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Everything posted by Lucerne

  1. I dont think its sensitivity so much, but many LFS and mainline stockists keep their tanks religiously algae free and so nerites you buy that have been "in stock" for a while may already be in the process of starving and perhaps already too far along to save. The same can be said of most inverts really - even in good LFSs I have seen countless dead snails or sickly bamboo shrimp. My advice would be if buying online use a stockist recommended by other nerite owners, and if buying in store try to find out what days they get new livestock deliveries and buy them on the day of arrival.
  2. I think this would only work if you had some stem or floating plants - Rhizomes and Crown forming plants dont generally outcompete very well because of their slow growing or root feeding natures. IMO anyway. I have had tanks with T5 & bursting with swords/anubias and still got algae Though good stem plant growth can outcompete algae if your conditions are right - you still end up grooming your plants a bit though.
  3. Sometimes I wish I was in the states lol. Whoever gets these will be lucky
  4. You could put an airstone or filter on the QT if you are able to and im sure itd be great, but I dont think its essential. What would be a good idea is to cover the tub as nerites are tidal and sometimes can leave water if theres no algae to eat (and there wouldnt be in the qt) and you wouldnt want to lose them like that! If you look on Sakura's youtube she did a vid about QTing nerites: To be honest I would rather leave it to somebody like Tithra/Shawnee to answer about the horned being eaten as I believe they have both large goldfish and horned nerites and can make a real life comparison of the snail-to-mouth ratio. I know alot of people here keep Zebra Nerites with Goldies no problem and Horned are only slightly smaller and not really an edible shape
  5. Yeah Otos are great but can be finicky like that. I usually find if they survive the first fews days they will be fine for years, though. I think its just a matter of aclimitising them very gradually to your tank - but hey theyre not for everyone! I actually had a very bad experience combining a bristle and corys, the BN got hyper aggressive and hounded them constantly til I rehomed it. My housemate had the same problem too. I know others have kept them together without issue but I cant recommend it myself. Assassins would definately kill nerites, I rehoused my nerites in favor of Assassins too as I like how they kill pest snails but also how they turn over the substrate by burrowing constantly. I think if you dose with CO2 and ferts and regularly clean youll be okay anyway.
  6. HornedNerites are better for plant leaves as other nerites tend to be too heavy to climb finer leaves. You could always get a combination like one Horned and one Tracked or Zebra. You should QT them for about a week in a food safe tub and do 100% WCs once or twice a day (and feed them algae wafers while in there). Snails dont share diseases with fish but they can carry infected water in their shell resevoirs - giving them a week of waterchanges will allow them to swap out any water they originally bring with them in their shells. You would have to feed and cater for the snails once in the tank but I find this much easier than scrubbing leaves. You may end up still cleaning the glass though. A fully grown horned nerite would be too large to fit in a GFs mouth I believe - IDK what other members think.
  7. I think that community sounds good - youd have focal points with the gourami, movement with the neons and then bottom interest with the corys! If it were me id maybe use the extra gallons on making it up to 9 tetras and then get a couple of otos/horned nerites to eat the algae off your decor and save you scrubbing it - but that might just be me haha xD
  8. In my experience even without any tank lighting at all diatoms can still appear. It can be because of silicates in the water apparently. What I do know is that it eventually just stops growing back but the time that takes varies. Horned Nerites and Amano Shrimp will eat it off plant leaves but youd still have to do the occasional wiping. Like Hidr said its kind of a standard thing with slow growing plants. In my trop tank I have shrimp and Otos which eat the brown diatom, but every month or two I have to wipes off bits they miss from my ferns/anubias. I think you can eleminate it through use of CO2 and ferts but im not sure exactly what dosages youd need.
  9. This is probably the main problem with buying second hand tanks - purely because as other members have said people selling them often dont know what the true size is, and like GSR pointed out they hold less than manufacturers market them as anyway. I would think that is still a good for your 3 fish though ^-^ When I saw the title of this thread I laughed out loud because I have a dirty mind haha.
  10. Yep thats correct about numbers - if you can fit 6 even better. Id say its hit and miss when mixing them - some school together some dont, In my experience ones with similar marking will have more chance of mixed schooling (i.e. my polystictus and threelines school together and are both spotted, but dont join in with the skunks who are striped). Id recommend getting at least 4 of the same type, then if you wanted to mix you could get four of another variety later.
