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  1. I'm thinking I'll hand the old filer on the new tank and have both filters running at the same time. I do wonder if it would get the new and much larger filter seeded faster if I moved over the sponge pre filter from the old filter into the new filter basket. I could run both filters that way and get the new filter seeded.
  2. Thanks for the tips on getting the new tank cycled faster. The little tank is cycled and I was wondering if there was a way to use the old tank to help cycle the new tank. I'll move over the filter from the old tank as well as the gravel tonight and they can start enjoying their new home much soon than I was expecting. The filter on the new tank is rated at 400 gph , so if I get another one just like it on the other side I'll have 800 gph of filtration which should get the job done I would think. I'll have to post a picture of them swimming around in the new tank tonight
  3. Finally got it done. This Saturday was the day and I brought home a 75 gallon tank. Given what I could tell with my floor and where I had space for the tank I decided not to risk any more than 75 gallons. It looks HUGE compared to the little 10 gallon tank. You can see the little tank next to to the new 75 in the pic. After I got it all set up I did a 50% water change on the existing tank and just dumped the water directly into the new tank. I also rinsed off the existing filter in the new tank. I figured that would give the new tank lots of bacteria and get jump start the cycle. As soon as the new tank is cycled I'll let Fin and Ginger loose in their new rooming home.
  4. Thanks for the tips on making water changes easier with big tanks. I'll aim to get that system down so I can keep up with in even when the rest of life get's stressful as it does from time to time. My thought also is that with the bigger tank I should see my water quality balance out better, i.e. more gallons per fish. For example with 125 gallons that's going to give them over 60 gallons per fish. I do remember reading somewhere on here that they release something into the water that keeps them from growing. So with a big tank and weekly water changes I should see them grow faster/bigger than they would otherwise, all other things being equal.
  5. Thanks for the link on tank sizes and weights. I found this link on an explaination from a structural engineer. http://www.african-cichlid.com/Structure.htm This would be a lot easier if I was putting the tank in the basement... Based on this I need see what location would give me the most support and floor strength. It's an older house (1956) and I do remember there are several very large beams running under the length of the living room floor and there is also a steel post supporting the floor in another area. I've decided I'll get the biggest tank my floor will support safely and take it from there. Without looking into it further it appears that up to a 125 gallon tank would likely be ok if I put it in the right place. That would give Fin and Ginger a lot of room and give me options in the future. A quick look at Craigs List indicates I'll have no trouble getting a nice big tank with a stand at a very good price. I'm thinking I'd keep the tank very basic and see how it goes. Having the right tools to do water changes would greatly cut down on the time and effort as well.
  6. That was easy, once you know how to do it. Here are a couple of pictures of Fin and Ginger, Fin being the bigger of the two. They are quite social with each other and almost always swim around together. On the topic of the tank size the weight of the tank when done could be a factor too. I imagine one would have to get pretty dang big for it to be an issue but this would be on the main floor of a Ranch style home with a basement under. A 150 gallon tank would be at least 1,250 pounds and a 300 gallon tank would weigh at least 2,500 pounds (8.35 lbs/gallon). Does anyone have any experience on what a average home floor is designed to handle?
  7. I like that line of thinking! I have some time to think about it and then plan it all out. I'm moving back into my own house July 1 which is also why I'll have more or less as much room as I want for a big tank. So my plan is to keep up with the 10 gallon tank for two more months at my current residence and then set up the new tank when I move into my house. Do a fishless cycle on the new set up and then move them into their new tank. I'll keep the 10 gallon up and running and use it to quaranten the new goldfish before I put it into the main tank. Lets see if I can figure out how to post a few pictures of Fin and Ginger.
  8. You make a pond sound pretty attractive and I've got new perspective. I personally like having the fish indoors but I can see how a pond could be pretty awesome, especially if your yard/landscaping complemented it. With time/resources in abundance one could have it both ways, inside in the winter and in the pond in the summer.
