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Everything posted by le0p

  1. Yes, this is absolutely what I'm asking. I just saw his scales as stretched as they were and thought it kind o looked like that. I've never had a fish do it before so I wasn't sure.
  2. They're only fed a couple pinches once in the morning. The food never lasts more than a couple minutes. I'll cut that down a bit and see what happens.
  3. I have no idea if it's a male or female. I'll have to fill out the form later, I just moved and I don't have my test kit handy. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? 70 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 110 gallons (the tank itself is 55 gallons but it's connected to another tank and a sump, in all there's 110 gallons of water flowing through the system) * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 30 gallon sump * How often do you change the water and how much? I usually just do top offs and I haven't had a problem yet. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? It's been about a month. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 5 goldfish (medium size), 3 african clawed frogs (in the other tank, full grown), 3 cory's (small) and 2 clown loaches (small) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seachem Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Fed once a day, New Life Spectrum, large fish formula, Omega one goldfish pellets, omega one algae wafers * Any new fish added to the tank? No, not for months. * Any medications added to the tank? No, never had a sick fish. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Belly looks abnormally huge. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? A few weeks ago, my wife woke me up saying he was swimming upside down. He was completely upside down but by next morning he was fine; Thanks! I'll try and get some water params in asap.
  4. Hey, I'm just looking to see if something looks wrong here. My oranda is HUGE and seems to be a little too big. His skin looks almost stretched to the limit. Here's some pics: Thanks for the help! I just want to know if this needs to be treated or not.
  5. All of what Tithra said! and... Try crushed coral for calcium and (don't quote me on this cause I haven't looked at it in awhile) help raise gh/kh by constantly adding minerals. It will raise PH though, I used it in a tank with low PH issues and afterwards it stayed at 7.8 constantly, never fluctuating and my water had a value of 1 kh. I tried cuttle bones a couple times but they will actually rot, so you have to watch them, and weigh them down or anchor them, they float.
  6. Actually, apple snails aren't known for their algae eating skills. They like leftover fish food, vegetables, and decaying plant matter more, Check out applesnail.net fot tons of info on these guys, I believe they are of the Bridgisii (sp?) variety. There's a forum as well dedicated to food.
  7. Could be the PH. Mystery snails need calcium and a higher PH (7ish, if i remember correctly) to build their shells and keep them healthy. They also need food, so if there's not a lot extra in the tank, adding some might help. I had 4 mystery snails die on me due to PH problems.. everyone else was fine in the tank but the PH was around 6 and their shells slowly eroded and they died. They started off very healthy, mated constantly, but the erosion got to all of them. I had no idea at the time
  8. Commons are great, I have two that have been with me since I saved them from the mouth of my hungry frogs. They're SO big now, great fish.
  9. Update! I upgraded the overflow from tank to tank. Now running dual overflows tank to tank and have both overflows draining to the sump. I turned the pump to max and it's hard to say for sure but I'm guessing the flow is now little less than 1100 gph, based on head pressure. here's a pic of the new set up:
  10. Thanks! The stands took the longest. Each stand took one day to put together the frames then it took a couple weekends to cut all the plywood, stain everything, then do the same for the molding since I got busy during the week. Once the stands were finished, I got the whole system in place and supposed to be functioning.in a couple hours. However, I had a problem with the pump. The instructions were vague and I had to call them to figure out why the pump wasn't pumping. Turns out, if the pump isn't pulling from a bulkhead under the water line, the plumbing has to be done a certain way. So, I had to re-do all the plumbing for the pump which took another day. All together, about a month start to finish, but less if I didn't have a stupid job Once it started working though everything was easy.. I played with the pump a little to get the most out of the overflows but other than that it's worked flawlessly. Going to post some Fish pics today!
  11. Some more photos: The whole deal: The 55: The 40: Some plumbing and some pics: Sump: Connection from 55 to 40: Overflow to sump: Pump to tank connections:
  12. Thanks! I made all the stands too, I forgot to mention that... first time I made anything!
  13. Hey all, just wanted to post an update on my goldfish and tanks. My previous tank was this guy: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/107530-my-grow-out-tank-20h-potted/?hl=le0p#entry1405603 I had to upgrade with 4 goldies in there and only 20 gallons so I set out on a journey. I decided to do something different and came up with this: A two tank sump system with a 55 gallon goldie tank and my 40 breeder African Clawed Frog tank. The tanks are connected via HOB overflow and drains to the 29 gallon sump via HOB overflow, powered by a reeflo blowhole 1100 pump. The lights are all home made, I bought all the parts and wired everything, built the stands and painted the shades. It took me a lot longer and cost a lot more than I wanted but I'm happy with the ending. I will probably upgrade one of the overflows soon as it's limiting the system to around 800 gph and the pump can easily do 1000. This is the goldfish tank: And the whole system together: The tanks have a lot of growing to do as I pulled almost everything from the previous tanks and weeded out the algae covered stuff, or things I didn't want, and replaced with new plants. The frog tank has an especially long way to go but it was in bad shape when I redid it. I am considering trying to carpet the goldfish tank, but I'll need to do research to see if that will be possible, given the goldies taste for vegetation. Since they weren't being very photogenic, I'll list my goldifsh friends. There are two comets that I saved from froggie dinner that have been with me the whole way (they're so big now!). There's a telescope, a ryukin and a brand new grey and gold oranda. Sadly, my old oranda "Kenny Powers" died tragically in a tank accident. I had a screen top to keep my frogs in and it fell in overnight knocking the spraybar into the water and suffocating all the fish in the tank.
