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  1. Update: We have a nitrate level as tested on 12/07 and today on 12/08 at between 5 and 10 pm. We knew the levels would drop in time- due to the loss of our largest goldfish. We are using the Algone Water Clarifier and Nitrate Remover that the aquarium center recommended. We have done a change on the pads and will need to test at some time whether we feel this is an effective product. With the holidays, we are just relieved that we have stability in the tank and can keep it safe for the fish. We are doing frequent water changes and will need to find a balance of how much and when. The other levels are excellent and remain so. Our water pH levels are stable at 7.4 with the crushed coral and drop no further than 7.2 during water changes. This temporary drop doesn't seem to affect the fish. We are amending the tap water prior to adding it to the tank. Our normal water pH is testing below 6.4 and closer to 6.1 so I think this is all good. Again thank you very much for your assistance. Shakaho- I will be frank- my husband could not agree with you more. I am so grateful for this forum that gives such good advice.
  2. Thank you for continuing support with experienced advice and concern Amanda. I really appreciate it. I do feel more confident doing larger water changes. I think I was very cautious about the massive water changes with the charcoal filter-the Marineland Magnum 350. I switched to the Eheim to set up a biological filter and it seems to be doing a very good job of keeping the ammonia down. Sharon, I think we experienced a disconnect in regards to what we thought this new filter could process-perhaps in our quest to best integrate tank maintenance into our schedule. My husband and I had been talking about the ease with which our outdoor fish have handled the acidic water and that they have tolerated massive water changes, heavy rainfall, etc. We think that it's easier to maintain the two ponds outside than the one tank inside. lol. I do feel more confident to do the frequent water changes. We had honestly thought we could get away with weekly water tests, and now, I guess we must do them daily again, as well as doing these large water changes as needed. Whatever will keep the nitrate down- whatever works best for the tank. The males had been flanking the female comet and chasing her around- and we were expecting the rain of eggs to come and it didn't this time- so we thought it was just some behavior, or a prelude, and I guess it wasn't. I will let everyone know when we get the tank below 10ppm nitrate. Again, many thanks!
  3. Hi. We have got the tank down to a nitrate level of 40ppm. The color chart that comes with the API test chart has very close shades of red at that end of the spectrum, but it is more of an orangey color today. We did a 40% water change last night that took a few hours with the buffering of the acidic water and aging the water a bit to do a pH test prior to intro to the 75 gallon tank. pH 7.4 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 tank around 70 degrees F. And don't you know- another 4 hour blackout- it was 15 degrees outside in the middle of the night! We dropped in battery powered bait bucket airstones to agitate the water. We are doing another 40%percent change tonite. I can say that our male chocolate oranda and black moor are vigorous and eating and we are monitoring them and their tank closely. Working on getting the tank down to 0 nitrate- and again thank you very much for your advice and concern.
  4. Our comet female died some time last night. My husband examined her and found no frayed fins, no bloody streaks, no discoloration of her vent, gills, no damage to her eyes beyond distention, and no evidence of external parasites to the eye. Her body was very hard to the touch, swollen, and her scales were standing out. She was fine on the 21st really vigorous and piggy with food as always- became suddenly lethargic on the 22nd, refusing food in the day, on the morning of the 23rd she swelled up, and by the afternoon, began to "pine cone". She was at the bottom of the tank when we returned from the fish store, but still swimming when we netted her. Her body bowed in the hospital tank, she became unresponsive, and died within hours. Whatever the root illness or condition was, it was very quick and catastrophic. The other fish are active, eating, and have no frayed fins. The oranda has a wen coming in. The tank this morning is: 7.4pH, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 60 nitrate, and at 70F. A 40 percent water change was preformed last night. We feel that we took the EHeim out of it's cycle when we dumped the water out of it, and spilled the top layer of medium a week ago. We feel the tank crashed, sending the nitrates up. My husband feels that putting the fish in a bucket and changing the tank out 100 percent will stress them, and that the tank will need to be cycled again. He also feels that constantly changing the water is just another way of staving off a tank crash, instead of allowing the tank a chance to cycle. We know the nitrate is not at good levels yet, and are weighing what to do. We understand we have to act on this. We have two large canister filters cycling a whopping amount of water per hour. We have two long air tubes with a big air pump on them, 3 filters ( two canisters, one UV) providing surface agitation, and minimal substrate where mulm buildup can be monitored. The tank is open-uncovered. We have a GFI on the power source. We have a generator that is hooked up to the tank during the extended power outages my area has suffered over the last year. We have a deep sink dedicated water source only for the fish that's used to clean their pumps and provide water. We wear gloves when we clean their tank and clean the pumps. I am wondering if perhaps the tank is too clean. Perhaps we should disconnect and remove the internal UV filter for a period of time, particularly since it seems to be a "mulm" trap. Goldsguy: Thank you for sharing your considerate advice with us. We are reviewing your experiences to integrate a sound course of action into the coming week-not the best time for a tank crash. fantailfan1 :The Eheim has the material in the canister that it came with and has been on this tank for 45 days. The Marineland has been on the tank for 2 years and also has stock filter material as per their instructions- a blue sleeve that covers a waffled box of charcoal. A scrubber can also be changed out to remove particulates in the water. We are still reviewing courses of action, because we hesitate to affect the oranda's and moor's feeding and activity. We are trying to decide how to approach the nitrate and cycle it too. We need to review everything again to establish a routine. We will continue to closely monitor the situation, and check in. We will apprise the community of the nitrate levels and keep this thread open. Thank you all, and please feel free to offer any suggestions as we do want to do the best for our fish. At this point, it isn't feasible for us to purchase a larger tank system and the furniture needed to support it. We are going to be having work done in that room in the coming months and are going to need to safely house them in another room for at least a few days.
