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ryzilla

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Everything posted by ryzilla

  1. Dried soldier fly larva is readily available on Amazon. I wonder if that is viable option as opposed to buying the fluval brand.
  2. You can have 2 full grown fish easily. I would recommend a bare bottom for the tank to ensure you have the maximum volume of water and allow you to siphon waste easily . Also no large decoration that might make it hard for your fish to turn around. If you are diligent with water changes, that is weekly 50%, and manage your filter media waste regularly then you can increase the # of fish to 3. 4 adult fish with that tank dimension feels a bit to crowded.
  3. I have had these in all of my planted tanks. They will build little short tunnels in your substrate and should be visible against the glass. They are segmented and are oligochaeta just like the earthworms. They are not a pest. If it is out of control as in your filter has many per square inch then you are either overfeeding or not cleaning your substrate and filter media well enough. In sum there is no worries here. Enjoy the biodiversity! They are serving a purpose in your tank right now.
  4. I tend to stray away from chain stores. Many times their "premium" goldfish stock is ran on the same filtration system as the feeders. These fish should be kept separate since their purpose in aquaria is greatly different. The petsmart by me keeps all their goldfish on the same system. It is not uncommon to find their lion heads, fan tails, or what ever with louses on them. I just cant buy from this type of environment. Now if you wanted to buy mystery snails or shrimp I would say it is safe. I am not sure how many parasites that use invertebrates as hosts also consider fish hosts as well. Usually hosts are very specific. My opinion is stay away from big box. If you cant then quarantine and treat for parasites, fungus, and the like. Happy hunting.
  5. Bought one nerite for my 56g. Have 3 ranchus. They flipped him over all the time and eventually sucked him out. ;-( . $4 snack. My mystery snails are fairing off a lot better and are not picked on that much.
  6. My LFS sells 2" ranchus for $19.99 and they are OK quality and all orange. I bought the 3 I have from ECR and the color and quality is far superior than the LFS. With shipping I spent 3X's the price if the LFS and I got exactly what I wanted. There is a guy around 60 miles from me who imports from China and has a goldfish shop out of his house. He imports real nice 4" ranchus but asks $75 to $150 for them depending on the quality and color. To answer the OP those ranchus appear to be overpriced. BUT! If one of them caught your eye and you fell in love then it is worth it.
  7. After one day with no salt added yet there is some healing already. Water change coming tonight with the salt treatment. Sorry snails hope you don't mine.
  8. they will most likely grow back.. if there is no bleeding and no scratches in the dermis and you still want to treat with something. i would do no more than 0.1% salt and that will speed up he slime coat healing you can salt the whole tank, it's fine. keep 0.1% for 7 days, test for ammonia spike regularly & keep us updated with progress if he's meant to stay that colour, the same colour will grow back too. Thank you. I will pick up mortons pickling salt tomorrow and do a 0.1% for 7 days. There appears to be no scratches on the dermis and certainly no bleeding. Again, Cheers for the help. :-)
  9. just counted 8 scales on the bottom of the tank and there are likely a few more where the fish got caught. Guessing 12 - 15 scales total missing. On the other side the scales are transparent from scraping and nothing is lost. He lost maybe one or two on his back. Left side probably 12ish missing. I have had Oscars in much worse shape from fighting come back with no treatment, just great water conditions, but my love for Terrance (black ranchu) is like no other fish I have ever had. I am really sad here. I would love to just sit and watch him closely if you still believe this is more superficial. Thank you Helen.
  10. Scales on the bottom of the tank. Certainly some scales are missing and some are just damaged. There is no bleeding or fin damage. I have moved the rocks close together so there are no spaces to get caught.
  11. He is doing well swimming as fast as the others and eating what I put into the tank. He has some smaller injuries on his back and the other side but negligible compared to the above pictures. I have not contacted anyone but I know there will be a solution here soon. Thank you all.
  12. Have only had the fish for 2 weeks. They came from east coast ranchu and she is on top of her fish. I am not adding anything at the moment.
  13. Here are some pics. First pic is what his scales did look like. Sorry if the pics are not the best but they give you an idea.
  14. I do not have a QT. I would like to add salt directly to the main tank. Ill post a picture soon.
  15. Hi, One of my ranchus got himself/herself stuck in between to rocks. He was likely trying to pick on the mystery snail. He did sustain injury to his scales. He lost around a dozen or so scales. The skin does not appear to be broken but that does not mean it is not. Fish is eating and swimming well. Looking for a process to treat the water and prevent infection/fungus forming. Thank you Ammonia Level(Tank) - 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) - 15 * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - 7.5 ish * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API * Water temperature? 70 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 56 gallons 2 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 2 filters, Emperor 280 and Filter xp2 * How often do you change the water and how much? once a week 80% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? - 5 * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 and all 3ish inches/7.6 cm * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Stress Zym * What do you feed your fish and how often? Vegie flake, vitamin flake, shrimp sticks * Any new fish added to the tank? - no * Any medications added to the tank? - no * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. - Nothing * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? None * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? none
  16. You will be fine until you add another filter. Nothing is in the tank right; I am assuming it is new to the cycle. The primary function of your filter is not waste removal but water movement to get that O2 into your tank and ramp up that BB. Granted the media in your filter will also act as a nice breeding ground for BB.
