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  1. Ok, so I have a large Calico Oranda that floats after EVERY meal!! I typically feed her an Aquadine blend around 9 at night and sure enough, every morning she is floating upside down at the surface. This doesn't seem to bother her (unless she is startled), but it doesn't look very comfortable. I have determined that the food must be the culprit. I have noticed that as the food disolves, a thin film gathers on the surface and then she sits there and gulps at the surface for hours after feeding. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Or has anyone developed a clever way to keep the fish off of the surface? The obvious answer is to change the food, but I have used this food for years and have been very pleased with the results. The other fish do not seem affected by film at the surface and leave it alone. The Calico is the only one that goes for it. My other question, will this inverted floating have any long term negative effects? Again, the fish doesn't seemed bothered by it and she is usually flipped back over by noon, but just seems cruel and unnatural. Any thoughts or suggestions?? Thanks!
  2. Thanks for the input. I think I will try some TMS in my 15 gallon before going all out on the 46. The stuff isn't cheap! Any thoughts on the drift wood? I have notice a couple of my fish are missing scales on their sides and wonder if it can be from the drift wood?? Had it in there for almost a year, but the scale issue has been recent. Any thoughts on the drift wood's affect on the nitrate issue?
  3. OK, after hours of searching the forums, I have concluded that the general approach to substrate is "all in the eye of the beholder." Some love gravel, some can't live without bare and others die by sand! I have always sported black or natural gravel in my tanks and recently gave-in to a bare bottom set-up for my 46 bow in attempt to control my otherwise out-of-control nitrates. After a month, the nitrates are so-so, but I am already wishing I had my gravel back. The bare bottom is easy to clean, but looks incomplete in my opinion. I am now to the point where I will either put the gravel BACK in the tank, or switch to a thin layer of Tahitian Moon Sand (TMS). The gravel scares me from a choking stand point and bacteria trap, but the maintenance involved with sand turns me off as well, as there seem to be conflicting reports about the ease of TMS clean-up. My topics of discussion: How difficult is a TMS set-up AND is it safe for Goldies of all sizes? How much is enough or too much?? (1/4" or 1/2" or more??) Finally, (unrelated) I have a large chunk of driftwood in the tank that may be the culprit with my nitrate issues. General thoughts on driftwood with Goldies?? Any other comments or suggestions are welcome as well! Thanks!
  4. Thanks for the advice! I will definitely start on the bare bottom project soon. My wife and I are planning on buying a house in the next 4 months, so I hesistate to tear everything down now, only to do it again in 2 to 4 months. I may just remove it slowly and then start fresh with no gravel after the move. I ended up leaving work early yesterday due to illness, so the pictures will have to wait until probably tomorrow, since today is Valentine's Day. I suppose I can spend tonight with my wife... Thanks again for the help! I will keep you posted on the fin.
  5. * Ammonia Level 0 ppm * Nitrite Level 0 ppm * Nitrate level 50 on a good day - 80 to 100 day before WC * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 to 7.6 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) NA - use no additives other than water conditioner Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master Drops * Water temperature? Room temp - 68 to 72 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 46 Gal - 8 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval 405 * How often do you change the water and how much? 25 to 30% Bi-Weekly until a month ago. Closer to 50% now weekly. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 7 days - 60% for Nitrate * How many fish in the tank and their size? 4 Fancy Goldies, 2 Med (3-4 inches) 2 small (1 to 2 inches) Other 2 are small in 15 Gallon * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Jack's Pets Water Conditioner, occasional Jack's Pets Bio Boost * What do you feed your fish and how often? Aquadine Mix Sinking Pellet - 1 to 2 times per day, as much as can be eaten in 2 - 4 minutes. Good stuff, but breaks down quickly. * Any new fish added to the tank? Yes, small Blue Oranda added on Saturday * Any medications added to the tank? Constant salt content of .1 to .3% * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Never medicate main tank other than salt. Always use 10 Gallon quarantine. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Blue has split fin from PS * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? No issue! I really think the gravel is the culprit. There are certain areas that I just can't get to with my siphon, so it doesn't get cleaned as well, or as often as it should. I am weeks away from removing all of the gravel and going bare bottom, in hopes that this will correct the nitrate issues. I have been keeping tanks for nearly 15 years and have never had WC issues. This is the largest tank I have owned and I think I over did the gravel and underestimated the filth. Thanks for the help!
  6. The filter is cycled. My pH is 7.6 give or take a couple of stops, ammonia and nitrites have always been 0, but the nitrate soars upwards of 180 at times. Weekly (rather than bi-weekly) water changes have brought it down to 40 or so. I just need to do another major wc. Has anyone tried a planted HOB filter? I have run across the below article and many like it. Do you see any downsides to this with our goldies?? http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?208931-HOB-Nitrate-Filter
  7. Check out this article. I would also like to try this, as I am having a hard time controlling nitrates. You can also try a search on your favorite search engine and you will find many more posts by this guy. This seems like a great idea and I can't think of any downside??? Does anyone else see any issues with this?? I wouldn't expect any adverse side affects to the fish?? http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?208931-HOB-Nitrate-Filter
  8. Thank you both for the advice. I have always salted with the impression/understanding that the presence of salt will lower stress levels of the fish and that many pathogens can't survive in the presence of salt. Kind of a flu-shot for fish?? Your explanation for resistance makes perfect sense. I am scheduled for a 30% water change tongiht and will not add salt to the new water. Stakos, you say that salt will increase toxins in the water? I have been having a terrible time controlling the nitrate in this bigger tank ever since I set it up almost a year ago. I have placed the blame on the gravel in the bottom of the tank (which I will be removing soon) but do you think the salt could be a factor?? As for pictures, they will have to wait until at least tonight when I am home from work. Sorry! Thank you again for the help!
