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Arctic Mama

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Everything posted by Arctic Mama

  1. Look up Gary Hater on Facebook He’s wonderful. https://thegoldfishcouncil.org/team/gary-hater/
  2. Can you please get the information and history details of the fish and the tank into the actual form? I look to specific parts of it for information and refer back often, the organizational format helps me help you. if you’re able, the strips are really inaccurate and a liquid test kit is a better choice. We recommend the API Freshwater Master Test kit, which Chewy has for a good price for US residents. Your nitrate is either mis-tested or off the charts ridiculously toxic. What kind of water change schedule do you have? Tank volume? Feeding schedule? Many more details please
  3. I’m going to need a lot more information and pictures to help more, so I know we aren’t missing a cause. Please attach as many clear pictures as you can that show him floating and his sore spot. Then fill out our diagnostic form with as much information as you can. A video of him swimming would also be helpful Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  4. Unfortunately swimbladder issues are usually either blockages due to constipation or a mechanically damaged or malformed swimbladder. Constipation you can observe with a fish who has thick poops or bubbles in their poop and whose swim bladder buoyancy issues improve after two or three days of fasting the fish. If that isn’t the case, there is no medication to treat it. A floater or lister will always do that. Many can live long and happy lives that way but some have problems that lead to secondary infections snd wounds from either being exposed to the air on one side or pinned to the bottom running substrate. Those can be treated too, if it’s an issue. Fish with swimbladder issues often benefit from shallow water - like six inches of depth, like a kiddie pool or under bed tote. Give that a try as well if you have a persistent floater and see if it doesn’t improve their balance in the water.
  5. How many days total did you run it? You want to continue the treatment for at least a week after you see the last visible symptom, as parasites hatch out and their eggs aren’t always susceptible to medication like the spawn are.
  6. If it progressed to pop eye we would use a combo of a different gram negative antibiotic (oxytetracycline is my favorite heavier hitter that is still broad spectrum) plus metronidazole. If those don’t nail it, it’s not bacterial in nature and we are pretty constrained on other treatments.
  7. If his behavior and eating are normal I wouldn’t pursue further treatment at this time. The clouding of the lens is harmless if there aren’t further signs of infection
  8. Localized swelling can be a blockage, injury, issue with a single organ, abscess, etc. it does happen and if the fish is swimming and pooping and not showing other symptoms we generally just shrug and let it go with the fin issues I think antibiotics were a good choice, since water quality doesn’t seem to have been the culprit to explain fin rot like that. But the scales lifting over the side could be any number of non-lethal things or some note problematic ones, and it’s good to watch to see what, if anything, that area might be responsive to.
  9. If we need another med it will be kanaplex or oxytetracycline, if you want to order some to have on hand just in case.
  10. Do a full treatment of the sulfaplex, no salt of either kind right now. Remember too, all these medications work more effectively and a bit quicker in warmer temperatures, which speed up the metabolism of the fish. So I’d bump up that tank temp to the mid seventies over the next few days. You should see improvement within 4-5 days. The pineconed scales are a symptom but at this point we want to see it the meds are fixing things internally, not the epsom temporarily reducing any swelling. The lifted scales aren’t severe enough that one would need to reduce that swelling for comfort, from the looks of it. Continue the sulfaplex for a MINIMUM of 10 days, 14 is better.
  11. So to be clear you’ve seen improvements in behavior, but new tail streaks? Or were those happening before? The eye actually looks good. There is definitely an infection and he may lose it, but it doesn’t look like it’s spreading around the rest of his body/head. If the tail streaks are new you may try turning the temp down a few degrees and seeing if the intensity of the streaks lessens to more of a low grade pink rather than blood red. Streaking takes a long time to subside fully, but sometimes stress from heat can exacerbate it.
  12. It’s your call, I don’t feel strongly one way or the other, but I think they’re fun to have going
  13. Could be an infection, could just be slime coat. Tough to say but I’m inclined to think it is excess slime coat from the treatment. Keep watching it and if it the lens gets milkier, bloody, or swollen/distended we can talk antibiotics.
  14. In the water, I redone it daily at full strength after a complete water change, because the ammonia builds up otherwise. You can sometimes stretch it with very light feeds but you don’t want to stress the fish with zero food, either. It takes more medication to do it this way but I think the results for water quality and potency are superior. Scooping the fish into some Tupperware or a little glass bowl, changing out the water and redosing the medication, and then scooping them back in with your hand is the easiest way to do this. I like my temperature as warm as they can stand it, usually 78-80 degrees F. With a good air stone bubbling away they usually aren’t gasping at this heat, though some fish are more sensitive than others. Bump the temp up slowly, obviously.
