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Arctic Mama

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Everything posted by Arctic Mama

  1. So the rock probably didn’t make much of a difference, I wouldn’t worry. A good knocking out of any gunk in the filter pad, changing food to reduce the sludge, and trying to treat this to narrow down if it is an infection versus organ damage is really all we can do. you need a broad spectrum gram negative antibiotic, like kanamycin or oxytetracycline. Both are available online and sometimes in physical fish stores if they’re not chains, but a lot of the big chains don’t sell antibiotics at all anymore Here is a link to the oxy online, and I believe they sell Kanamycin as well. https://wattleydiscus.com/product/oxytetracycline-hydrochloride-powder/
  2. Oh no. It likely wasn’t contamination, more likely the gunk in the tank made it easier for an overgrowth of the normal bacterial populations that colonize the tank to overgrow. The other theory involving repashy is that the sludge they cause in filters lowers their performance and stresses the fish with water quality issues like persistent high nitrates. But either way, there seems to be a lot of health issues longer term linked with its use and nobody can exactly figure out why. But after feeding super green on and off for several years I’ve noticed similar problems. Fish that just get sick more frequently, including with persistent fluid eye rings that get more and less swollen off and on for months until the fish finally gets sick enough to show other symptoms. Which may not be what is happening here, given how fast you said this came on it would be dropsy related. my recommendation is to switch to a pellet food and drop the gel, and if you’re going to feed veggies that’s fine too. If no other fish is showing symptoms (which is what you made it sound like) then please move the fish that needs treating to a hospital tank/quarantine so we only medicate the one. And let me know which meds you have on hand
  3. Yes, he got sick with the tank cycling and stressing him. If you have obtained a liquid test kit (as mentioned above they’re much much more accurate) please test your water morning and night. As soon as nitrite or ammonia crosses .25 ppms you need a water change, and I advocate as big as possible - 80-100%. It’s much less stress for the fish than massive parameter swings and only adds another week or two to the duration of time it takes the tank’s filter to mature. To ease nitrite poisoning you can add 1 teaspoon of aquarium safe salt (pure salt, no additives like iodine or anti caking agents - pickling or rock salt work great) per gallon of water. Methylene blue is another great treatment if you’re seeing nitrite spikes, you can keep that in the water at 1 teaspoon per five gallons. These would be treatments to consider once the antibiotics are complete, along with your daily water testing. Depending on the tank size and fish messiness sometimes twice daily changes that are smaller work better - I do that on fry tanks and when I get a new fish in quarantine. ultimarely though, Dwight’s issues were husbandry related - not changing out the water enough or frequently enough with an immature filter to keep the waste products breaking down under control. It’s also sometimes called new tank syndrome, and happens in cycling tanks. But the good news is that if you are watchful daily and stay on top of large volume changes enough to control those spiking parameters he should regain his good health and stay healthy. But once a fish is stressed by fluctuating or poor water quality their immune system weakens and they can become susceptible to bacterial overgrowth such as pseudomonas and aeromonas, which cause many of our infections we see commonly in aquaria. The antibiotics were the right treatment. Please poke us if this happens again before buying meds and we are happy to help you narrow down what to use and in what time duration and dose. But hopefully Dwight remains healthy for many more months of life!
  4. Also apologies on the radio silence, I’ve been busy!
  5. Sorry that is indeed pop eye, or rather dropsy showing up in fluid pressure around the eyes instead of under it. I have a few fish that persistently have this on and off, some are prone to it. But oftentimes there is an underlying infection causing the issue. Please isolate this fish in a hospital tank and let me know if you see any other behavioral changes over the next two days. Bottom sitting, floating in the current or at the top of the tank, poor appetite, etc. What meds do you have on hand? I’m also going to say it - those persistent fluid ring fish? We saw much less of that when we stopped feeding repashy. Something about the gel formula just seems to gunk up the tanks and create biofilms that I think make the fish more prone to illness long term. I’ve seen it in multiple people’s tanks, all with good husbandry practices. It’s infuriating because it’s hard to prove, but I’d consider going back to a good quality pellet when this is done or only feeding repashy once a week or so.
  6. Unfortunately it pretty much is just a maintenance thing. Sometimes adding plants and peat can help make the water softer and more acidic and assist with the uptake of those minerals, but that’s not ideal for stability. I’d just grin and bear it unless you’re willing to experiment with augmenting the chemistry on an ongoing basis.
