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Everything posted by TorontoBoy

  1. It always makes me a angry when an LED fixture fails. In the race for cheapest price, quality plummets and we get crappy products from China. The technology that is LED should be good for 40,000 hours, or 18 years, but the reality of manufacturing and quality is far from this. LEDs are more complex to make, require not only a transformer but also a resistor in the circuitry. It is not rocket science but it is more complex than a CF bulb. It is hard to fix an LED fixture. The fixture for a CF bulb is dead simple and easy to repair. If your bulb burns out they are replaceable for a reasonable price. In the race for lower quality and price, I recommend a standard fixture with a flourescent bulb. Reliable, inexpensive and repairable. I won't last 18 years, but then again neither did your LEDs, which you got less than 1/18th (5.6%) the rated time.
  2. LEDs usually last approx 50,000 hrs. Your box says 40,000 hrs, which is close enough. This equates to, if lit for 6 hrs/day, to 6666.67 days or 18.25 years. If the circuit boards are dipped in epoxy the lighting should be waterproof. LEDs are also impervious to vibration, making them ideal for truck and vehicular lighting, and other hostile environments. LED quality varies greatly. Cheap LEDs burn out prematurely. If you have a couple of LEDs die, then the LEDs used were defective. If the fixture is flickering then it is the circuit board or wiring. Either way, using it for less than a year is extremely premature for failure.
  3. Mr Hyde, I currently have no goldies that float but I have seen other goldies gulp air and then float. Hypothesis: Some goldies, for whatever reason, gulp air, possibly in an attempt to eat food from the surface This becomes a habitual behaviour, no matter if fed floating or sinking food. This is the corollary to bottom dredging for food, except at the surface. Goldies constantly look for food. Most go looking at the bottom of the tank. Some goldies go to the top, and these become floaters. Use sinking food, no matter what type. Prevent goldies from being able to gulp air from the surface. They will eventually unlearn their habit of surface air gulping, thereby resolving the floaty problem. Goldies are fish that do not need to gulp air. Experiment: Feed sinking food, no matter the type. Cover the complete water surface with thin perforated plastic (1/16"), sufficiently heavy enough to prevent them from breaking the water surface and gulping air. Watch and wait over a 2 day period. If the floaty issue does not resolve then my experiment has failed. If the floaty issue gets positive results continue to keep the perforated plastic on the surface. Your goldies will need to unlearn their habit of surface air gulping. How long this will take depends on your goldies. What are their GIQ (goldie intelligence quotient)? After a sufficiently long time you can then remove the perforated plastic. Note: Adding perforated plastic to the water surface may reduce oxygenation in the water. You will need to monitor this.
  4. Mr Hyde, do your goldies gulp air when they eat? Do they eat at the surface? I am wondering if the extra air is from the surface or if it is gas from the food? Can/do goldies fart? If you have no alternative ideas I could come up with some unique ones.
  5. One is a parasite, and the other a bacterium. You will see different presentations of inflammation etc in the organs. Cyprinidae, sorry for your loss. Were both fish bought at the same time, or from the same store? I have had the same experience with goldies and tropicals. Alex: Would a treatment of salt during QT help with killing off these parasites, viruses and bacteria? I believe salt should at least kill off free floating fresh water viruses and bacteria?
  6. I am unsure if your shrimp tank will give you much of a beneficial bacteria (BB) boost, but it is better than nothing. BB will only grow to the bioload of your tank, and a 5G shrimp tank seems like a very low bioload. 3-4 goldies will create a pooping factory in a hurry, as goldies' digestive systems are relatively inefficient. Before you buy your fish consider filling up and then cycling your tank without fish, instead using ammonia as the bioload. This will take a couple of weeks but will be safer for your fish. You will need a test kit to tell you when your cycle is complete. Only then you can go buy fish. If you buy commons or comets you need not use a heater. All fancies, it seems, require the temps of tropical fish.
  7. For the most part, my Aquaclear harem (7-9, excluding spare parts) has been very well behaved. When noisy I clean them and restart. Sometimes I need to restart a couple of times before it quietens down. All but one have been bought used. In my son's bedroom his AC50 is pretty quiet if we keep the water level high. Splashing noise increases as the water level drops. I am considering doing Shahako's gravity fed pond pump for his bedroom. Her design uses a submerged water pump that slowly flows back into the tank. This outflow can be submerged and should be very quiet. Still, the AC has not been noisy enough for my son to insist on making the pump (I have all the parts). Less splashing noise means less oxygenation of the water, meaning not as good for the goldies. Really, I find an air pump or bubble wall much more noisy than an AC.
