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PierreMonteux

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  1. Well I'm a week and a half into a cycle with a goldfish, and I'm still kicking myself for not doing a fishless cycle. However I just got a semi crazy idea to hopefully speed things up. If I got a 10-20 gallon tank (I know I'll need a quarantine tank), could I do a fishless cycle in it? I don't want to invest in another filter at the moment, but would the following setup work without a filter? Hang a porous bag of bioballs on the back of the tank, suspended about halfway down. Get an air bubble stone directly under the bioballs to both circulate the water through them, and to aerate the tank. Have a heater to get the temperature up to 80 F. Dose with ammonia and follow the fishless cycle directions. Once the cycle is complete, just put the bioballs into the filter currently running on my aquarium. Is there any potential gotcha I'm missing here?
  2. The one thing I would add to this is how the GFCI outlet works. It functions by comparing the current leaving the outlet on one side against the current returning on the other side. The information that comes with the outlet will give what the trip current differential is; it is usually around 5 mA. If the light fixture in question (or heater or anything else in the tank) only has 2 wires on it, a GFCI won't do any good as even shorted, the power out will still equal the power in. It is only when the water is grounded that the GFCI will trip. If the light has a third prong on the outlet (as mine does) it will trip the GFCI when it enters the water, as some of the current will go down that third wire. Likewise, if your light only has two wires, but something else has grounded the tank (be it you had installed a ground wire into the water yourself, a python made a ground connection back to a sink, or you unfortunately had one hand in the water and the other on something grounded), the GFCI would trip.
  3. I actually put the prime in, sat down on the couch, then had the thought, "Hey, didn't the review say the stuff stunk?" I didn't notice any smell as I put it in. So I got the bottle back out and gave it a good sniff. Too good of a sniff actually. Phew.
  4. Alright. I'll keep a relaxed eye on it. If it goes longer than several days (I'll call that just past a week), or makes me nervous by getting larger, I'll get a new picture and reply here. At least I won't be spending my time staring at it now, and instead just enjoy the swimming. Its good to know what is normal and expected, even if it is an infection.
  5. Phew. Thank goodness. I was thinking it was some sort of infection due to the similarity in look to a pimple, and I had heard that Oranda's are prone to wen infections. How long do they usually last?
  6. Other Required Info: Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): .25 ppm (It was just under .5 ppm this morning directly before a water change) * Nitrite Level (tank) 0 * Nitrate level (Tank) trace maybe 1 ppm. much less than 5 ppm. * Ammonia Level (Tap): Haven't tested tap, ammonia does go down with water change. * Nitrite Level (Tap) Haven't tested tap, no nitrites present after water change * Nitrate level (Tap) Haven't tested tap. * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Yesterday it was 7.8 * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Haven't tested tap * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater (drops) * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Flubal 205: 180 GPH * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Have used topfin dechlorinator, top fin bacteria supplement. Started using Seachem Prime today * Water temperature? 65-70 F ( currently 67.6) * How often do you change the water and how much? New tank still cycling. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Did a 30% change today, and a 20% change 2 days ago. * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 46 gallons. Tank has been running for 3 weeks, had gold fish for 8 days. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 3-4 inch * What do you feed your fish and how often? TetraFin goldfish flakes, omega one veggie rounds, frozen peas. A small pinch of flakes OR 1 round in the morning. have given a couple frozen pea's at night, not every night. * Any new fish added to the tank? Just the one fish total. * Any medications added to the tank? None (Prime doesn't count right?) * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) N/A * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White spot on head. Don't know how long its been there, I'm slowly becoming more observant. A couple veins visible on tail, but not visible enough to really show up in picture, detailed below. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? No, but haven't had long enough to decide what "usual" behavior is. Up to a few days ago, would stay at bottom after every noise, and for a long time while the light was on. Usually turning hte light off ended this, so surmized it was fear. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Topfin Bacteria supplement, added day before fish was put in, added at dosage for 3 water changes now (3 time to treat about 20 gallons, a tiny bit more than was was changed). Not added with todays water change. Today added first dose of prime, 1 capful. * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. Pictures are attached below. I'm mainly concerned with the white spot on the wen. If the pictures don't show it clearly, it looks a lot like a pimple. There is a visible point to it, only slightly raised around that. I can see it a tiny bit between the bumps on the wen. From what i can see its about as big around as a single bump on the wen, about a third of the size of a piece of gravel in the tank. THe most visible part isn't much bigger than a pencil point. Unfortanately, this is the best picture I could get of it. Autofocus wanted to get the glass and not the fish. You can see how the white spot is slightly visible in the line going up from the spot, and the two going down at angles from the spot. This image shows how pointed it is. A good picture of the goldfish as a whole, to try to get some sense of scale. A closeup on the tail. The redlines I spoke of earlier don't worry me right now. They aren't dark enough to really be visible on the picture. You can only see that counting from the bottom, the third and sixth gap between ridges are a bit darker. Closup they just look like blood vessels. I've noticed them for a couple of days, and I have not reason to believe they haven't been there all along. The fish has only recently stopped hiding all the time. The tank has just started to cycle. If the tap water readings are needed to get a proper diagnosis of this, I can do that tomorrow after work. I just hope this is something simple. thanks,
  7. I had heard that canisters were a bit more efficient and could err down on the what the rule was. I was going to ask at some point in the future how much plants factor into that. I was going to get the 305, but the only one the LFS had, had been returned. I almost bought it. If I hadn't insisted on looking inside before purchasing it (the box was taped shut), I would have had a filter full of water and missing parts. I'm already dreaming about a second tank with tropical fish. If I get that (probably out the time I consider adding a second goldfish) I'll get a new 305 or 405, and just shuffle the media around. This time I'll have enought patience to either get it off amazon, or drive around to other stores.
  8. I'll get some of that in the morning then. Then I'll stop looking at my fish and wondering if its the fish now acting normal and not scared, or if its the fish being stressed. He keeps going between the top and bottom of the tank. I want to say it's searching for food, as he alternates between eating gravel on the bottom and actively moving around on the top. He only searched the bottom up to yesterday, but it was yesterday that he figured out that the food comes in from the top (or at least was brave enough to try to eat it before it fell in the tank). Up till the past couple of days, we'd drop the food in, and it could land on him and he'd ignore it. It would then be a long wait (first day was almost an hour) before he'd move and start eating. Those first couple days, he'd take a couple gulps, then go back to hiding, and come out again a few minutes later. Anyhow back on topic. I'll get some prime tomorrow. Based on the review, it looks like I won't need the declorinater any more, as prime is one. Or am I better off still using the declorinator on the water before adding it to the tank, and using prime directly in the tank? Edit, missed most recent question. I am using a Fluval 205 canister. I removed the carbon from the filter. It has two trays of ceramic tubules for BB and a couple pieces of foam.
  9. I'm not using a conditioner. I am using topfin tapwater dechlorinator. Only does chlorine, but I don't have to worry about chloramines in Utah. (Did that research already.) 50% WC weekly, I'm assuming thats until I'm fully cycled? I was preparing to do a 30% in the morning, just drew the water so that it can sit overnight. I have seen a lot of references to Prime. Is that simply a water conditioner, or does that also lock the ammonia in the non-toxic form?
  10. Title basically says it all. What is the maximum allowable ammonia level that can be tolerated while cycling with fish? I don't want to be too aggressive in doing water changes, mainly because of how long it takes a few gallons of water to reach room temperature. (I'd use hot water, but I currently have a lot of sediment moving in the hot water pipes.) I also don't want to stress my fish, who has finally decided he doesn't need to hide whenever anybody approaches the tank. (It doesn't take long to get attached does it?) Is the goal to keep it under 1ppm? .5ppm? .25ppm? And if I'm suffering from a bit of blindness, and this was answered in a pinned topic somewhere, just point me to the thread. In case the answer is a big, it depends, below is probably more information than is relavent to the question. Tank Size 46 gallons. Fish, 3 inch Oranda. Testing Kit, API freshwater. The last full readings I had (about noon) were. Ammonia, .25 PPM, Nitrite 0, Nitrate Trace, PH 7.6 ish. Current Temp, 68.4 F (Its gone up to 72 a couple days ago, before it turned cold enough to get the furnace on. I don't have a heater.) I just retested the ammonia now, just a bit darker than the .25 ppm, at worst its halfway between .25 and .5. Tank Setup with filter running about October 20th. The Oranda was put into the tank on the 3rd of this month. (Fortunately I knew enough to get a large tank with only 1 fish to start. Unfortanetly I didn't hear about fishless cycling until too late. I've also been using topfin bacteria starter, which I still don't understand, but know enough about now to know that it isn't what I thought it was.)
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