Jump to content

Arctic Mama

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Arctic Mama

  1. Keep us posted as to how it goes and, even if it seems like it’s making no difference, complete the treatment course entirely. Antibiotics always need a full course, in animals and humans, too, or antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria become a thing. Good luck
  2. It can be fed, it just has to be done carefully. Some meds are garbage that way, but Kana is firmly okay. A water course won’t be shorting him anything if you didn’t complete a full treatment last time. That scoop looks goods 👍
  3. If you’re thinking you may run out of kanaplex definitely feed extremely lightly so you can get away with water changes and medication redosing every two days. Just scoop the fish and some tank water into a small bucket or dish, change all the aquarium water, add in the measure of kanaplex, and then gently use your hand to scoop the animal back in. Make sure the water is dechlorinated and about the same temperature. And you’re good to go.
  4. You’d be putting it in the water if the focus isn’t here. Two weeks of meds, 1 measure per ten gallons, do complete water changes every day or two, if your ammonia is still below .25ppms. Usually I do complete daily changes because the ammonia in my hospital tank gets high, quickly, but that does use more meds. The point is that when you change the water change all of it and redone the full measure of meds, and do that for a full fourteen days.
  5. Oh yes you definitely need to run a complete course of any antibiotic, including kanaplex. Two weeks, ten days is the absolute minimum. The good news is that if you dosed it that lightly I think you are good to run a solid two week course right now. I thought you’d done a full treatment round. That still means you can’t run it concurrently with the other meds because of shipping time, but it might give you some options.
  6. I know this is hard, and I’m sorry there aren’t better options. Your best bet, regardless of what works for this fish, is to order your basics meds to have on hand for future emergencies. Keep good stock of metronidazole, kanamycin, the polyguard or some source for triple sulfa or furan 2, methylene blue, praziquantel, and both aquarium and epsom salt. That’s your solid goldfish first aid kit that I’d say we use to treat 90% of what we encounter on this forum. Other treatments are specialty items like dewormers or heavier hitting antibiotics that are harder to obtain.
  7. The focus is a binding agent for the kanaplex to become a medicated food. So feeding the kanaplex while using the polyguard in the water is all I’d recommend at this point - to be strong enough to possibly knock this out. If the fish is too sick, too fast for the shipping, that’s often a sign the illness is severe and might not respond favorably to treatment, anyway. ESPECIALLY since you already used kanaplex before and had some, but not, huge, success. Using it again while waiting for the poly guard is unlikely to help much, and it just means you’re exposing the fish to a treatment that then cannot be combined with another later on for better effect. Treating him with kanaplex alone right now is almost guaranteed to be a waste of meds. It wasn’t strong enough before and using it again won’t make it more effective, but likely less as the bacteria in his system could potentially show more resistance to the treatment. Obviously all I can do is give advice and the choice is yours, but if you dose kana now, again, you cannot feed it with focus to bind it later.
  8. Don’t do it in the water again just yet, it will be good to give the fish a break from it while you wait for the focus. Plus you cannot feed it for two weeks if you started it in the water, exposure is cumulative. If you absolutely have to start a treatment now then do the polyguard, but I really do think your best bet is to wait for everything to arrive and then run the treatments together. Unless you’re having emergency symptoms a break won’t hurt, and could help.
  9. That’s your best choice of the options, I think. That in the water with kanaplex food is the strongest regimen available to you without a vet, from the sound of it. Two weeks course of both simultaneously and maintain warm, clean water throughout.
  10. Oh if you can get focus that will make things much easier, they have a direct translation of amount to scoops of meds. Go that route. Maracyn 2 is a bad choice here, it’s even more damaging to kidneys than Kanamycin. Unfortunately Neomycin isn’t well absorbed internally, it wouldn’t make sense to feed it. Oxytetracycline or nitrofurazone (yellow powder, furan 2) are really your best bet. You can try metronidazole but that’s a gram positive antibiotic and usually dropsy is caused by gram negative bacteria types. It’s up to you, I’m sorry for the shipping drama.
  11. Generally kanaplex by mouth is dosed by weight, I can try to find a table for that if you want it. And yes, do not use Kana for more than 21 days without a six week break, minimum. Closer than that and it seems to be less effective and more of an issue for the fish’s body. Adding in another gram negative antibiotic that plays nicely with Kana, like furan 2 or triple sulfa, can also increase the efficacy as they work synergistically with one another.
  12. That fish never went in a hospital tank after his initial treatment for columnaris, which I suspect damaged his kidneys a bit. He had intermittent bouts of pineconing for months before it was persistent.
  13. Truth? Fish with slow, severe dropsy and no other symptoms tend to have a failing organ, kidneys, liver, etc. These are the sort of cases that don’t respond to antibiotics but sometimes are eased with epsom salt. If you want to try 1/2 tap epsom salt per ten gallons and see if that helps the swelling, you should notice a difference in a day or so. If any other symptoms or exposures could account for an infection we can talk about those, too. But idiopathic dropsy is usually just a fish getting sick from something a home aquarist often can’t treat. As long as the fish eats and swims you can leave them be, but if their behavior changes for the worse then I would euthanize, if it were my animal. Does that help? I’ve dealt with this in my own tanks over the years and it’s always a bit frustrating, I understand! It’s a helpless feeling to see a healthy fish start to swell and then degrade, but the most recent animal I had with this issue made it six months or so before his behavior with eating dropped off and he wasn’t enjoying good quality of life anymore. So, a long time, as dropsy goes.
