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Everything posted by Steve1107

  1. Resist this urge at all costs! At least, until after 4-8 weeks of successful quarantine. I think I know what you mean, though. You sound like a man of decisive action -- awesome! And apologies, the time difference escaped me. You're pretty wise to get good rest, that's key for everything else. Personally I've made mistakes and also have read about others' disasters when trying to do fish care late at night.
  2. Koko's moderators may say it's not perfect, but -- we gotta do what we can, with what we have. Sure, use the 8 gallon tank as a quarantine tank. Start today as soon as you can! fwiw we always use 27- or 30-quart Rubbermaid-type bins, that hold 7 gallons more or less. When there's no filter for the QT you just have to test and change the water every day. Some say (weloveteaching.com/puregold) it's actually better to give a sick fish 100% new water each day! bodoba (is that Una?) already said it about the 29-gallon tank. Water testing will tell you if your fish get too big, because the chemistry will start to fluctuate with wastes going up quickly where they once were stable. Plants can help a lot. Quite possibly you'll never need a bigger tank for just the two of them. First, though, rescue and quarantine the poor Oranda. Sounds as if some salt in the water may be called for right away...
  3. Best wishes and best of luck! As far as your Bro goes, from your posts it seems like you care a lot about him. For schooling him on Koi pond stocking, it's kind of like some situations with our teenaged kids -- "You can either believe me now, or find out the hard way later."
  4. Hi! It's great you're concerned about your brother's fish including Oranda. I'm really worried about the Oranda too. Of course, protect your Ryukin's health above all. imo the Oranda is at way bigger risk in its present location than from any possible chemical exposure from a temporary container, which is a remote risk at worst and hypothetical at best. My understanding is that GF are best not kept with Koi unless in very understocked conditions with lots and lots of room. iirc Koi bully the GF and compete for food to the GF's disadvantage. If you can get any plastic storage bin like Rubbermaid or Sterilite at least 100 liters/30 US quarts or larger, grab it to use as a temporary/QT! If you're willing to do the water changes (basically, daily), all you'd need at first to rescue the Oranda is the empty container. I'm right there with you about the funds btw. GF do like and thrive with having another GF for company -- a healthy eventual tankmate for your Ryukin, likely both will be very happy. Although it's the smallest tank that would be recommended, 29 gallons is very safe for two fancy GF. Of course water quality has to be monitored but this is true of any tank. Likely the 29 gallon tank will be big enough for quite a long time. Some say, fish grow somewhat more slowly if they're in a small-ish container, so that should help here. If you decide to rescue the Oranda, quarantine her/him at least 4 weeks and preferably 8 weeks NO MATTER WHAT. If you'd like to rescue him, do it at the very earliest possible moment you can manage! Nothing like Craigslist where you are (Phillippines?)? Let's start a business! CL has succeeded very well here.
  5. Update: The 2.5 gallon "bottled water" jugs from above will fit inside 27-quart Sterilite clear plastic bins (also fit inside 30-quart Rubbermaid bins). Fwiw the Sterilite ones usually cost a little less.
  6. You're welcome. Hopefully, hopefully this will be helpful! Best of all will be if it's unneeded; you know, no hurricanes... If there is a need, hopefully it'll help you keep your all your fish friends safe while their humans do what they have to do. We haven't had to evacuate (sincere spiritual thanks, btw) but this worked great for us when moving. A couple further thoughts. If you have a tank planted with stuff like Anubias that doesn't need substrate, the plants can go in a Ziploc with a little water and travel along with you. While you're in exiled in the hotel, they can help with water quality in the Rubbermaid "tanks." Plus, you'll be saving your plants too. AND...you can use the 27- or 30-quart Sterilite/Rubbermaid bins as QT's or for aging water when you aren't having to move or evacuate. Also, thank you very much for your feedback. Always important -- even better when it's positive!
  7. btw numbering is not correct in Part 2 above. :facepalm: Number 3 got passed over; should be nos. 1-6 with no number 7. All the text is there.
