Jump to content

Cyprinidae

Regular Member
  • Content Count

    215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Cyprinidae

  1. Hi! Sorry I have not replied to this thread lately, The prazi treatment is going nicely, I will ask again about the reading next time I go to the fish store
  2. Thank you! I don't know what type of kit he used, but he thought that the water was stabilizing because of the water conditioner. What do you think? This is coming from a guy who told me to add another goldfish to the ten gal if I wanted, and to only clean it every three weeks, so I am not holding his advise in high regards...
  3. I got the kh tested yesterday, and it is 12/200. I have added the 10 gal prazi dosage too. I have some questions: How long should I treat him with the prazi? Will the prazi be removed by the filter? When I do my water changes, should I replace it? Thanks, -Cyprinidae
  4. Thank you both, I have: - 1 pagoda ornament from petco, - unpainted rock substrate, - 1 anubias plant, - 1 airstone w/ airline tubing, - Aqueon filter
  5. Tap pH- 8.0 Tank pH- 7.0 The last water change was yesterday, I changed 75% Could it be possible that something in the salt is changing the water? I know you and koko said that the salt it's self could not do that, but could it also include a softening agent that is allowing the pH to change? The decrease in pH appears to be related to the increase in salt product. I will experiment by adding salt to tap water.
  6. Hi, So I went to get the kh tested at petco, but they would only test for pH, chlorine, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. There is-- or at least there was (It may have burned down)-- a fish store half an hour away that I could try, the people there might know what they're doing. The Prazipro is coming, and I have increased the salt to 2%. Luckily, my fish is healing super fast-- the 1/4in tear is almost gone now!
  7. So I read up on flukes, and all of the symptoms correspond, in addition to the ones I stated already, he does have a reddish tint to him, which I thought might have be increasing (earlier I attributed this to his pale/transluecent coloring on his body) Also, he seems very thin no matter what I feed him... I let these things go before because he was acting normal, and didn't show any stress signs or anything... He's sort of an odd little fish, either a comet X double tail, or a watonai, and he is very translucent in color-- It is hard to tell in the photograph because he is so bright in comparison to the background, that usually my shots of him are a bit over exposed Anyways, I will go get the water tested in a sec.
  8. Thank you, I will try and get it tested tomorrow at the local pet store.
  9. Oh, and about the pH, I think the salt I have been adding is softening the water.
  10. The spots aren't raised, they look like small, round, cloudy blotches on his tail. I also thought of ich, especially once more spots appeared, but they don't look like ich marks. I am sitting by his tank now, and the dots are much more translucent than before, I just changed the water, and he is exploring and hunting for food. I haven't seen him rubbing at all today. I don't think there as any prazipro at my lfs, but I will look into getting some online. Thank you for your help! -Cyp.
  11. Thanks Koko! I am adding 1tsp per 5 gallons, since the tank is 10gal, I add a teaspoon for every 50% water change. When I say .5 to 1 on the ammonia, I mean the marking on the color chart is ".5-1", the solution it's self is always on the lighter side, so I think the water is at .5 max. However, changing more water probably wouldn't hurt Thanks for getting back to me on this! -Cyp.
  12. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank) - 0.5-1.0 * Nitrite Level (tank) - 0 * Nitrate level (Tank) - 0 * Ammonia Level (Tap): - 0 * Nitrite Level (Tap) - 0 * Nitrate level (Tap) - 0 * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - 7.4 * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - 8.0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API drops * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s) - Aqueon 20 gal filter * What kind of water additives or conditioners - Salt, Seachem Prime * Water temperature? - 70 F * How often do you change the water and how much? - Every day I change 50% (Tank is cycling) * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? - Yesterday, 50% * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? - 10 gal running for 2 months (Temporary) * How many fish in the tank and their size? - 1 fish, about 1 1/4 inches * What do you feed your fish and how often? - peas, pellets, brine shrimp, fed every other day * Any new fish added to the tank? - no * Any medications added to the tank? - no * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) - Possible constipation issues, but not causing swim bladder problems. I got him from a feeder tank 1 1/2 months ago. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? - Yes. When I got him he had two little dots on his tail, they looked like little kinks in his tail, maybe where he had been nipped and there was scar tissue. I didn't think much of it, because they didn't change at all, but three days ago I saw two more, and all of them were opaque, where as they had been translucent like his tail before. This afternoon I came home and saw that his tail had been torn in two places near the dots, sometime between 7am and 3pm. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? - He is reluctant to leave his pagoda while the lights are on in the tank. He will eagerly come out to eat, and act normal during feeding time. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. Hi everyone, I am experiencing some problems I have a small fish-- about 1 1/4 inches. When I got him he had two little dots on his tail, they looked like little kinks in his tail, maybe where he had been nipped and there was scar tissue (he was rescued from a feeder tank). I didn't think much of it, because they didn't change at all, but three days ago I saw two more, and all of them turned opaque, whereas they had been translucent like his tail before. This afternoon I came home and saw that his tail had been torn in two places near the dots, sometime between 7am and 3pm. He will stay in the shade when the light is on, but when I feed him he is eager to eat. I am having trouble getting a really clear picture of his tail right now, but I have a few that give a rough idea of the damage, and I made a sketch of what the dots/ tears look like. I am really hoping to have this diagnosed as quickly as possible, because in seven hours he got one major tear, and one smaller one, and I am worried that he will get a lot worse at this rate. When I turn the tank light off he swims up and down against the glass wall sometimes, he has always done this, but lately it has become extensive. I have also noticed an increase in sporadic darting, followed by gasping for air once of twice, and then acting normal again. None of his ornaments are particularly sharp, but should I take them out? I would suspect that he tore his tail on one of them, if the white dots didn't so exactly correlate with the tears. The fact that my tank is cycling sort of throws a wrench in the gears here, because I am trying to avoid adding medications if possible. Here are some pictures (I will try to get a better pic) : and a diagram showing his tail from the top: (on the left is how it normally looks, and the left shows the recent tears and dots) Thank you for your time! -Cyprinidae
  13. Wow! Isis is gorgeous! I love her scales and her eyes! (I am also glad that you guys fixed the photo problem; I hope it doesn't happen again)
  14. Are the fish in there permanently? Two goldfish need a lot more than ten gallons when they grow. With three fish in the ten gallon tank, you might want to do more frequent water changes to keep the nitrate down. Higher nitrate levels will contribute to algae growth. If you add live plants, that can also help to keep algae down. When you change the filter media, it would help to do it on a different day than the water change. Adding the second filter would help too. I don't know how much water you are changing each week, but since the fish are short of space in a ten gallon, it would not be a bad idea to get a test kit if at all possible. The drop ones are best, because the strip kits can be wildly inaccurate, and don't give you a good idea about the water. Try to clean out the algae as often as possible, it can increase exponentially. Once I had a brown algae attack in my betta tank, and in the end I think it might have had something to do with my fish getting really sick. But I don't mean to scare you!!! Just make sure that you manage it, because it can be hard to control if it gets out of hand. Good luck! -Cyprinidae
  15. Sounds like an adorable little fish! You can use tinypic of photobucket to upload pics http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/76665-how-to-posts-photos/
  16. So far he is doing really well! He is leaning to the side less, and otherwise seems healthy. No signs of ammonia burns, or red streaks on his fins/tail. Here is a video of him from today: vid
  17. Some of them are more serious than others... My pH test has no safety lock and no warnings, but the ammonia one can cause burns, and is lethal if swallowed. I don't have any fears of working with chemicals, but it is better to be cautious when working with them. I'm not sure how realistic the warnings on the bottles are (they probably list the worst case scenario, so as to avoid lawsuits). I have spilt the ammonia test solution on my hands before, and I washed them right away and never got any burns. As for swallowing, that is not really a problem so long as you wash your hands thoroughly after using the chemicals, do not put them directly in your mouth, and to not swallow anything that has come into contact with the solution on the past (Don't mix some edible science trick in the same test tube, etc...) It is always best to be cautious when working with any potentially dangerous substance, so being afraid to use toxic chemicals is not necessarily a bad thing. As far as picking between the air pump/stone, and the test kit, it depends on how much aeration your tank currently has, and if you have had problems with bad water in the past. Best of luck! -Cyprinidae
  18. Found this on the Prime website... " A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime®... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime®). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime®), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away. However, the best solution ;-) is to use our MultiTest: Ammonia™ kit... it uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime® or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (which is both the free and ionized forms of ammonia (the ionized form is not toxic))." That answers my question! And also the pH has slowly dropped from 7.8 to 7.2 since I started adding the salt!
  19. I have kept up the 60% daily changes all week, and the ammonia has stayed at 0.5-1.0. before and right after the water changes. Could the Prime be throwing off my reading? I tested my water with all the ingredients before the prime, and it came out clear, then I tested it again with the prime, and it was dark yellow (past what my ammonia chart shows). Presumably this is because whatever in in the prime is reacting to the ammonia drops. When I tested the prime itself, it turned gray with the drops. In a more diluted form, could the prime be making the water appear to be .5-1 ppm? I also find these results strange because the Prime is suppose to get rid of ammonia, and the ammonia reading doesn't change after adding the Prime (I tested the water 24 hours after the prime was added, the water appeared to have the same amount of ammonia as before).
  20. What great coloring! Beautiful fish, congrats!
  21. I didn't know that they flowered! I hope mine does that! I love the picture of your fish looking at the flower XD
  22. That tank is seriously overstocked, and that will only make your problem worse. I am actually going through similar issues right now, and it is enough work with one 1.5 inch fish! Do you have Seachem Prime? It gets rid of ammonia and detoxifies nitrate and nitrite, it would probably help you in addition to the water changes dnalex suggested. Once you get things sorted out, you might want to consider getting an additional tank for the 5/6 inch fish. I really wish you the best of luck with fixing the water! Keep up the water changes -Cyprinidae
  23. Sorry! The reading for ammonia was 0.5 -- 1.0! Not 5-10!!! I made a typo!
  24. Wow! Mahina is sooo cute! <3 He/She reminds me of my fish Finny XD
×
×
  • Create New...