Jump to content

ypdmd

Regular Member
  • Posts

    205
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ypdmd

  1. Test Results for the Following:

    • * Ammonia Level 0
    • * Nitrite Level 0
    • * Nitrate level 0+mg/L
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.2
      Other Required Info:
    • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? api drops
    • * Water temperature? 76
    • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 35, running 3 months
    • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? AC70
    • * How often do you change the water and how much? 50% once a week

    • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 6 days ago 80%
    • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 2 inch fancies
    • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime
    • * What do you feed your fish and how often? teramin or tetrafin flakes 2x daily
    • * Any new fish added to the tank? yest, the 3 fancies
    • * Any medications added to the tank? coppersafe, 2 week ago, 2 80% a 50% and another 80% water changes since.
    • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. see above
    • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? white patches that are eating though the fins of the telescope, seems to be clearing now
    • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? no, possible flashing and starting. Fish eating fine

    ODed 10x on the prime last time I used it (Sat. Night) because I was unused to the ration, followed with an immediate 80% water change.

  2. When I got home today, my little fantail was in the filter. Just got him off - not c shaped, but beat up where the filter tore into him. Floating, not swimming. He ate fine this morning - a little floaty the past 24 hours but nothing crazy - he was in control.

    Params this morning -

    pH - 7.6

    ammonia - 0

    nitrite - 0

    nitrate - barely registers, close to 0

    last water chage - 2 days ago.

    He is just floating now in a corner, breathing, but not swimming.

    Any chance of survival?

  3. ok.. seeing as things are stable atm, continue in working on the move of the commons and ensure that all is well. we won't start treating until they're all gone from the fancy's tank.

    All the commons have been moved out.

    pH - 7.6

    ammonia - 0

    nitrite - 0

    nitrate - barely registers, close to 0

    last water chage - 2 days ago.

    Also including some updated pics of the fin. Spots on the tail and anal fins seem to be gone.

    As you can see, he is not quite egg shaped - what is he?

    IMG_9670%255B1%255D.JPG

    IMG_9675%255B1%255D.JPG

    IMG_9681%255B1%255D.JPG

  4. What is a safe rate to transfer them over. - Clearly the tank is still cycling and I have to watch for nitrites. Add a fish and check? How long in between? How high can I let the nitrites go?

    And how do I deal with the higher levels - water changes or chemicals?

  5. I got the new tank running yesterday am, tansfered bio media from the old tank and let it run. I assumed the media would transfer the bacteria.

    Last night I moved one common to the new tank. This morning nitrite on the new tank was 1 mg/L, ammonia was 0. Tonight when I got home nitrite was down to .5 mg/L.

    I moved another common over. Now 2 commons in the cycling tank and still 3 fancies, a common and 3 comets in the old tank.

    The params on the old tank were good before an 80% water change 2 days ago.

  6. Ok, just tested the chemistry -

    params10-25-11.jpg


      Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level 0
    • * Nitrite Level 0
    • * Nitrate level 5mg/L
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.2
      Other Required Info:
    • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? api drops
    • * Water temperature? 76
    • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 35, running 3 months
    • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? AC70
    • * How often do you change the water and how much? more often now :clapping:

    • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 6 days ago 80%
    • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 6 2 inch commons and comets, 3 2 inch fancies
    • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? topfin water conditioner
    • * What do you feed your fish and how often? teramin or tetrafin flakes 2x daily
    • * Any new fish added to the tank? yest, the 3 fancies
    • * Any medications added to the tank? coppersafe, 1 week ago, 2 water 80% water changes since.
    • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. see above
    • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? white patches that are eating though the fins of the telescope
    • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? no, fish are very active and eat well

    Thanks again.

  7. You can baffle the output, by cutting the ends off a plastic soda bottle and slitting the middle so you now have a curl of plastic. Tape one end to the filter cover, letting the other end curl under the outflow lip.

    Hard to tell what the white spots are. Please post the info again. Need all params not just ammonia.


    I will try that baffle.

    Will retest tonight - I would be shocked if they weren't perfect after 2 80% changes.

  8. what measures have you now taken to rectify the overstocking situation given that it's been 6 days since you initially posted? some great ideas were shared with you by other members re either splitting them into two tanks/tubs or rehoming a few. 30 gallons is really only enough space for two young to medium sized fancy goldfish and you have 10 goldfish in there. are the feeders single tails?

    I understand that I am overstocked - The tank is a 35 hex, and I will be moving the 6 commons (one did not survive the 80% water change, first loss in 2 years) into another tank - (they are single tails). While I thank everyone for their concerns about the crowding issue, this is not the source of the problem.

    the tank has been established for 3 months i notice that you missed answering how often you change the water (please post what your maintenance routine for the 30 gallon is)

    The water was not changed with any frequency, and certainly not 50% as has been recommended. My last change was 80% on the 19th and I am doing another 80% tonight. Again, my tested levels are pretty good right now (will have to get a nitrite and nitrate test I guess), and the fish came home with the disease. My existing fish have not sign of disease, nor do the fantail and oranda.

    i take it the undergravel filter is gone now? in order to create space, you should look at removing the gravel also. all it does is trap nasty bacteria from fish waste and uneaten food. when you do a water change, do you siphon the gravel also?

