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  1. I don't doubt you, but the fact remains that flash can and does work, IF you have the right flash. I don't use flash, and I have not found the need to. You can argue the point that Nikon puts the article to promote DSLR camera sale, but that doesn't diminish the point in this case. As for your point earlier, point and shoots can be quite fine for fish pictures. Of course they aren't going to be as crisp, but you will find quite a few amazing point and shoot pics on this forum. Hi Alex, I agree with what you say, it is just that people have really different scale of what they accept as good quality. Point and shoot are technically limited to be weak performers in low light conditions. They do pretty well when the light is strong, so bringing light into the tank is the key to excellent photos, no matter the camera. DSRL / Mirrorless have more options to work in low light or to bring light inside - either using flash or constant light. What I am saying is that first people have to bring light inside the tank. Second - they have to stay away from the light in order to avoid reflections. Bringing light inside and keeping it there, not spilling outside will make wanders for any camera. Still point & shoot will fall behind, and to me the result will be more or less a compromise. At last - easiest way to do good photos is to invest in some high-power bulbs and use them only when you shoot fish. Bring the light in, and your camera will do wonders, no matter what is it. After all this is what photography means - drawing with light.
  2. To me these are guided sales ways Nikon have exellent example of fish flash photography as part of SB700 flash product example guide. Check it out here - http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-700samples.pdf Still - it is always valid for any other camera. You have to be explorer - explore around you and you'll find your way.
  3. Hi there. I've just read the article and I have some pros and cons to it. I just want to share my experience on taking pictures of aquariums in different conditions. Here is a link to some of my pictures I have taken both of my aquarium and in public locations. http://flic.kr/s/aHsjxY3rNB So, here are my guides: 1. Reflections: Reflections are always a problem, however reflections occur when there is more light outside the aquarium, rather than inside. Easiest way to fight reflections is to stay in the dark. So when you're taking pictures of your aqua turn off your ambient light and let the aquarium glow. Your camera will still be able to focus as there is enough light for it in the tank. REMEMBER: Turn off your built-in flash unless you are reaaaaaallllly close to the glass and the reflection is not visible. 2. Aperture - using large aperture is tricky - if you use aperture 1.8 or 2.8 - you will have a reaally shallow depth of field (focus zone). This means that only some part of your fish will be focused. This will allow you however speeds around 1/80 to 1/160 depending on your tank light and ISO settings. So, if you're not using flash, you definitely depend on large aperture to get focused pictures without motion blur. 3. Flashing - sure you can use flash, however it must always be external. I am using flash all the time in my pics, it is positioned on one side of the aqua or sometimes I place it on top of it, replacing the aquarium lighting. Using an external flash is really rewarding - you can use smaller aperture (f8 - f16) and you are not slave to the speed. You can take as good pictures in 1/160 as well as 1/16 both on lowest ISO setting. The results are slightly different, but overall you don't get blurred shots. WHY or HOW? - the fact is that the presence of light causes the blur, not the absence of it. It is hard to understand at first, but it is simple. Imagine the following - you have been in the club where there is this white, flashing strobe that blinks very fast, and it seems to you that you see dancing movements like stills - the persons in front of you just stop in a split second and on the next flash they've changed their postures. It is not that they're not moving in the darkness, it is just you don't see it. The same happens with your camera - if you stay in a dark room, your camera is set to iso 100 aperture to 8 and your speed to 1/16, and you do not use a flash, you will hardly get anything else but a dark black picture. If there is an external flash above the aquarium, that flashes for just a split second - you will get all your fish frozen in that split second. Taking the same picture on speed 1/160 will produce merely the same result. The difference will be in the contrast of the picture and the dark zones - the pic on 1/160 should be darker in shadows, more contrasty. Of course flashing at 1/160 of a second puts more stress on your strobe, so your next shot will be delayed a bit. So, if you can get a remotely controlled flash unit above the tank - use it confidently, and remember ALWAYS avoid the built-in one. 4. Lens types - you are not limited to using MACRO or MICRO lens. Any kinds of lens are good as long as you know what you're doing. My latest pictures are shot with 50-150 mm lens from about 1.50 to 2 meters from the aquarium. Zoomed to the max (150mm) produces the so called 'close-up' photos. They are not macro shots, but you can see enough detail on the fish and scales. My older pics are made with my older lens 50mm 1.8 and 18-70 kit lens. Using longer lens to me was more rewarding than 'pressing' the camera next to the glass. WHY? Because it solves several problems - 1st fish do not get upset or nervous, 2nd I am avoiding reflections caused by the aquarium light, 3rd I have more control on the pic as I see more - using zoom lens I can focus on single fish and then fast get back and get a group shot. 5. Point and shoot cameras - to my opinion are pretty much incapable of taking adequate photos as they lack a lot of control. So - yes, the article on Nikon page says the truth, but it does not show all the aspects of fish photography, neither all the options you have.
  4. Hey, no one been posting on this thread for so long, and I could not find another one on the topic. I have a calico fantail that had nice black spots all over, I went on vacation for a week, and when I came back - no spots on the body, only a few black ones on the fins. Orange and white spots remain the same, but all black ones are gone. I have the fish for like ... 10 months now, and I guess it was pretty much young when I got it, but still, the change happened in less than a week. Anyone got any ideas?
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