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Everything posted by marka83

  1. Thanks! How did you do that it looks way better!
  2. I call this part of my tank the jungle... I am going to change my filter setup because the out flow of water from the hob pushes my swords forward and they are completely shading others... my shubunkin likes to disappear down in there and hunt.
  3. Caught this over active fish finally... the flash went off unintentionally but it made it hilarious.
  4. I agree with all this advice. Luckily plants aren't crazy expensive when replacing just one if two lost from trail and error. Depending on your holistic setup your needs for certain nutrients will change. I've been changing lighting and co2 levels in my tank because I have algae issues popping up and my growth is were I want it. So I want to slow things down. But in the process I lost all my red myrio, which was the fastest growing plant in my tank. Depending on the plants you keep, they should be pretty resilient to trail and error. I have a few different types of crypts, Amazon swords, and anubias coffeeolia. They all took the change well...
  5. That's tough. Hate losing plants. Beautiful tank and fish. Incredibly vibrant colors. Living art.
  6. There is one three to four inch shubunkin and I want to add one more.
  7. The main tank has had two rounds of prazi as directed on the bottle. There are no signs of health issues with any other fish, which are one shubunkin and two siamese algae eaters (which are leaving once I can get them out). The shubunkin has never showed signs of any health issue. Seems like the black moor was susceptible to something in my tank. I want to get another shubunkin, possibly from rain garden since I'm on the west coast, but if I spend $100+ on a fish with shipping I want to ensure the health of my tank. I understand there is no way to rid the tank of every pathogen. So I guess best practice will be my quarantine. It will allow the next fish plenty of time to stabilize and have the best immune system before entering my tank...
  8. Are you dosing three times a week macros and three times a week micros or have you modified it? 3x macros 3x micors.... my tank is high light with pressurized co2, so I follow the EI dosing schedule as it was intended, but I just dose less NO3 since (1) goldfish can be sensitive to high nitrates and (2) goldfish produce enough waste to add to the nitrate count by themselves I do the same. Scaled back n03 from 1/2 teaspoon to a 1/8, with fish bioload keeps it below 20ppm.
  9. Are you dosing three times a week macros and three times a week micros or have you modified it?
  10. *slowly changing my mind as I have coffee and watch my shubunkin poop her little heart out* lol
  11. All this is true. The biofilter is dynamic, feeding and other factors can change the bioload, etc. Yet according to my ongoing test, a heavily planted tank, not overstocked, pressurized co2 at less than 30ppm, ferts, proper lighting, and proper filtration can maintain a healthy aquarium environment for at least two weeks. I wouldn't recommend it as a best practice, I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner, but if you are an experienced keeper with a well established tank and monitor the tank properly I think it works. If any of those factors are not optimal (overstocked, tank too small, filtration is too weak, biofilter is underdeveloped, tank is too sparsely planted) then this will probably not work. I'm basically arguing for and testing the possibility of a sustainable ecosystem that can provide a healthy environment for goldfish for at least two weeks. And please don't confuse my test for poor maintenance. My fish are regularly feed, tank is clean, walls are scraped, plants are pruned, etc. That's probably another factor too, decaying plant matter. It's important to remove dying and damaged leaves so the decayed plants don't contribute to the organic waste already produced by goldfish. I won't be able to do another test till for a week because I need to do a big water change before switching to pps-pro. Thanks for your thoughts so far. Very thought provoking. You all brought up some points and variables I didn't think of!
  12. From what I read, plants take up ammonia and nitrates. Now the ammonia in a non planted tank is handled by a good stable biofilter, along with nitrites, but the nitrates are left lingering requiring water changes. In a planted tank, these nitrates are another source of food along with carbon, Potassium, and trace elements. Also, whereas water changes in a sparsely planted or non planted tank allow for the substrate to be vacuumed, it's not possible or practical in a heavily planted tank. Poop falls to the gravel bed where some gets removed from the water through filtration and the rest disintegrates into the gravel bed. The gravel bed is turned over by my shubunkin and two siamese algae eaters who have to this point escaped my food trap to get em out lol along with a collection of mystery snails.
  13. I figured I'd be advised to continue weekly water changes. I am no expert, and I value the experience of tenured keepers. I've only tested a modified schedule once. Basically I cut my light, ferts, and co2 in half with a shorter photo period. I ran the tank for a week. Then I tested the water every other day till the end of week two, where I did a 50-60% water change. The test continued to show zero ammonia and nitrites and a stable amount of nitrates, about 10-20ppm. As I understand, water changes do a couple of things: remove toxins and remineralize water column. In a heavily planted tank, some of those toxins are being used by the plants and nitrifying bacteria or just one or the other. The fertilization method provides a constant source of macro and micro nutrients. So are we simply suggesting large weekly water changes in a planted tank because that's the usual practice? Or are there reasons why weekly as opposed to say biweekly water changes are still necessary? Do goldfish produce more waste than a heavily planted tank and bio filter can handle? I look forward to your responses and thank you for you input so far. These have been questions I've been wondering about for a while.
  14. Hello all, I am switching my fertilization method from EI (estimative index) to PPS-Pro. No problems, I have had excellent growth with EI dosing but want to scale back on the nutrient excess and mandatory weekly water changes to reset the nutrient load. I could tweak the EI doses, which I have to regulate nitrates, but I feel better having a standard schedule to follow. Anyone here using PPS-Pro in a planted goldfish tank? Did you have to tweak anything to keep the nitrates at a reasonable level?
  15. If I had a basement with a drain in the floor...
  16. Any preventative treatment for the main tank I can do? It's heavily planted.
  17. Almost a week of prazi with no change then four doses of furan as directed. Then I reintroduced him to the main tank, which had two doses of prazi. He was ok initially. Then went south pretty fast. Feels like he was immuno compromised in some way. Maybe I should kept him in the qt tank longer after antibacterial treatment and introduced tank water slowly? Just hated the idea of having him in the qt tank for so long.
  18. He fell ill again after a week or so. Started bottom sitting again but he was eating. All other fish were normal. He looked like he had white patches on his scales. Not growths but discoloration. I was planning to take him to a guy I trust at my lfs but he passed away last night. Still scratching my head on this one.
  19. These responses have been making me laugh. Awesome stuff.
  20. I'm using a ceramic diffuser I bought off eBay. Fluval one I think. Not too happy either. I sit it right under my powerhead so the co2 gets sucked into it and shot across the tank. Even then I still have plenty of bubbles reaching the surface.
  21. Yes. Added them a month or so ago. One black moor and one shubunkin. They don't eat my plants. I let the plants root well. They love spinach, so I give them some to fix their desire for veggies.
  22. I used that service for my tank when I started it. I did so because I was confused and overwhelmed with choices. I didn't know how many plants would be considered heavily planted for my tank size. So I figured I'd give it a shot and modify it as I grew more experienced. This is how the tank looks after a few months. Since then I removed the Java Moss but it's offspring are floating in my tank, I also got rid of the red myrio. I rearranged some of the mid ground too. This is a high light pressurized CO2 setup, so growth was fast. I also used EI dosing. It requires more water changes. If you want to reduce wc then there is an alternative method called PMDD or something like that. Supposedly there are people who never do wc with a heavily planted tank. The idea is that the fish and plants balance each other. We do water changes mainly to get rid of nitrates and re mineralize the water. If that's happening already then wc aren't necessary as the logic goes. Filtration requirements are still the same though.
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