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Arctic Mama

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About Arctic Mama

  • Rank
    Level 75

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  • Age
    Old enough to know better!
  • Referred By
    Madame Google, many moons ago...
  • How many Goldfish
    More than I planned thanks to Cincy Ranchu!


  • Location
    Milky Way galaxy

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  1. Hmmm; if the other fish are showing symptoms and the temp has been low it is possible, though unlikely. Treatment is two weeks of salt, furan 2, and kanamycin all together. Constant concentration. The salt inhibits further spread of the columnaris and the two gram negative antibiotics act synergistically to knock it out. You’d want to treat all three completely for two weeks, then possible longer depending on symptoms. No other meds, that’s hard enough on them as is, but it’s pretty much all that works
  2. You may also consider not netting him at all. Just use an empty cottage cheese container or glad ware and scoop him into it with your hand and some of the tank water, then use your hand to place him back once the water has been changed in quarantine, it’s easy and less stressful than netting.
  3. I have experience treating this in my own tanks and with others. Unless this is a new fish or bee livestock has been introduced into the tank in the last two weeks? It’s not columnaris. Also your fish would very likely be dead within the week, as it is sadly very virulent. You’d expect to see visible symptoms in the two newer fish first, it doesn’t spread asymptomatically. But there ARE lots of ectoparasites that can cause excess slime coat, which is most of what I see in your pictures above. Some bacteria can, too.
  4. With those med doses when are your changing the water? It’s easier to control the quantities by going 100% changes every day or every other day and a full med redose. I’d be focusing on on the gram negatives, probably kanaplex and furan 2, along with salt and heat. 60F is way too low for treatment, you’d want to bump it up by a degree every twelve hours or so until you reach mid seventies. With that excess slime coat salt dips may work better than salt in the tank, too. you may also consider five gallon buckets instead of the bowl, it’s a little easier to dose meds for and change out, since two from Home Depot are just a few bucks
  5. It looks okay to me, honestly...? The luster of the scales can change with water conditions, but if it is velvet it is easier to diagnose under very bright light, up close.
  6. Wait, what? Rotating basis? Go ahead and fill out the diagnostic form and then type out the weekly/daily schedule timing for the meds and the duration you’ve already done. I’m confused already 🤷‍♀️ Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  7. What she said. Or you can make a paste with it and rub with sponge, whatever works better for your tank. Be careful though, this works on glass but can scratch acrylic.
  8. I just use a wet paper towel or magic eraser, I hate it when that happens! The only safe cleaner if you need more abrasion is salt, though. Chemicals are just not a good idea
  9. Uh oh! He is either reselling or unethically using pictures from another seller to scam. If the feedback links are good it’s probably the former, but it’s definitely in bad taste. Good on you for doing some research and figuring that out, you saved yourself a bundle! Are you buying from the direct source instead or just waiting?
  10. Water quality first, definitely. She is actually crashing her tank’s cycle every single time she tosses the sponge! That’s why you’re showing ammonia, which doesn’t happen in a mature tank situation (where the beneficial bacteria detoxify and break down the ammonia into nitrate). The nitrates are far too high as well. Squeezing out that sponge is critical but NEVER toss it or rinse it. Just squeeze/knock/hit and dump any gunk from the canister, that’s PLENTY. Now. To get those nitrates down, she needs bigger water changes. Much bigger. 80% weekly, or half the tank twice per week. Either way. You want those nitrates to stay under 20 ppms for optimal fish health, and 5-10 ppms (light orange on the test kit chart) is far better. She’ll need to be testing the water every two days or so right now while her tank cycles again, and any time ammonia crosses the .25 ppms line, she needs to do a big water change. I like to empty it down to the level where the fish is just barely covered, refill it halfway and treat it with the chlorine neutralizer of your choice, and then drain it back down to almost empty AGAIN before refilling it with treated water. These two partial changes back to back get nearly all the ammonia out but don’t require removing the fish, which works if you’re not using salt (the issue in the salt treatment is those wild salinity swings causing stress between refilling and dissolve more salt). If you’re removing the fish into a bucket for water changes it’s easier to do a complete change, but these two partials also do work. This will keep the fish healthy during what is essentially a fish-in cycle, and keep the ammonia and nitrite in controllable levels while the tank cycles. Once there is no ammonia and no nitrite (which you want to really stay on top of, it’s very toxic to the animal) and minimal nitrate, then it is just a matter of weekly maintenance of the water changes keeping that nitrate in the 10-20 ppm range, whatever frequency and size of water change is needed to achieve that. The water quality is the bulk of the issue, poor water quality leads to weakened and sick fish. Sometimes more medication and help is needed to get a fish back to good health, but solid water keeping and filter maintenance of the appropriate kind is really what it takes, long term, to maintain good health in a strong animal. These are the basics of the cycle stuff, fish less and fish-in, for her edification: https://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html Basically any time she is throwing away filter media she is setting herself back to new tank syndrome status in terms of bacterial colony maturity, and that sucks 😂 Best intentions undermining the ultimate goal, it happens.
  11. Can you take a good closeup picture under bright lights, please?
  12. For ponds, I’d say they’re lovely. Not my particular cup of tea, but I think they have good conformation for being younger long bodied. With Hibuna, just remember to not go TOO long. A little broader through the mid body is good. A little deep is better than too sinewy, but it’s hard to tell with younger fish who haven’t yet fully filled out.
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