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Arctic Mama

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About Arctic Mama

  • Rank
    Level 75

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  • Gender
  • Age
    Old enough to know better!
  • Location
    Land of the Buckeyes
  • Referred By
    Madame Google, many moons ago...
  • How many Goldfish
    More than I planned thanks to Cincy Ranchu!


  • Location
    Milky Way galaxy

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  1. Yeah, tie the stone to the cord and not the glass only because I worry the fishing line might melt if it’s against the heater Smaller fish tend to be faster as well. But if you see any real drama beyond some chasing just use a little plastic colander to float one of them in the fishy penalty box and give them a break.
  2. Why would the heater not be safe dangling...? Just use fishing line and tie the cord to a little stone to weight it down if it’s floating, it will be fine. They can certainly handle cooler temps but it means a longer quarantine, basically. I don’t really care what you do with the filtration; it’s your choice. If the canister doesn’t produce any bubbles with a spray bar do add an air stone for better gas exchange though Really, six of one, half dozen of the other. Cant help you with sexing, I have literally never bothered in two plus decades of goldfish keeping. There are YouTube videos but until breeding behavior or external markers emerge it’s not 100% certain.
  3. Just from the picture it does look like a tumor. If you search past threads you can see we have had people leave them, try to operate, etc. The thing is, sometimes they grow slowly and sometimes they’re more aggressive and become a drag on the fish. My general advice is to wait until it’s making swimming difficult before trying surgical excision, but that’s your choice. if you press on the lump does it seem soft and blood fills or harder like a pea?
  4. Very beautiful! I’m sure he will grow in no time!
  5. Honestly the lid probably doesn’t matter and unless the sponge filter is already running in a tank they can’t be seeded. Just use the HOB and don’t sweat it. Also current isn’t your enemy unless the fish is sick or very, very small. More is generally better, actually And no, you can just check it weekly before your water changes to make sure you didn’t get any random spikes, but with a mature filter pad I wouldn’t expect much, just don’t over feed the first two weeks.
  6. I usually do seed a quarantine filter, unless I’m sure I will need to treat for more than flukes. Congratulations on deciding on some new fish, I know it can be hard after losses. Geberally the longer the quarantine, the better. I like 6-8 weeks in nice, warm water (74-76 degrees F) to let anything hatch out if possible, there have been some rather resistant parasites out there. Unfortunately that doesn’t guarantee no losses, especially when you don’t know what viruses or bacteria the fish might be harboring in their systems that stress could bring forward. But a long quarantine gives you your very best shot
  7. Another option is something like a matten wall filter, which is essentially a giant sponge but with a slightly different setup. They function very similarly in the end and are still easy to maintain compared to a canister, though.
  8. Depends on what they are driven by. A sponge with a power head doesn’t have this problem because of increased suction, especially if there is other current driving poo toward the filters. But air pump sponges do tend to have a lot of debris, which should be siphoned out. It’s pretty normal with the method but not impossible to overcome. In a show tank I’m a fan of high flow sponges on a strong power head, though.
  9. Water looks good, goldfish have very unstable coloration throughout it their lives, so based on what you’re explaining I’d assume it is either a color change naturally or there was some mechanical damage to the tail, like getting stuck to a filter or nibbled on, and it’s healing. Could be either, neither is worrisome
  10. Oh sure, goldfish generally tolerate large water changes very well, much better than tropicals. In fact we do not recommend less that 50-80% water changes weekly for regular maintenance or their waste volume jacks the nitrates up too too high. Regularly rinsing the poo out of the filters (like, monthly) is also really necessary to keep those levels down. I just try to remember to open my canister at the beginning of every month to rinse out the excess in the tank water before that water change and knock the solids from the filter floss. Otherwise your filters become big nitrate factories with all the decaying food bad waste removed from the tank but still in the system breaking down and producing those huge nitrate amounts. They need to be removed from the water column regularly and from the mechanics filtration regularly but slightly less frequently. If you’re up above 10 ppms of nitrates it’s time, and 20-40 ppms is where we start seeing illness creep in or stress with some of the more delicate fish.
  11. Okay, nitrates. Do NOT worry about shock, that’s exceedingly rare at these levels and the fish will benefit from bigger water changes. Try at least 50% every two days until they’re down under 10 ppms. Next, the eye. Probably nothing you can do, it looks like scar tissue from an injury based in the pictures. Possibly some melanin change with the pigment going from dark to orange, too. But if the behavior is good, there is nothing I’d recommend doing except fixing the nitrate levels and continuing good care and management of the tank. Your routine and fish look great
  12. I realized I missed this! I’m in the middle of school with the kids but I’m coming back later to answer the questions, thank you for the details
  13. You could still do a drip system for fills, but you wouldn’t want recirculating among the tanks. Water going in, but draining out in an overflow and not through the filter. You can set your system with one component and not the other. And as someone who uses K1 I have been unimpressed, if it makes you feel any better. UV is okay but in an outdoor system it can be overkill, too, so that’s something to consider. After futzing around with multiple canister and fluidized bed options I’m coming to the conclusion that a good old fashioned sponge in a giant breeder pool is still the superior low current, clean, easy to maintain option. Shocking, but true. But yeah, for continuous good water having a drip/overflow drain system is still a good choice, and maybe use that water in the garden instead of again in tanks. You COULD UV sterilize it and recirculate, but you’re losing mineral/redox potential of the fresh water in, old water out, approach.
  14. You don’t need to separate him. If rearranging the tank doesn’t help, you can float a plastic colander or breeder box in there to give him a time out safe space to heal and not be chased like these - https://hdsupplysolutions.com/p/plastic-5-quart-colander-p752520?cid=ppc_all_bi_pfd_Shop|HDSS|US|Food Service&s_kwcid=AL!10728!10!81226492389820!4584826053537487&ef_id=X2H9KQAAACTkWVIu:20200916065521:s
  15. No meds right now, the issues look environmental. We may need to obtain some antibiotics but the goal right now is to work on water quality and tank maintenance and see if that solves the problem. Their eyes are scarred, and will probably stay that way. But a cleaner environment and pristine water quality will help their bodies best to heal from what I’m seeing. If we have other symptoms that indicate an infection we can treat that in a few weeks, but I’m not seeing anything right now that indicates that’s what is going on.
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