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Everything posted by marka83

  1. I read on a few post that their goldfish love red leaf lettuce, so I picked up some from the organic section at the store. I rinsed it in warm water and let it cool then put it in the tank. They try to eat it but had some difficulty ripping it as they tried to bite it. so I tried to blanch it and it's much softer but they still have a hard time ripping it. They are new fish... maybe they get better with practice? Or should I try a different preparation method? Different greens that are softer? Blanched spinach? Thanks.
  2. Lost a bottle of food to my roommate's bi-poodle...
  3. I have four with plans to migrate two to another tank or all of them if I see any of the activity you warned about. I think now that if they were bigger they might try to suck on the goldfish, because, although it was a different species, the algae eater was big. What I saw it doing to that goldfish was terrible. I don't want that to even begin to happen to mine. Thanks for the heads up!
  4. I've seen this happen but with different species of algae eaters. To avoid this issue I was told to use siamese algae eaters. I've been watching them closely. The algae eaters are considerably smaller and tend to avoid the goldfish. Have you or someone you know had that issue with this species specifically? If so I'll need to make some changes.
  5. I've read the same. The potential range for the co2 levels even when the checker is green is pretty wide. It could be too low or too high and still show green. I use as a guide too. I have a feeling my levels are a little low because I have some algae issues. My growth is good, not crazy. My algae eaters probably mask the problem too.
  6. Also, if anyone is thinking about pressurized CO2, get it dialed in before you add livestock. Drop checkers (the cone on the right side glass) are not real time indicators of co2 levels. Being aggressive with co2 will result in gassed fish. Changes should be made very incrementally. Once you make a change wait several hours for the checker to equalize with the water.
  7. Eco-complete below regular black gravel. The gravel is pretty big so the fish can't dig... yet. But most of the plants are pretty well rooted, if I look under the tank I can see roots spreading around. The parva aren't rooted well though. I might pull them out so I can have clear foreground space for feeding.
  8. Thanks! The plants take some patience. My first planted tank. The plants melt considerably, so I had to be patient and not freak out when the old leaves melted. The fertilization method requires weekly wc so it works well with regular goldfish water management. This would be considered a high light tank with, other than the swords, somewhat low light plants. Hence they turn redish. The red myrio grows pretty fast, before I got the fist I had two plus feet of that plant growing along the surface. The fish have tried to eat a few plants but don't seem to like them much. Lucky so far, but they're feisty guys so we'll see.
  9. New planted goldfish tank. Pressurized co2. Two T5s 6500k, EI ferts. Let plants root for two months before adding goldfish. Also have a few Siamese Algae Eaters.
  10. Thank for the responses. It seems reasonable, and as your experiences have confirmed, and logical that "cheap" lights can provide adequate lighting for freshwater plants. I'll look into this immediately. Thanks!
  11. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368 This helps explain the importance of PAR. I get it now...
  12. Hello all, I have been reading through lighting post, research articles, and information on the internet and I am pretty confused about lighting. Well... I have a fairly good idea of the general terms, requirements, etc. but I am unclear as to how I can achieve my goals. I am planning a planted goldfish tank. Plants will require low/moderate lighting. The tank is a 40 gal breeder 17 inches deep. I want to keep my cost in the mid-range area of no more than $150. I am open to T8, T5, and LED lighting. According to my research, I need somewhere around 2.5-3 watts per gallon BUT I've seen folks on this site suggest that the depth of the tank is also an important consideration in lighting. If I don't need to spend extra money on higher wattage lights then I am all for it. I'm guessing I should be less concerned with actinic lights? Seems like these are for coral in need of blue light and less of a concern for freshwater setups? There are a bunch of light choices on ebay, if anyone here has a recommendation I would greatly appreciate it. If you think I should shell out more money for those Marineland lights, make a case and I might take the dive lol. Thanks y'all
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