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JouteiMike

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Everything posted by JouteiMike

  1. Oops forgot to reply Alex. Yeah I forgot to add I ditched the carbon from the 110s, think I still have them under the tank somewhere though. I find even when ditching the carbon there's not much excess room for much. I see no harm in adding a polishing pad, but no real benefits either if my water is pristine without them.
  2. I see, sorry I couldn't be of any help. Hopefully Eheim will have the answer.
  3. I have the same pressure problem, and with winter coming, the draining outside won't be practical, so I recently got a pond pump to drain the tank. It's great. It drains quickly and won't suck up any fish. But it doesn't vacuum. I got this one, in case you are interested. http://www.harborfre...pump-68395.html I hope your fish recovers quickly. I've done the same thing, and I now cover the siphon with mesh from a bag of oranges. A little word of advice if you are going to use the netting from the onion sack: In addition to what pretty fish said, I was wondering if you have a bare-bottom tank or have gravel/sand? If you have gravel, make sure you cut it bigger than you need. This way you have ample slack that will allow you to jam the siphon tube into the gravel without putting strain on the net. But if you have a bare-bottom, then it doesn't really matter! Maybe you need bigger mesh. I use mesh from a bag of oranges, and it is very open. It doesn't slow things down at all. Could be. I've tried many different methods in the past and I just didn't really care to have anything attached to the end of my python. Now I am just extra careful.
  4. Since this happened to me in the past, I very seldom leave the python siphon tube exposed and unprotected while it's running if I turn my back on the aquarium. I've tried using netting with rubber bands in the past, and to be honest, it really slowed things down for me, got in the way, and I didn't really care for it. So now I just keep an extra eye on my fish, and if I have to turn my back, I bury the open end in the gravel, so it stays semi-filled with rocks. Now I know many of you have bare bottom tanks, but for those who have gravel or even sand, this would work as well if you didn't want to use the netting or sponge as a protector when you have to turn your back to the tank or walk away temporarily. A little word of advice if you are going to use the netting from the onion sack: In addition to what pretty fish said, I was wondering if you have a bare-bottom tank or have gravel/sand? If you have gravel, make sure you cut it bigger than you need. This way you have ample slack that will allow you to jam the siphon tube into the gravel without putting strain on the net. But if you have a bare-bottom, then it doesn't really matter!
  5. Commercial food I always make sure I have on hand: New Life Spectrum and Pro-Gold. I like to mix it up a little for my goldies between the two. I used to make my own gel foods, but haven't in years, and I never tried commercial gel foods such as repeshy soilent-green, but have read a great deal about them, heard super testimonials, and recommend it as well. Instead, nowadays I supplement with blanched spinach, peas, brocolli, algae tablets and softened bits of carrots, apples, pears sparingly as a treat. I put them in loosely and let them chase and forage for them. Also I've been experimenting with breeding my own brine shrimp for another treat for them, it's quite fun as well.
  6. What are you using for media, Mike? Hey Alex. I actually use solely the media that came with each filter, no more, no less. Seems to allow the filter to perform as it was intended. Sometimes I wonder if adding additional media puts an extra strain on the filter, since it was designed to run with typically what it comes with, but I know there are exceptions out there that specifically come with extra room. I find that my 110's don't really have much extra room when stocked with the foam block, and the bag of ceramic rings. I couldn't picture putting in addition media like a polishing pad...would be too cramped in my opinion.
  7. Yes, doesn't do anything; as I stated above, I've reset it numerous times to factory default as well which is max output on automatic, not manual mode either. Hmmm...wish I was more familiar with this filter to help out. I only vaguely know the set up and operations of it, as my friend has the same one and he gave me a tutorial maybe a year ago.... Good luck. My guess is either you have too much filter media in it and it's sensing that it needs a "cleaning," or there's too much slack in the intake/output hose that causing it to sense an interference. Any of those sound plausible in your set up? Maybe you can take a picture how you have it set up. Also, maybe you can try to take out some media, stow it in a bucket, and run the filter with less media in it to see if it still flashes the amber service light. Just a few suggestions.
