn't blurry, but there is some of that white stuff elsewhere, not just wen. That is where I first noticed it for sure, and where it is the most prominent.

    I'll filter the meds out though overnight, and start salting in the morning. I'm not 100% convinced either since I definitely don't know much about the illness. I've always had fairly healthy fish, so this is all new to me.

  6. I didn't want to wait too long so I've gone ahead and tried to figure out the best that I can.

    - I did a 30min bath in methylene blue, kanamycin, furan-2, and salt mixture

    - added tank dosages off the bottle to the aquarium of the kanamycin and furan-2, removed the carbon filter, added an air stone,

    - temperature is at 75 degrees, left ph alone (its at 7.5ish), ammonia, nitrate and nitrite are at 0

    I plan to start with 2 baths a day if tolerated and will adjust from there and about 20% water change daily. If they seem to be getting any better I was going to add a small amount of Epsom salts as this seemed to help immensely when I treated them for dropsy.

    Any thoughts??

  7. I followed all of the above advice, and my goldfish are still kicking, but they now have a white mucus-y film on them. From what I've read and looked at, this is possibly columnaris?

    I've brought the water temp down to just in case until I can confirm this, and have separated each fish into their own small tank to give each the best chance they can. I think I'm supposed to get furan-2 and kanamycin for antibiotics, is this correct? I'm not sure if there is anything else I can do?

    Water parameters for tap water are the same as above - tank parameters are as follows

    ph - 7.2

    ammonia - 0.25 ---> still working on bringing this down since there is ammonia in our tap water, but its going in the right direction.

    nitrite - 0

    nitrate - 0

    temp - 74.5

    I purchased prime, so had used that for the new water, and have added an airstone. I did lower the water level since they seemed tired going up so far to get air, I don't know if this was a good or bad idea, but I thought it would conserve some of their energy at least.

    What else should I be doing?

    top_zps5e10d0bd.jpgfront_zps3fd474d7.jpg

  8. Wow, excellent! I have everything but the metromeds so I'll have to get some.

    I keep sand at the bottom of my tank. My one goldie really likes to sift through it and carry mouthfuls to the top, drop it, and chase it down. I have a new bag though so I can just toss it. When I bought the prime I was told it was too strong to use in a small tank on a regular basis and to use it when adding new fish or doing a large water change. I also have a box of filter cartridges so I'll just toss this one too.

    Thanks so much! I appreciate the advice :)

    Is there anything special I should feed them? Or are the pellets ok?

  9. I don't think so, I've never heard of it. I do really want a large tank so I'll have to use a smaller one for now and wait. A 55 gal would be great.

    I've also been tossing the idea of building one around in my head. My dad used to breed fish and built his own tanks from scratch, so enlisting his experience might be the way to go.

  10. I posted yesterday about some marks on my goldies - http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/117038-sick-fish/

    Afterwards I did a 50% water change, changed filter cartridge, added stresscoat and moved the CAE out and into another tank. The CAE didn't like the move and died overnight.

    I noticed some changes with one of the goldies - the one who is redder than normal around the base of his pectoral fins. He's developed many red streaks in his tail and some marks on his body. Could this be septicemia? They seem much happier now that the CAE is gone and the water has been changed, but still not their normal selves.

    The only think I can think of to treat this would be medicated food. What else would/should I do? Do you also think this is, or do you have other suggestions as to what it could be? I'm also stumped as to the levels increasing after a water change. Only thing I can think is I did it wrong yesterday as I tested it twice this morning with the same results.

    · * Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0.5ppm

    · * Nitrite Level(Tank) = 0.25ppm

    · * Nitrate level(Tank) = 20ppm

    · * Ammonia Level(Tap) = 1.0 PPM

    · * Nitrite Level(Tap) = 0 ppm

    · * Nitrate level(Tap) = 0 ppm

    · * Ph Level, Tank = 8.0

    · * Ph Level, Tap = 7.6

    - API freshwater master test kit

    - Water temp 75 degrees (natural room temp)

    - 36 gallon tank running for 3 years

    - Aqueon quietflow 30 filter

    - Water changes last done yesterday, approx 50%

    - 2 veiltail orandas @ 2.5 inches, 3 red minor tetras @ 1 inch

    - Water additives include – API stresscoat, API stresszyme, aquarium salt (only stresscoat at last water change)

    - Food = goldfish granules, tropical flakes, algae wafers and sometimes veggies – once a day

    - No new fish

    - No medications

    - Goldfish were treated for dropsy with maracyn-oxy 3 years ago when we first got them – in a hospital tank, no treatment since

    - Greyish color under the tip of the scales on one of the goldfish, a little red around the pectoral fins of the other, ​lethargic, stay at the bottom unless stimulated then act completely normal

    red streaks on tail, IMAG0047_zpsd352c5c9.jpgIMAG0048_zpse29902d7.jpgIMAG0049_zps5fb80cee.jpg

  11. I was looking at my tank today when doing the water change etc, and I'm wondering about undergravel filters. I have a tall tank so regular filters don't go low enough to clean the water at the bottom. Would it be worth it to get an undergravel, or are they no good?

