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Everything posted by karens

  1. Sunday morning update. Both fish are definitely showing symptoms of Dropsy. The Oranda has swollen and his scales continue to lift. The Moor is swelling. Both a pretty much bottom sitting all the time now. I'm going to add the last Kanaplex treatment to the water today. I've added the teaspoon of Epsom salts and will continue to feed pellets soaked with Focus and Metoplex.
  2. Sorry! One error in the last post. The Moor had Dropsy issues in January of 2015. Not this year.
  3. Regarding the meds I have on hand. I have Seachem Kanaplex, Focus, Metroplex and ParaGuard. On Wednesday evening I noticed the Oranda seemed to be swelling more so I added a dose of Kanaplex to the water and began feed him pellets soaked in Focus and Metroplex. As of this morning I've seen a reduction in swelling. His scales are still lifted slightly but he seems better. He's still bottom sitting though. The Moor has been another problem. She was the one who began bottom sitting first, around two weeks ago. As I mentioned earlier she had all the symptoms of Dropsy in January of 2016, which I struggled with for three months. After three months I gave up and was going to let nature take it's course (preparing to humanely euthanize) but she survived on her own and has been fine until the bottom sitting issue now. Your question about her not looking right is correct. When the swelling came down in 2016 her shape never balanced out. One side of her is unusually rounded. Her health is definitely compromised. I'll try and get a shot for you. Regarding the last few days with the Moor. As she was looking better than the Oranda (no lifted scales or swelling) I didn't feed her medicated pellets. They're both in the tank so she's received the Kanaplex as well. I'm thinking I overfed her while trying to get the Oranda to ingest the medicated pellets. On Thursday morning she was stuck at the top of the tanks waterline. She couldn't swim down at all. By last night she was able to swim in all levels of the tank and I fed her a small amount of cooked peas (the Oranda got medicated pellets). Late last night she was stuck on the top again. This morning she was back down on the bottom and really not wanting to move at all. Another note, I did a filter clean on Tuesday night. I usually do a clean every 5 to 6 weeks. This time I accidentally left it for 8 weeks. Too long! I hope this isn't a contributing factor. I feel like I'm yo-yoing! I'd appreciate any help you could offer. Best, Karen
  4. Thanks, I'll remove the majority of the rocks. When I do my weekly water change I pull out any rocks that need to be rinsed of algae (1/4 to 1/2) and then vacuum all waste and debris from the bottom. All rocks are moved in the process. Any thoughts on the slight lift in the Oranda's scales?
  5. Here are a few pictures to go with the info. http://s883.photobucket.com/user/karensibley/media/DSCF0411_zps8uri0mkr.jpg.html http://s883.photobucket.com/user/karensibley/media/DSCF0398_zpsvxeop9as.jpg.html http://s883.photobucket.com/user/karensibley/media/DSCF0397_zpsptddzt16.jpg.html http://s883.photobucket.com/user/karensibley/media/DSCF0399_zpsmfpcywfo.jpg.html
  6. Hi, Here is the requested info, but after watching both fish today I think the Oranda is swelling and starting to pine cone. Both fish continue to bottom sit for hours a day but readily come to eat. The Oranda will swim a bit, glide and then rest on the bottom. The Moor looks the same as always * Ammonia Level (Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level (Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 5ppm * Ammonia Level (Tap) 0 * Nitrite Level (Tap) 0 * Nitrate level (Tap) 0 * Ph Level - low range (Tank) 7.6 * Ph Level, low range (Tap) 7.6 * Ph Level, high range (Tank) 7.8 * Ph Level, high range (Tap) 7.6* GH range (Tap) 140 * GH range (Tank) 140 * KH range (Tap) 90 * KH range (Tank) 80 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Nutrafin Drops * Water temperature? 21.5C / 70.7F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 45 gallon - running for 3 years & 4 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? EHEIM Classic 600 * How often do you change the water and how much? 50% weekly * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 3 days ago, changed 50% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 Oranda - 3 yrs. old - 4.5 inches long, 1 Blackmoor - 5 yrs. old - 4.5 inches long * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seachem Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food. Feed 1 time daily, soaked Omega One pellets every other day, rotated with cooked peas, brocolli, shrimp (very occasionally) on other days, occasionally oranges * Any new fish added to the tank? No new fish. * Any medications added to the tank? No Meds currently being used. Or for more than a year. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. I treated the Blackmoor when I got her 4 years ago for Cloudy Eye and Fungus. She had been in a terrible tank. In January of 2014 she showed pine coning. I treated her for Dropsy for a number of months with too many drugs and then stopped to let nature take it's proverbial course. The Oranda was also in the tank with the meds. The moor hasn't been the correct shape after this issue but has been displaying healthy behaviour for the last year. I believe she's seriously compromised from her initial year in a terrible tank and my attempts to keep her alive last January. I've probably compromised the Oranda's health at that time as well. Meds: API Fungus Cure, API Melafix, API Pimafix, Seachem PolyGuard, Seachem Kanaplex. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Just sat and looked closely at the Oranda. He seems swollen with scales starting to pine cone. Very concerning. Oranda also has a white mucus on his head. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Both fish are bottom sitting for a number of hours a day.