  8. Part 2 of 2 When it's time to evacuate: 1. Telescope the plastic tap on each Deer Park jug open and run air tubing through hole in tap, or pull off the smaller part of tap entirely, run air hose through hole, then attach air stone. http://s848.photobucket.com/user/taz1107/media/Transport%20Goldfish/BatteryairpumpwithT-connectors.jpg.html?sort=2&o=1 2. Fill each Deer Park jug with tank water to just below the upper narrow place (orange tape in pic) in the jug, to the tip of the blue arrow (pic). The narrow place helps keep water from sloshing out so easily. Add a fish to each jug and lower 3-sided flap back in place, it'll stay more or less closed on its own and keep the fish and the water where you want them. Make sure you keep the jugs upright with open end on top. Don't put anything else in jug, that way there's nothing extra that the fish could injure herself on. Put the Rubbermaid tubs in the car and then load two jugs in one Rubbermaid bin and one jug in the other. Stack one of the Rubbermaid tubs inside the third (empty) one. Check to make sure you put the Rubbermaid lids in the car, too. http://s848.photobucket.com/user/taz1107/media/Transport%20Goldfish/Tubsholdwaterjugsupright.jpg.html?sort=2&o=3 4. Throw your Prime, fish food, and all the other stuff on your list into some Ziploc bags. If you use the 3 jug / 2 Rubbermaid plan, toss the Ziplocs into the Rubbermaid with the one Deer Park jug to help keep the jug upright. 5. Hook up the battery air pumps and aerate water. Remember that the fish can't stay in a car parked in the sun. 6. At your hotel, empty the stuff out of the Rubbermaid tubs; fill each tub with tap water that you test, treat, and pH- and temperature- match; then add a fish and an airstone to each tub. If the fish have been in the Deer Park jugs a long time, you may want to acclimate them to the new water and then throw out the jug water. Put a lid loosely on each tub because Goldfish, of course. 7. You'll probably have to change the water every 24-36 hours per ammonia test results. Personally, it would take me about an hour or a little more each day to test, buffer, and change all three Rubbermaid tubs. If you do 100% water changes, the fish can hang out in the Deer Park jugs while you're doing the wc's. If you have a regular electric air pump with extension cord, take them too if you can. You can hook it up to your hose array and this'll be a lot quieter in your hotel room than the battery pump(s). OTOH, if you have one fish per tub, you could leave the battery pumps off at night if needed because of the pump noise. Consider giving your hotel room housekeeper a heads-up -- ask her if she can work around the Rubbermaid tubs, not clean that area while you're there. Let her know you'll make sure there's no mess. You def. don't want any cleaning stuff to spray in there by accident! Hopefully this will help out if you want to take your fish. I sure would! fwiw You won't have to worry about them being in a tiny bucket or alone at home with who-knows-what. It CAN be done! It's not really hard at all and not so expensive that it's totally impractical. Plus, you can collect the supplies over time, not spend too much at once if you don't want to. Best wishes, and keep us posted! And again, apologies this wasn't up till way after you were promised.
  9. Apologies you had to wait longer than promised! Part 1 of 2 Stuff to go ahead and collect: http://s848.photobucket.com/user/taz1107/media/Transport%20Goldfish/Basicmovingsupplies.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0 1. Three empty 2.5-gallon plastic jugs of spring water or drinking water, like Deer Park or Crystal Springs, about $2.59 each at supermarket or Wal-Mart. Cut a flap on three sides in the small end of each of the Deer Park jugs -- cut the end with the plastic tap. Leave the side closest to the tap as the uncut side (where to cut is outlined with red tape in pics). http://s848.photobucket.com/user/taz1107/media/Transport%20Goldfish/Cutflap3sidesalongredtape.jpg.html?sort=2&o=2 2. Three (or at least two) clean 30-quart Rubbermaid clear plastic tubs with lids, about ($8.00?) each. I think 27-qt Sterilite containers work too, but please double-check that Deer Park jugs fit OK. If you have 3 fish, three tubs would be best so each fish has as much water as possible at your hotel. You can compare different Rubbermaid sizes to mix-and-match with however many jugs you need and how much room you have in car. 3. One or two battery-powered air pumps. Wal-Mart sporting goods section has good ones for price imo, for fishermen's live bait buckets, about $9.59 each. Petsmart's TopFin battery air pump for about $11.50 is fine; Marineland ones are OK too. 4. Three or four airstones and plenty of air tubing (couple bucks at Wal-Mart). 5. Air tubing connectors. Petco 2-Way Air Control Valve Comb ones (in pics) for $4.99 each are awesome. You also could use some simple T connectors, about $1.00-$1.60 (at Petco for example), if you want to spend less. http://s848.photobucket.com/user/taz1107/media/Transport%20Goldfish/BatteryairpumpwithT-connectors.jpg.html?sort=2&o=1 6. Enough D-cell batteries for your air pump(s) and a couple extras. 7. A list of everything you'll need for fish care -- lots of Prime or AmQuel, fish food, water test kits, water treatment chemicals like baking soda/aquarium salt/Seachem products, tank thermometer (important), ALL MEDS that you have; a couple clean plastic cups or milk jugs with top cut off and handle left on, an old towel if you want, etc. Put the list with the empty 2.5-gallon jugs so you can just check stuff off when it's time to leave.
