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Everything posted by nothingtoreallygetfastfor

  1. 45 GALLON TANK EST. 2012 TWO 4" LIONHEADS, ONE 3" PEARLSCALE (APPROXIMATE LENGTHS EXCLUDING TAILS) +95% W/C TWICE WEEKLY (leaving just enough old water to cover fish) TWO AQUACLEAR FILTERS (70 AND 30) LARGE BUBBLE DISC TO SPEED SURFACE GAS-EXCHANGE NO GRAVEL, BUT ABOUT A CUPFUL OF RIVER ROCKS 15 MOSSBALLS (MORE OR LESS WHOLE) (DROP TEST KIT) TEMPERATURE: 72 F / 22 C pH: 7.6 AMMONIA: 0.5 ppm NITRITE: 0 ppm NITRATE: 5 ppm I changed +95% of the water this morning, and those last 4 readings are the same as the tap readings. I got all three fish when they were very small, following the then-current Koko's gallons per fish rule. Now I do water changes twice as often. I will replace this with the proper form if I am able to access a real computer soon; as is I am stuck on a smartphone I can hardly do anything right with.
  2. Hello, Citizens of Koko's! One of our goldfish has a problem and needs your help. Chippie, our 4 1/2 year-old lionhead, has come down with several fuzzy white specks on her otherwise magnificent wen. That cottony-looking overgrowth of bacterial infection called "fungus" (I've lurked on this forum long enough to know! ). Unfortunately, this infection may have been developing unseen for several weeks, because the normal whitish cast of new wen growth in these mega-lumpified areas probably would have obscured "fungus" that was just starting out. WHAT I'VE DONE SO FAR: During the last water change (4 days ago), I put Chippie in a mild salt dip of 2 tablespoons per gallon for approximately 8 minutes, during which she calmly swam around the bucket (that's why I kept her in so long). Then the fuzz went away, but it reappeared as bad as before within 24 hours. So during today's water change, I found my trusty ol' goldfish book, and did a stronger salt dip following David Boruchowitz's recommended 2 tablespoons per quart. However, this higher salinity clearly upset Chippie, who thrashed slightly before just drifting at the surface with the top of her back exposed, motionless besides heavy breathing. Of course, I removed her within the minute. I returned her to the bucket only after diluting the solution by two quarts, then watched her extra-closely. She hated it the same as before, and when some veins in her tail became red, I returned her to the tank instead of diluting it further (as it seemed like she'd been through plenty of stress for one day). So, she had at most the equivalent of a 2 minute salt dip altogether this morning. I'm pretty sure I'm doing the dips correctly: Morton Canning & Pickling Salt (100% salt, no additives) dissolved in tank water heated by well-rinsed pots, then cooled to room temperature before being added to room-temperature tank water (45 gallon always kept at room-temperature too) in the "goldfish-only" bucket. Also, for what it may be worth, after all three salt dips, upon being returned to the tank Chippie immediately zoomed to the corner and spent a good 20-30 seconds vigorously rubbing her head in the powerful incoming stream from the refilling hose. So apparently the salt stings: maybe that means it's working? And doesn't this problem requires longer-term, lower-level salinity to clear up? I'm not sure what's the optimum salinity for this problem or how long I should maintain it, at the 45 gallon tank level. (Of course I would prefer to avoid subjecting the other two goldfish to salt they don't need by putting Chippie in a "hospital" tub, but there's no remotely safe place for it.) Also I am uncertain how to interpret salinity-related instructions given the concentration of Morton Canning & Pickling salt : a tablespoon of it is MUCH more salt than a tablespoon of rock salt, for example. Maybe 2 tablespoons per quart of this particular salt was way too much? Thanks for your help! And for slogging through my many paragraphs! NOTE: This is the first time I have used a smartphone (which I'm only borrowing) to post ANYTHING online, and I am TERRIBLE at it, so please refer to my last post (about red splotches on Blunderbuss) for information regarding the tank and its inhabitants. I will post basic water parameters shortly, but the ability to copy and paste the standard form is hopelessly beyond me. (Please forgive me, this post has taken me about two hours already; no wonder I just have a flip-phone.)