  7. Yeah I’d say ten gallons is the minimum unless you’re keeping a single sex of guppies, and even then they like swimming around. A twenty long is a better choice. I like Platys, they’re cute!
  8. Lady Loki could definitely be changing, it’s common! As shown above, pictures help for the comparison I’ve had fish go from orange to white, pale orange to almost red, black to a lemon yellow and medium orange, etc.
  9. Also liking the forum upgrades! I’ll have to poke around more later, nice work @koko!
  10. Yup that’s major color change! I always enjoy that in younger fish, it’s interesting how the expression of their colors changes as they grow. Some have much less stable coloring than others, even with no black present. Buddy is cute!
  11. We have had heat waves here too. It’s not fun. Today is about 90 F with high humidity. Also one of my daughters is turned 13 today. Crazy crazy how time flies.
  12. They eat them more easily if they’re squeezed out of the shells. Spinach is popular here too, but like one leaf per goldfish, blanched. Mine love blanched zucchini too, if the ancistrus doesn’t eat it all first 😚 Koko that heart turned out great!
  13. The general rule is that frequent water changes do help the fish grow bigger because it removes growth inhibiting hormones released into the water with the fish’s waste. Most breeders keep vigorous water change schedules or flow through systems for this reason, along with optimal water quality. I think you can probably scale back to twice per week though. Heavy feeding of high protein food like bloodworms or mysis shrimp is the other main hack for growing big, vigorous goldfish. It works better than pellets, because those have filler, but heavier feeding in general will help. The tradeoff of warm water and heavier feeding is speeding up the goldfish metabolisms and shortening their lives a bit. It can stress their organs too, depending on the quality of the food. Generally speaking three small, protein heavy meals per day for a juvenile fish should be plenty to help them grow well without overdoing it. Beyond that and I think it can get dodgy for their long term health, even though many breeders swear by it.
  14. My guppies are breeding right now too, they’re fun
  15. Those are cute! Plaster in molds?
  16. …. How did it get so hot? Municipal tap water, even in places like Palm Springs or Tucson, doesn’t usually get above 80 degrees or so. In terms of water cleanliness, don't over-clean! Tossing filter cartridges instead of just knocking out the solids and rinsing them quickly in tank water can cause cycle bumps, and those cycle bumps can cause things like cloudy water and algae blooms. Generally speaking your tank water should get fairly clear within about two days of a water change and lights off. If it doesn’t, we need to start testing the water chemistry and figure out what is going awry. you should be absolutely fine returning the cartridge and bio wheel - keep those running, the hotter water won’t do much damage as long as it is dechlorinated.
  17. Good luck on your story!!! As for why fry look different, do you mean their baby coloration? It makes them blend in with pond water and the muddy bottom of streams and lakes, making them camouflaged to predators who would eat them. As they get bigger and stronger the fry colors shift, but it’s a preservation strategy to help the goldfish survive to reproductive age, themselves
  18. That’s called a blood parrot, they’re a kind of hybridized South American cichlid They're wonderful characters, very fun fish. But not at all compatible with goldfish. For one thing they thrive in warm, acidic tank conditions! They can also be territorial fin nippers.
  19. I’d need to see some pictures of the fin rot to help with treatment, and we need the diagnostic form filled out just to assure nothing else is going on that might have come in with the new fish, and that tank chemistry is as it should be and conducive to healing, too. so pictures, please, and fill this out as completely as possible Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  20. I love overgrown tanks, they always look more natural to me. Yours is beautiful, Hannah!
  21. I need to do some tonight too, in the guppy tank and goldfish, too. And the guppy fry bucket. My fish ADORE bug bites, all of them. I’m pretty sure Fluval has made some actual version of fish crack with those 😂
  22. Huh, not that I know of. Not a living fish, anyway, unless they were squeezed or had an organ rupture due to trauma or something similar. Pineconing, even severely, doesn’t really look the same. Weird.
  23. Just remember you can and should run prazi annually on all your goldfish. It is harmless to them but very helpful for controlling Gill flukes, which do tend to proliferate over time. I’m so glad things are looking better.
  24. Never run carbon again unless we tell you to it’s almost useless in a healthy tank, and the big water change is definitely sufficient to remove the prazi. I’m glad it shipped to you so quickly!
  25. Prazi has a very wide margin of safety, it’s hard to overdose. Just do a heaping quarter teaspoon and you’ll be fine I like to hold it in my hand and rub my fingers together in the water to disperse it, because it clumps up otherwise.
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