  9. Wow, excellent feed back. So forget the schooling fish idea and stick to three Goldfish. I have the space for something pretty big, so taking care of it would be the issue. I don't want it to be to much of an ordeal to keep up with it, so I like the idea of keeping it simple with a thin substrate and decoration/lay out that's easy to clean. The 90 gallon tank I looked at was a nice size for my house as long as it's a good size for the three Goldfish, which has been my concern. As long as the 90 gal tank is big enough to make keeping the water quality high then it seems the space would be good for the fish. A pond would be cool but that's a whole different deal. I'm looking for the ambiance and pleasure one gets from watching the fish and having them inside the home. Where as a pond is an outdoors feature. I have heard of people here in Fort Collins losing there pond fish to the birds we get here which inlcude Heron. These fish I have are more like pets as my family is in love with them like a family dog, so losing them to a predator would be unacceptable. If I ever did have a pond I'd stock it with fish that the family and myself have not attached to yet.
  10. I'm looking at getting Fin and Ginger a proper sized tank and I'm not sure what size to get. Fin is a Comet and is about 4 inches or so and Ginger is a Common and is currently about 2-3 inches. I was initially thinking 55 gallon would be ok, then read the 40 gallons recommendation for each single fin GF. So I looked at a 90 gallon at the pet shop and figured I could get one of those and it would give me room to add one fancy multi-tail GF too. Then I started thinking about a few decorations like a few rocks/wood and perhaps a school of small fish to complement the goldfish. No idea what those small fish would be yet or if that's a good idea? Given that type of loose plan and thinking lifetime of the fish 90 gal starts to seem on the small side with the three Goldfish, decorations that displace some of the water plus the small compementary fish. Going by the guildlines of 40 per single and 20 for a fancy that would put me at 100 gallons but that's not accounting for the complementary fish or the decorations. I love to hear from those with real world experience what size tank would be best for the fish based on my plan?
  11. Thanks for the help! Today looks better and I did another 50-60% water change. Here are the before & after tests for today. Before: Ammonia 1, Nitrate 30, Nitrite 0 After: Ammonia .25, Nitrate 5 So I've still got Ammonia but it's getting pretty low now and not going up as much between water changes. Zero Nitrites. At this rate I'm hoping to see Ammonia at zero fairly soon.
  12. Yesterday I did a another (2nd) 50% water change for the day. I measured the Ammonia and the Nitrate before and after as those seem to be the areas of concern. There was about 8-10 hours between the two water changes. After 1st Water Change: PH 7.6, Ammonia 2, Nitrate 60, Nitrite 0 Before 2nd Water Change: Ammonia 3, Nitrate 80+ After 2nd Water Change: Ammonia .75, Nitrate 20 Thanks for the Salt/Ammonia tip, I skipped the salt this time. The plan is to do another 50% water change today on my lunch break and test again and depending on the Ammonia do another one this PM. I'll measure the Nitrite this time too to make sure those have not showed up as the tank cycle gets back to a more stable state. Fin and Ginger are doing very well now!
  13. The pet store used API drop tests. April 20 - Yesterday: PH 6.4, Ammonia 6, Nitrite 0, Nitrates 40 The below test was done just done using my API drop kit. I did a 50% water change about an hour before I took these measurements. PH 7.6, High PH 7.4, Ammonia 2, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 60 This the tap water at my house. PH 7.6, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0 Seems odd that the Nitrates would be higher than yesterday given the 50% water change? Or is that expected as the Ammonia is down? Either way the Ammonia level is down but still an issue. I'm thinking another water change this PM or tomorrow would be in order? Should I use the gravel vacuum on all the water changes or would that stir stuff up and in turn raise the Ammonia? I've been using the gravel vacuum on the water changes I've been doing in sections so the gravel is getting pretty clean. I have the carbon filter going and am adding the following with the water changes: Salt - 1/2 teaspoon for 5 gallons (never used salt until recently) SeaChem Stability SeaChem Gold Basics I gave them a small amount of sinking food I picked up yesterday and Fin ate like normal for the first time since he got sick. Fin and Ginger are doing quite well now with lots of energy. One odd thing was yesterday when I added the salt, Stability, Gold Basics and Gold Buffers the water foamed at the top from the airstone bubbles. This morning before I did a water change it looked like the foam you see on rivers sometimes that are polluted. It's doing it a little bit now but quite a bit less than yesterday. Is this the by product of getting rid of the Ammonia?
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