  7. Hi All, My four year old Black Moor and 3 year old Oranda have been bottom sitting on and off for more than two weeks now. The Moor started and then the Oranda the last week.They readily come to eat and are showing no visible disease that I an see. The only change I've made recently was to replace the gravel substrate with river rock in January. The Oranda was choking on and ingesting the smaller gravel. I bought rock approved for aquarium and boiled it well before placement. I also place soft material fake plants but these too are made for aquarium use. The only thing I can think of is that they may be constipated or that I'm over feeding. I fed them peas yesterday. They get them every four or five day normally. Diet as follows: Omega One sinking pellets every other day rotated with cooked brocolli, cooked peas, cooked shrimp and oranges. Tank Perameters: Ammonia: 0 ppm pH: 7.5 Nitrate: 15 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm • perform 45-50% water changes weekly - use Seachem Prime • filter cleaned every 5 to 6 weeks • good aeration • water temp.: 70 ºF 21 ºC I'm racking my brain here. I'd really appreciate some help. I recently lost a beloved cat unexpectedly to cancer and DON'T want to lose my fishy friends! Much appreciated, Karen
  8. Well it's been a few weeks and Tish's spots are slowly increasing again and I think the Oranda is starting to show signs of fungus on his wen. They are acting and eating well. Any thoughts as to what I can try?
  9. OK guys, I'm at my wit's end. The salt bath went fine but didn't put an end to the white spots on my Moore's tail. To date, over the past five months I've tried two courses each of Pimafix, Melafix, API Fungus Cure, PraziPro and Furan 2. I've had my water check repeatedly by my LFS (it's always good). The treatments of PraziPro, Fungus Cure and Furan 2 reduced the spots but didn't eliminate them. Once I clear the water of a treatment, the spots slowly increase. I had a long talk with the manager of the Fish Room at my LFS, he's suggested a few of the treatments I've tried. At this point he's saying that my Moore's immune system just isn't strong enough to clear this issue and to let it run it's course and see if she lives. He spoke of euthanasia as well. I've had Tish for two years now. She came from a horrible tank and it took me months to get her healthy and I'm not about to give up now. She active and eating well. The only other symptom I'm seeing from both of them is stringy poop occasionally. Yesterday I did a 50% water change and put the charcoal in to clear the Furan 2. Tish's tank mate, an Oranda had shown a small fuzzy spot on the tail but it's gone now after the Furan treatment. I know I sound like a very obsessed, crazy fish lady but I'd like to have her for a long time. HELP!
  10. First, thanks so much for the support. I'm quite attached to Tish and want to get these spots healed. I'll stop with the Prazi for now. Their tank has now had .3% salt in it for two weeks, going into its third with yesterdays water change. Could I ask for step by step instructions? There seems to be a lot of variation in what I'm reading on salt dips. Also, should I be keeping the tank at .3% salt? I'm so worried about her, these spots have been a problem for months now.
  11. So I've done two treatments of Prazipro over the last two weeks and while there's improvement, the spots on both sides of Tish's tail are still there. I've just done my weekly 50% water change and added another dose since it seems to be helping but I don't think this is going to completely clear her problem. She's quite active and is eating well. Any thoughts on where I should go from here? Thank You!