    Also, I'm now concerned about something else potentially going on. My CAE died overnight after the move. He was in the same water a in the tank since I didn't have time to prime it, but his belly was all bloated. It wasn't like that when I went to bed. What can cause bloating to come on that quickly?

  12. I have two veiltail orandas that I need to move into a new tank. I'd like to have a 55ish gallon tank, but since this is a last minute necessity, it wasn't really planned for money-wise.

    Other thank craigslist which I've scoured for hours, any tips on where to find tanks for cheap? I'd like to have one in the next couple of days.

    TYIA!

  13. Thank you!

    I've moved the other fish for now, and if I should get a larger filter, I think I'll buy a larger tank for my goldies as well.

    Yes, the ammonia is normal for our water. California apparently follows the new suggestion to use chloramine (chlorine and ammonia compound) instead of just chlorine. I can use filtered water from now on which should have a zero or almost zero level.

    I'm very attached to these particular fish, so I appreciate your help!!! Thanks everyone!

  14. None of these fish are new. I've had them for 3 years and they've been together the whole time. Could this pop up so much later from adding them in? I'm definitely open to treating for it, I'm just curious why it would become an issue 3 years after being placed together.

    Also, here's a top view. His scales have always look like that ebc9faf0-2e67-4f22-94ca-14da5aec83fa_zpsafter he had dropsy, but he's been looked at by a doctor and he said that they were fine.

  15. No, dark spots on the first one have not been there. And I suppose it is possible the algae eater is going after them at night or something. They've always been cordial, even sharing feeding off the same algae wafer at the same time, but I honestly haven't noticed any change at night, so it could be.

    The salt I add every water change. I do a few TBSP. It says to add 1 rounded tbsp per 5 gallons, but I only add as much as the amount of gallons I'm changing, not the amount in the tank. Should I be doing enough for the full tank everytime?

    Stress zyme I do as well every water change.

  16. I did something wrong the first time because I retested and its more like 20 ppm, maybe a touch more for the nitrates.

    No, I have not treated for flukes. I've never seen any signs of them, so I didn't think it was nec. Is this something that should be done periodically regardless?

  17. I have 2 veil tail orandas that I've had for over 3 years suddenly not acting like themselves. They normally are very excitable, but are acting quite lethargic. I'll come into the room and notice them just sitting at the bottom of the tank, not just hanging out swimming low, but literally just sitting on the bottom. If stimulated, they perk up a little, but no where near as much as normal. I've noticed on one of them there is a spot that looks almost raw and has grey spots underneath the scales. He also seems to have some places on his tail that look less opaque than normal. Its not colored, or different looking other than the fact that it looks less "see-through."The other one looks to be a little red around the pectoral fins. He's always been pinkish there, but its darker than normal. They are also eating less than normal. Any idea what could be going on?

    · * Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0.25 PPM

    · * Nitrite Level(Tank) = 0 PPM

    · * Nitrate level(Tank) = 5.0 ppm

    · * Ammonia Level(Tap) = 1.0 PPM

    · * Nitrite Level(Tap) = 0 ppm

    · * Nitrate level(Tap) = 0 ppm

    · * Ph Level, Tank = 8.0 I’ve been having trouble getting it down…

    · * Ph Level, Tap = 7.6

    - API freshwater master test kit

    - Water temp 75 degrees (natural room temp)

    - 36 gallon tank running for 3 years

    - Aqueon quietflow 30 filter

    - Water changes every 2 weeks, approx. 30% - last done about 2 weeks ago

    - 2 veiltail orandas @ 2.5 inches, 3 red minor tetras @ 1 inch, 1 chinese algae eater @ 2 inch (very mellow, non- aggressive like they can be)

    - Water additives include – API stresscoat, API stresszyme, aquarium salt

    - Food = goldfish granules, tropical flakes, algae wafers and sometimes veggies – once a day

    - No new fish

    - No medications

    - Goldfish were treated for dropsy with maracyn-oxy 3 years ago when we first got them – in a hospital tank, no treatment since

    - Greyish color under the tip of the scales on one of the goldfish, a little red around the pectoral fins of the other, lethargic, stay at the bottom unless stimulated then act completely normal

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