tithra's post in coopersafe for velvet was marked as the answer
I can only agree with what others have said, it looks like a bad case of ich
Salt is going to be your best friend. Please follow Helen's advice. You'll want to raise salt levels to .3% - this is 3 tsp per gallon. Do daily water changes (or as frequently as you are able) and replace the salt you took out. So if you do a 50% water change, replace 50% of the salt etc.
Please let us know if you have any questions regarding this treatment plan or how to carry out any part of it I hope your fish will pull through!
tithra's post in Large lump on Picassos tail was marked as the answer
The virus is mildly transmissible, primarily if the area ruptures or 'skin' cells in the area slough off, so there is a chance that the new fish May catch it if it is lymphocystis and you put them together. Only real way to prevent transmission is to keep them in separate tanks and prevent cross contamination (ie separate water changers)
Some fish can carry the virus without being symptomatic. Symptoms may be brought about in these cases by environmental stressors, and can occasionally go away on their own - keeping water conditions pristine and environmental stressors to a minimum seems to help in some cases.
tithra's post in Shopping list O problems. white spots and wen color change was marked as the answer
The white on the wen of the darker fish looks like normal wen growth. You'll see white fuzzy spots develop occasionally. What you want to be concerned about are redness, swollen looking spots or craters/holes developing in the wen.
Second problem looks like a typical color change she/he will likely end up being white
Third, brown algae is very typical in new set ups. From your pics it doesn't look like you are having a significant issue with it. Keep wiping it down and give it some time to settle. Keep your lighting to reasonable hours 6-8 hrs a day at most, since you don't have live plants you can just turn lights on when you want to enjoy the tank
What kind of lighting are you using?
I would also suggest starting some larger water changes. I'd suggest around 80% weekly. With 4 fish in a 60 gallon you're fully stocked, so your water changes should be pretty big in order to keep nitrates low.
Regarding your cycle, it looks like you're pretty close. Is your ammonia rising higher than .25 ever?
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tithra's post in Treating Ich was marked as the answer
It's optimal to have a separate set of equipment for QT tanks and main tanks.
Ich is a pretty hardy pathogen. Without looking it up I can't remember exactly how long the cysts can survive out of water, but a python rarely gets fully dry in my experience between water changes and even a bit of condensation may be enough for one of those nasty pathogens to survive. I personally would not be sharing any equipment between your main tank and the QT. Ich in the cystic stage are even resistant to bleach which is why its always best to QT new plants in addition to bleaching them... the bleach may not get rid of everything.
I would pick up a cheapy siphon and use that and a designated bucket for changing QT water. When you are done with QT all the equipment can be sterilized.
Better safe than sorry. It would be a real bummer to spread ich around, worth the extra precaution IMO
tithra's post in Probably a derp question, but... was marked as the answer
It's really just the angle that you are looking at the glass at that makes it look like a mirror (maybe there is more to it, but it seems like this is all it is). You won't be able to see the stand (it will look like a mirror) unless you stand over the tank and look down. No need to paint the bottom or anything. It will look mirrored. (although painting the bottom black can look nice on a barebottom too)
tithra's post in Fish reaction to Prazi? was marked as the answer
Generally a poor reaction to prazi (increased bottom sitting, clamped fins etc.) is suggestive that there is a heavy fluke infestation (particularly in the gills, this reaction isn't necessarily seen if flukes are primarily on the body). So, while no reaction does not mean there are no flukes, it is a pretty good indicator that the load is relatively light and/or located mostly on the body instead of gills.