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Reds12

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Everything posted by Reds12

  1. I don't think so, I've never heard of it. I do really want a large tank so I'll have to use a smaller one for now and wait. A 55 gal would be great. I've also been tossing the idea of building one around in my head. My dad used to breed fish and built his own tanks from scratch, so enlisting his experience might be the way to go.
  2. I posted yesterday about some marks on my goldies - http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/117038-sick-fish/ Afterwards I did a 50% water change, changed filter cartridge, added stresscoat and moved the CAE out and into another tank. The CAE didn't like the move and died overnight. I noticed some changes with one of the goldies - the one who is redder than normal around the base of his pectoral fins. He's developed many red streaks in his tail and some marks on his body. Could this be septicemia? They seem much happier now that the CAE is gone and the water has been changed, but still not their normal selves. The only think I can think of to treat this would be medicated food. What else would/should I do? Do you also think this is, or do you have other suggestions as to what it could be? I'm also stumped as to the levels increasing after a water change. Only thing I can think is I did it wrong yesterday as I tested it twice this morning with the same results. · * Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0.5ppm · * Nitrite Level(Tank) = 0.25ppm · * Nitrate level(Tank) = 20ppm · * Ammonia Level(Tap) = 1.0 PPM · * Nitrite Level(Tap) = 0 ppm · * Nitrate level(Tap) = 0 ppm · * Ph Level, Tank = 8.0 · * Ph Level, Tap = 7.6 - API freshwater master test kit - Water temp 75 degrees (natural room temp) - 36 gallon tank running for 3 years - Aqueon quietflow 30 filter - Water changes last done yesterday, approx 50% - 2 veiltail orandas @ 2.5 inches, 3 red minor tetras @ 1 inch - Water additives include – API stresscoat, API stresszyme, aquarium salt (only stresscoat at last water change) - Food = goldfish granules, tropical flakes, algae wafers and sometimes veggies – once a day - No new fish - No medications - Goldfish were treated for dropsy with maracyn-oxy 3 years ago when we first got them – in a hospital tank, no treatment since - Greyish color under the tip of the scales on one of the goldfish, a little red around the pectoral fins of the other, ​lethargic, stay at the bottom unless stimulated then act completely normal red streaks on tail,
  3. I was looking at my tank today when doing the water change etc, and I'm wondering about undergravel filters. I have a tall tank so regular filters don't go low enough to clean the water at the bottom. Would it be worth it to get an undergravel, or are they no good? Also, I'm now concerned about something else potentially going on. My CAE died overnight after the move. He was in the same water a in the tank since I didn't have time to prime it, but his belly was all bloated. It wasn't like that when I went to bed. What can cause bloating to come on that quickly?
  4. I didn't know about petco sale, I'll keep my eye out! I'm going to go with temp tank, thanks
  5. I have two veiltail orandas that I need to move into a new tank. I'd like to have a 55ish gallon tank, but since this is a last minute necessity, it wasn't really planned for money-wise. Other thank craigslist which I've scoured for hours, any tips on where to find tanks for cheap? I'd like to have one in the next couple of days. TYIA!
  6. Thank you! I've moved the other fish for now, and if I should get a larger filter, I think I'll buy a larger tank for my goldies as well. Yes, the ammonia is normal for our water. California apparently follows the new suggestion to use chloramine (chlorine and ammonia compound) instead of just chlorine. I can use filtered water from now on which should have a zero or almost zero level. I'm very attached to these particular fish, so I appreciate your help!!! Thanks everyone!
  7. None of these fish are new. I've had them for 3 years and they've been together the whole time. Could this pop up so much later from adding them in? I'm definitely open to treating for it, I'm just curious why it would become an issue 3 years after being placed together. Also, here's a top view. His scales have always look like that after he had dropsy, but he's been looked at by a doctor and he said that they were fine.
  8. No, dark spots on the first one have not been there. And I suppose it is possible the algae eater is going after them at night or something. They've always been cordial, even sharing feeding off the same algae wafer at the same time, but I honestly haven't noticed any change at night, so it could be. The salt I add every water change. I do a few TBSP. It says to add 1 rounded tbsp per 5 gallons, but I only add as much as the amount of gallons I'm changing, not the amount in the tank. Should I be doing enough for the full tank everytime? Stress zyme I do as well every water change.
  9. I did something wrong the first time because I retested and its more like 20 ppm, maybe a touch more for the nitrates. No, I have not treated for flukes. I've never seen any signs of them, so I didn't think it was nec. Is this something that should be done periodically regardless?
  10. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b565/stacie1/side_zps2ec39ad8.jpg http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b565/stacie1/fins_zps256d585e.jpg Sorry for being slow, was having trouble getting my images to upload.
  11. I have 2 veil tail orandas that I've had for over 3 years suddenly not acting like themselves. They normally are very excitable, but are acting quite lethargic. I'll come into the room and notice them just sitting at the bottom of the tank, not just hanging out swimming low, but literally just sitting on the bottom. If stimulated, they perk up a little, but no where near as much as normal. I've noticed on one of them there is a spot that looks almost raw and has grey spots underneath the scales. He also seems to have some places on his tail that look less opaque than normal. Its not colored, or different looking other than the fact that it looks less "see-through."The other one looks to be a little red around the pectoral fins. He's always been pinkish there, but its darker than normal. They are also eating less than normal. Any idea what could be going on? · * Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0.25 PPM · * Nitrite Level(Tank) = 0 PPM · * Nitrate level(Tank) = 5.0 ppm · * Ammonia Level(Tap) = 1.0 PPM · * Nitrite Level(Tap) = 0 ppm · * Nitrate level(Tap) = 0 ppm · * Ph Level, Tank = 8.0 I’ve been having trouble getting it down… · * Ph Level, Tap = 7.6 - API freshwater master test kit - Water temp 75 degrees (natural room temp) - 36 gallon tank running for 3 years - Aqueon quietflow 30 filter - Water changes every 2 weeks, approx. 30% - last done about 2 weeks ago - 2 veiltail orandas @ 2.5 inches, 3 red minor tetras @ 1 inch, 1 chinese algae eater @ 2 inch (very mellow, non- aggressive like they can be) - Water additives include – API stresscoat, API stresszyme, aquarium salt - Food = goldfish granules, tropical flakes, algae wafers and sometimes veggies – once a day - No new fish - No medications - Goldfish were treated for dropsy with maracyn-oxy 3 years ago when we first got them – in a hospital tank, no treatment since - Greyish color under the tip of the scales on one of the goldfish, a little red around the pectoral fins of the other, lethargic, stay at the bottom unless stimulated then act completely normal
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