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    2 common goldfish
  1. It firstly asked me to fill in a box that basicly just wanted to know if i was a person or a computer, i did so. Then it asked my to run java script, i did, Then a warning comes up... UNKNOWN run at own risk... I ran it... Them nothing happens.... No Sources Found There are currently no running iCamSources associated with your existing login and password So, i am sorry it dose not work =( I will try post a link to someone else's post here on KOKO that explains how to do this . ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ http://www.kokosgold...cs-photobucket/ here is a link for a how to thread. Thanks go to mikeydude319
  2. There fins can heal again? wow. My slightly bigger common goldie i think has nipped my littler common goldie competing for food. When i rescued the bigger fish, he had many rips in his back tail from been in a overcrowded shop fish tank. NOw he is bullying my lil fishy! I tried to re-arange the tank, didnt work as when i feed them the both swim in circles and chase each other, the bigger one pushes the smaller one from the bottom up to the surface. Well, looks like i will have to split them up sadly, may put some minnows with him but he will probably eat them hmm i might name him phirana. So i just need to add some API aquarium salt in the tank? He is a coldwater freshwater fish though i am very confused....
  3. Here is some upsetting info i gust found.....is this correct? Unfortunately, fish are susceptable to a variety of diseases, especially in the aquarium, due to the close proximity of other fishes. The most common disease encountered by fish is ich (pronounced ick). Ich, also known as white spot disease, is caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. The ick parasite is round, covered by cilia (hair-like extensions), and about 1 mm in diameter and so it is visible to the naked eye. The ich parasite burrows its way into the skin of the fish and feeds off the fish's blood. The gills may also be affected. In an ich infected fish you will see small white spots on the fish. The fish may act ill, with fins held close to the body, and you will often see the fish glancing off of rocks, presumably to dislodge the parasite, as they are irritating to the fish. If the gills are affected your fish will gasp for air. After a few days of feeding on the fish's blood, the parasite bores its way out of the fish and forms a cyst in the tank. This is the reproductive stage, and when complete, about 1000 free-swimming young parasites are released. These are much smaller than the adult stage and are not visible to the naked eye. This free-swimming form then seeks out a host, burrows into their skin, and the whole cycle begins again. In addition, because of the small size of the free-swimming stage, they are easily able to enter the gills of the fish. By the time you find white spots on the fish's fins and body the gills are usually already heavily infected with ich. There are treatments available. Treatments work only for the free-swimming stage. So don't expect the white spots to disappear off your fish immediately. You will have to wait for these to fall off, form the cyst stage, and when the free-swimming stage emerges they will be killed by the treatment. While you are treating your fish for ich (described below) it is a good idea to turn the temperature in your tank up a couple of degrees. The ich life cycle moves faster at higher temperatures. In this way you'll get the cysts to the free-swimming stage much quicker and can kill them off. It is important to treat the fish because ich can be fatal. It can also lead to secondary bacterial infections due to the irritation of the fish's skin. If you go to any pet store that sells fish, you will find a wide variety of different brands and treatments for ich. Some of these seem to work better than others. If you read the ingredients you will find that not all of them are using the same chemicals to treat ich. Some are formalin based, some contain malachite green or methylene blue, and some contain copper sulfate. I once purchased some corydoras catfish for one of my aquariums from a pet store that didn't practice the best fishkeeping methods. Unfortunately, the fish had ich. I knew it was a possibility when I bought them, but I was planning on keeping them in their own tank with no other fish and so I thought that I could treat them. In fact, I thought I was "saving them" from the fate they would most likely encounter at the pet store. I began treating them with a formulin based medicine. It didn't work and two of the fish died (there were 5 total). I did a partial water change and then used a copper sulfate solution and the ich problem cleared right up. In fact, I've used copper sulfate to treat ich many times over the years and it generally works for me. I use the Mardel brand. The other brands of copper sulfate (if there are any) are probably just as good for treating ich, but I've always had good luck in using the Mardel products to treat a variety of fish diseases. With the Mardel products, in most cases, you don't even have to remove the activated charcoal to treat your fish. This is usually true for all of their products. This is the product that I use to treat my fish for ich. After using the copper sulfate solution the remaining three catfish are living ich free to this day and it's been about 8 years now. As an FYI - if you use copper sulfate in your aquarium, be sure to read the directions and don't overdose your fish. Also, some fish are overly sensitive to copper sulfate and don't do well when it is added. This is true for scaleless fish (e.g., Kuhli loaches, clown loaches, and some others). Invertebrates can't tolerate copper sulfate either and so don't use it in a tank where