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Everything posted by FredTheGoldfish

  1. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  2. Great job with the waterfall! I love watching this video, it's so lovely and peaceful.
  3. Thanks. Unfortunately, Ruby didn't make it. I decided to keep Treasure in QT for another 2 weeks to make sure he/she is healthy and didn't catch whatever Ruby was sick with.
  4. Today's update: Ruby has been floating up and down at the back of the tank. She ate her breakfast and then headed back to just floating. During my morning water change, I gently put Ruby into a small beta tank cube. She floated to the top and lay on her side. When I tapped the cube, she righted herself and swam around a bit. She's breathing really slowly. I made the choice to move Treasure (who has shared the QT tub with Ruby, and is looking very happy and healthy) into the main tank with Skippy today. That way, Ruby can be on her own in QT. Also, as a last-ditch effort, I added a packet of API general cure to the QT tub. Ruby perked up just a little bit, and swam around a bit. I don't expect her to recover, but my kids are begging me to keep trying anyways...
  5. I do have some API General Cure, and I'm wondering if that would help in the meantime? I think it's just powder with metronidazole and prazi.
  6. Tonight's update: Ruby is floating up and down at the back of the tank today. Her fins and tail are droopy. She's only swimming to the front at feeding time. I can see her look up at me with her big sad puppy eyes as I hold the pea for her. She still eats it right out of my hand. She's such a sweetie... I ordered the MetroMeds, but they won't arrive to sometime late next week. Please hold on until the medicine arrives, Ruby!
  7. That's what I was afraid of. I'll keep a close eye on her this evening and let you know if there's any change, but I'm not sure what more I can do for until I get the MetroMeds (or whatever medicine she needs.) We knew when we bought her that she might be sick, but we wanted to give her a better home than the pet store, even if she doesn't make it...
  8. Well, she's looking a bit worse this afternoon (still just floating at the back, facing away, head high, dorsal fin droopy.) What other symptoms should I look for if it's flukes?
  9. Okay, thanks. And no, I don't have a scale. Where can I find one?
  10. The poo at the bottom of the tank is light brown and short (less than an inch long.) I will order the MetroMeds, thanks. When they arrive, what do I do with them?
  11. Here's a video of Ruby at the back of the quarantine tub on day 10 of her "new fish" QT (with Treasure swimming at the front). Ruby was more active in her first week, but she's been hanging out quietly near the back for the past 3 days. She does swim up to the front for food and eats well. I've been feeding Ruby and Treasure small sinking pellets (3-5 each twice daily.) They've also eaten a few bloodworms, a few peas, and a bit of cucumber. I do a 100% water change every day. They're being treated with .1% salt and Prazi (they're on their second round of Prazi) in a 10-gallon tub. Should I be worrying about Ruby, or just leave her alone back there? Also, she had a few missing scales when I bought her from PetSmart 10 days ago. Should I add Stress Coat to help her with that? Or should I separate her from Treasure, who appears healthy? They were bought together from the same tank at PetSmart. Ruby's such a dear, sweet fish. I really hope she makes it. http://vid1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag212/Jeannette_Deen/RubyinQT_zps31a0343c.mp4
  12. I have a horned nerite snail from Chelsea and if you can respect that it takes them longer to clean your plants then they are a great little algae eating machine I must say I'm not really partial to snails, even if they do eat the algae. We have to deal with them ravaging our strawberries in our garden. They are so destructive and impossible to get rid of. Luckily, I've never had to deal with them in our fish tank.
  13. Thanks, I will definitely disinfect them! Should I use a mild bleach solution, or might that kill the new plants?
  14. Good to know, thanks! My anubias are looking a bit better today.
  15. Thanks for all your plant suggestions! I'm going to take this list to PetSmart. Our local store has a great selection of aquatic plants, so hopefully I can find something. My current plants were anubias, java ferns, and a marino ball. So far, the fish have left these alone. I've bought anacharis a few times, but they disappear within a week.
  16. Thank you for the ray of hope. I haven't thrown them out yet, as I was hoping they still might revive. I guess I could put them back into the tank overnight and check on them in the morning. Thank you for your kind words of support, and for the good news about the algae. Is 1 1/2 years considered new for a tank setup? Also, which plants are fast-growing? I'm heading to PetSmart tomorrow to buy some more.