  3. I must confess, I have been bad, haven't been testing as regularly as I should: week after week I had been getting the same pH and 0 on everything but nitrate (regularly 20 ppm) in the old water, so I got complacent. I plan to get a larger tank when I can afford it, and I think I should do more frequent water changes until then. Every five days maybe? (I got these fish when they were very small, plus I had been following this forum's guidelines at the time.) Thanks for your help. I'd do Wednesday and Sunday, because that's easier for me to remember. You should only have to knock crud off your filters and such every week or two though. And do try cutting the feeding volume in half at each feed and see if you still show nitrite. Thanks, I think that schedule will work out well! (Had you seen the post where I corrected my measurement? I had incorrectly said I was feeding them half a TABLESPOON each time, but I should have typed "teaspoon." I am not feeding them such a ridiculous amount of food, but if it would be best to reduce it, please let me know.) Blunderbuss is now almost splotch-free now. He and the other two are pretty much out for the night, lined up together in the customary sleeping corner.
  4. I think you're right, and now I realize I got my measurements wrong: each time I feed them I feed them about half a TEASPOON, not tablespoon like I typed up there. I looked at the measuring spoons up in the kitchen, and saw that half a tablespoon is more than I feed them in an entire day. Can't imagine how bad those parameters would've been if I really fed them that much! D: Thanks for your input, I appreciate it!
  5. I must confess, I have been bad, haven't been testing as regularly as I should: week after week I had been getting the same pH and 0 on everything but nitrate (regularly 20 ppm) in the old water, so I got complacent. I plan to get a larger tank when I can afford it, and I think I should do more frequent water changes until then. Every five days maybe? (I got these fish when they were very small, plus I had been following this forum's guidelines at the time.) Thanks for your help.
  6. Okay, it's not letting me copy, click on, or otherwise interact with the individual photos' HTML codes. Can't figure out how to fix it, and Ted has even disabled the flash plug-in whatever and it's still not complying. Here's the album link. Can you access it? http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/adverbemonade/library/BLUNDERBUSS%20PROBLEM%2014TH%20NOVEMBER%202016?sort=3&page=1 Blunderbuss came to me as a nearly perfect tanchu, and then he slowly lost all his red except for the tiniest spot on the rim of his right eye. A small streak of orange has appeared on the top half of his left caudal fin within the last six months. Every other marking you see on him in the pictures is NOT NORMAL, he is supposed to be almost entirely white. Also, I took those pictures AFTER the water change, and the splotches had faded noticeably in that short time. They looked even worse before! Currently, his splotches have faded by about 75% overall, and the redness is more brownish now. I think the clean water is probably fixing it. I think he'll probably be okay. However, I don't know what exactly went wrong there, I don't remember seeing anything comparable, and I want to prevent it in the future. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  7. Hello, People Of Koko's. I haven't been on lately, but everything has been going great goldfish-wise until last night. LATE LAST NIGHT TED: "Wow, Blunderbuss really IS getting a lot of orange on him! Not just that spot on his tail!" ME (in bed and half asleep): "Huh, he's changing pretty fast then. Cool; well, I guess I'll see in the morning." Turns out Blunderbuss was actually covered in red splotches which looked like extra orange patches under the night-light LED strip. Looked bruised all over except his head-lumps, but acted perfectly normal, energetically "blub-blub"ing at me trying to intimidate me into feeding him, just like always. There is nothing at all amiss with either of his fellow goldfish. OLD TANK WATER AMMONIA: 0 ppm OLD TANK WATER NITRITE: 0.25-0.50 ppm OLD TANK WATER NITRATE: 40 ppm OLD TANK WATER pH: 7.0 TAP WATER AMMONIA: 0.5 ppm TAP WATER NITRITE: 0 ppm TAP WATER NITRATE: 5.0 ppm TAP WATER pH: 7.5 (because the standard pH test said 7.6, and the high pH test said 7.4) Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Test Kit, drops. Water temperature? 