  12. Hi Alex, It's been awhile as I've been out of town with work yet again. In the mean time, Tish's spots have slowly come back. Not as bad, but back none the less. After clearing the tank of salt for a few weeks. I've now added 1 rounded teaspoon per 5 gal. in my 45 gal. tank. I added the Prazi as per the directions last Monday night after my weekly water change. So far I see a slight improvement. I've also noticed that both fish's poop is stringy. My LFS says that is a sign of parasites. Your thoughts? If I don't see further improvement, what would you suggest. Thank you in advance! Karen
  13. Hi Alex, I can bring the salt up. I've read that salting a tank for more than four weeks isn't good for the fish. What's your thought? And no, I haven't treated for flukes. What should I use? Forgetful? If I don't have it written down it goes in one ear and out the other. No problems!
  14. Hi Alex, Yes, the spots are still slightly there. Right now, there's 1 teaspoon per 2 gals. Tank 45 gals.
  15. Hi Alex, I had a look at the salt information and realized I need to take the salt content out of my tank for now. It's been four weeks. Being bad a math I was looking for the correct dosage for a 45 gal tank at 3%.
  16. Thanks Amanda for the water change suggestion. I've already increased my weekly water change to 50% and I do a gravel vacuum twice a day with an Eheim Quick Vac Pro. I had my water checked at my LFS a few days ago and they said it was great. I run my own tests but I have them cross check every so often. One question about the correct salt percentage. My goldies are in a 45 gal tank. I've added a tablespoon per 5 gals. Is that about right? Thanks, Karen
  17. Hi! Just wanted to say that Tish is clear of her spots. The Prazipro did the trick! Thanks Alex!
  18. I went to my LFS with the pics of Tish's spots. They suggested getting my water parameters in line first, along with adding salt before medicating. Since then I've been done four 30% water changes (every other day) and have almost have my numbers in line. I'm finding it tough to bring down the nitrate. Nitrate was 10ppm (down from 40ppm) before last night's change. I'll check tonight and see where it is. I've noticed improvement in the spots. They're not totally cleared by any means but they look smaller. Both fish are feeling quite good and eating well. Do you think I should introduce the Prazipro now or get the nitrate levels balanced and continue salt? Thanks so much!
  19. Thanks! I've got the salt in. I'll pick up the Prazipro today.
  20. So I started to set my QT last week and got called out of town before I could finish. I quickly did a 20% water change and added 1/4 dose of salt to the main tank due to the plants. I came back last night to find my Oranda now has a small white spot on the tail and has lost a scale on the back close to the dorsal fin, YIKES! The Moor isn't any worse but not any better. I plan on pulling the plants and snails tonight and putting them in the 6 gallon tank. I'll do my weekly water change a day early and then go with a full dose of aquarium salt. The Pimafix and Melafix haven't helped. And now with the Oranda affected I'm not sure if I should be using any further meds as well. Should I treat for flukes as you mention earlier dnalex? Something stronger for bacterial or fungal? I'm not really sure what is affecting them. Both fish are not showing any unusual behavior, and are eating well. I really want to get this clear up. Just a note: I've also realized recently that I been goofing up my water levels by leaving the ceramic filter media out of the water too long during cleaning and probably oxygen starving the good bacteria.
  21. Thanks dnalex for your opinion to QT her. I'll definitely get her into a QT if the Melafix treatment I'm current doing doesn't cure the issue. I'm seeing improvement after two days so I'll finish this course. You mention that other fish could be affected. Is the thickened slime coat considered a disease? I'm a newbie at this (since last December).
  22. Hi Georgia, I've gone back and forth with putting her in a quarantine tank but I worry that the separation stress would be bad for her. She's really tight with her tank mate. I'm thinking dynalex is right about it being a slime coat issue. I've taken your advice and increased my water changes and have seen some improvement. Thanks! I mentioned a few days ago that I was going to start with Melafix but I've held off until I do my scheduled water change tonight. Hopefully this will clear it.
  23. About the same. I've stopped the Pimafix and am going to start Melafix in the morning. Hopefully I'll see improvement. Salt has been mentioned by a couple of people, but I have live plants.
  24. * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 40 ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 0 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines 7.6 + did another 25% water change today with Prime & Stability - total for the week 50% Hi All, Well, I did my best to get a few good pictures of my Blackmoor's tail spots. I've stopped using the Pimafix as I don't think it's doing the job. Any thoughts? Thanks, KarenS http://s883.photobucket.com/user/karensibley/library/
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