invertebrates are living. You can also use a small amount of aquarium salt in your freshwater tanks to help prevent and cure ich. You can buy aquarium salt specifically made for freshwater fish, or you can buy uniodized salt at the grocery store. Don't use salt with iodine in it (iodized salt)!! It will kill your fish. I usually use about 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt for every 5 gallons of water. Keep in mind that if you have a 10 gallon tank that your rocks, heater, and other items in your tank take up some space and so you may not actually have 10 gallons of water. Also, salt doesn't evaporate and so when you replace water in your tank don't add more salt to it. You can, however, add more salt when making water changes (as long as it doesn't exceed the recommended salt level). Keep in mind that some fish don't tolerate extra salt as well as others (such as Bettas). Doing partial water changes when treating your tank for ich is also a good idea. This is because it helps to reduce toxins in the water, as well as to remove some of the free-swimming ich larva. Just remember that if you remove water you are also removing some of the medicine from the tank. You will need to replace this, but don't exceed the total recommended dosage. One way to help prevent ich in your aquarium is not to overcrowd the fish, don't overfeed them, and make sure you do partial water changes at least once per week. More frequent partial water changes are even better. Another way that ich can be introduced into your tank is through plants. Only buy plants from pet stores and dealers that keep the plants separate from the fish. All too often you will see pet stores keeping their aquatic plants for sale in the same tanks they are keeping fish. If you buy plants from one of these tanks and put them into your tank you are putting your fish at risk. It is also recommended that when you buy new fish to use a quarantine tank until you make sure the new fish is healthy. However, this only works if you have more than one aquarium. Generally, a quarantine tank can be small (such as 5 gallons) and it will help protect your existing fish.
  4. This is not my fish but it resembles the white dots on its fins, there is no white spots on his body though... And in this picture the white spots seem bigger, there isnt as much on one fin as shown here in this pic.
  5. Thank you for the fast response, I didnt know that they would test the water for me. I will try to go down to the pet store as soon as possible with a bag of this water and tap water and post the results later.. thank you.
  6. Is your goldfish suffering or resemble these traits? Please post a picture, with advice. thank you
  7. Hello i am new to the Fish keeping hobby and i am loving it. Firstly my tank is 20 imperial gallons, and yes i am saving up for a much bigger tank as soon as possible. Reacently i bought a small common goldfish, it seemed loanly so i bought another common goldfish from a different shop. The new edition had one or 2 blemishes on his side, i thought maybe he was missing a scale or two. There is white spots on his fins and the more i do research on these little fellows , the more i grow concearnd of the new goldfish recently added. He has salt like white spots on his fins, very small but noticable. He is feeding happly and very active. They both are. My other goldie is fine and very happy. They both play/fight/try mating at feeding times.. I have tried to stop this by re-arranging the tank. Anyway i am really worried it may be ich or fin rot, i cannot afford a camera yet to show you guys but i do need help/ advice on meds to buy how to give them it and quarenteen. I do have another tank but it is only small, taking a guess it is 5 gallons, and it is un used. My 20 imperial gallon tank has 2 common goldfish ( just found out they grow massive so am saving up for a second hand 50+ gallon) Within the tank is some gravel , a filter, and some fake plastic plants. The water is very clear, and has been treated before the fish entered this tank. Also the tank was not cycled , im doing it now with the two goldies inside. Please help, if they die i will be so gutted Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Nitrite Level (tank): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Nitrate level (Tank): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Ammonia Level (Tap): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Nitrite Level (Tap): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Nitrate level (Tap): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): Cannot afford this test kit yet * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): Cannot afford this test kit yet Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Cannot afford this test kit yet * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Layal SK 9102 * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Chlorine controle * Water temperature? 72~74 (Kept in a bedroom at room temp) * How often do you change the water and how much? 2 times per week 25% only * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today, around 25% * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20 imperial gallons, 1 week. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 common goldies, 1~2 inch * What do you feed your fish and how often? Supa Daphnia , 3 times a day * Any new fish added to the tank? Yes * Any medications added to the tank? no * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) New fish. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? YES!!! * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? no * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. none * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. Need a camera !!
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