68 F/20 C Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 45 gallon tank, established in early 2012, in its current location since November 2015. What is the name and size of the filters? There's one Aquaclear 70 and one Aquaclear 30 How often do you change the water and how much? 90-95% water change every week (leaving only enough water to keep the fish covered). Every other week we take apart the filters to clean them, scrub the algae off the front of the tank, and squish out the major gunk from the moss balls. How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? On Monday the 7th of November (a week ago) my partner Ted and I changed ~90-95% of the water. We changed the same amount today (and cleaned the filters and moss balls). How many fish in the tank and their size? There are three. Blunderbuss (a lionhead) is nearly 6" long, with a body about the size of a kiwi fruit: this is the fish with the problem. Chippie (another lionhead who's the same age) is about 5" long and somewhat smaller than Blunderbuss. Valarie (a crown pearlscale who's two years younger) is about 2/3 the mass of Chippie at the same 5" length, because her tail is longer. (All lengths include tail, and all genders are my best guesses based on their vents.) What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime. What do you feed your fish and how often? Five days a week, I feed them two or three small (half tablespoon sized) meals, of Hikari Gold and/or thawed seaweed-based cubes made for saltwater herbivores. One day a week, I feed them a thawed cube containing either brine shrimp, blood worms, or gelled seaweed stuff. The day before I change their water each week is a fast day. Any new fish added to the tank? Not in two years: that was the pearlscale and she was properly quarantined (see below). Any medications added to the tank? Not since four years ago when I first got the lionheads (see below). List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. I used the standard Koko's Prazipro/salt treatment when I first brought home the (originally 3) lionheads in July 2012. I bought Valarie in the summer of 2014 (several months after one of the three lionheads died from some horrible pus-filled blister problem). Before adding the pearlscale to the tank I quarantined her in a Sterilite tub following the same Prazipro/salt method. Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Blunderbuss's solid white body is heavily splotched with red marks and his pelvic and pectoral fins have red STREAKS. There are also two or three small inflamed blood vessels on his tail, but the STREAKS are something different. However, all his scales lay flat with no hint of pine-coning. Nothing whatsoever is wrong with other two goldfish. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? No, Blunderbuss has been acting like a vicious little bulldog, exactly like he always does, this entire time. I WILL POST PICTURES BELOW, my browser is acting up and I don't want to lose all what I've already typed.
  8. Now I'm having trouble finding another AquaClear 30. The LPSs have every other size, it seems. And the store where I bought the broken-down filter won't let me exchange it in any way; I have to contact Fluval. Dang. I'm kinda disappointed in myself for using soap on the media in the first place; I guessed that mildew was more harmful. But, recalling how soap kills fish, I'm glad I didn't reuse that stuff. If I were a goldfish I wouldn't want the tiniest amount of soap in my gills. I've never cleaned any other aquarium stuff with soap.
  9. I can't say for sure. But, I wouldn't risk it. Okay, I'll throw that stuff out. I love my little goldfish and don't want to risk messing them up. Thanks so much for the advice!
  10. Is the soap boil-able away? I used just a tiny bit (just enough for suds) of a white soap cake and made sure it was completely gone as far as I could tell. Soaked that stuff TWICE in a sink full of the hottest water the house makes, which is hot enough to seriously scald you.
  11. Hello, People of Koko's! This week has been pretty hectic with school starting, my sister being in the hospital having a long-needed hysterectomy, and me being out of commission a full day after sedation for a medical procedure of my own. So, only yesterday did I notice that my AquaClear30 was plugged in, yet doing NOTHING besides having an extremely hot motor. It must have broken several days before, because the beneficial bacteria, residual gunk, and algae had had plenty of time to die and rot. As soon as I lifted the filter media out to clean it, A HORRID STENCH PERMEATED THE ENTIRE ROOM. In my partner's words: "It smells like you burned a bag of poop down here." I threw out the way too far gone fiberglass rectangle that had been on the bottom of the basket. Then I washed and washed and washed and washed the remaining media (a sponge and a big bag of ceramic pieces) with soap and chlorinated tap water, then I washed and washed and washed them just in tap water until there was not even a hint of soap. I put the sponge and bag of ceramic pieces on paper towels to dry. Today, they're BONE DRY, but still smell sorta like mildew. Is that normal? Are they safe to put back into a working filter? I know that the normal stuff in filters doesn't smell like roses, so I wouldn't expect filter media to ever come completely clean of odors. EDIT: No worries about my goldfish! My faithful AquaClear70 is still working perfectly. 45 gallons. Three 4-inch and under goldfish. Whole lotta algae and scraggly nibbled-on mossballs. The parameters are normal. And today I've done my usual just-enough-water-to-cover-the-goldfish water changes. I need to know how much of the filter is beyond saving before exchange/replace it.