    It was recommeded above that I remove the gravel slowly, over time. And isn't that "nasty bacteria" needed for the cycle?

    now.. you are maninaining a temperature of 78F in the tank. that's great, fancy goldfish like warmer temps. but what about aeration and surface agitation? do you have airwands or stone discs installed in there? at 78F it's pretty warm and the air in the water dissolves pretty quickly. you need to replace the air that the heat is removing. in order to accomplish this, you need either bubble wands or stone discs positioned where the fish will most likely benefit from them.

    I had 2 airstones as part of my UG filter, which I have disconnected. My new AC70 certainly provides enough aeration and surface agitation. The water gets pretty churned up from the inflow.

    i believe that the problems with your fish is mostly coming from the water quality (even though you mention that the fish are new, i get this, but pristine water would have prevented this or made it better already).

    I really don't get this. Every old fish is disease free. The new fish came home with a lesion on it's fin, and somehow this was caused by the water quality in my tank?!

    And after 2 80% water changes, the numbers in any tank should be good (unless you kill the cycle)

    i believe that you were not given correct information from the LFS and you have unintentionally taken a few bad steps as we all did. don't feel bad, we're here to help you correct your set up so that your fish can recover and thrive :)

    Thanks - I am trying, but I feel like a patient being wheeled into the ER with a heart attack, and the first doctor he sees is a nutritionist asking about his daily saturated fat intake.

    i also believe that daily water changes of 80% will assist in these problems going, but if you don't take action to give your fish the room they require, everything will keep returning.

    I understand they need more room, and I will try to do that, but I think the crowding issue is overstated. My fish have live disease free for a long time in their "horribly overcrowded" 29 gallon tank.

    here is a pic i saw from your initial post and i ask, do you have a live frog in there? i see a reflection and am not sure if it's a live frog or ornament, but it definately looks like it's in the tank:

    No. What you see are some objects on the desk outside the tank.

    Thanks for the reply. I apologize if I seem a little impatient.

  9. Awesome!! Keep us posted, and we are here to help. Oh, and we love pictures. *hint* :)

    Update: White spots on the fantail seem to be gone, whatever was on the telescope is spreading.

    As you can see in the photos, the upper lesion on the dorsal fin goes right through the fin, and there is now a new one lower down.

    There are also 2 white spots on the left tail fin and matching spots on the anal fins (as you can see in the bottom image)

    IMG_1493notes.jpg

    IMG_1505notes.jpg

    IMG_1512.JPG

    IMG_1509.JPG

  10. Any suggestions as to what the diseases are / were? That's kind of why I posted in the first place. The pet shop lady got in trouble with her boss when she told him the tank had ick. He said he didn't see any, and that something must have happened to my fish on the way home.

  11. Awesome!! Keep us posted, and we are here to help. Oh, and we love pictures. *hint* :)

    I seem to have a problem getting good shots again.

    Looks like the tail spots are gone, but the dorsal fuzz is still there.

    My ammonia is now 0.

    The AC 70 is in and is blowing my fish away. Am I better off putting it on a lower setting or going back down to the 50?

  12. 2 year old feeders (comets or commons actually) should be 8-12 inches long. :) If kept in large enough tank. Sadly, yours are now stunted.

    Now that they are stunted, is there anything to be done or are they always going to be like that? If that is the way they are going to be, I don't need to give them 20 gal. per fish, right?

  13. That looks like some water mold or fungus. You mean the white on the fin right? one of my fish gets it when he keeps his top fin out of the water too much. I think salt will solve that. As for the last picture, he just has a funky fin growth :) Nothing to worry about there.

    The last 2 pics show the same spot on the same fish.

    In the first two I was referring to the white spots on the tails

  14. I posted to this forum because I was looking for advice, and I certainly appreciate your feedback. I am surprised that I can only have 2 fish in a 30 gallon tank. The 7 feeders have lived in a 29 for about 2 years with no losses. (filtered with an old whisper 2 + AC20 all foam) I had no gravel and the water was crystal clear.

    I guess I will set up the old tank and split the fish up.

    The gravel is now only deep enough to cover the plate. If the UG is not effective I can try to remove it. (going to be a mess)

    I usually dechlorinate by leaving the water stand, but I have used chemicals in the past.

    BTW, any idea what is on the fin of that fish? Why should I get the coppersafe out?

    • * Water temperature?

    Room temp - just added heater to 78

    • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

    30 Gal hex running 3 months

    • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

    Aquaclear 50 + undergravel

    • * How often do you change the water and how much?

    not often

    • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
      N/A

    • * How many fish in the tank and their size?

    7 feeders 1.5 to 2 inches long and three 2 inch fancy goldfish

    • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?

    Added coppersafe today

    • * What do you feed your fish and how often?

    Tetra flakes 2x daily

    • * Any new fish added to the tank?

    3 fancy goldfish

    • * Any medications added to the tank?

    added coppersafe




    I will try to get chemistry info tonight.

×
×
  • Create New...