  9. Also, the split is directly at the tip of the lower caudal. I have read about suturing a tail fin, but there doesn't seem to be enough meat there to hold. Thanks again!
  10. BUSTED!! The little guy is not in quarantine. Here's why... I have been after a quality Blue for YEARS now and every time I find one of my liking, I seem to kill it by over-analyzing. Before I was "in-the-know," I used to just add fish directly to the main tank and would never have a problem. It seems that I cause myself more problems by quarantining than I do by just playing dumb. I have lost 3 blues due to quarantining/acclimating issues over the past 2 years and this time I just decided to go old school. I know I run the risk of jeopardizing my entire tank, but I have never had issues with fish from this particular local store in the past and this particular Blue had been there for over a week. I am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping for the best. I am sure that I have immediately lost the respect of 90% of the people on here, but I do fully support quarantining. I am just trying to save me from myself in this case. I am so desperate for a healthy Blue that I am afraid of doing too much. I appreciate your reply and advice. I typically keep my main tank salted at .1 - .3% at all times, which also seems to be a bit controversial. Will this be adequate? I hesistate to move the little guy into quarantine at this point, as this is his 3rd day in the main tank and he seems to be doing fine. Thanks again and I apologize for not following code!
  11. Good day All, Just a quick question this crisp Ohio morning. I picked up a Blue Oranda from a local pet shop over the weekend that I couldn't resist. He is perhaps one of the best examples of a "true" blue that I have encountered. Most blues that I have seen (in person) are mainly silver with large amounts of bronze and green. This guy's body is almost entirely steel, with a thin bronze line on the side and his fins are a dusty blue/grey color. He is about an inch long with a deep, plump body and has good head growth for his size. My only concern is that his tail fin seems to have been damaged in transit to the store. One side has a minor kink in it and the other side a slightly split. I know the kink will probably not go away, but I hope that it will get "better" as he grows. The split fin is very shallow (maybe 1/8" to 3/16")and reminds me of the tongue of a small snake. The ps employee told me that it will heal, but I have some doubts. So the question is, will the split fin truly "zip" back up and is there anything I can do to help it along?? Thanks for the help!!
  12. Thanks for the quick replies! I knew I wasn't seeing things! My wife had me thinking that I was starting to go crazy!! I usually leave the fish in the tank for routine maintenance, but with such a big water change, it was just easier to remove them entirely. I had a traumatic experience last year while syphoning the gravel that resulted in a black moor loosing BOTH eyes and eventually dying. I have been leary ever since about leaving the fish in the tank when doing extreme maintenance. I appreciate the advice though and will definitely try to leave them in whenever possible.
  13. Let me pick your brains for a minute. I have a medium sized Panda Oranda, that is honestly more blue/purple and white, than black and white. He also has a patch of yellow/gold under the darker colors on one side. The other day, I had him out of the tank and into a 5 gallon bucket while performing a major water change. He was in the bucket for MAYBE an hour while I changed 90% of the water in my 46 bow-front. After letting the filter cycle the new water for about a half hour, I placed the Panda back into the 46 and was shocked to see that most of his color had completely bleeched out! The whites were obviously still white, but the blue/purple had turned to a light greenish color and the gold was completely gone! I was initially very upset with this, but after about 10 minutes, all of his color returned as if nothing had happened! My wife thinks I dreamed all of this up, but I am certain that the color on this fish faded out and then came back. Is it possible that the stress from being in the bucket caused this? Or perhaps a lack of light in the bucket? I have never heard of this happening and can't seem to find anything on the internet about it. Again, there is nothing wrong with the fish, I am just more curious than anything. Also, 3 other Orandas of varying colors (Med. Calico, Sm. Redcap, Sm. Blue) had no signs of color change. I had 2 five gallon buckets with 2 Orandas in each. The buckets were orange, although that probably doesn't matter. HA! Thanks for reading!
  14. Hi All, Just a couple of quick questions. I am currently running a single 36" standard flourescent bulb over my 46 gallon Oranda tank. The bulb is close to the end of its life and I am thinking of retrofitting the housing with an Ecoxotic Stunner LED strip. I used to have a 50/50 compact flourescent over an old tank and loved the color of the lighting and the visual effects that it had on my fish. Everything seemed brighter and cleaner. I am hoping to recreate that effect with the more efficient LEDs. My first question involves the color of the lighting. The Stunner LEDs come in a variety of color combos, most of which are probably useless for a fish-only aquarium. I am looking at the all white (8K) or the white(12K)/blue combo. Which leads me to my next question. I like to keep a thin carpet of algae on the tank sides to help with nitrate reduction. The tank receives *some* indirect sunlight, but i fear about losing the algae with the wrong LED lighting. So finally, the 2 questions. 1.) What is the best lighting color or combo for bringing out colors? 2.) How will LED lighting effect the growth of my algae? Thanks for all fo the help!
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