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tithra

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Everything posted by tithra

  1. Wow. So I have to wait 4-5 weeks in between every new fish? If you buy more than one fish from the same place you can QT them together (if you have a large enough QT).
  2. In the beginning you can add more ammonia when it begins to drop. For example if it dropped to 2 ppm in a couple days I would add a little more to bring it back up to 4. When you are further along in the process you can wait for it to drop to 0, but right now you want a steady amount of ammonia
  3. It all depends on the tank some will cycle in a month, others can take 3. There are a lot of factors at play in each individual system
  4. Definitely do a fishless cycle. I know it can be a long wait however it is so much easier on both you and your fish. During the cycling process toxins like ammonia and nitrite build up in your tank. These toxins can damage your fish's, burn their body, make their blood inefficient at carry oxygen, and even kill them. So, when you cycle with a fish in the tank they are exposed to all this stuff which is incredibly stressful for them, and the only way to keep the water safe is lots and lots of water changes (think an 80% change daily). This is time consuming and stressful for you! With a fishless cycle you don't have to worry about your fish getting sick, toxins building up or daily water changes!
  5. yes you can QT your fish in the 29 gallon without hurting the plants or cycle if you are just using salt and prazi. I would avoid using the 'rid all' and would honestly see if you can return it and get your money back. Broad spectrum products like this are usually not the best choice and can often do more harm than good to both your fish and your cycle. For prazi, you'll want to salt the tank to .1% (1 tsp per gallon) and do 4-6 rounds of prazi, keeping salt at .1% for the duration of treatment. Prazi schedule is: Day 1: add prazi/salt Day 4: big water change (remember to add back in salt you took out) Day 5: big water change, add prazi Day 9: big water change Day 10: water change, add prazi Etc. etc. until you have added prazi 4-6x
  6. what type of filter do you have? How far from the bottom is it?
  7. When you bring your fish home float it in the tank water to match the temp of the LFS water to the tank water for 15-30 min (don't open the bag until you're done floating it). Then you can go ahead and scoop the fish out of the bag with your hand and place him in the tank (try not to dump the bag water into your tank). Don't feed your new fish for 24 hours. And as Karen said, it's recommended to treat new fish with salt + prazi during QT.
  8. Yes, I agree with koko, lets get your salt up to .2% until you get the prazi. .1% = 1 tsp per gallon, go ahead and raise it to .1% tonight and 12 hours later raise it up to .2%. Remember to replace the amount of salt you take out at each water change. As koko said, salt will not affect your Ph. It is likely that you have soft water and will need crushed coral or a buffer to keep it stable. It is a significant concern because a falling Ph can be stressful if not potentially fatal for goldfish. It is something you will want to address asap. If you can get your kh tested that will give us more info on what the best route to take would be for your tank
  9. I just want to clarify that cory cats are not goldfish compatible (they were mentioned a couple times in this thread and I just don't want anyone getting the wrong idea. They are fine for a tropical tank, but not for goldies )
  10. glad to see things are getting better
  11. Do the white spots look raised? The fact that it has taken at least a month for another spot to appear makes me think that this is not ich. The flashing (rubbing) behavior, gasping, and fin tears though are all consistent with flukes. Can you get your hands on some prazipro? If your local stores don't carry prazi pro you can order it on amazon http://www.amazon.com/PraziPro-oz-treats-480-Gallon/dp/B0006JLPC2 I also notice your Ph appears to be dropping from tap to tank. Would it be possible for you to get a kh test so we can determine what the buffering capacity of your water is? (You may also be able to get this tested for free at your local pet store if you bring in a water sample)
  12. Yes! I second this. Two smaller heaters is better than one large heater because you can get more even heating and if one stops working you still have one maintaining some level of heat and if one malfunctions (hopefully this never happens) there is less chance of it cooking your fish. I also love the aqueon pro heaters. After trying a few different ones they are by far my favorite, several of us here use them
  13. In addition to getting the build up off with vinegar I would also sterilize everything with a bleach solution prior to using it in the tank (1 part bleach to 19 parts water)
  14. As Shawn said you'll want to slowly remove it over the next few weeks. Also remember to test your water regularly during this time just in case you do experience a cycle bump.
  15. I actually just got 5 horned nerites from aquabid today! I was surprised just how teeny tiny they are compared to apple snails. I'm excited to see how they do. You might check aquabid in addition to ebay, there are a couple different kinds up right now, but not zebra striped ones. You may just have to keep an eye out if you want that kind specifically
  16. No room for a waitlist unfortunately and hypothetically speaking if I did have room, I don't think I could wait
  17. funny to see this since my tank looks nothin like this anymore. But the background plants from left to right are crypt retrospiralis, anacharis, and jungle Val. All great easy fast growing plants
  18. This may have gotten missed, what is your tap ph? With a tank ph of 6.8 you may need to use a buffer or crushed coral.
  19. I'm wary of driftwood as well, and am not a big fan simply because of the potential risk it poses. I took mine out of the tank after about 2 months due to physical injury and the slime that kept growing on it but I know others here have had success keeping it in their tanks safely, so it's certainly possible, For plants, I hated my micro sword and I think you will have a hard time keeping it with Goldies. It was really slow to root and spread in my betta tank even with high lighting. If youre looking for a ground cover type plant I would personally try dwarf sag... It's possible they'll nibble it of they're inclined, but it's a fast grower/spreader and doesn't have a lot of requirements. Along the same lines, Val is always am easy fast growing pretty plant, particularly the spiral Val is really nice looking... Again Goldies may possibly nibble this. Jungle Val is a bit thicker/tougher if you think they might use it as a salad bar. Amazon swords, crypts (retrospiralis is my personal favorite), and java fern are alway low maintenance good goldfish tank choices. Water sprite and wisteria are also pretty fast growing plants, but have slightly more chance of becoming salad since their leaves ate delicate Hope this helps some I can't wait to see what you decide
  20. you have a beautiful group
  21. thanks for fixing that Alex, I couldn't figure it out What a cutie!
  22. Okay, so it looks like you don't have a cycle in the 10 gallon, although I am really surprised you don't have any ammonia showing up. So, you can go about this a couple ways since you already have fish. You could: 1. do a fishless cycle on the 110 gallon, while keeping the 2 fish in the 10 gallon and doing regular water changes in this tank - my concern with this is that we want to make sure that ammonia does not begin to rise in this tank as it is ultimately too small for two fish, you would need to keep up on testing the water and changing it if you choose this route. I would up your water changes to 50-80% at a time (making sure you match temp and Ph), and test your water daily in this tank for the next week to figure out exactly how long you can go between water changes. I personally would do a 50-80% change daily in a tank this size. 2. Put the new canister filter on the 10 gallon tank and cycle the filter with the fish in the 10 gallon - again, my concern would be the water params, but if you were willing to do very regular water changes it would be possible. This would mean that you wouldn't need bottled ammonia, as the fish produce the ammonia. 3. Cycle the 110 with the fish in it - my only concern here is that water changes become more of a pain, but you would likely only need to do them weekly since the params will be much more stable in such a large tank. I am curious what others think is the best route? (or if there are other options I forgot to add here?) As a bit of a side note, your Ph in the 10 gallon is too low. For goldfish Ph should be above 7.0, what is your tap Ph?
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