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  1. You are very welcome! The long term solution is also a short term issue as without getting the fish out of ammonia right now, healing is compromised. But of course you know that, nothing new. Still nothing left for the end. I am out here, just wanted to help and my advise was good. Up to the reader I guess.
  2. Absolutely but I never recommended that anyway. Such high Ammonia in tap is a serious issue. I think there are more issues with that water than Ammonia only why I think RO or spring water is needed not only because of Ammonia. Taps can be extremely high in organics, mine is more during winter. If Cathy is not using test strips and her kh out of tap is really at 7 there is something going on with that water. Anyway, my very first post agreed with your last post. I couldnt find if Cathy receives city water or well water. I am sure, if its city water she should complain, ring the supplier and get it all tested professionally for free. They have to. If its received as drinking water its way above the limit and cant be safe at all. Things to ask are, what they use to raise ph, if the water gets filtered or only treated. If treated only it will be very high in organics.
  3. Agreed! Don’t think I use that calculation all the time. I only used that in the beginning to figure out certain things and then tested for confirmation. In such situations like this one here it is a great help to figure out how much Ammonia, Nitrate etc. will be reduced after a wc, (unless ones does a 50% wc of course lol) also when Ammonia is present in tap or when ones need to bring up the kh more etc. Once done, its sorted as long as the change water hits the appropriate kh to keep it up in the tank.
  4. Spot on as best as possible which is still accurate enough to do the right thing rather than throwing in baking soda into a tank that may swing easily by1ppm all at once. You say its a great calculation for kh. If I go by your words its also not 100% accurate as I calculate by gdh and the .numbers are not included. Does that makes it inaccurate? No as we dont have to be that accurate to get still a fantastic guide line. And this is all we need. Dataguru did a great job with that and it helped my many many times. Hesitation to use the safer side. To me it is... does it make sense in English... it is hairsplitting.
  5. Have you ever tried this Alex? It is always spot on, also with everyone I advised to do so and that were a lot… putting into consideration that the common ph liquid kits are only measuring a broader range, this is all we need since as you said yourself a bit of a swing is very ok. Yes different water may act differently but this is a fantastic guide to be in a close approximate. From my memory, and you will correct me in this, the swing in the quarantine is higher than the acceptable range and just to add the Ammonia. A ph swing will be tolerated when everything else is fine but in this case its not plus the actually issue with the lesion. I respectfully ask you Alex, when you think raising the ph like this which is clearly safer, why do you hesitate so much but add baking soda straight to the tank? This average is far more unpredictable than the calculation which always matches very well? I hope and think Cathy doesn’t mind this conversation. You know me Alex, such conversations are meant to be productive and should not understood as or turn into an opinionated issue. In this matter I was sharing experiences that worked very well. Nothing wrong to try new things to avoid further stress. To your b. You calculate both, ph and kh and then you compare the baking soda link and then ones has to decide if that is appropriate with the species. It is very well possible; especially since GF live happily in a very wide range of alkaline water. Too easy. It doesn’t matter where everything stops as long as the kh is high enough and ones have zero Ammonia... with GF at least.
  6. They are not flawed as when you use the link provided it will tell you the change based on what you add. The calculations are based on the actual ph, taken from the reading not based on the amount of baking soda. Yes the ph will stop at around 8 to 8.2, some got it up to 8.4 but surely the ph does go up with baking soda. Being without phosphates the ph is not as stable as using phosphate based buffers but the ph will go higher with that and can cause algae problems especially in planted tanks. Regarding the gills, I wrote a question prior the explanation I saw on my fish. Wasnt a diagnose! Based on what Cathys described and from what I saw it could be very well the same thing. And it is something very strange, no one ever could answer what it is. If it is the same thing it wont be possible to take a picture of it unless professionally equiped. (Camera I mean)
  7. Hello everyone, I just would like to give some ideas. I haven’t read all 8 pages but would like to give some ideas which hopefully doesn’t interfere with Kokos protocol and sorry if lots have been said already. Firstly with this Ammonia issue in the quarantine tank the poor fish is so stressed out that it can only harm him instead of helping him healing. If a fish is so compromised there is not much left for him, being strong enough to fight. I see further issues coming if he stays in this situation. His water changes are stressing him out, the ph is fluctuating far too much, I doubt he will handle it much longer. And he is such a darling!!!! The stuff that’s hanging out of his gill is it translucent? Might be a bit of membrane coming from his gills? I had this on a Congo Tetra and Rainbowfish before, never found out why that happened nor did it seem to cause issues. It was just like that all of a sudden. Are you on well or city water? I am a bit dumbfounded that it is even legal in your area to have such high Ammonia. You said it can even go up to 8ppm? Are you using liquid test kits for all tests and your test kits are not expired? I usually don’t use any bottles longer than a bit over a year once opened. I reckon your best bet whilst Ammonia is that high is ordering in bulk spring water and use that for your water changes. A cheaper alternative might be RO water but you would need to treat that water with baking soda, calcium and magnesium. I can give you the doses if needed. It is wrong from your pet shop saying Ammonia will get out after aging. Prime or Amquel will bind toxic Ammonia (NH3) for up to 24 to 48 hours. The idea is that by then your biological filtration has converted it. But with Ammonia of 8 that would be an issue. Keep in mind