  10. Hi it's great that you care about your fish!...and...you're thinking ahead. Way to go, to get 'er done! Even if it's stressful to you and the fish, I personally would take mine. It's very do-able. You never know how long you'll have to stay gone. Who knows how hot it will be while you're away? If you live in LA, you know it WILL be hot! Also, no telling how long the power and water may be off. If you plan ahead and have a few simple things ready it doesn't take much room, and you (for real) can be ready to scoot in five minutes. Hardest part will be all the water changes and water testing while you're away. The stuff you get ready, it can sit in the closet for years (except maybe batteries) and still be fine. Hotels? Don't even ask about the fish. If you're low-key and quiet checking in, they won't notice or care. What they don't want is: they wouldn't want a big water spill in a room. That will not be a problem. And what they really, really don't want is animals barking or making noise, using the bathroom on the carpet, or tearing up furnishings. You'll have those parts covered! I gotta go for now, will get some pics and finish this post sometime tonight or tomorrow AM. Hopefully that will be soon enough for ya, and maybe it'll help. We have moved fish several hundred miles -- twice -- this way and everybody stayed healthy! Cheers, Steve
  11. Hi, I order 10-gram containers of Prazi-Pond Plus powder from pondrx.com, about $25.00 each. The site owner is very pleasant (Ted, iirc) and ships fast. Double-checking the site before posting just now it took some searching to find the 10-gram size but it's there. If you live near a koi/pond specialty shop, they may have Prazi-Pond Plus powder & you wouldn't have to mail-order. Powdered prazi is tough to dissolve in water. It takes about 5 min of shaking in a jar of tank water. The dose is 5 milligrams of powder per 1 liter of tank water. A digital milligram scale is needed if you use prazi powder. Amazon.com has pocket digital scales for pretty cheap. I got one for about $10.00, not including shipping, that measures down to the level of 10 mg which is fine. If you decide to order prazi on line and you put in an order for the milligram scale at the same time, maybe they both arrive by the time you need them? fwiw the digital scale has come in handy for several other GF applications here, including antibiotics and medicated food I went with prazi powder because moderators on the forum I went on before finding Koko's -- very sadly, closed down because of illness of the site's owner/administrator -- felt really, really strongly that they had seen multiple treatment failures with PraziPro liquid. Maybe due to the strength/concentration of PraziPro? I don't remember that they recommended the 3% salt dips for stripping off slime coat before each Prazi treatment, which Koko's mods recommend, and which may be what you need for success with the liquid? If the other site recommended dips I must have overlooked. Do you have any specialty/hobbyist LFS's in your area? A couple of smaller, non-chain LFS around here sell PraziPro but not biggies like Petco or Petsmart as far as I can tell. National online sellers like Drs. Foster and Smith also offer PraziPro but it seems it takes a specialized site for the powder. Koko's Forum's excellent prazi dosing calendar is the one to use imo, whether you go with PraziPro liquid or the powdered form. Best wishes, and keep us posted!
  12. AFAIK if treating all the Goldfish -- like you'd be doing -- you just treat in the main tank. Plants and the biofilter bacteria don't even notice Prazi. Not sure about scaleless fish or invertebrates, though, if your Goldfish happen to have roommates... Unless a fish was in QT for other reasons, we've always just treated the main tank. Only GF in it though. Prazi is so non-stressful for GF, hopefully you'll consider going ahead and dosing yours. One of those things one might as well go ahead and do before there's an urgent need, you know?
  13. @4prettyfish Apologies owed to you as well! Please do keep in mind, the thought above should be used ONLY during the final stages when you're giving in to temptation to buy a particular fish (when you can make at least some sort of arrangements to accomodate her). Otherwise, use this thought: The fish is almost certain to be adopted by someone who has more tank room and can give her a home equally caring and knowledgeable but better for her well-being. And kinder to the fish you already have, by keeping them understocked. btw please don't ask if I succeed with the advice about "kinder to the fish, if you keep them understocked instead of 100% stocked." Also, not sure about this but -- how many Goldfish beginners start with Orandas? Our little boy said, the first time he saw one, "Eeeoouw! What's wrong with that fish's brain?" [Don't know if this will help, just saying...]
  14. Plants are way into the fishy nitrogen wastes from old tank water, like other posters mentioned. Nitrogen = fertilizer (oversimplification but basically correct). More complex molecules like antibiotics probably are fragile enough to be broken down in the soil as someone wrote above (think "handling and storage instructions"). In most cases, Goldfish would be unlikely to live through anything horrible enough to be toxic in the soil, you know? Aquarium salt is something worth keeping in mind, whenever you happen to be using salt. I killed an innocent New Guinea impatiens in a flowerpot by forgetting about the salt. Not all plants seem to mind, though. Usually one or the other of our tanks has at least some salt and the camellias outside by the brick wall must not give a flying flip. For about two years now they've been getting used tank water and they flourish like weeds!