  5. We do have both canisters up and running on the main tank at this time. We did a 40% water change and lightly fed both fish who are showing normal activity levels and appearance. The pH and temp are at the same levels. We are very comforted by the support shown here and will continue this thread as advised. Yes. Our poor lady is still alive but showing no improvement. We are going to rest and resume tomorrow. Again many thanks.
  6. Thank you Chai. Sometimes I haven't felt adequate to the needs of goldfish. I had a raised a small goldfish to a large one many years ago and had a successful cichlid tank for many years. I find the balance of frequent water changes and keeping an adequate supply of good bacteria to be challenging with an indoor tank.
  7. Thank you so much for this advice. We are actively changing the water out now and will follow your suggestions. We have smaller buckets that equal 20 gallons and have a deep sink installed just for the fish. We are concerned about her eggs possibly being a cause of her decline in health. That is why I included that as a note. She is barely hanging on and it's such a shame because she is our favorite indoor fish. We have two outdoor ponds with beautiful healthy goldfish in each. We brought the second online this year and added two more small planted ponds with no fish. We haven't lost a fish to disease outside. Just to a northern water snake who visited last year. That was very sad but the snake was returned to his native waterway and didn't return. This year we had a rash of small snakes but returned them to their native waterway and the episodes ceased. I am so thankful for this forum because of your knowledge, empathy, and love of goldfish.
  8. No. I agree with you and don't feel there is anything that can be done. We have moved her to the small tank because we need to begin the needed task of caring for the other two goldfish who are outwardly showing no ill effects but are in essentially toxic water. I have a product the aquarist recommended. It is Algone Water Clarifier and Nitrate remover that is a pad that is inserted into canister filters. I was thinking to do a 20% water change tonight, add one of the pads to the filter...and do another partial change tomorrow and daily until the nitrate goes down. Would this be a good course of action? I am so sorry about our poor lady goldfish. I just want to thank you for your excellent advice and assistance at this time.
  9. I just checked on her in the main tank. Her back is arched laying on her side with virtually no movement. We believe she is near death. I am sorry. She is gone now.
  10. I also tested both tanks with high pH and the colors are the same. Now we have to decide if we want to transfer her back into the hospital tank with this reaction of laying on her side and no movement.
  11. We transferred her to the hospital tank and she sank to the bottom and rolled over on her side and remained there w/no movement. We left her in there for two minutes while testing the water params against the main tank. Temp is the same as the main tank and pH is at 7.4-same as the main tank. I saw no movement in the fish and so returned her to the main tank to see if she would revive. She righted herself in the main tank but remained upright on the bottom as had found her when we returned. When she goes into the hospital tank she lays on her side and doesn't move and looks near death. I can only say that we added exactly 4 level measures of metro and 1/2 level teaspoon of Epsom Salts.
  12. Yes. No water conditioner- I have used Top Fin pH increase to get the pH up in the hospital tank. I will add the metro now and transfer. We have a very large net for her and have experience in netting fish.
  13. Should I add the medication and then put the fish into the hospital tank? Thank you.
  14. The instructions on the Metronidazole say: " Use 1-2 measures (each about 100mg) for every 40L(10 US Gallons). Repeat every 2 days until symptoms disappear. I will add the Epsom salt now. Thank you so much.
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