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  1. My local petco carries nerites. I feel they are the best option for goldy tanks. They eat algea They don't reproduce They don't eat plants Fits all my criteria.
  2. I do it during a water change. My primary reason is to have the temperature match the tank water and allow the water conditioner to do it's thing. I don't really have any PH issues, I'm always between 7.4-7.6 when i test tap or tank. Many use automatic water changers without problems. My sink has a pull out sprayer so there is no connection for me to use one...otherwise I would get one.
  3. I can't clearly see in the video where the thermometer prob was placed, but I did some thermal testing on mine for your reference. I have the same fixture. Here are my results: Air temp: 67 Water temp: 68 Temp directly against the clear plastic bulb cover: 151 Temp directly against the top metal housing: 98 Temp of my 11 watt CFL bulb in a table lamp: 166 Wherever there is electricity, there will be heat. The more efficient a lightbulb is the less heat is created as wasted energy. Additionally, the more current (watts) there are, the more heat will be created. The plastic rim, acrylic, glass (whatever the tank is made of) is only capable of transferring minute amounts of electricity. We're talking millivolts here and really not enough electricity can be transferred from a 120 volt fixture to pose any hazard. These materials are generally referred to as insulators, due to their inablity to carry electricity. Electrical tape, for example, is made of plastic and also acts as an insulator. The only real way electricity could transfer from the fixture into the water is if the fixture itself is wet and/or in contact with the water. If this were the case, it may or may not trip your circuit breaker. If there is a ground fault or short in the fixture you would likely experience the burning smell, excessive heat, intermittent functionality, and possibly be shocked when touching it. Again, if this were the case, it still would not likely transfer electricity into the tank without contact with the water (glass and plastic it is in contact with doesn't transfer electricity). At any rate, until you determine the problem, I would not use it. Electrical fires are not uncommon, especially since you mentioned poor wiring in your home. Remember, heat, sparks, shocks are signs of problems and the cause of a electrical fire. Play it safe. I would double check to ensure it's not wet from the filter splashing, air bubblers, etc. I haven't taken mine apart but many fluorescent fixture have accessible ballast (for servicing) you may want to take a peak inside and see if anything looks loose, discolored, or such. Most importantly, play it safe. Best of luck. (sorry for being long winded. I'm a geek with this stuff)
  4. I'm confused how your measuring electricity with a thermometer? If there were a short or poor connection in the fixture it could create excess heat. And the metal hosing of the fixture would get quite hot. You may also experience flickering or a electrical smell. I have that same fixture and it gets very warm to touch, but not hot. That fixture is not grounded, I wouldn't expect that would be the culprit. Check the temperature of the power cord and wall plate and see if they are warm. If they are also hot or the fixture is excessively warm, I would suspect a problem and avoid use.
  5. I use the regular small river pebbles in my tank. It does collect poop/muck a little bit, but not too bad. The worst areas are one where I have larger stones placed on top. It quickly accumulates beneth the large stones. I have a super thin layer, maybe 2-3 pebbles deep in some areas. 1/2 - 3/4 max. I too am think of switching to sand. Estes, pool sand, and TMS seem to be the top choices. I am leaning towards Estes because of the white sand option. My biggest concern is the filter impellers getting damaged... Im still researching, but hope to have a decision made shortly.
  6. Not a good pic, but this is Mel when I got him about 2 months ago. He's grown quite a bit. The black telescope in the back, Danny, didn't make it. He died from fin rot on day 4.
  7. Cool looking fish! What size is your tank? You have a bunch of fishies in there.
  8. Do your fish actually let you pick them up? I've never tried, but mine seem feisty and I envision them going nuts and flopping/slipping out of my hands onto the floor.
  9. To add to that, the increased surface area of a longer tank also provides more swimming room for the fish. Goldfish don't really swim up/down so taller doesnt provide the benefit that legnth/area provides. My one goldy is over 9" long, he would hardly have enough room to turn around in a 12" deep 55 gallon tank. My 40G breeder is 18" deep but is only 36" long.
  10. Finnage, Sorry to be off topic, but can you share with me the plants in that photo with your fish?
  11. I am getting merited this week and have been debating how many to get. Most recommendations are 1 per 10 gallons. Some say up to 1 per 5 gallons with adequate food supply. 2 in your 125 is a bit understocked using those principals. I'm going to stick with 4 in my 40G so there is no food shortage. Nerites won't stand a chance competing with my goldies for food, in the event I need to supplement the nerites diet with wafers or such.
  12. Dr foster smith has the 70 for $45 and free shipping on order over $50. If you add in something to the order to get free shipping. Hagen also has a rebate to get up to 12 free carbons. You buy the carbons up, then send in the form with receipts and they will mail you an equal amount for free. So 24 for the price of 12. 110's are a little pricey. $80-90 I believe.
  13. Rainia, those are easy mistakes to make. Don't be hard on yourself. Many petsmart employees know little more than what's listed on the products packaging and unfortunately many of the products don't provide adequate information. I too have fallen victim to lack of information. It happens and is not your fault. There is a lot of knowledge here for you, be thankful that you have found one of the best resources of information available(here) I was speaking generally about the expiration/usabiltiy of medications. I was being lazy and didn't verify the active compounds of Maracyn(2) and minocycline is in fact one of the meds you CAN'T use past expiration. I apologize about the potential misunderstanding of that post. It is possible that you could lose your little one, but take comfort in knowing that you have some very knowledgable people here to help you to provide adequate care. Best of luck. My fingers are crossed
  14. Yes, I understand that. I did also specify salt use, but from the countless hours of research during my recent bout of rot, salt seemed to work best early on during treatment. I made the recommendation of antibiotics because the OP had already begun using them. For best results, antibiotics should be run their full course. Shorting the cycle can cause the bacteria to become resistant to treatment. Maracyn and 2 are broad spectrum and treat a wide variety of fungal and bacterial infections. OP said the fins are gone, perhaps I jumped to the conclusion of it being a severe case. Ultimately, heavy stress and or water conditions are often the underlying cause of fin rot. The water test from the main tank is the important information missing.
  15. Edit: just say your comments on the Maracyn products. How expired was it? Most medications are not affected greatly by age and can be used far beyond the "expiration" date. It's not like milk or bread that will spoil quickly after it's expiration. Especially being in sealed packets. Military test have found many meds to be viable even 10-15 years after expiration. Expiration dates on medications exist because federal law requires it (since the 1970's I believe) however, it's not often in direct relation to it's actual usable life. You don't want carbon with meds in the tank, especially if it's fresh.
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