  17. I had many planted tanks for years. I only used seachem fluorite. This being said I have no experience using it with goldfish and other members here can likely fill in the blanks regarding how goldies do with it. Having a planted tanks can either be very easy with low maintenance or very hard requiring high light and fertilizers along with CO2 injection. I have had both. Low maintenance is what I would suggest for goldies. This method of plant keeping only requires low light conditions with no fertilizers or CO2. There is a large array of plants in the low light category that are unappealing or can withstand goldies. When I start to add plants to my tank the only genus will be Anubias as these are durable hardy plants. There may be a potential to add a plant from the Echinodorus genus if I can find information that my goldies may not mess with it.
  18. Biofilm for sure. Does not necessarily mean your tank is out of balance or unhealthy. Many fish live in stagnant pools of water. The real question is what is creating the build up of protein in your tank. This protein is the output of decaying matter. Find the decaying matter and you solved the problem.
  19. I understand that it feels obvious but it may not be as obvious as it appears. You do you have a nice footprint on that tank and it has plenty of area on the bottom of your tank for settling matter. What is the size of your gravel, assuming you have some in your tank? What is the depth of the gravel? I'm concerned about bamboo creating detritus especially if it is growing rapidly. If it is growing rapidly then it should be pulling nutrients from your tank, not the opposite. Scan your tank and look for any root cause (no pun intended). These are just examples but I am sure most don't apply. Just throwing them out there. Prefilters clogged HOB not rinsed out with aquarium water Substrate to deep Substrate not vacuumed well Canisters left unchecked Overfeeding Decaying plant matter Decaying food Dead hidden fish or snails Dead root system in the substrate
  20. I would imagine that a new tank or a tank that is not fully cycled would be at the most risk of halting or slowing down the cycle due to a lower mass of BB required for a full cycle. Most drugs that get pulled off the market because of an adverse effect are the result of that adverse effect surfacing by an underlying cause. For example ephedrine was pulled off of the market because a young football player had a cardiac arrest that was triggered by the drug. It was determined later that the football player had an underlying heart issue where ephedrine had a terrible negative impact. What I am getting at is if you let the BGA get out of control and there is substantial mass of dying BGA followed by the treatment there will be an increase in decaying matter resulting in an ammonia spike. The underlying cause of the ammonia spike in this example is the quickly heightened amount of decaying matter. I am not saying what members here have reported are inaccurate. The reports of spikes in ammonia were true as a result of testing the water. But was the ammonia levels high because of a broken cycle or an increased amount of decaying matter?
  21. Here are just three that were quick to find. I'm sure if you dig deeper into the internet abyss you will find more. http://www.myfishtank.net/articles/blue-green-algae-article/ http://www.algone.com/articles/fish-health/antibiotics-for-aquariums http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatfishblog/2013/12/16/understanding-active-ingredients-antibacterial-aquarium-medications/#.UuMfTJXnaUk I actually prefer to consult actual research articles and books when it comes to meds as my first choice. In any case, one of the articles also indicate that erythromycin will likely kill the nitrogen cycle. So as that is a possibility, that is something to have to be figured into the planning, no? I am not against using this method, but I do think it's quite drastic. Jay, I'm also confused about sugar, but may be the fish will like it. I understand you would like to see a published article about how erythromycin effects the nitrogen cycle but that would be hard to find. I am sure there have been studies on penicillin or erythromycin and its effects on nitrosomonas and nitrobacter because of the increase in the amount of these chemicals found in run off and water supplies. I am going to go out on a limb here and say both forms of bacteria are resistant due to the fact that Mardel makes Maracyn which is erythromycin. Following the dosing instruction on this package will kill cyanobacteria as many hobbiest have reported. If the dosing instructions are not followed then I am going to have to say your BB are at risk. When I dosed erythromycin into my tank for the 10 days I follow the recommended dosage that Mardel has put on their package.
  22. Here are just three that were quick to find. I'm sure if you dig deeper into the internet abyss you will find more. http://www.myfishtank.net/articles/blue-green-algae-article/ http://www.algone.com/articles/fish-health/antibiotics-for-aquariums http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatfishblog/2013/12/16/understanding-active-ingredients-antibacterial-aquarium-medications/#.UuMfTJXnaUk
  23. Will the EM kill the beneficial bacteria? Erythromycin is most effective against gram (+) bacteria. The bacteria in the tank is gram (-) and gram (-) are less sensitive to erythromycin. It just so happens that BGA is a special case of gram (-) bacteria that happens to be sensitive to erythromycin. There are plenty of articles out there about using this drug to kill BGA. You will also find written that it is more likely for a spike in ammonia to be more closely related to an abundance of decomposing matter than the kill off of the beneficial bacteria.
  24. I have battled Cyanobacteria in the passed and have used 3 day black out after a 10 day erythromycin treatment. You can get erythromycin easily as API has it in their product line. The key is water flow as well. Cyano does well in deadspots of the tank and has a harder time where water is moving. For a black out there must be NO light to enter the tank. So cover with black garbage bags, tarps, or what ever you have to completely black it out. You plants will be fine. After the blackout remove all the Cyano possible. It should all be dead and brownish. Also rinse off your filter media (with aquarium water) to remove any Cyano that is trapped there. If you do not remove the dead Cyano you could get a reoccurrence. Here is my method. 10 day treatment with EM removing as much cyano daily. Clean all filter media 3 day black out after treatment and then remove all dead Cyano. Ramp up the water flow in the tank
  25. I use food from Kens Fish. I use his blend of his Veggie and Vitamin flake as well as his color enhancing sinking sticks. I have used his food for years. Love it.
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