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  1. Thought I would give another update and have another question... My Goldfish is doing a little better. She has put on weight and the part of her tail that got torn off during the ultrasound is healed and starting to grow back. She will sleep, on occasion, on her belly, but if stressed or after a bout of swimming, still flips upside down. We have noticed over the past 2 days she has spent most of her time on her side and not upside down. Do you think this is a good sign? I am not sure how recovery would work and if she would slowly correct her orientation as she heals, or if it should be as sudden as it came on. We have kept her in a 29 gallon tank with only 5.5 in of water so she doesn't have to work as hard to get to the surface. We do 100% water changes every day, and have been giving her mild salt baths while we change the water. She gets multiple, very small, meals a day. I was reading that the swim bladder is connected to the GI tract and metabolism causes CO2 to enter the swim bladder. I was curious if there would be a good way to give her a probiotic to help replace the gut flora that we may have killed during the metronidazol treatment? would that be helpful? My last idea is I have located a hyperbolic chamber. The vet had mentioned when they get benthic fish from the ocean and want to bring them to be kept in an aquarium, they slowly transition them to the right pressure in a hyperbolic chamber so that their swim bladders dont burst. We were contemplating if we could possibly use this idea for the opposite idea, and take her to a lower pressure so as to help it inflate...I was curious if anyone else has ever come across a theory like this (I know it is a bit odd) So far she has been upside down for just about 4 weeks, has anyone else tried to wait out recovery on a swim bladder issue? how long did it take your fish to recover? If it is permanent, is it reasonable to keep her in the current set up as long as she is eating and healthy (aside from her orientation)? or would that constitute a quality of life issue? I would love to hear other opinions. Thanks a bunch!
  2. Update: Hello everyone, my goldfish has been on metronidazole for a week now (which means she has been upside down for two weeks). I decided to take her into the vet, today. They performed an ultrasound on her and commented that not only is she full of roe, and probably egg bound, but they also said they could not locate her swim bladder (an organ that is generally the predominant organ in the abdomen). the vet wasn't really sure what to do for her. Has anyone else ever had any experience with a deflated swim bladder/ egg bound fish? She is still eating and pooping, to some extent, but her condition is deteriorating. She has lost weight and is starting to show signs of scale lose and ripped fins from her constant, upside-down position. The vet thought it was worth giving her more time to see if she will correct it, herself. Any ideas? Thanks!
  3. OK, we got some metronidazole powder, today. The container says to give 100-200 mg (Per 10 gallons- she is currently in a 29 gallon), every 2 days, until symptoms disappear. That seems rather vague... What would you suggest I try as a dose and dosing schedule? when should I do water changes? Thank you so much, everyone, for your kind words and support.
  4. Thanks for the idea. Unfortunately I only have 500mg of metronidazole left I do have a bottle of tylosin, if you think that might work, instead? if not I will send my husband out in search of more metronidazole tomorrow.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I have been having a horrible time getting this tank to settle down and cycle properly. I thought maybe I was doing too many water changes, so I cut back, but then got hair algae (of more like fur) and had to do a major pruning of my plants, which then led to more algae. I have never had so much trouble getting a tank to balance out, before. I worried that after I over fed them I may have had a nitrate spike but I was dumb and didnt test the water before doing another water change. I dont see any obvious external parasites, and her tank mates all look perfectly normal, but I will certainly keep that in mind. She is a bit banged up after last night. she was whirling into the drift wood repeatedly before I could get a new tank set up for her and ended up with quite a bit of damage to her fins and scales. I dont want her to just suffer, but if there is a chance of recovery I also dont want to give up on her. when you say there isnt much hope of recovery, do you mean survival in general? or is there a chance she could live an OK life and eventually be able to compensate to a functional state? I hate watching her like this. it just makes me cry. I do have some tetra parasite guard in the fish cabinet and I have some metronidazole pills for dogs. I could call the vet tomorrow and see if I could get powder (unless it is something I could get at the LFS?)
