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Arctic Mama

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Everything posted by Arctic Mama

  1. I change more like 80%, but yeah. As long as your nitrates are staying in the 5-10 ppm range you’re good, whether that is twice weekly or every two weeks… it really depends on the bio load of your aquarium, but in a cycled tank that’s what we aim for. Find a heater, I don’t care 😆 seriously there are lots of good brands. I’ve used eheim, ebo jager, tetra, many great brands. For a tank that size a 100 watt should be plenty. Yes you leave it on 24/7, you set the temp you want and the heater has a sensor and cycles on and off as needed to hold it steady filter cleaning - correct. Thwack the media against the side of the rinse bucket and squish any sponges or floss in old tank water, not tap water which has chlorine and will kill some of your beneficial bacteria. Monthly with this, add or replace part of the media as it disintegrates, but otherwise you’re good! I’ve had floss pads in canisters for 3-4 years before they break down and sponges longer than that! I think you’ve got it!
  2. ah I thought I followed this thread and didn’t click it, sorry! You can @(my username) to grab my attention if that happens again Yes, I think the two filters should let you get away with partial weekly changes. Always err on the bigger side if your water is stable, and make sure you’re knock the gunk out of your filters monthly so they don’t make your nitrates spike over time. Get a heater - seriously. It will warm it up and hold it steady and if you need to treat in a hospital tank you’ll need a heater and this way you will have one on hand. My tanks are planted - LED lights are still my fave. I can’t really advise you on specifics, because it depends on the dimensions of your tank. But I love the information page on American Aquarium Products for this and they sell very solid products too, but can help you narrow down which type of light might be best for you: https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquaRayLEDLighting.html
  3. Prazi pro is a good product, but it is expensive for what you get (especially for high gallon setups) and I have found it to be less effective, in my own systems and in advising treatment for others. Also you may double check the article, it was not about using salt as a long term water additive or prophylactically, but as a treatment for illnesses and mitigation of parasites in higher volume medicinal quantities, or as a bath. Both things we mentioned and support here. What we are saying is that, in the absence of any symptoms, it is better not to use it. And if you do have symptoms of parasites and these fish are new buys and not out in the pond yet, use it in a dip/bath or a hospital tank, as plants do not like higher volumes of salt and the lower concentrations are not particularly effective anymore - overuse has caused salt resistant parasites. Pretty much everything we have said is what that article echoed. But if you want to take advice from other sources please do so, just don’t try and mix treatments with our recommendations as it can be confusing, or even harmful, if parameters or treatment is happening outside of the course we recommend (salt interacts with some parasitic treatments, binds to certain chemicals, etc).
  4. And microscopes and slides/stains/cover sheets are not expensive. I think I got all and a decent microscope for $70? We use it for our high school bio and such.
  5. I know right?! If only they’d scrape their own glass and squeeze their own sponges!
  6. And yes to this, if you’re dealing with flukes, lice, etc, there are more specific treatments to manage them. Dimilin, flubendazole, even formalin. It just depends on what you’re actually trying to treat. But prophylactic treatments in ponds really should be kept to a minimum, I think.
  7. Yes, no to keeping salt in as an ongoing additive. For fluke treatment powdered praziquantel can be purchased off eBay and from many vendors, and that is more economical and very effective for treatment. If the pond is planted don’t use salt for parasite treatment in the main pond, it can be very hard on the plant life, there are other types of treatment that might be better. If this is just precautionary with new fish, consider removing the animals for salt dips instead of in pond salting, and yes, I’d say modify your prazi rounds slightly longer - seven days of prazi in, seven days out, for two weeks total. Run two or three of those rounds (4-6 weeks total) and you should have an almost non existent fluke load remaining.
  8. Yeah I always just get pickling or rock salt because it’s straightforward. Keep it simple, right?
  9. The filters look good, as does the tank size. It’s always a good idea to have a filter to hold the tank steady, most fancies do better around 74-76 degrees F, and few people have houses that stay that warm year round. lighting, I honestly really like LED strip lights, they sell many on Amazon and of the three I’ve had all have been solid and are still operational today.