  12. UPDATE: The pearlscale is now in the main tank, doing great. She doesn't have a name yet. I'll post pictures when I get around to it.
  13. Thanks! I'll continue watching the pearlscale really closely and tell you all if/when anything changes.
  14. Hydrogen peroxide for extra oxygen in a fish tank? I've done (what I thought was) plenty of lurking over the last few years on Koko's, and I've never ever ever heard of this or anything close. Is this an accepted practice? Is it harmful? Huh.
  15. Eyelashes! Dang that's an adorable name. And I'm surprised that the older ones are already little fat-bellied fantail-ish things! Good job!
  16. Hello again, People of Koko's! I've missed you guys. I've mostly avoided the internet while experiencing no problems besides stubborn wen-lessness with my two-year-old lionheads. This is a little long-winded, but please bear with me, because I don't know which aspects might be relevant and I don't want to leave something out. On the 18th of July I bought two little goldfish (each slightly under 2" with tails) at an independent fish store. I want to emphasize that this store has the healthiest stock I've ever seen. Even the goldfish have been as well-cared for as the rest, and this is a store specializing mostly in marine life! (They don't sell ANY BOWLS, or even a tank under 20 gallons!) I've been there several times and I've never noticed a fish of even questionable health status, plus every person working there (as tested with my weird questions) has seemed unusually skilled and well-qualified. Well, anyway, I only "needed" one goldfish, but I pessimistically bought two equally charming fish, figuring that if one died in QT, I'd still have one (and if both lived, hey, here's an excuse to upgrade!). Unfortunately, that tentative fear came true. The one still living is a calico crowned pearlscale, with a moderate (not completely spherical) body. The one who died was a calico bubble-eye, with such tiny, symmetrical bubbles that he looked like a celestial. Somewhat arbitrarily, based on body-to-tail shapes, I dubbed them female and male, respectively. Really, really adorable, both of them. On the 19th of July, I began QT in a clear tub (holding 12 gallons of water), using Salt+PraziPro procedure (specifics below to make this a little easier to read). For the first two days, both occasionally held their pectoral and pelvic fins a tad too close to their bodies for my comfort. But after that, they became energetic and healthy-seeming, and FRIENDLY, blowing bubbles at me when my hand was in the water and eating out of my fingers within a few more days! Nothing suspicious at all from either of them after they stopped their mild clamping, and this is coming from someone who tends to be paranoid when it comes to new goldfish health. On the 30th of July, the little bubble-eye was perky as ever until the late evening, when he started drifting sideways a little while swimming. It didn't seem like a deadly problem, so I sat and watched him while I tested the water so I could properly consult the People of Koko's. He quickly got worse and worse, and 5 minutes after I deemed it bad enough to stick him in a colander so the pearlscale wouldn't bug him, he was DEAD. Within about 45 minutes, he went from perfectly fine as far as I could tell, to DEAD. I didn't even have time to post here asking for help! I scooped out his little fish corpse and examined it externally for any signs as to what killed him. His underbelly was squishier than it should have been, but that was it. No visible red blood vessels (streaking) on his white fins, no bloating and not one scale sticking out. His body was perfectly symmetrical. There was nothing at all that I could see or feel besides the abnormally squishy underbelly to suggest what had killed him. Just to be on the safe side I immediately did a 100% W/C on the QT tank (and later a +90% change on the main tank with different equipment of course). The parameters of the QT tank were the same at the bubble-eye guy's death and right after the 100% W/C (and very similar to the daily results): 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites, and ~0.5 ppm nitrates (it's in the tap water); 7.6 pH; 70 degrees F/ 21 degrees C. SPECIFIC QT PROCEDURE: I'm using Morton's Canning and Pickling Salt (properly dissolved in boiling tank water that is then allowed