  15. Hi there! It’s difficult to tell at this point if the fluid retention around the eye is because of actual systemic dropsy causing the pop eye or an ocular infection, alone. The treatment is going to look the same at this point, but we may have to adjust if it doesn’t clear up with this med. in your hospital tank or buckets, dose Kanaplex in the main tank. NO EPSOM SALT right now - not because it might not help, but because I want to see if the eye responds solely to antibiotics (an infection that is localized) as opposed to dropsy being alleviated with some fluid shifting. Ten days of Kanaplex in warm, clean water. We should see improvement within four or five days, at least less haziness of the lens of the eye, if it’s working. Do you need more specific instructions?
  16. Go with the King British, but remove all the salt first before beginning that treatment or they will interact.
  17. Since we don’t know what is causing this, you could try several treatments like malachite green and dimilin and the like, and see if it helps. Any chemical treatment for Ich is actually going to be what you’re looking for, if you have some local candidates I can check the ingredients list. Paraguard is a lot more gentle, but that’s a long ship lead time.
  18. To get off the film I just use a piece of filter floss pad as an algae scouring pad and usually do a 50% water change, scrub the glass while the water level is down, refill to about 80%, and then drain back down and refill again. Two partials change a significant portion of the water volume, and usually plenty for proper glass cleaning. Now if you genuinely need a 100% change I do the same technique as above, but instead I’ll drain it down to an inch or two of water, just enough to cover the fish. Then refill it halfway, drain back down to an inch or so, and refill it all the way. This is effectively a 100% change for anything except getting actual toxic chemicals out of the tank.
  19. My goldfish pictures aren’t great. A tripod and rapid burst helps, as does a very dark room behind the tank. But I’m still pretty terrible at it! sexing goldfish, I don’t bother unless I see breeding tubercles. You’re all females to me until I witness those 😆
  20. I took my birthday money from my mama and grabbed some new fish! I was down to one tiger Barb and my little clown pleco in my ten gallon tropical tank, so I picked up an albino ancistrus, two male guppies, and six females to let the kids watch cute little livebearers. They males are pink panther, the females were from a mixed tank and I believe there are two tequila sunrise, one russian blue, two pink panther, and one green snakeskin female total. There just weren’t enough pink panther coloration to get a full harem of them, so now we get to have some fun with the genetics of these color crosses ☺️ Took some pictures of the setup after they’d settled in for the evening. Excuse any blurred fish, they swim rather fast! what is even funnier is this is the most active I’ve seen the tiger barb in two months, he went into hiding when it was just down to three of them and then we lost the last two and he wouldn’t really even eat, let alone swim around. Now he’s out and about in the tank again, and I’m pretty sure he thinks he is a guppy 🤣 What is more surprising is that I haven’t seen him nip at all, the male guppies actually circle HIM more than he messes with them. It’s adorable.
  21. Hi Hannah! Is he having any floating or drifting issues when not swimming actively? I ask this because sometimes fish with swimbladder issues can appear or dart or flash because of how they swim when they’re trying to defeat their buoyancy/imbalances, I have one who you’d swear was a dart/flash guy, but he’s been doing it for a year and a half and he’s also my first fish to turn upside down pinned to the top of the tank if I overfeed If the answer to this is negative, the next course I’d have you try is ten days of Paraguard. It works fine with the salt in and will help nail additional potential ectoparasites, if it isn’t flukes causing the issue. Three week long rounds of prazi (three days in, the four days out, repeat) should take care of any flukes currently attached or hatching out, which it sounds like you have done.
  22. That’s an interesting fish food, I can’t say I’d have tried it! Just be careful, bananas are very high in sugar compared to what the fish normally eat. Small treat only if you’re deviating that far from their normal diet
  23. That is wonderful news! Those sort of asymmetrical bulges often aren’t the same kind of issue as organ failure related dropsy, but hearing it was not caused by an internal issue is wonderful news for your fish! Hopefully the antibiotic helps, along with the pond treatment. Keep us posted here as to how both go!
  24. Happy Mother’s Day to you as well! It’s been a little rough here with the baby, but my big kids were so sweet in making me cards and gifts
  25. Given the way it’s bulging more on one side than the other, it could very well be a tumor of blockage. Is this fish eating and pooping? Our normal diagnostic form is for tanks and not ponds, but I need as many details about his history and your environment and treatments as you can give me, please. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
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