  6. Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) = .25 ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) = 10 ppm Ph = 7.2 KH = 35.8 ppm GH = 71.6 ppm * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? = API drops * Water temperature? = 74 F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 100 gallons and been running about 6 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval canister filter (406) and Penguin emperor over the back filter * How often do you change the water and how much? I change it at least every other week about 30-40% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? last water change was 2 days ago, and previous change was 1 week before that * How many fish in the tank and their size? 4 goldfish, 2 are under 3 in, one is about 4in, and the sick one is about 5-6 in * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Stress coat, Stress zyme, and leaf zone (for plants) * What do you feed your fish and how often? Repashy soilent green (every day), Blood worms for one meal on sunday, and new life spectrum pellets are the staple diet. They generally get fed twice a day in some combination of these foods and/or I supplement with Repashy community food and veggies or other "snacks" on occasion * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? no * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. none * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? nothing obvious * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? yes OK here is the deal. Following last weeks water change I had a busy morning on monday and instead of feeding their normal repashy, I feed them new life spectrum and accidentally overfed them (not way overboard, but more than I would have liked to give them. When I returned that evening I found my large oranda laying upside down on the floor of the tank. This fish is about 10 years old and has never been sick. I fasted her for 2 days and she was still upside down, so I gave it one more day. on the 4th day I offered her hand feeding of small bits of Repashy soilent green, which she took a very small amount of. After eating she started to perk up a little and spent a day (or at least the morning and evening) upright. then on Saturday she was upside down again. I did another water change and tried to hand feed her but she refused food. On sunday evening she began swimming wildly, bumping into things, ramming the glass and acting as if she was severely disoriented or blind. I decided to put her in a hospital tank, for her own safety, because she had done quite a bit of damage to herself (I was hesitant at first to move her for fear of stressing her more). none of my other fish appear to be ill. So now I am concerned. She has spent the better part of a week, upside down, and now is refusing to eat and acting terribly disoriented when she does attempt to swim. It has been a VERY long time since I have had a "floaty" fish. Does this look like a swim bladder issue? something else? Any suggestions for what I could/should do for her? I live near a veterinary teaching hospital and I am certainly not opposed to contacting them for help, but we are a land locked state and I am honestly not sure how a vet appointment for a stressed out fish would work. does anyone have any experience with that? I love my fish very much. and have had her for a long time. I just want her to be a happy, wiggly fish, again. I hate seeing her so stressed out. Here is a short video of her: Thank you so much for your help!!!
  7. I have been thinking about a sunsun or an aquatop but have read mixed reviews. Do you have one that has a UV sterelizer in it, too? If so, do you like that feature? Buying filters can be so stressful, it is hard to know what to buy and which features you really want/need. I think UV sounds interesting, but not sure how to work it in with all the other filtration on my tank. It seems like the sunsun might be the answer to that...
  8. dnalex, thank you so much for your advice!!! I decided to just go and purchase a quarentine tank for her. So I got a 25 gallon and she is in there now but seems really depressed. If I put my hand next to the glass she will swim over and lay down by it (which is cute, but very sad). She didnt act depressed, at all, in the big tank- I wonder if she is just lonely, or feeling worse. Is there anything I should do for her while I wait for the meds to arrive? I have salt, melafix, prazi and metronidazole on hand...
  9. Thank you so much for your responce. I am sick about the over stocking issue (had no intention of it going on for this long) but I am trying really hard to do frequent water changes and filter maintenance. do you think my water change schedule is OK (every 4 days), would adding another filter possibly help? My Nitrates seem to bounce between 20-40, but I check water chemistry every other day, so if they do, I can add an extra water change if necessary. 1. As far as filter maintenance, I have Ceramic "stars" and various sponges (egg crate, "normal fluval sponge", and filter floss) in my canister filter. I rinse the media in there about once a month with cool, de-chlorinated water and change out the filter floss when it looks gunky. My Penguin filter has Bio-max (ceramic rings) and a bio wheel, plus the pre-made carbon/sponge cartridges that are made for the filter. I change these outh every 2-4 weeks but they atleast get rinsed every 2 weeks (depends on how gunky they look). Should I change something up, here? 3. My Water comes out of the tap super soft and acidic. It is terrible! I thought, perhaps, this was the reason for the film on the two little orange one's heads ( due to extra slime coat associated with improper osmotic balance or some such silliness that I convinced myself of), so I started using a buffer that I got at the LFS (it is a seachem product called Alkaline Buffer which is supposed to be safe for planted tanks). I am pretty nervous about using it and have very slowly been trying to raise the pH in the tank. Before using the buffer the tank Ph could drop below 6.0. Since using it, my KH, GH, and Ph are a little higher and more stable. Just a quick Question, do you think the white in the creases on the two little orange fish are ulcers too? they do not have any red patches like my Lemon Oranda. Thanks again!