that with a ph under 7 your toxic Ammonia will be less or even hardly toxic and it will increase the higher the ph. Whilst your fish are safer in an acidic ph and high ammonia, the “good” bacteria wont thrive in an acidic ph so ideally GF and good bacteria need alkaline water. Your mistake was when you put your mature filter in cold water. Bacteria must be acclimatized as much as fish. Large difference in ph and temp will cause a die off. Also, I dont recommend mixing age water with hot and cold water out of tap if your hot water comes from a hot storage unit. It will be very high in heavy metals and we dont really know if that high concentration will be binded by your dechlorinator. I have a heater in my age storage tank... What I actually would like you to do is aging a bucket of tap water and aerate it with an air stone to get CO2 out. Use only your dechlorinator. Test ph, kh and gh (liquid test kits) once filled, then 12 hours later and so on for few days. Write down numbers and post back. Although the water will react differently in an environment that has fish in it you will still get an idea. I can imagine that your tap water is so high in organics naturally that this may be one reason for such a quick reduction of your buffer (kh). To me it sounds your water is evil and you may want to consider a long term alternative to your tap. Do you drink your tap? If not, what you don’t drink yourself, you don’t want to use for your fish either. Another alternative would be to age your change water for 5 days or so, you ll need to check it yourself and run a filter with polyfilter from Biomarine. That will take out Ammonia, organics etc. but it wont be cheap really as the polyfilter needs to be replaced rather quickly. Here is a calculation I always use to determine the swings with a water change if needed. Say you do a water change of 80%. 20% of water in your tank has a ph of 6.6 80% of change water has a ph of 7.8 20 x 6.6 divided by 100= 1.32 80 x 7.8 divided by 100= 6.24 6.24 + 1.32 = 7.56 ph after the water change. You do that with everything. KH 20% kh of 0 20 x0 / 100 = 0 80% kh of 125.3 (1gdh = 17.9, your kh is 7gdh) 80 x 7 / 100= 5.6 0+ 5.6 = 5.6 kh after water change. So you do need to buffer your change water with baking soda no matter what. To get a kh of 8 in your tank you need to add baking soda to your 80% change water. I personally don’t like to add baking soda straight into the tank as you don’t have the power to control the swings. A ph should not swing more than 0.4ppm a day and if it constantly goes up and down it’s a nightmare for fish. So I add it to aged water to have the control. This link will help you to figure out how much baking soda you need depending on your water volume. http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp Another helpful link, tho Koko might have something similar? http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html It may be overwhelming for you right now but once in mind its easy and I am happy to help you to calculate if you give me numbers of liters of gal or whatever you desire! I would get your fish out of this quarantine disaster and like Alex said a divider is a good option if others are picking on him. In my opinion he needs a time out of water quality issues. Once you tested your water in a bucket and you get a better idea what your future plan is on your tap water we get a better picture to sort that issue out!? Regards, Silke
  8. Hi Alex and thank you! I am glad to hear that you found the same...although along with bloodworms. mwha. (joking, surely nothing wrong with that) I just wished I would have gone with supergreen alone earlier. But then again we still dont know what the real cause was. Will be interesting to see how my remaining fish will do now. My last fish died 2 weeks ago, the other one 3.5weeks ago. I ll keep you all posted. And yes that would be nice forwarding my request to Helen. Thanks again!
  9. Thank you for your compassion Tithra! How quick you were answering....
  10. Hi guys, Thought I give an update. Two more fish died. Heartbreaking, also because my sons (5years) favorite fish died. It took some time to get over it for both of us. Until then I was feeding them soilent green at pm and supergreen at am. They all died in the same way. So now I have two fish left in my 400liter tank. Since the last one died I have been feeding them supergreen exclusively along with treats of frozen krill as despite Rainbowgardens article I believe krill has more to offer. Both of my remaining fish are stunted, they were stunted right from the start and those are at least 3 to 4 years old. My really small Oranda used to float under the surface, after spinach he would often sit nose down on the gravel. Since supergreen exclusively he is active like never before, no more need of spinach. My Pearly that used to have a tilt on anything does well on supergreen but did also well on soilentgreen. Now something very interesting. I have one Lionhead in a different tank. She used to be with the others but around over a year ago I moved her to a 20gal tank as one of the dead ones bit her eyes out. I have her since around 6 years. Also stunted without a wen. She did well on supergreen and soilent green. But just because I am still not convinced that soilent green was not causing massive constipation I only feed anyone supergreen now. With that I see lots of perfect poo. Whats so interesting is that she is starting to grow and I see the start of a wen. After 6 years on low protein. Hows that? I have to say, before you wonder why almost all my Fancies were stunted, all but one were rescue fish. They were very sick when I bought them and came from pet shops that are now closed. We can only imagine why. Anyway my remaining fish are doing so great that I cannot believe it. I was preparing the full sterilization very soon. But no, not yet. But then again, I only whispered the news. I am superstitious, the moment I say all is well, something bad will happen. I didn’t say anything…. That brings me to the next subject and this is for you Helen or anyone from Victoria. After talking to Mikroll and AQUIS, the import of eggs is a no no. Where do you get your fish from Helen? You live around Melbourne I think. I live in Rye, Mornington Peninsula and the only pet shop here I trust is in Frankston, Everlife. But they do not stock GF really. I only get my Tropicals from them. I am after a Shubi as I am done with Fancies as much as it breaks my heart to give up on them. Or would you even know a good breeder? Thanks Silke
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