  14. I agree! Things look good actually, I see the r improvement too 🥰
  15. You’re welcome, I’m sorry the treatment didn’t work in this case. With infections it is very much a coin toss as to whether a fish responds or not.
  16. The way to do it is to dose more clove oil once their gills stop moving, and give it about thirty minutes. That ensures brain death. Once gills aren’t moving I have often moved them to the freezer to finish it off, just in case. But I’d never put a sensate goldfish in there, only one that was already obliviously anesthetized. I’ve euthanized fairly large fish (six inches of body length and chub) and had no issues. when they’re fully dead I’ve noticed their eyes dilate and go vacant. It’s a particular expression you don’t see on a fish that is merely knocked out, that nobody is home anymore.
  17. I recommend clove oil as well, that’s all I use and it numbs them, no stinging or slow pain. Give the floating issues you’re mentioning and here he is red, whatever organ or internal location the infection is originating has swelled to the point of pressing on the swim bladder, which isn’t that unusual in later stage dropsy. I’m sorry
  18. Hi there! We need this form filled out as completely as possible, as well as someone up pictures of the animal under bright light, in your hand or from the side in the tank is fine. DIAGNOSTIC CHECKLIST Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  19. Like I said unthread it’s not a parasite if nothing new or living has been added to the tank in a year or three. That makes viral very unlikely too. But bacterial infections vary and can flare up with water quality swings or even just old age, as a fish weakens. The kanaplex was a good move, but if that isn’t improving his visible symptoms then it could be beyond what you can treat at home, hence why I mentioned bringing a vet on. There are other medication options too, but they take time to ship and if the kanaplex hasn’t been helpful at all I don’t hold out hope that oxy or triple sulfa is going to do what kana could not. Looking at your new pictures it could still be an abscess, because the redness and swelling are still very localized. But if it is internal it is likely to cause septicemia as it stands. Finish out the treatment course, but the way things look now if the fish isn’t improved after day seven of kanaplex I’m going to say it’s probably beyond what we can treat with the home medications and on water treatments you have available. However if the fish is swimming at eating, it’s okay to let things persist until his quality of life degrades. At that point euthanizing is often a kinder option than just letting them go on their own time. But eating and swimming are VERY good signs.
  20. If anything is going to treat it of what you can get your hands on, it would be kanaplex. When you say “getting worse” what specific symptoms of behavior? Any new pictures that would show us? What you have described sounds bacterial, but if there is an infection or a specific organ on the fish causing the asymmetrical bulging, the next step would be a vet and likely injected bactrim.
  21. Unfortunately that’s not one I’ve treated, but do definitely take pictures and share what your vet advises as you treat so we can all learn from your experience here hoping the best for your fish!
  22. Hey, so likely this is a bacterial abscess since the swelling is asymmetrical. I don’t believe this would be parasitic, just based on what you’ve described upthread. Unless you addd live food or a new plant there is no vector by which a parasite could enter a system with a single fish that’s been running multiple years Being in the UK makes this tough because antibiotics are the best for what you’re seeing, I’m pleased you ordered Kanaplex. At some point you should also order metronidazole and nitrofurazone to have on hand in your medicine kit for future use, so when you need them you’re not waiting on shipping. You absolutely can continue to use a dechlorinator, and you can do large water changes too. But if your fish seems to pout or bottle sit after water changes, consider doing 50% changes three days in a row to gradually remove the existing meds, instead of all at once. It will dilute them down without major swings in the chemistry. Finally, while your waiting for Kanaplex, you can absolutely use methylene blue and dose as the bottle instructs, it will inhibit the spread of bacteria further and is generally very healthy supportive for the animal. It’s a solid method for slowing infections or even reversing them via the antiseptic properties when you don’t have antibiotics on hand. And it’s very inexpensive, too!
  23. I already gave my answers in this thread If you want more definitive product reviews read through all the information blurbs on American Aquarium Products, they discuss some of the business favorites in depth and why, in both the product pages and learning articles. Beyond that, it’s up to you. I don’t have time to tell you exactly what to buy and my system is very different from yours, so product specific recommendations are mostly not going to apply, which is why I haven’t given more. But I’ve linked plenty to get you started and with things like bubblers or thermometers or substrate there is not much difference among them that isn’t obvious by price point. So just pick the nicest you’re willing to spring for and go with it. Good luck, share pictures when you’re all set up! We love ogling people’s systems and fish.
  24. Get whatever you want! Seriously, if you’re doing research buy whatever you’re comfortable with. 65 gallon going up only two or three degrees from room temperature doesn’t need a ton of power to bump up, and if you want to use it on a smaller hospital tank too if the need arises then a 200 watt is overkill. But seriously you’re overthinking this, I promise! Of all the parts of the hobby that are tricky, equipment is fairly simple. It’s more a matter of what you want to spend and the reliability and quality, than actual function. The cheaper stuff tends to last less time and not control parameters/speed/flows quite as tightly. But it still works just fine.
  25. I have four filters on my tank, plus two power heads. You can have as many as you want, and having at least two is good because sometimes one dies and you need a backup, or you need a filter for a quarantine tank or a new setup and can use your spare to seed the new tank’s cycling and help keep the water stable.
  • Create New...