  8. Have you tried holding down the "S" button, then pressing it again quickly?
  9. I actually don't use any; I have in the past, but honestly, I don't really notice a difference. I used to use the Rena Filstar brand ones back when I had a XP3 canister running. I noticed they get gunked up rather quickly which I know is evidence that it's doing its job and all. Now I run 2 aquaclear 110s with no polishing pad, and a pretty decent bio-load, and I don't notice the water being any less clear that it's ever been, in fact, it's been looking clearer than ever. Guess it's a personal preference, so good luck!
  10. I've actually had that happen to me before as well, now I'm extra careful. A guard of some sort is a great suggestion. I bet your fish will be fine, as fish tend to heal very rapidly if the water is kept clean. The best option for you is to let the fish chill out, keep an eye on the injuries, and perform more frequent water changes as stated. Oh I just wanted to add, my fish had identical injuries and symptoms to yours, and he persevered with no salt, or needing to take him out. But I'm not trying to say don't add salt, or don't take him out, but letting him relax for a day or two and keeping an eye on him may be the best plan of action for now so you don't further stress him out.
  11. 110's are the best. Alex's advice about the roots are key! Good luck.
  12. My only guess is that the QT tank is a much smaller volume, so it doesn't have a large buffer system and is more susceptible to a dip in the pH. That's a good suggestion from fantail! The idea is to just slowly acclimate the fish to the main tank. You could even put the fish in a similar to the kind LFS's use, float the fish in the main tank, and slowly add little amounts of water from the main tank to the bag, whichever you think is easier.
  13. While I know this, I just wasn't sure if 4prettyfish did, she seems relatively new to the hobby and I wanted to make it clear that the idea of actually rinsing bio media is not necessary, ever, unless it is literally clogged with detritus or other matter. I guess we just have different methods of doing things. The only "rinsing" I did was back when I used Tetra Whisper power filters, the original ones about 10 years ago. The bio media was a black sponge and that would defintiely get clogged over time. So I could dip it in a container of tank water and knock it around a little. But with my 2 Aquaclear 110s that I run now, and one I've been running for 6 years, I have never needed to rinse or slosh the ceramic rings around at all, I just place them gently in a container of tank water. While vigorous rinsing and squeezing of mechanical sponges in tank water is fine, I guess I just have a different view and I get nervous when I hear anyone mentioned they are going to "rinse" their bio media. I shouldn't jump to such conclusions...
  14. I don't know how I over looked this but I did. Sorry about that. Thanks for the info. I will wait longer then a month to rinse the ceramic balls. I would have done it sooner. I don't clean all my filters at the same time either. Thank you again for all your help. It really is appreciated. I would actually recommend to never "rinse" your ceramic balls, but maybe I have the wrong idea of what you actually mean. But what I think cmlien was saying is that it's okay to "dip" your bio media in a bucket or container of tank water from time to time, like during filter mainenance to soak it while you clean the filter, and not physically rinse them, ever. I suggest being extra delicate when handling your bio-media bag - they're essentially the liver of the tank!
  15. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=filter+media+bags&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7364160564&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=552204&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1762984456451527501&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_3llj0fb5vs_b There's a bunch available online. I typically use the Hagen/Aquaclear ones, but they're all pretty similar nylon bags. You would even use your own netting, or netting that comes from produce that you buy at the store. Glad I understood it correctly.
  16. Just took out carbon from cartridge, rinsed off floss/sponge in bucket with tank water, and put 18-20 ceramic rings into now th cut opened pouch. Lets see if it helps me fully cycle tank. I'm also keeping the bio scrubbers that come with the filter. I figure its more surface area for BB to grow. Just a quick suggestion, but first let me clarify something. So the cartidge that contained the pouch/bag that came with the carbon inside, you cut open to dispose of the carbon, and in turn added biological media in it instead? I want to make sure I understand that. This means that when the time comes to perform filter maintenance and clean the mechanical floss/sponge, you will have to either leave the biological media inside of it to do this, or take the biological media out each time, potentially disturbing it either way. If this is the case, then I would suggest putting the ceramic rings (biological media), in its own bag, seperate from the filter cartridge so you wouldn't have to constantly disturb it while cleaning the filter sponge/floss. I hope I iunderstood this properly that you were keeping the biological media INSIDE the filter cartridge.