  10. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): 0 * Nitrite Level (tank): 0 * Nitrate level (Tank): 20 * Ammonia Level (Tap):0 * Nitrite Level (Tap): 0 * Nitrate level (Tap): 0 * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 6.8 (KH is 40, GH is 120) * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 6 (KH and GH are 0) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API strips * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Penguin 330 and Fluval 305 (590 gallons/ hour- cycle tank 11.8 times) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Stress coat, stress zyme, Leaf zone, Potassium supplement, Buffer (for Ph, KH and GH) * Water temperature? 78 F * How often do you change the water and how much? every 4 days, alternating 30% and 50%. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Water change 4 days ago and was about 1/3 the tank, then again today I did 50% change * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55 gallons. The tank has been running for 15 years but was moved a several months ago. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 5 goldfish (most are very small, one is about 5-6 in) 2 clown plecos (about 1") and 2 bushy nose plecos (about 1.5") * What do you feed your fish and how often? In the morning they get a food I make by soaking their pelleted food (mix of a couple different high end gold fish pellets) and adding gelatin so it is sort of like a gel food. Then for dinner they eat Repashy soilent green. They also get frozen bloodworms once a week. * Any new fish added to the tank? 1 fish added over a month ago * Any medications added to the tank? no * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? all fish are active, acting npormal and eating * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. About 2-3 months ago I did treat for Ick. I am not convinced it was Ick, but felt it was better safe then sorry. I am having trouble with the 3 goldfish I have that have Wens. (2 orandas and a lionhead) My large oranda had some strange wen growth about a month ago, where a section of her wen grew unsymetricaly large and sticks out funny. Since then she has had some white spots that seem to come and go on her wen. Here is a picture that shows the weird "wen growth spurt": Is it normal for this to happen? I havent ever seen one of my goldfish have wen growth that sticks out like this. It was weird because before it happend it looked a little red underneath like she had excessive blood flow to the area and then after it finished growing, that went away. It never looked like a sore or irritated. My husband and I went out of town for 1.5 days and as a result they were not fed for 1 day (I figured a fasting day wouldnt hurt them). When we came back she has a couple red spots that look like they may be pimples (there isnt an indentation or sore like with hole-in-the-head,from what I can tell). It looks like a bunch of broken blood vessels under the surface, and then the skin on top looks a little raised and white. Here are a couple pictures: Any idea what this is? Should I worry? treat it? how? Then.... My baby oranda and lionhead both have a white 'film" looking deal going on with their wen's. Here is a picture of them: I have noticed that the "white-ness" in the creases of their wen seems to come and go over the last few weeks. Is this something that is normal? or is it a sign of disease? are the wen issues of all three somehow related? Like I said, above, they are all active, acting normaly, eating, etc... My Ryukin's do not show ANY signs of disease and on the three with a wen, it is only localized to the wen itself with no abnormalities anywhere else on their bodies. As far as treatment goes, I would need to come up with the best plan as I have some problems: 1. The tank is planted so I need to pick a treatment that wont kill them, or come up with an alternate plan for my plants. 2. I do not have access to my other tanks which are in storage in another city (until we get our new house) so that means I either need to treat the whole tank or purchase a QT tank which would be a decent sized expense that I would rather not take on. 3. My large oranda is about 6" long, if I did need a QT tank for her, how big does it need to be? **I am going to say, right now, I know my tank is over stocked. We are currently in temporary houseing and will be closing on our new home in 2 weeks. The fish have been in a smaller tank for longer then I would like (took us much longer to find a new house then I anticipated) but they were mostly doing fine until recently. I did place my larger fish in other homes when I realized we would not be able to set up the other/bigger tanks soon enough, but hoped this group could make it until we can get them back into their real tanks.** Thanks for any advice or ideas, I appreciate it. I feel bad that they are in cramped quarters, right now, and I want to do the best I can for them. They just need to make it a few more weeks... I have spent a lot of time researching on the internet trying to figure out what is going on, but so far I havent been able to narrow it down. I guess my best guesses are fungal, bacterial, parasitic, or normal wen growth. So ya, I would love some opinions form those of you who know a lot more then me, because I just feel frusterated and worried and dont want to treat my goldfish based off my poor diagnosis.
