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Posts posted by tarannosaurus

  1. Just thought I would add another recipe that's confirmed not to cause floating. This one I like even better than the original, and it has done away with Pro-Gold :)

    Alex's No-Float Yummy Agar Gel Recipe, Part II:

    - 8.1 oz low-sodium bagged tuna (3 bags of 2.7 oz each).

    - 2 jars (8 oz) Gerbers baby food. For this recipe, I use 1 jar of peas and 1 jar of green beans.

    - three eggs

    - blend this together until you get a nice purée consistency.

    - 4 Tablespoons of toasted (raw is OK, too) wheat germ

    - 1/2 teaspoon garlic

    - 1/2 teaspoon koi clay

    - 1 multivitamin

    - 1 probiotic packet

    - crush pellets etc. to a powder, add a small amount of water, and mix together. Set aside.

    - in a pot with lid, add 3 tablespoons of agar to 2 cups distilled spring/distilled water and turn heat on high

    - when the water starts to boil, turn down heat to medium, add puree, wheat germ, koi clay, garlic and stir slowly but well. If you have a whisk, use that.

    - cover with lid, turn heat on high again, and let mixture come to a boil

    - once boiling, occasionally lift lid to stir mixture, and let boil for about 2 minutes.

    - remove from heat

    - in about 5-10 minutes, when mixture has not yet congealed and is warm but touchable, add probiotic/vitamin mixture and stir slowly but well. I actually use a meat thermometer to check on the temp of the mix prior to adding this. The temp should be below 110F, so that your vitamins don't get degraded and the probiotics don't get killed.

    Pour into pan, let set at room temp first and then transfer to fridge for a few hours. Cut into 1 inch cubes, and freeze. Done :)

    Why haven't I tried this? I can't wait to see if this will help my floaty guy. :)

    How often can I feed the gel food? Sorry if I missed that somewhere.

  2. Okay. I am about to do a water change, but I wanted to get the GH and KH levels of my aquarium before I did and I am having a hard time reading results. KH turned yellow on the first drop and GH turned green on the third drop. This is the API test kit.

    As per the directions,


    your kH is 17.9 ppm, while your gH is approximately 53.7ppm. The gH is OK, although it really should be somewhere in the 100-150ppm. Your kH is extremely low, and this can create problems for your cycle, your pH stability, and I believe it will also affect the health of your fish. kH too should be somewhere in the vicinity of 100-150ppm.

    There are several ways of correcting the kH, including the use of commercial buffers, crushed coral, and baking soda. The easiest (also read cheapest lol) is baking soda, although the inconvenience here is that you have to add more with each WC.

    Likewise, you can also boost gH with products from plant companies, or from Seachem and other places. Your gH technically falls into the range where it should be acceptable, although it is just my own personal hunch that having a gH from 100-150ppm is actually much better/healthier for goldfish.

    Oooh okay thank you. I see that chart now. And I see the link to baking soda in your signature. I'll follow through with that.

    I just checked the GH and KH for my tap and they are both 17.9. So I should be adding baking soda according to that number, right? Thanks for your patience.

  3. No, you are all set.

    I would go ahead, and do one round and go from there. :)

    Okay, so you don't want me to use anything other than prazi right? And I'm still not using salt, right?

    Another thing, I have a telescope goldfish that sucks air all day and then floats at night. This happens every single day and I've been trying to get him to stop. Recently my oranda has been pecking at him at night when he's floating. She only messes with him when he's vulnerable like that. Today my telescope has a little bloody spot next to one of his pelvic fins; I assume it's from the pecking.

  4. It is most definitely not your doing, and you already brought him back from the brink of death more than once. I am just sorry that it wasn't meant to be. :(

    I do think that it's a very good idea to prazi the main tank. When was the last time they were treated? Before you prazi, though, I would like for you to have some broad spectrum waterborne antibiotic like kanamycin, erythromycin, or even furan-2 on hand. I know that you have Metro-Meds and Medi-Gold, and that is great. :)

    They were treated about four months ago. Yes, I have all of those medications except for kanamycin and furan-2. You want me to get both of those before anything?

  5. There have been two incidents where the goldfish would bleed out during a salt dip. I know that this is not what you want to hear, but I think that this is actually a big indication that his gills have really badly infected, and while it did appear as though he was getting better, I think he would have declined again, as soon as the meds are stopped, or even during.

    I think the reason the fish bled was due to the salt making the flukes release their holds within the gills, and with a big infestation, I don't know that there was anyway we could have stopped it. :(

    This is actually somewhat of a relief for me to hear. I wanted to understand what happened to him. What you said makes sense. I was certain all this time that I was the one responsible for this, but maybe it was inevitable.