  10. I keep thinking I’m on this thread and not the chat thread and getting confused! Thank you for the heads up, Acro!
  11. Ugh I have had so many swim bladder fish. Blech. And one of mine has been increasingly stuck upside down at the top over the last few months. I’m thinking of increasing the current, honestly that often helps, though it seems counterintuitive.
  12. Hi Jim, I’m sorry to hear your fish are struggling! We need a lot more details about what’s going on to help, pictures of some of the affected fish, both sick a passed if you have them, and please give me a good description of the environment around the tank. Poisoning from cleaning supplies or the water source is not uncommon with this sort of die off. Please test your older tank water and tap source and fill this out as completely as possible. I’ll do my best to assist. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  13. That is very unusual! Something must have caused a filter bump, if it’s not coming from your tap. Continue monitoring the nitrite and you can dose meth blue at 1 teaspoon per ten gallons while the nitrite is up, it is protective to the fish’s blood chemistry and gills 1 teaspoon per gallon of aquarium safe salt is also protective against nitrite poisoning.
  14. Two reasons to use a hospital tank - 1) no filter, so less biomass to interact with and exhaust the med 2) less water to medicate, so less expensive
  15. I don’t believe this looks urgent enough that you couldn’t order meds if needed. These sorts of infections are not usually super fast moving (and if they are they tend to not be the type that are responsive to treatment). So it’s your call on the meds - but if they’re shipping within the business week that should be fine.
  16. It’s not a parasite, it looks like a bacterial infection. That can happen with the stress from the cycle bumps of moving to a new tank, where the swinging water chemistry can weaken the fish’s natural immunity to various pathogens and lead to infections, just like a human under stress. Your ammonia level is what’s making me think it was specifically a cycle bump causing this. The water changes aren’t big enough to keep that under control - as soon as you’re showing .25 ppms of ammonia please do a BIG water change to remove it from the tank, 80% or more. I usually drain down until the fish is barely covered and then refill, which works for a big change that that doesn’t need to be complete. Staying on top of the ammonia with daily water testing until the new filter matures might be enough on its own, but a course of antibiotics could be needed. If you can acquire Seachem Kanaplex or Triple Sulfa either of those are broad spectrum enough to be a good choice for getting this under control. The red belly WITH the red fins is where I get a bit worried, but you can watch and wait for another few days with impeccable tank water and see if the cleaner environment is enough on its own, if you do not wish to medicate right away.
  17. I’m really not sure what the perceptive range is, but our goldfish can see us at least across the living room. I don’t know if it is our steps or size or whatever but they know when DIFFERENT people come to the tank, because they heave differently for my kids or husband than me. If they see me walk by they begin their hungry dance.
  18. I haven’t ever heard of vitachem, but the fish both look lovely! Very nice planted tank with Shion too, it can be so tough to maintain landscaping with a goldfish.
  19. You really got your painting on lately!
  20. Oh no! What keeps causing issues? That’s frustrating
  21. Honestly it’s not a big enough swing I’d worry. Unless your fish doesn’t seem to tolerate h the changes, just change 50% out today and add in just tap water, then do normal 80-100% water changes from there on out. If your ranchu seems to bottom sit or act ‘off’ after a water change we can talk about smaller, more frequent changes. But I wouldn’t borrow trouble on that - as long as it isn’t unstable, swinging water that off gassed to a drastically different set of parameters after a day or two, there isn’t much to worry about. The benefits of fresh water without the ammonia and nitrates far outweigh the disadvantages of a potential mineral and small pH swing. one day of transition off the RO should be PLENTY, especially given that it’s not really changing things that much.
  22. The rule of thumb is that distilled and purified water is bad for fish, for the reasons I mentioned above. We have seen more than one animal behave off and get sick in RO water over the years. We don’t know where the line is for what is neutral or safe and when it begins to cause harm in terms of hardness, but softer water is not ideal for goldfish, and at best you’re adding an unnecessary complicated step Given than many of us keep our goldfish in alkaline, hard water (mine is always at least 8.0 too, and very heavy with calcium), it hasn’t been necessary to augment water that is hard but stable. If the pH was fluctuating I think other arguments could be made.
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