  14. Thanks, I;m going to be using weir style overflow boxes most likely with aqualifter pumps to ensure they restart. I had planned on drilling all the tanks but the wife put up strong opposition to such a thing. I have an old old old tank that I might just drill to show it's not impossible and maybe change her mind.
  15. I was able to get a nice 55 gallon and stand off CL recently so my goldies are getting an upgrade from their 20 gallon home. I'm moving in two weeks and BROKE, so I've been working on solutions to ease the wallet pain. This is what I've come up with: The system will run side by side, I have two stands but they don;t match much and the wife wanted something that was cohesive.Thus, I'm starting to build a 7 foot x 2ft (at the widest point) to have plenty of room for both tanks and a sump underneath. Basically, I'll be using the 40B as a sump refugium to start. It already has mega filtration and I'll plant a ton of fast growing plants in there. It will still house my three african clawed frogs. Once I assemble the pieces for the lower sump (just need a pump, overflow and the baffle work), the top flow will stay the same except it will overflow into the lower sump and then be returned the the 55. I drew up a couple diagrams to help (me) understand the workings... When the sump gets set up in a little while, it'll look like this: \ For the stand, this is currently my design specs, construction should start in a week or two. Just excited to get it started, so I got a build thread going. Definitely looking for criticism and improvements, so please commemt! Thanks!
  16. I prefer canisters personally. In my opinion, the maintenance is easier. Everything is under the cabinet, just disconnect the hoses and take it to the tub or sink, and the canister volume is so much greater than there's not as much need to clean as often. I am probably alone on this but i only clean my canister when the flow drops (which may take several months). I feel that changing your media on a monthly basis is a good way for the filter companies to make money. I change it when it disintegrates. But then again, I only use bio-media in my filters and I run combinations of sponges and canisters so the sponges usually do a lot of mechanical filtration (run by powerheads at least). I don't think there's anything wrong with HOB's but if I had to make the choice, i'd always choose a canister.
  17. You're right, I was a little black and white about it. I have read a lot about this as well but came to the understanding that while important, it's not as important as par since most lights include some intensity in the proper spectrums even though it's not dominant. I'll definitely check out that document. Thanks! Any high intensity light will produce algae if you don't control the photo-period, nutrients and co2 levels properly. I've certainly never had an algae problem that didn't result from my own mistake, like not replacing a broken timer and forgetting to turn the lights off at the right time for a week. Soon as that's fixed, the problem goes away. I have more algae problems with the high intensity 5000K CFL over my 20 gallon than either of my reef lights. It's a personal preference more than anything, if you find lights that give you a look you like and are strong enough for the plants you want to grow, they can work.
  18. I disagree with this based on my research and experience having two tanks with reef spectrum lights. Plants only care about the level of PAR (Photosyntetically Active Radiation) they get, not the spectrum. The spectrum has to do with how the plants and fish look to us. Freshwater plant keepers generally don't like reef spectrums because the whites (10,000K-12,000K) look bluer than than freshwater spectrums (5000-6500K). Personally, I like the crisp white light that reef whites offer. The biggest thing to watch is PAR values and it seems that higher kelvin ratings require more power to produce the same par as a lower rating. But, reef lights are also generally stronger due to the higher PAR needs of coral. So in the end reef lighting tends to be too strong for plants, unless the fixture is suspended higher above the tank. I have a Marineland Reef Capable LED over my 40 Breeder and haven't found a plant that wouldn't grow with it. When I had stems they would need trimming at least once a week or they'd get seriously out of hand, my light is also suspended 10" above the tank. I have since moved to an all crypt tank and had to use window screen to diffuse the light to a lower level. Above my 5g CHI, I have an Ecoxxotic EcoPico LED and it's the same thing, everything grows great and I have to constantly remove plants from the tank from all the growth.
  19. OMG, this is too much. No one should have the right to that many awesome goldfish! Spread them around please!
  20. I changed the CFL to a 5000K bulb. Thought I'd post a pick and see what everyone thinks of the difference...
  21. Yes! Clay pots are definitely safe and don't disintegrate. Check out my build thread in the planted tank photo section. I did plenty of research setting this up, and it's without a doubt totally safe. However, don't use a pot that's been glazed with a paint of any kind, it may break down and leach into the tank.
  22. Almost all planted substrates are the same, they have high CEC values which just means that they hold nutrients for the plants to use but they are inert to start. ADA substrates are different, and actually do have beneficial properties to plants. They are however very expensive.
  23. Check out some riparium plants! There are some very pretty varieties and if you get them from a reputible seller you can be sure they're safe for use in your filter.
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