Jump to content

EvilVegan

Regular Member
  • Posts

    221
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by EvilVegan

  1. So far 2 ryukin dead, one calico butterfly tail still on her side; the blackmoor and pleco seem to be mostly fine.

     

    I was just telling my wife how happy I was that the two ryukin I had gotten from the pet store to save them from ich were doing so well over a year later and they were the two that died.  The calico was a rescue from a friend, so I hope she recovers and I don't have to make a sad phone call.  

    The moor has lived through a bunch of crazy nonsense.  He popped his eye on some driftwood once then he tore a half-dollar-sized hole in his scales to the muscle.   Recovered with salt baths both times.  He's swimming around a bit weird, but I think he's just looking for his pals.  He doesn't seem to be having any issues staying upright or stationary.  Not sure how to tell if the pleco is okay, but they seem to be breathing and not moving much ... like normal.

     

  2. I forgot I was refilling my 220 gallon tank and it went from 79 to 59 degrees when the hot water ran out.

    The fish are clearly in shock, probably dead already (they're still moving, but two are upside down), but is there anything I can/should do?!

    Do I try to bring the temp back up (by warming water on the stove and adding it slowly) or wait for the 300W heater to warm the water slowly?!

    I'm so freaked out right now.

    I think oxygen is good, the tank has a sump and large trickle filter.  I treated it for chlorine again.  

    • Test Results for the Following:
      • * Ammonia Level(Tank)    
        • 0
      • * Nitrite Level(Tank)        
        • 0
      • * Nitrate level(Tank)        
        • ~5-10 (didn't really change color after 30 seconds, I can't tell)
      • * Ammonia Level(Tap)      
        • 0
      • * Nitrite Level(Tap)          
        • 0
      • * Nitrate level(Tap)          
        • 0
      • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)  
        • 7.8
      • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
        • 7.8  Water is known to be hard, but I don't have a good test kit for it right now.  

     

      • Other Required Info:
        • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?  
          • API Drops
        • * Water temperature?
          • 74
        • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?  
          • 120 (display) + 60 (refugium) gallons running for a couple months, using 100% of the filter media from a tank that had been running for 3 years (that previous tank is the refugium)
        • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
          • DIY 15-gallons-of-media (sponges and bioballs) Overflow/60 gallon Refugium.  Overturning around 600 GPH 
        • * How often do you change the water and how much?
          • Bi-Weekly, 20-40% depending on tannins.
    • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
      • 20%, ~2 weeks.
    • * How many fish in the tank and their size?
      • 6 fish ranging from 2 inches to 7 inches (not counting tail)
    • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
      • Prime
    • * What do you feed your fish and how often?
      • Mix of Hikari and pro-gold.  twice per day.
    • * Any new fish added to the tank?
      • No
    • * Any medications added to the tank?
      • Just added PraziPro and Pimafix
    • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.
      • Was in QT with salt (~0.2%.
    • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?
      • Fungus and now his skin is missing.
    • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
      • Flashing (not witnessed by me).  Eats fine, swims fine.  If he wasn't a zombie I'd think he was fine.   Not behaving differently than other fish.
      1
    • The plant is heavily planted with an off-cycle refugium that keeps oxygen at a good level with super low nitrates.  Pretty sure he just hit the driftwood while turning and got a cut that got infected.  I've removed all driftwood.  QT is getting up to room temp now.

      Here's a video showing my setup.  Enjoy the music, youtube picked it.
  3. Well the salt water did wonders, his eye returned to normal size and even the red bit I thought was going to be wonky forever fixed itself.  So I put him back in the main tank.

    About a week later, he's apparently started flashing (I haven't seen him do it yet, but my friend says he saw it) and has a giant fungal patch on his side and a hole in his beautiful tail.   If you see him from his right side he's fantastic.  If you see him from his left side he looks like a zombie horror show.  He's missing about 20% of his scales on one side, has a hole the size of a quarter on that side's tail fin.  He looks like Two-Face.  And unfortunately he almost always hangs out with his right side facing the room (which is why I missed it).

    All 5 of my other fish look great, no spots or missing scales or clamped fins or anything.  I'm so confused and sad that my prettiest fish is turning into a nightmare creature.

    I assume the directions are the same?  Isolate, salt, etc.

  4. Thanks AM, I thought it was too soon for antibiotics.  

    Any suggestions on temp?  I've got him in a 55 gallon tank that's half full, so not very deep and good agitation/oxygen levels.  I moved over some filter media too.  He's at 75 degrees right now to keep him in the same temp range as the display tank.

    Anything conclusive for Melafix?  I've heard different reports on it's efficacy.

  5. Don't. It can be done but acrylic tanks aren't frame tanks, the weight is meant to be distributed evenly across the bottom on a pad or extremely level surface. Picking it up and moving it around can create torsion, yes, but it can also risk hot spots in the tank where more weight of substrate or decor is pressing. That greatly increases the chance of cracking at that point.

    A glass tank could even get away with it, or a heavy enough plywood or acrylic, but most off the shelf ones are not that durable. The rule of thumb is it is moved completely empty or not moved at all, it's just not worth the risk to such an expensive tank otherwise. Remove the substrate and such into buckets and move the empty vessel, get everything done behind it, and then set it up again.

    I should add I have personally moved partially full acrylic tank on and off a stand. That's part of why I don't advise it. It didn't ruin my tank but it was a near thing and I still kept one end anchored while lifting the other, no less. Bad move for the back and tank, both.

    What was the thing about moving glass?  I also have a 75 gallon glass aquarium I need to move that has about 60 pounds of sand and plants in it.  It's just sand, so not as big of a problem.

  6. Hey guys, 

     

    I feel like I'm over thinking this, since aquariums hold hundreds of pounds of water, but I need to move my aquarium off my stand for a minute while I do some electrical work (and shimming...).  

     

    Can I, with the help of some other dudes, move a 6'x1.5' aquarium with sand/plants in it?   Just need to move it about 4 feet and set it down, then pick it back up and put it back.  No real jostling or angling.

  7. I should say I would never do goldfish walstad method, but wish you luck nonetheless :)

     

    I will definitely need it. They've left a lot of my current plants alone in sand-only substrate, but these new plants might be too tasty for them.

     

    I'm contemplating putting my existing HOBs on either side and having the sump intake/returns in the middle, with air stones spaced between.  The length of the tank is daunting.

  8. What kind of filter's do you have?

     

    It's a DIY franken-system, the display tank drains into an empty 55 gallon "settling" tank with a UV sterilizer, then that drains through a wet/dry that is closed at the bottom so CO2 won't go anywhere before it goes into a second planted tank that runs on a reverse lighting cycle, which then pumps back into the display tank from there...

     

    So... Sump I guess?

  9. Hey all,

     

    I'm setting up a big, planted aquarium and I was wondering if you guys had a suggestion on where to place the filter?  

     

    I read somewhere about creating a gyre in the tank by putting the return above the intake and having the intake a few inches above the substrate, so that water is pushed forward across the surface, then down along the front, the back towards the intake, then up into the intake.  My current setup has the return and intake on opposite sides of the tank with the intake skimming at the top and I can assure you that's not effective.

     

    I'm going for a Walstad-ish setup.  Dirt with a PFS cap.  So some amount of remaining waste is 'fine', as long as it blends in with the sand and hides behind plants.  

     

     

    Anyway, should I put the intake/returns on the side, to create a long gyre with a gentle slope to help waste get back to the intake eventually?  Or should I put it in the middle on the back?  Or in the corner in the back?

     

    The back/sides are in a garage and painted, so plumbing can be as ugly and bulky as necessary.

×
×
  • Create New...