  11. Theyre are all different corys yes- but their dietary requirements are all really the same. They are bottom feeding omnivores. Emeralds get a bit bigger so they will eat higher volume but its the same foodstuffs youd feed to all corys
  12. Atm I have 8 Skunk Corys which are mostly 5cm except one male thats a bit smaller. This is pretty much full length for skunks and theyre pretty chunky now too. Ive had this group about 12 months id say and they reached full length after about 8/9months - though a few are still "filling out". I have kept Pepper and Sterbas corys on that diet before too and never had a problem with it - I did have a batch of 3-Line corys that were always sickly but I think that was breeding not diet. My housemate keeps C.habrosus and Green/Gold laser corys atm and feeds them this mix too edit: Hikari do decent tropical granules
  13. I think what youre feeding them now will be fine for a while, but maybe when you get chance pick up some sinking granules/wafers to replace the flake element. Either a bottom feeder or community tropical formula should be fine - corys are not overly picky. Id keep feeding bloodworm too. I dunno about SGreen as Ive never had it but I imagine itd be fine for them. I give mine veggies every now and then and they love it.
  14. I see alot of people keep cardinals and other tetras with discus. Sterbas corys are also good tankmates as unlike other corys they actually like higher temp water like discus. They are very pretty too!
  15. I just feed my Corys a mix of sinking granules, algae wafers and frozen bloodworms and theyre all pretty healthy
  16. I would expect large carnivorous fish to produce more waste - like catfish, lungfish or bichirs
  17. Java moss is slow growing, but not as slow as the like of Java fern or Anubias. It will cover whatever its growing on and also branch outwards from the structure. I have to trim back my established moss about once a month to keep it how I want.
  18. Very nice Betta - he looks exactly like my last betta ^-^ I love the name, too!
  19. Everyone has given good advice - a little at each WC til its all gone is the best bet. I just want to echo what Shawnee has said really - If you want a substrate sand is very good. I have used both gravel and sand, and I would never go back to gravel. Sand is so much easier to clean as most of the junk stays on the top so you can just siphon it off at WCs. If I was trying to keep an unplanted tank pristine id use just enough sand to cover the bottom, but currently I have a planted tank so my sand is deeper - but its still way, way cleaner than gravel ever was!! Sand is also more inert than gravel.
  20. Hmm - I didnt immediately think velvet, just because I cant see that this is spread across the whole body or the usual colouration of velvet - but that might well be because im viewing the picture on a smartphone so maybe I cant make it all out. If you guys think it is velvet then id treat for it and follow Alex's advice and do some preventative treatment on anything that might have been cross contaminated. The treatment I mentioned earlier is effective against velvet and is copper based, so if you can get an equivalent treatment I can attest to how effective copper can be at treating velvet. Copper can be dangerous if overdosed but if you are careful its fine. As I mentioned I have used a copper based med for all my bettas - I think they are quite resilient to it, just be sure that you dont exceed the dosages.
  21. Ah right, I understand the situation better now - and that is a bit of a difficult one! I know its a bit awkward but is there some way you could make up a mock-tank for her that is just a little bigger, but still small enough for 100% WCs? like a food tub that just gives her more space to swim and that you could put some sort of plant cover in? My main reason for thinking this is that you would be improving her surrounding but also giving yourself more water to dilute if you started to use melafix, as I think itd be hard to create a low-dose situation in a cup - does that make sense? I think you are doing a good job and other than that I cant think of what else to suggest. I hope she improves :[
  22. If you get a 60 litre you could actually have a small tropical community setup, this could include a Betta and some carefully picked tankmates (we have kept Corys successfully with our Bettas, as well as Otos and shrimp (shrimp success depends on a bettas attitude though lol). Or you could maybe keep dwarf gourami if bettas arent your thing - you would have a reasonable amount of choice for what to keep in a tropical 60litre. If you want to keep your goldies and your parents are worried about the cost/management of a larger tank then tell them shopping around on Ebay/Gumtree/Preloved can turn up some great deals on used tanks - often you can get two or three times larger tanks for the same cost as a new 60litre would be! and used tanks often come with filters and other equipment too. If you request the tank be filled when you pick it up this lets you know it is watertight and as long as you check it all over thoroughly before you take it home it is no more likely to leak than a brand new tank (infact the only tank I ever had leak was a brand new tank - and it was only 20litres - small tanks often have less reliable sealant IMO!). (With any new setup of any size you should monitor it extra carefully for any leaks/imbalances for the first few weeks so you can act quickly in case of any issues). If your parents dont realise the need for larger tanks you could always try showing them this site and the explanations about stocking guidelines and experience of knowledgeable goldfish keepers. I am sure they would not want your fish to suffer and once they realise the health implications of too-small tanks then perhaps they would change their mind. I hope something nice works out for you eitherway ^^
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