  17. Hello fellow CT resident! Think I'll chime in with my two cents. First off, looks like some kind of calcareous rock that they gave you, but it was clearly too much for the tank. How big is the tank? The larger the tank, the more stable. Now while my advice for most beginners is to never add any chemicals, like pH up/down, or driftwood, peat moss, crushed coral to the tank to try to alter the pH, because a stable environment is much better than an environment that is constantly being adjusted and on the brink of collapse. But it sounds like with a pH so slow, you may need to intervene once we find out more information. dnalex brings up a good suggestion of letting your water age, and naturally stablize. You should definitely try that method. But what I am concerned about is your water hardness. Are you going to get that tested? Because that will be the answer to if your water will be able to keep a stable pH and not have a sudden fluctuation. I have a feeling that your water may be very soft if the pH is so low right out of the tap, but there's no way to tell. So before you want to adjust the pH, you really need to know the water hardness (dH) or your aquarium's carbonate hardness (kH). These are what make up the buffer system of your water, and help maintan a stable pH. Like I said earlier, a stable environment is so much more important than constantly trying to adjust the pH. Also, just wondering, did they use a liquid test kit? Your best bet is to buy one of your own, they are fairly cheap. I have learned to never rely on what the LFS tells you, and to do your own research and tests; although maybe yours is reputable, and I am just being cynical... But anyway, before adding anything to the tank, obtain a lquid test kit, find out the hardness like suggested, and start letting a bucket of water sit.
  18. Never heard of food "crushing" organs, but you're right that the food can expand once inside the fish. Especially if it's a dry pellet. I always recommend soaking any dry pellet or flake for at least a minute in a cup of tank water before feeding your fish. Kinda like us humans, if we swallow a bunch of air or drink a beer or soda real fast, we end up bloated and burpy. And I don't see why the same principle can't be applied towards fish. Especially since a lot of fish, like the goldfish, don't have that true stomach where the excess air can be contained.
  19. That's perfectly normal, you have nothing to worry about. It was probably the fitler temporarily priming itself back on that agitated the water and jarred the media around a little. It's up to you about doing a water change, I wouldn't because it was most likely some bacteria colonies that were knocked off and it sounds like it cleared up on its own and since it's a new cycle, I suggest letting it be. The same reason why I think you shouldn't perform water changes during a bacteria bloom, only if your parameters are out of whack. But there probably won't be any negative consequences if you do perform a small water change. Try not to disturb the filter media too much though. And a good place to always start if you are unsure if you should carry out a water change, is to check your parameters.
  20. So should I get new life spectrum? I can't find anywhere that shows all of the ingredients but I could get it if you think it is better than the food I have now http://nlsfishfood.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=60 Scroll down and it lists all the ingredients. The "anti-parasitic" ingredients I was referring to is their garlic (Allium Sativum) with the Thera-A formulas, which contain the natural anti-parasitic properties. There are plenty other food/medicine that are meant purely for anti-parasitic though, as mentioned. I recommend trying it. Or trying Pro-Gold or Repashy Soilent Green, if you can get it online.
  21. Please define "farily good" water parameters. Is the tank established and cycled? How long has is been set up? Could it be a bacteria bloom?
  22. Just wanted to add: I've been contemplating the idea of using 2 of the large foam blocks for the 110, if they would both fit. It seems like would. And it seems like the foam block is geometrically the best shape that takes up the most amount of space and has a considerable amount of surface area for bacteria colonies. That way, during filter maintenance, I would remove them both, place the top one in bucket of aquarium water gently, and the bottom one in another bucket of aquarium water to ring out and rinse. A lot of bacteria colonies would still be on the bottom one, but the top one would be dedicated to it. Just seems like another whole foam block would have so much more surface area than a back of ceramic rings or bioballs and so on. Any thoughts?
  23. This form of pellet should not be the only thing you feed your fish. Now it certainly is better than nothing, as it contains some decent ingredients, but it's lacking a lot of natural fruit extracts, veggies, algae, garlic, spirulina, various anti-parasitic agents, and potentially contains more fillers, preservatives, artificial ingredients, flavor enhancers, and so on... If you were to feed your fish just that, you would need to supplement them with extra forms of nutrients and fiber. Which can be done with thawed out deshelled peas, blanched spinach, carrots, green beans, zucchini, and sparsley give treats like small bits of apple, orange, kiwi, and other frutis, along with brine shrimp and bloodworms. The key is to provide a varied diet, with adequate fiber. If pro-gold or repashy isn't available, how about New life Spectrum? And how about ordering your food online? You can get all 3 of those online.
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