  17. Oh man, I'm so mad at myself. I did something really stupid with my plants. Now all their leaves are wilted and curled up. I guess I'll be buying new plants tomorrow. I started off well, by setting up the chorine bath to wash my plants, and then gently scrubbing their leaves and rinsing them, just like in Helen's video. The plants looked great and I got most of the black off them. I thought this might be a good opportunity to super-glue my freshly-washed plants to my river rocks, since I'm tired of tucking the roots of each plant under a river rock in the tank after every water change. So I superglued the plants and they looked great attached to the rocks. Then I remembered I had to take my daughter to gymnastics, so I left the newly-glued plants out for the glue to dry. An hour later, we returned home to see all my plants limp and their leaves curled up. I hastily put them back into the bucket (already dosed with Prime) but it was too late. I didn't realize that leaving the plants out of water for an hour would kill them. I think they only eat green algae, but I've never had black algae so I can't confirm that; it's just what I've read. When I added my BN pleco to my new tank, all the algae that had accumulated was gone in 3 days. But it was green algae. I sure do like that little guy. [emoji1] It looks like brown algae, which over time will turn black. And bristlenose plecos love brown algae . . . I wondered about that. The algae did originally look brown before the black appeared on the leaves.Do you have a close-up pic of the algae growing on the leaf? I am thinking it's either brown (diatoms) or black (black beard/black brush) algae. Different types of algae-eating fish target different types of growth, and even if adding such a fish is not an option given tank-size restrictions, it would still help to identify it because the treatment method may depend on the type of algae you have. I do agree that limiting the photoperiod, preferably with the aid of a timer for precision and convenience, is the best place to start. How old is your tank? Diatoms are most common in newer tanks; however, my boyfriend still struggled with them in his 2-year-old 55 gallon (which happens to be next to a window, like yours). It was a major nuisance - we would scrub the tank and do a 95% water change every week, but come next week the walls would be covered in the stuff again! [emoji34] Green algae has appeared in all of our tanks that are NOT near a window, but never in the tank that has diatoms (perhaps diatoms, when present, outcompete green algae for resources; I'm not sure). We have a rubbernose pleco in the 55 gal now, and he has eaten a good chunk of the diatoms. The BN pleco took no interest, so we moved him to my tank, where he completely decimated the green algae that had taken hold. [emoji4] I also wanted to warn you against using any sort of algicide, as they can be very toxic to fish. Many stores will promote them as a great solution, but unfortunately these products have been known to kill fish along with the algae. [emoji17] Sorry, I didn't take a close-up photo before "cleaning" them today. The algae growth on the leaves was flat, not fuzzy, so I think they were diatoms? My tank has been running for 1 1/2 years. The plants were all 1 1/2 years old, too (I cycled the tank with them.) I would never use an algicide in a tank with live fish--I wouldn't want to take the chance of harming them. And now I'm thinking that I'll just replace all my plants with plastic or silk ones. They should be much easier to clean.
  18. I think they only eat green algae, but I've never had black algae so I can't confirm that; it's just what I've read.When I added my BN pleco to my new tank, all the algae that had accumulated was gone in 3 days. But it was green algae. I sure do like that little guy. [emoji1] It looks like brown algae, which over time will turn black. And bristlenose plecos love brown algae . . . I wondered about that. The algae did originally look brown before the black appeared on the leaves.
  19. Thanks for the suggestion. When I upgrade my tank, I'll definitely look into adding more floating plants. I especially like the look of floating duckweed.
  20. Great suggestions, thanks! I have been turning the tank light on from about 10 am - 8 pm (about 10 hours/day) when we're using the office. I can try turning it off around 6 pm and see if that helps. We close the shutters when we're not in the room. Unfortunately, my son and husband spend a lot of their day on computers in that room, so there are not many times during the day when the room is empty. Maybe this would be a good excuse to get my family off their computers and outside more. (I like the idea of saving on our air conditioning bill, too!) Yeah, I am getting used to only having the light on for 7 hours a day. My mom feels bad for the fish and I had to convince her not to turn the light on when I'm at work ... but I don't think the fish are bothered by it. [emoji4]I would highly recommend buying a timer for your light. I use the Coralife timer, which doubles as a power strip ($22.49 at http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11379). Unless you are home most of the day, it's probably not feasible or at least a hassle to remember to turn the light on and off at exact times. The on and off times should be consistent from day to day, but they don't need to coincide with daylight hours. I have my timer set to turn the light on at 5 p.m. and off at midnight because that is when I am home to enjoy my tank. A timer sounds like a great idea! And we already have timers for our Christmas tree lights, so I can try one of them out. Thanks!
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