  8. As Goldilocks prefers, not too cold and not too hot, so does bacteria. I doubt you will get to the low temps we have here in Canada, where the outside temperatire is currently -13C/8.6F but it is possible. This article covers Autotrophic Nitrifying Bacteria and Temperature. This chart, from the article, summarizes the relationship. If you are already cycled, then you should be able to maintain your cycle in cold water. If you are cycling, then it will take much, much longer to complete. Bacterial growth is exponential, so getting started takes most of the time. My commons are probably in the 60F range, indoor, and their cycle is maintained. Bacteria are very hardy and relatively hard to kill.
  9. A submerged powerhead is really for better water circulation. Some powerheads allow you to add an air line to the output for extra bubbles and therefore oxygen. Cap the intake of the powerhead with a sponge to protect your fish. Consider a bubble wall stretching the length of your tank, placed at the rear and suction cupped down to the bottom, for a wall of a lot of small but constant bubbles. A bubble wall does create a lot of ambient background noise, unfortunately. You can also add a submerged powerhead with its intake in the curtain of the bubble wall, which will shoot small bubbles into the rest of your tank.
  10. There are people with lots of money that can buy anything they want. Then there are people who want to do a lot but have little/no money. I am in this last category. Rethink your equipment by trying to make it yourself. It really is not as hard as it seems. A filter, simplified, requires you to suck water into a waterproof box, pass the water through a sponge, which traps the dirty stuff, then the clean water goes back into the tank. You can buy an aquarium filter that looks pretty, but you can build one yourself that works just as well. Both do it yourself and bought filters require beneficial bacteria, which you grow at home. The only think you need to buy is a pond pump. This is a fan that pushes water from one place to another. If you can find a water fountain, like ones that people use in their front yard that flows water down a sculpture, rip it apart and use the water pump. Your family or your neighbour may have one that they are not using, or no longer works. You can take it apart, clean it and use it in your tank. Others have pointed you to do-it-yourself pumps that work very well. Shahako's pond filter is quite nice. She sometimes uses a plastic flower pot as her container and then puts a real plant on top to make it pretty, so you do not even see the filter. You might need some guidance from an adult. If Dad is unwilling to spend money then he might be willing to help or supervise you to build a pond filter. You both might learn something as well as have fun together.
  11. MTS: Multi-tank Syndrome Famous last words: "I really like those goldfish, Daddy! Can we get 10?". It was all downhill from there! When hobby becomes chore more often than not you will know to slow down.
  12. Hand catching might work well with fancy goldies, but I get the feeling that my common goldies would laugh at me if I did the same. They are lightening fast and excellent swimmers. My small neons are much the same and would be impossible to catch by hand. You could find a piece of perforated plastic the depth of your tank and force your fish to one side, reducing their maneuvering room, but ornaments and such might get in the way. I minimize the amount of handling I do with my goldies. I do not move them for water changes, for example. Only when I have to empty a tank completely, such as to move it, do I remove my fish, and I then use a net. The net is not ideal as it removes some of their slime coat, but this will grow back. I do the catch fast and have everything ready beforehand. Moves are similar to ripping off a bandage after your cut yourself and healed: quick, painful but over before you realize what has happened.
  13. I'm unsure what kind of balls you use, or where you choose put them, but a pellet bag is not where mine reside...
  14. I also feed my goldies Chinese veggies, specifically bok choi (in Cantonese) or bai cai (in Mandarin). I learned this from Tithra's video. I microwave a clean leaf with some water in a bowl for 1 minute, clip it wiht a plastic clip that has a suction cup and attach it to the tank glass. After about 1 day and a half I remove what is left, any longer and the leaf breaks apart and makes a big mess.
  15. So you're saying that your AC110 is acting like a tidal wave machine? That would be very cool! More specifically the intake "U" tube is not seating properly against the filter body, in the area just above the motor and impeller blades. If the "U" tube is a little askew you will get this filling up of the intake tube, a large cascade of water, then air gets into the intake tube (not seated tightly), the water column loses suction, causing the cascade flow to markedly reduce, the pump builds up suction and the water column, and the large cascade happens again.
  16. My commons and comets markedly slow down when the water is in the mid 70s to high 80s (summer), and are much more active when the water is in the 60s. They look like they are conserving energy / going dormant when the water is too warm. Commons and comets are cold water fish, so I try to keep the water cold.