  11. I have anubias, Java fern, Ludwiga, anacharis, crypt's, Val, and swords On the bright side, my little Ranchu ate dinner like a champ, tonight and has been very social and active all afternoon. I think I may have freaked out a little too early. I will look into my pH though and order some Prazi to have on hand. The pH has been worrisome to me for a while, but I wasn't really sure what to think/do about it. I hope the water at our new house will be a little harder. Thanks everyone
  12. Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I will try and get a video but my camera died while I was taking the original pictures (or I would have gotten a video then) so I need to buy more batteries for it. The little guy has come out from under the log and has been swimming around with his new buddies, quite actively, for a while now. Perhaps he is adjusting to the new environment and just didnt handle the stress as well as I am used to seeing. It is also clear, he does struggle with the current, more then the other fish do. I tried turning the out-put for my fluval along the back wall (instead of out into the tank) any ideas how I could reduce this current? I realize my tank is overstocked, currently, but it is temporary. And I hoped to limp along with frequent water changes for a couple months. It was supposed to have less goldfish in there, but my husband bought me two as a surprise and then I have been trying to get one of the LFS's in my area to order me a Ranchu or Lionhead for over a year, and finally one did (of course it wasnt the best timing). We have an offer in on a new house, right now, so hopefully it will be accepted and they can get a nice 125 gal, in March. As far as the pH goes, I have been worried about that too. I dont know why the water is so soft and acidic in this area. Everywhere else we have lived in the state I have the opposite problem. I thought, perhaps, my test strips were off but I bought new ones and they say the same thing. I have always been told not to mess with pH for goldfish, because they are pretty adaptable and the buffers can "stop working" and cause large pH swings which are worse then consistent pH. I would love to hear more about your opinions on that. I have not noticed any flashing, rubbing, or excessive yawning but I will keep an eye out. Will the salt and Prazi hurt my plants? If so, then I probably need to purchase another tank, anyway. If only the hubby loved my fish as much as I do... :/
  13. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank):0 * Nitrite Level (tank):0 * Nitrate level (Tank): 20-40 (this is a planted tank) * Ammonia Level (Tap):0 * Nitrite Level (Tap):0 * Nitrate level (Tap):0 * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): pH=6-6.5, KH=40, GH=120 * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines):pH=6.5-7, KH=40, GH=0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API strips- which is why I gave ranges for some values The color looks to be between 2 values. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? I have a Fluval 305 Canister, And a Penguin Emperor, external filter (cycles through tank 13 times per hour) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Stress coat, stress Zyme, Leaf Zone, Seachem Potassium (trying to get rid of green spot algea issue) * Water temperature? 74-76 (mostly due to my lighting) * How often do you change the water and how much? around every 4 days I change about 50% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 1 day (30%) and then 3 days before that (50%) * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55 Gallon- been running for about 15 years, but we moved it 8 months ago, and I added plant substrate to my current gravel a month ago * How many fish in the tank and their size? 5 small ( about 1-2") goldfish, 4 tiny clown plecos (less then 1"), and A long fin neon rosey barb that thinks it is a goldfish (it was one of those things where I needed to stick him in a tank, temporarily, and now 6 years later he is still living in that tank) * What do you feed your fish and how often? They get a Gel food that I make up that consists of a couple different high end pellets (soak them until mush, add gelatin and a little baby food and probiotics), Repashy Soilent Green, Frozen blood worms once or twice a week, and an array of fresh foods as supplemental treats. they are feed 2-3 times a day (some days I am not home to give them lunch) * Any new fish added to the tank? All are new-ish. they span the course of the last 2 months. The Lionhead is the newest, we got him last night. * Any medications added to the tank? Treated for Ick about 2 weeks ago (I am not convinced I had it, but wanted to be safe) * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? The lionhead's tail fin has a single split in it, so a very minor tare/fraying. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? The Lionhead seems to be exhausted and is hanging out on the bottom of the tank quite a bit. He gets up and moves around for a while and then goes back to "catching his breath" When he gets up to swim it seems like such a challenge with soooo much extra body wiggling to get around. It seems like he needs to exert a lot of extra effort and energy to get around. Also when I have feed the fish he doesnt really go after the food and seems to engage in very minimal foraging behavior. Since this tank is pretty newly re-stocked I didnt worry about a quarantine tank as they are all in quarantine, IMO. I also realize they will outgrow the tank, but I think they will be fine for now (they are so small and I plan on buying a larger tank by July). All the fish seem perfectly happy and healthy except this new little lionhead. I have never had a lionhead before ( Or he could be a ranchu, honestly I am not sure how to tell the difference) so I am not sure if it is normal for them to act this way? I realize he is just a little round potato of a fish with very little in the fin department, so I would assume swimming might be challenging. I dont really see an obvious sign of infection (aside from the split on his fin which I am guessing was from handling him during shipping). any ideas? I am wondering if the 55 gallon might be too much for him? Perhaps he needs a smaller tank until he gets a little bigger/stronger? (of course I dont have a small tank right now, so that means buying one. We are trying to buy a new house so we put our tanks in storage while we are staying in a temporary set up-silly me) Or maybe he is just stressed from moving in and I need to let him adjust? I just worry because he didnt seem this exacerbated at the LFS. PS- please look past the GSA on the glass, I am working on it, but for some reason after the ick treatment we got a bit of an algal bloom.
  14. Thanks! I am actually surprised they are still working too! But I never replaced the bulbs after buying the hoods and they are at least that old. My photoperiod is about 11 hours, on a timer.
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