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Everything posted by Narny105

  1. CT, I believe Tammy is referring to completing the form at the top of the page, which is protocol for everyone to fill out. Please complete as much of it as you can. Blurry pictures are better than none, however a video might be clearer if you are able to take one?
  2. In filterless quarantine you will need a conditioner that neutralises ammonia if you have it present in your tap water. It also provides a safe-guard for any ammonia building up in the tank between water changes. One dose of prime will neutralise up to 1ppm of ammonia, and you'll find it's more cost-effective than most other conditioners. Prime or amquel plus are both good options that will neutralise a certain amount of NH3 As for the Epsom, remember to dissolve it fully in water before adding it to the tank, and do not dose for any longer than 8 days. You can stop using the epsom early if the swelling completely subsides. Since it's such a small amount of Epsom in the water, daily 100% water changes will make it much easier to keep the dose consistent. Since your tank and tap pH are the same, all you need to do is match the temperature of the new water to the tank water. You can just isolate him in a container while doing the water change. Closer pictures of the eye side on would be really helpful too just to see if any other treatment may be needed
  3. Yes, he will need to be quarantined and treated with epsom. 1/4th tsp per 40 litres. You can even buy a cheap food-safe/sterile plastic tub for him as a quarantine tank if that makes it easier. 20-40 litres would be ideal. Since you won't have a filter, you will need to really closely monitor the parameters and be doing daily water changes around 50-80%. Remember to add back the epsom you remove. That eye swelling should start to reduce within a couple days, but keep an eye on it and if you can, and get closer pictures of the eye itself.
  4. You shouldn't have any ammonia present. How long has the tank been running for? A video is definitely going to be more helpful than without
  5. Could you please take a photo? If you're concerned, you can quarantine your gourami in the mean time. He'll most likely need epsom to reduce swelling and may need an antibiotic depending on how the eye looks
  6. The black specs in it are completely normal. I've had more bottles with specs than clear bottles. As for the smell, if you're definitely worried about it can't you take it back to the store and exchange it over? I've never had issues contacting them. I've contacted them via email about sachem gold buffer, prime (the black specs in it), and on matrix filter media and they've responded within a couple days. Sucks that you're having difficulties with them!
  7. That's a shame, but looking forward to seeing plan B!
  8. Sorry, I had it in my head Seiko was a male for some reason For a female betta, the larger abdomen is completely normal. Females tend to have a fuller look about them, not all of them, but it's common. If you could, a video or some more pictures of her would be great! Just to double check because the second picture looks more like a lump.
  9. In the second picture, yes, but is the betta possibly getting the other fish's food as well? 4 pellets all together is actually quite a small amount of food so you should not see any swelling. I feed mine up to 5 pellets twice daily when the water is 26C or higher and have never had this issue.
  10. If you look closely at the fins (look in the first picture) you can see clear growth around the fins.When they've been nipped they don't have this at all, and if they were to get infected you also wouldn't see clear tissue around the fins. So they're definitely healing which is good. As for nipping, it's pretty annoying! If nothing has changed I don't think changing anything now is really going to make a difference. You could try some snails in there for distraction (nerites would be good for the algae!) but that's up to you
  11. yes, he is nipping those fins, but there's plenty of regrowth happening so I don't think there's really an issue with it. Other than keeping the tank nice and clean, you shouldn't have to add any salt to the tank or increase water changes when he does nip. Has anything changed recently?
  12. Clever idea! That would actually be interesting for research purposes though
  13. Hopefully it will pick up so you don't have to rip them all out!
  14. He is looking so much better! The pellets is probably just a fussy eating issue considering he did eat the worms, but definitely give them another go later on. If you're persistent with attempting to feed them he will take to them eventually. He still is a little clamped but not as clamped as he was in the video. If you've got some prazi on hand you can start a few rounds now. One round a week for 2-3 weeks saltless should be plenty. As for the tank upgrade, I went from a 5 gallon to a 15 gallon and I'd never go back from it! The extra space is definitely a benefit to make a wonderful planted environment for them, and give them a lot more room to explore. There's nothing wrong with your current tank, however if you'd like to upgrade to a 10 gallon go for it! The shallower it is the better, so if you can get a 10 gal rectangular tank, that would be ideal for him
  15. If you've got no large pH differences between tap and tank you can increase the goldfish tank to 80% a week. I think that would be more effective at keeping those nitrates down
  16. Shakaho has really great information on bog filters as well as instructions on how she made hers. Hopefully she'll see this thread Here's some links for you, though! http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/100931-mini-bog-filter-for-aquarium-or-container-pond/ http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/107385-container-bog-filter/
  17. Thanks, just wondering about the turtle The turtles available here are very limited and pretty much all of them get to be quite large in size- a 6ft tank wouldn't even be big enough for a full grown one! Yep, nitrates can really creep up with goldfish! Make sure you're also not overfeeding. 0.5-1.0% of their bodyweight daily is plenty for them Tropicals really don't produce much waste at all, with exception to fish like balloon mollies since they are also exceptionally good poop machines. But I wouldn't expect to see much of a nitrate reading in that tank if you keep the water changes up weekly. Good luck
  18. You should replace your test kit once it expires, and you can keep using it until that date. However if you test weekly and have multiple tanks, I doubt you'd need worry about expiration. As for the validity of the tests, liquid drop tests are fairly accurate if you follow the instructions. The only issues you may have with tests not being as accurate is right after a water change when you've just added a large amount of water into the tank. With that being said, you should look at increasing water changes to reduce the nitrate in your goldfish tank, and make water changes more regular and on a routine basis. For all types of fish and aquatic reptiles you need to be doing weekly water changes. Nitrate is the bi-product of nitrite, and is the end of the nitrogen cycle in aquatic environments. Nitrate should be kept below 40ppm, ideally 20ppm, and will not harm your fish if you keep it below 40ppm. However during a water change aim to get it as close to 0ppm as possible (gauge this with your weekly readings to how much water you remove). The reason you have significantly more nitrate in the goldfish tank is due to the fact that you are tightly stocked, and goldfish produce a lot of waste- so yes you are correct. Depending on what type of turtle you have and the size it's currently at, you may eventually experience similar high nitrate issues in that tank as it grows. I'm not sure what type of turtle you have, but generally 40 gallons is not big enough to last their entire lives In a fully cycled tank you should not have any ammonia or nitrite readings, which is good that you're not showing any. The point of the nitrogen cycle is to break down fish waste and debris to ammonia, which is then converted to nitrite, then nitrate. , a , and a video on and about using the API freshwater master test kit. You can also have a look at water quality articles here.
  19. Here's a video of people catching wild betas in Thailand. You can see in the video that they're definitely not puddles. historically keeping them in clay pots doesn't justify that it's ok to do so.
  20. I completely agree that they can live in a bowl with a lot of diligence from the owner as could any fish, but a bowl is definitely no ideal environment for them, at least in my opinion. I completely respect your opinion and experience with this, so thanks for sharing
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