to cool to room/tank temperature) and Prazi-Pro for treatment, doubled Seachem Prime to dechlorinate, and an API Freshwater Master Test Kit to test. The filter is a seeded AquaClear 30, filtering 12 gallons of water in an otherwise empty clear tub that's maybe 3-4 gallons larger than that volume. I'm doing a 100% water change on every 5th day since the daily-measured parameters are pretty much as outlined above, only with nitrates ranging from 0 ppm to 0.5 ppm (because they're in the tap water here). I had the salt at 0.3% for the first 10 days; since then it's been at 0.1%. This means that the bubble-eye died on the 12th day of QT, which was the 2nd day of 0.1% salt. Today (the 9th of August) I'm on the 4th round of Prazi-Pro. I have fed the goldfish small amounts of thawed frozen food (of a good brand, but I don't remember which) once daily (except on W/C day when I fast them), alternating between primarily vegetable-based green chunks with either bloodworms or brine shrimp. I called the owner of the fish store the following day and told him how the bubble-eye guy died, upon the assumption that informing the source of fish deaths is proper etiquette. He agreed with my guess that it was most likely an internal bacterial problem, and suggested various anti-bacterial products that I might want to treat the pearlscale with. But I don't know, I want to consult you all first. I know antibacterial water treatments cause more or less damage to the filter bacteria, and I fear that scooping out the pearlscale daily to do 100% water changes might stress her out too much to be a good thing (and I'd also soon run out of Prazi-Pro, which I had to buy in a city a four-hour round trip away). I know they can also create drug resistant strains of bacteria, and/or can quite possibly do harm or no good at all if the problem is non-bacterial or the wrong kind of bacterial. I've continued treating the pearlscale in QT and observing her closely, not knowing if she'd soon bite the dust like the other guy did. So far, so good. She seems just as energetic and friendly as ever. What do you all think I should do?
  17. Mine stays on the bottom all the time, except when I squeeze it during tank cleanings. I want a creepy moss ball:) You'd figure they wouldn't do that in an aquarium since the light reaches the bottom. Do you have funky lighting? I don't know much about aquarium lighting but I think my lighting's pretty standard, 17 watts, on about 12 hours a day. I don't see them floating to the surface very often, maybe once every 2 or 3 months.
  18. I've never seen a telescope with eyebrows! How wonderful!
  19. They're all so fat! My "must cuddle it" instinct is troublesome.
  20. I read that in nature, moss balls live on the bottom of the lake, and come up TO THE SURFACE every so often to photosynthesize. Mine sometimes hang out on the surface of my tank, in the middle of the week, when I KNOW they can't be floating from air inside them. Then they sink back down a few hours later. Maybe they're trying out their natural behaviors? It's a little creepy.
  21. Also, make sure there aren't any hollow parts underneath that could harbor anaerobic bacteria. (I am sure CindiL knows this, but if there are any inexperienced readers here, I want to make sure they're aware.)
  22. Yeah, pretty much anything is dangerous if your immune system is severely compromised. Might want to get teach a dedicated friend to take care of your fish, in that case.
  23. I read the thread, but I don't know if "The Mickey Method" is the best choice for me; since Mikey has sand that he says stays clear of poop and debris, and I have river rocks that get poop stuck around them and NEED to be suctioned. It's too bad that old plumbing (or stupid plumbing) plus Pythons causes floods and leaks. I don't want to risk it again; I am going to return the Python. This Sunday, I will try the "removing the fish and mixing hot and cold water method" and see how it goes. Maybe say a little prayer for the hardwood flooring that lines the path from the upstairs bathtub to the tank..
  24. That's wonderful! Not only are you helping all these little goldfish, you're helping a dying woman find peace. Hoarder or not, she was probably really worried about all her pets, and you and your rescue partners have eased that stress.
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