  17. Temperature might be your issue. If your tank is at 60F then growth of BB would be at ~40% of the optimal rate, according to the chart in the link. You could try growing BB in another tank that is warmer, then transfer the biomedia into the axolot tank, where it does not need to grow but simply to survive.
  18. So to be clear let me recap: to reduce the bubbling noise you reduce the flow. To reduce the flow you raise the bucket? If you put the output tube into the water does it not make the flow silent?
  19. This is not an Aquaclear problem but a biomedia issue. Beneficial bacteria grow exponentially, so it takes a long time to start it, and then it snowballs. You may want to raise the temperature of your tank with a heater. Bacteria grow faster in warmer environments. You can add more biomedia by adding an air stone in an enclosed container, with the air bubbles traveling up and through the biomedia. I used an inverted ketchup bottle for this: -rinse ketchup bottle, drill holes into the base of bottle, drill into one face of the bottle, add suction cups -add ceramic biomedia until almost full -drill a hole into neck of bottle and add air stone, airline -drill top of ketchup bottle and screw into bottle -invert and start pump Or you can use a sponge filter
  20. I am in error. My sea salt is $0.50/lb, $2/2kg. From Portugal.
  21. ??? You have an aquarium, you are an aquarist. You can shop at an aquarium store, or as we say local fish store (LFS). Shopping at the LFS is specific to your hobby. You will certainly get fish stuff at the LFS, no doubt. For these goods at the LFS, specific to your aquarium, you know it is Ok for your fish. They buy specific aquarium stuff at low volume, and therefore higher prices, which they charge you. Salt is not specific to aquariums, and is used in a variety of forms. Aquarium salt is definately safe for your fish, but if you have the knowledge, which you can learn from this and other forums, you can easily buy other versions of salt that are just as safe for fish but not labelled "safe for aquarium use". I use sea salt, safe for aquarium use, that I buy at the grocery store for $1/lb. I use the same salt for my pasta sauce and other dishes. Filter floss is another fish specific item that is expensive for what it is. FIlter floss is polyester fiberfill, the stuff that they put into pillows, blankets, stuffed animals, furniture, etc. I buy my "filter floss" from Walmart, and even bypassing the local fabric store. Any excess "filter floss" I have I use as padding when I reupolster my chairs. If you are rich you can simply buy hobby-specific items and I approve of this, as it helps our LFS. If you are not rich, as I am not, you need to be inventive or you may do without.
  22. A powerhead is certainly a water pump, as is a fountain pump. They all use electricity and a propeller (impeller) to take in water and, using electricity, push it faster out the other end. Powerheads may also have extra features and their connections may not allow you to connect them to output tubes, but they act exactly the same as a water pump. The powerhead I have has a square output tube, so I would need to make this square into a circle before I can use it as a water pump, but it would work. Some powerheads have prefilters, and some water pumps do as well. Water pumps are also marked with how high they can pump water above the surface. Not all powerheads have this information. If you are looking for a water pump to push water 12" above the surface of your water, this information is important so you will buy a powerful enough pump. It is easier to pump water when the pump is under water than trying to pump water above the surface, and over the side of your tank, for example. Your GPH would certainly be less when pumping above the surface of the water. Water pumps/powerheads/fountain pumps are all fun to play with, and I often have at least one in each tank. The fish like it and it helps circulate water in the tank.
  23. If your QT is a standard 10G then it would be easier on your goldie to siphon 2 buckets (total 6G) and add salt to each bucket individually, ensuring that the salt is completely dissolved. I don't see any benefit to removing your goldie for a daily water change. Moving your goldie has inherent risks, such as excessively removing some of the slime coat due to handling, the possibility of dropping the goldie on the floor, or the goldie panicing and doing a seppuku-style jump (comets and commons). All that movement will freak out your goldie, resulting in greater stress and therefore increased susceptability to disease. QT is supposed to be a calming place for recuperation and restoration. Think enclosed room with pink walls and calm sea side sounds.
  24. How big is your QT? I usually leave my fish in the tank, and siphon out the required buckets of old water. I then prepare the new water in a bucket, where you can add the exact amount of Prime and salt. I swish it with a net, and the salt usually dissolves completely within 30 seconds. The water then goes into the tank. This guarantees your salt is completely dissolved and you need not traumatize your goldie by moving him.
  25. Plumbing hot and cold water with a sink into your fish room would make water changes easier. You already have a drain nearby. I would also consider adding GFCI protection to your wall outlets. In a fish room you could have a single large air pump to run all your tanks' needs.
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