  15. Please accept my apologies to you for having been so insular! Plastic tubs, message boards specific to the country I'm posting from are absolutely no help. Rationalization and creative problem-solving are international, though! lol
  16. Thanks for the update, it'd be reassuring if he only sits when the light is off. Personally, if this is a change from several months ago I would stay vigilant. Have you considered going ahead with Prazi? I've read that all GF have gill flukes. Bacteria breech the GF's defenses & get a foothold where the parasites attach. imo it's wise to think twice before using antibiotics but MM may not be that farfetched if you haven't had the opportunity to treat for parasites yet (would still need to de-parasitize even if you gave MM to remove the original insult). Actually Medi-Gold may be your winner here given that Aeromonas is always hanging around. I think we've lost a couple fish to internal Aeromonas that showed up as decreased activity followed by bottom-sitting then lethargy, weakness and eventual dtopsy that failed to rrspond to Epsom/heat/MM's. Subject to input from Forum sages and your own judgement, of course.
  17. +1Personally this option's looking good Sterilite is usually even cheaper. Time quarantine is over, you'll figure out how to upgrade your main tank. Is there a Craigslist for your area? You can ask yourzelf, "How likely is it that the fish will be adopted into an appropriately knowledgeable, skilled home if she doesn't come home with me?" Someone (wiser than me) once said, usually you end up having more regrets over things you DIDN'T do. Keep us posted!
  18. Hi fwiw dnalex and Midnight most likely are right (again!) Bottom-sitting is something you def. should worry about, particularly if it's a change (even a subtle one) over time. Like Midnight, we have lost Goldfish for whom this was the earliest change. What makes it harder, if your Moor is like ours was, there's absolutely nothing else to go on, at least in the beginning. Did your fish get Prazi'd? Gills look OK? Poops OK? Fins 100% OK? These may be obvious questions, please accept apologies, just hope you can avoid having someone whom you care about get sick. Filter media cleaned periodically? No tank deco with hidden cavities, no outlaw plants coral or wood? Substrate not too thick? Again, apologies...what you wrote makes me worry. If this happens to another one of our fish, imo something is going wrong until/unless completely proven otherwise. If absolutely everything on all your fish, in your tank, and in your system comes up clean, maybe someone who's had similar can advise on what to do next...personally if this happens to us I'll ask the Koko's people what would be most likely and go ahead and treat for that. Poor little Goldfish -- their small bodies give them so little reserve that by the time they're in visible distress, hope is fading. Best wishes, and please keep us posted.
  19. Hi, I wasn't able to find an answer to this specific question. Can anyone please help? If you begin praziquantel rounds by giving your fish a 5-minute dip in 3% salt water, is it necessary to repeat a salt dip during the course of prazi treatment? If so, how do you know when to repeat? Thank you!
  20. Similar size and physical characteristics help with compatibility for sure, like eyesight, swimming ability, and so on. Age? idk, my guess (fwiw) is "no," as long as it doesn't also mean a difference in speed, strength, vigor, etc. Maybe another poster has definite info on this... Also, having a male-female pair means a different dynamic at spawning time.
  21. I haven't seen this personally, but people have written about losing one member of a pair of Goldfish and having the survivor mope or "mourn" for quite a while. Supposedly Goldfish can remember things for as long as three months. Which brings to mind another story (apologies!): two summers ago work; well, specifically graduate school, kept my Better Half and Spouse out of state for about eight weeks, a lot longer than usual at that time. When she finally got back home and walked into the house Blackie, our son's Black Moor, went just plain crazy in his tank. For about 5-10 minutes he dashed around like an insane fish, turning somersaults and so on. And Myra was just a family member as far as he was concerned -- she'd say "Hi" now and then but never gave him any of his routine care or any special attention. Who knows exactly what it means to them? But it seems that companionship has SOME sort of significance for Goldfish. http://s848.photobucket.com/user/taz1107/media/Blackie%207-14-2012/PicsforGAB_orgtransferred7-14-2012005.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7
  22. Helen, Thank you very much for sharing your experience in this matter. All that you wrote makes perfect sense and it's all eminently believable. I'm thinking a wise Goldfish keeper could learn from the experience you kindly shared, avoid trouble, and have six healthy happy Goldfish for many years; or put seven Fancies in a 125 gallon tank and re-live all that you described. Why is it so hard to leave well enough alone and be happy when things are "good"? Instead of always trying to get to "better." :sighs:
  23. @motherredcap Striving to be responsible. Thank you for your kind support. Very helpful! Of two Forum members who posted, it seems one advises against another fish and the other is perhaps a bit hesitant, "Proceed with caution"? Now, to keep self-control and follow the more conservative route...
  24. Food for very serious thought... It seems in Goldfish aquaculture there are more than enough landmines that can't really be anticipated. It simply doesn't make sense to toss a predictable one out onto the path; for starters, it would be unfair to the Goldfish. So why'd I go and get my thick-skulled self attached? Thank you for your rational / sane input. :facepalm:
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