    My priority now is making sure the other goldfish are safe. Do you think the others could be carrying gill flukes? Would a prazi treatment in the main tank be effective for this?

  6. I read through the entire thread and wanted to tell you that you are a wonderful fish mommy for working so hard to get your fish better. :rip:

    This fish seemed to be having cascading health issues for a while now, since he was getting better Alex was confident that he could handle a full dip. Unfortunately we don't always know what's going on inside a fish without detailed microscope investigations.

    I think when there are cascading issues like these fish have been having the water they live and breathe need to be looked at carefully. When you use RO water you need to be adding minerals back into the water. Were you doing that? I see there were several mentions of getting a kit to test your gh/kh and using baking soda to keep your pH stable. I think this is still a very important step. Were you able to do that at any point?

    I am not trying to sound accusatory. We get the water we get and we have to work with what we got. Some people only have to dechlor innate their water and do not have to worry about any of the extra stuff and others have to go to great lengths to get the right water for their fish to thrive in.

    It seems even though this fish was having a good day on the outside, that may not have been the case on the inside. I am so sorry for your loss, I've also lost a fish that was a strong fighter, he fooled me into thinking he could always hold on no matter what. I was saddened when he passed as you are now. :hug

    Thank you for your comments. Especially about being a good fish mommy. :)

    I had to buy a reverse osmosis system because the nitrates in my tap are something astronomical like 60 ppm. Even after RO, a small level of nitrates remains. I complained to the water company about it, and they told me that I am wrong. I filled my aquarium with live plants to help with this issue. I have done my best to make it right.

    I did purchase baking soda and a gh/kh test kit. Monster was already in QT at this point, and I didn't want to stress him even more by changing the pH in his hospital tank. That was the only reason I didn't do anything with the baking soda yet. I didn't want him to deal with another major change while he was still recovering.

    I did some research this morning, and could not find anything about the reaction he had to the salt dip. This makes me believe it was some other pre-existing condition too.

  7. So, here's the plan that I would like to recommend, based on your feedback.

    - Do nothing until you've moved him back to the main tank, which should be 1 day after you stop the Metro-Meds.

    - Do a salt dip tomorrow or the next day while he is still in QT, and with Metro-Meds.

    - Then, on the day that you decide to move him back to the main tank. Do a huge WC, add prazi. Give him another salt dip, and add him back to the main tank.

    - One week later, repeat the process of WC, and prazi treatment, and salt dip. Other fish can be dipped as well, if you like.

    - Do two more weekly rounds of prazi (total of four), but the last two do not require salt dips.

    - Prazi is plants friendly, so you need do nothing. :)


    1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (30 grams/Liter, or 113.7g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.

    2. prepare a holding tank. This is a tank that is pH/temp matched with the main tank, and has been de-chlorinated. This can be a 5 gallon tub, with bubblestone, or something bigger.

    3. make sure you have some sort of timer

    4. gently lift the fish out of the tank, and place into temp/pH matched salt solution.

    5. start timer.

    6. if the fish stays continues to stay upright, or tilts over but can get back up, keep him/her in the salt solution for exactly 5 minutes.

    7. remove fish from the salt, and place in holding tank. The reason why we do this is to: 1) give the fish a place to recover by him/herself, and 2)to let the fish purge out ammonia/wastes in a place that is not the main tank.

    8. if the fish starts to lose balance and cannot get back before the minutes, remove him/her and place in holding tank, as described in #6.

    9. after 1-2 hours, the fish can be moved back to the main tank. He/She might still be disoriented, but should be fine.

    Don't tell me... You meant THREE and not THIRTY.

  8. I'm just stepping in to say, COME ON MONSTER and WOW to the mods. I'm always so impressed when I read these threads. I really hope I'll never be on the "HELP MY FISH" end of one of these threads, but OMG I'm so grateful that you guys are here, so smart, and so ready to help just in case I am! :)

    It really looked like we were going to lose him there. But he pulled through and I'm very grateful for the helpful input on here and the Metro-Meds too. Thank you.

  9. I think that's a great idea. :)

    I would like to propose that you do a 3% salt dip right before the round of no salt prazi. This way, you can help that fin along with the dip, as well as strip the slime coat for more effective prazi treatment.

    A salt dip for who? Also, please provide detailed instructions on how to do that as I have never done a salt dip before.

    Could you also tell me or link me a prazi schedule with no salt? I have a lot of live plants and I don't want to harm them.

  10. Okay. The spot on her side looks much better but that black streak on her fin still looks pretty bad. Her behavior is back to normal.

    Here is a video update of Monster:


    I think I will do a Prazi treatment for the main tank once he goes back. To me, it looks like he's flashing a little bit. It's been a few months since the last treatment anyway. What do you think?

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