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Arctic Mama

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About Arctic Mama

  • Rank
    Level 75

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  • Age
    Old enough to know better!
  • Referred By
    Madame Google, many moons ago...
  • How many Goldfish
    More than I planned thanks to Cincy Ranchu!


  • Location
    Milky Way galaxy

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  1. Some are munchier than others, and some plants are more resistant to nibbling. I have a bunch of Amazon Swords they leave alone, and Java Fern and Anubias are also good bets. They still get nibbled but not munched down to nothing like, say, Elodea.
  2. Different tastes 😂. They prefer vegetation but won’t say no to bugs, guts, etc. if it can be grazed on they’ll do it. And yes, smell is a significant part of how they locate food
  3. Respectfully, the best practices on this for goldfish have evolved over the years, especially as imported fancies are proving more delicate and disease prone. I haven’t kept fish as long as you, I’m only edging up on 25 years at it, but trust me when I say that in a situation where ammonia is already high, getting the entirely of it out of the water column expediently is very important. The number one cause of disease I deal with on this forum is weakened and sick fish due to poor husbandry practices. The rules of thumb for tropical community tanks or even species tanks for other small and medium freshwater tropicals just don’t really work well for goldies, not unless the tank is extremely understocked. Koko has a care guide in this site that explains the best practices we recommend and why, it might be a helpful read for you so we are all in the same page. But as a helper here, I deal with a whole lot of tank issues and water quality is by far the biggest. With proper stocking and water changes, along with appropriate initial quarantine procedures, I’d say the vast majority of goldfish related maladies can be avoided entirely. But large, frequent water changes are absolutely a part of that. Also one more quibble, I may have misunderstood your post - the cycle for your tank is not primarily maintained in the water column, but the denitrifying bacteria that cling to the surfaces of the tank and filter media as biofilm. Complete water changes with treated tap water do NOT negatively impact the cycle. They don’t even make it budge. Knocking debris from mechanical filter media also won’t harm things, though you’re 100% right that any rinses should be in removed tank water or treated tap water (I prefer the former)
  4. @EdmGuppyGal actually that’s far too little for most goldfish, but they’re heavier waste producers than most freshwater home aquarium species. We don’t recommend less than 50% water changes weekly, and more is often preferred. Either two 50% changes weekly or one larger 80% one works well to keep nitrate in check. Otherwise many owners find it creeps up into the dangerous zone very quickly and makes the fish ill. For those of us with dodgy tap water that isn’t great quality or already has ammonia or nitrates present, the smaller water changes multiple times per week are a better idea. But yeah, 10% is too low, even for many tropicals. In a lightly stocked tank with large surface area, or an algae filled pond, it’s a different story, though the rule of thumb varies a bit there.
  5. Yeah it’s irritating stuff! Tasty fruit, though 😋
  6. Hi there! If you don’t have one already, please get a good test kit so we can figure out what is going on with your water. API’s freshwater master test kit is inexpensive and lasts several years, I highly recommend it. Once you can test your water (before a water change, not right after) we should have a better idea of what is going on. Please fill out the form Koko linked to the very best of your ability. More detail helps us treat much mire efficiently and with less surprises and time wasted
  7. Turning the heater off is not advised, it oftentimes will weaken fancy goldfish, and it slows down their metabolisms. If he was thriving in a warmer tank there was no need to change that. Most fancies seem to do best in the mid seventies for temperature. We can try treating him, but we need good, close up pictures or video of what is going on, plus the form Koko linked filled out as precisely as possible. It would also be helpful to know what medications, if any, you have on hand, and as complete a treatment history of this fish as possible.
  8. You can try the feeding first. Based on what you have indicated none of the symptoms are significant enough right now that I’d assume that’s what is going on.
  9. You can certainly try upping the feeds for a few weeks and seeing how things go. I do want you to keep an eye on your nitrates, though. You want to clean your filter when the edge from 10 up to 20 ppms, and not let them go past. With significantly more food comes more waste, and that will drive your nitrates up much higher. This means servicing your filter and removing the detritus and mulm accumulated will need to happen more often - usually every month, sometimes more.
  10. As for General Cure, I don’t mind it, if you have it on hand. It will probably take three or four boxes of it though, to treat twenty gallons completely every two days for two weeks (or longer, but we start out with two weeks). We do NOT follow the instructions on the box, that dosing tends to leave water quality deteriorating and the meds not dwelling long enough.
  11. Metroplex is one brand of metronidazole, yes. There are others but Seachem is the most commonly available. Okay, so for those foods, the one on the right was the one I was least familiar with. Flakes are hard to feed, they’re not very nutrient dense and degrade quickly. Pellets are better. But for flakes for a fish that size, I’d say two heavy pinches (about a quarter teaspoon) in the morning, and then about fifteen pellets in the evening. How does that compare to how you’re feeding now? If it’s about the same volume I’d be more concerned about a wasting issue with a parasite than if you’re significantly under feeding or he’s having a hard time finding food because of the wen size.
  12. When I first saw the picture I was like EWWWWW, gross birthday food 🥴
  13. So first question, how much are you feeding him in terms of pellet size and number? I’m not very familiar with the food you posted, but we can help you zero in amounts with a picture of some on your hand. His fins look like they’re healing and the black looks to be full scales and not brushed on dustily, which would be what we’d expect if there was injury or damage from ammonia. Parasites too, for the most part. I’m thinking the color shift is actually just a natural one for him - goldfish do not have particularly stable coloration and it can change throughout their life. I am still worried about the red fins and thinness, though. The medication that would address that, given his treatment history, would probably be metronidazole. Metro can be ordered on Amazon or eBay, among other places. We would want to do a two week course of it. You could do it in the main tank but it will take more medication, bigger water changes, and you might see a slight cycle bump. But metro isn’t one known to nuke filters, which is good news. It’s your call on that. My dosing schedule for metro involved complete water changes every two days and a redone of medication as a minimum, for fourteen days total (so seven water changes). You’d want the tank warmed up to 78 degrees or so, as well.
  14. Mikroll I want the lamb so badly! Yuuuuum! Happy birthday @Miss Bad Wolf!!!
  15. Hi there! Generally speaking once the tumors start splitting it’s a good idea to cut them off so the fish doesn’t suffer a secondary infection. If you don’t pay a vet, that involves some clove oil, a scalpel, and some fishy surgery. Is that something you’d like to try? There aren’t really other options that work, and surgical excision can be stressful for the fish and the tumor can grow back. But if it’s been going slowly for three years that’s a good sign any regrown might be similarly slow.
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