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Everything posted by tithra

  1. do you have the aqueon one? Do you have the tap water turned all the way on (to create max suction?)
  2. can we get a video of both the fish and the tank?
  3. You will definitely want to add a second filter. A canister or HOB would be ideal because internal filters take up valuable space/water volume, but if an internal is the only thing you can get, it will work I'm not super familiar with the internal filters, but I know the U3's are pretty popular and it looks fine to me.
  4. you could even setup a separate empty filter with bamboo in it. It will help out with nitrates Someone here keeps a ton of it outside the tank in containers to help with nitrates..... if only I could remember who it was I'm sure they will see this and weigh in.
  5. They are gorgeous Fang! I love how transparent kupo is
  6. Welcome to the forum!! I'm so glad you found us As you are already finding out, pet stores are unfortunately a very poor source of information for goldfish care, it's really too bad, but you cannot trust what they say. But take comfort in the fact that most of us here started where you are if not worse 1) The fish have been in the tank for 3 days, should I do any water changes? (Pet shop man laughed and said no when I asked him) Yes, definitely do a big water change (at least 80%). I would do a water change daily (50-80%) until you are able to get your test kit. Make sure you get a drop test kit and not strips. The API master test kit comes with everything you need Once you get your test kit, test your water daily to figure out how often you need to change your water to keep the parameters safe. You are going to want to test your water very regularly during the next 1-3 months until you are cycled. Your aim is to keep ammonia and nitrite as close to 0ppm as possible. If you see them rise to .25-.5ppm, it's time for a big water change. Once you get nitrates, aim to keep these below 20 ppm. Also, if you can get Seachem Prime water conditioner, this will help keep your water safe between daily water changes (it detoxifies ammonia for a period of 24-48 hours, along with conditioning your water) 2) There is a piece of wood in tank, which I bought from shop. It seems to have some cotton wool growing on it - I read that it is probably harmless, any ideas? This is pretty typical of new driftwood. It is harmless, but you might wipe it off during your water changes. Please make sure your driftwood has no holes/hollow areas, as these can create areas for anaerobic bacteria to grow that can make your fish sick. 3) How often should I feed - have found a lot of different opinions Young growing fish need multiple small meals a day (2-3 at minimum), but also remember that while you are cycling the more you feed the more ammonia is produced. You don't want to deny your fish of the food they need while you cycle, but you may want to go a little easy on feedings until you are cycled Here are a couple good articles on feeding by rain garden goldfish breeder steve hopkins: http://www.kokosgold...-steve-hopkins/ by member pearlscaleperfect: (scroll down to 'feeding') http://forgetthebowl.tumblr.com/ Ps: Shop said I can put 6 more fish in tank, but I knew before I bought fish that Orandas need a large aquarium. Some websites said at least 40 Litres per fish. Being very small, I think they should be fine in this tank for now, and if we need to buy a larger tank, we will do so in due course. Eeek. Pet stores are so..... 40 liters per fish is the absolute minimum, this is very temporary setup for a fish (think 6 mos temporary at most). Goldfish really need 56-75 liters per fish (15-20 gallons). This is because they can grow very large (not just orandas, any type of goldfish), upwards of 10 inches, and they also produce a lot of waste. Your current tank is OK for now, but you will want to begin thinking about upgrading to a 114-151 liter tank. Finally, you are also going to need good filtration for your tank. A filter (or filters) that run 10x the tank volume in liters per hour is recommended. So, for your 90 liter, you should have at least 900 lph of filtration. Also, cartridges are a waste, so take a look at this link if you use cartridges: http://www.kokosgold...ob-filters-r248 Hope this helps! Please don't be shy if you have questions it can be a lot to take in
  7. you should take a look in the planted tank photos section of the forum for some inspiration
  8. Okay, since the cyst is looking better let's go ahead and bring the salt down to .1% (1 tsp per gallon) and treat with prazi. It's possible that the stress of this cyst took a toll on his immune system and allowed some flukes to get a foot hold. Here's the basic treatment schedule: Day 1: add prazi (and .1% salt) Day 4: big water change (add back in whatever salt you took out with every water change) Day 5: big water change, add prazi Day 9: add prazi Day 12: water change Day 13: water change add prazi Continue until you have added prazi 4-6 times. If his cyst looks pretty healed over (you can put up a pic if you're not sure) and you do not see any others developing, you may want to consider putting him back in the main tank and treating everyone for flukes together if there are fish in the main tank that have not been treated or not treated recently.
  9. I only say this because there is a chance it will make him floaty, as this has happened with other fish in the past. He may also be fine. The alternative is to just make gel food and add some probiotics to it. I'll leave it up to you
  10. I'd personally go with the jumpstart unless your fish has a history of swim bladder issues
  11. The jumpstart is a probiotic food that's good to feed after the MG, (its a package deal) but you could also make a gel food and add some probiotics to it to feed after the MG. either way you'll want to feed a probiotic food after treatment
  12. sure! I am in full support of more water changes
  13. awww we haven't seen wakka in so long!! Is wakka being a boy a new thing??? or was it just me that thought he was a lady fish? Anyway, he is one of my favorites here so cute.
  14. Extra water changes never hurt Let's watch him for a couple days and see how he behaves, since it sounds like he has perked up a bit Keep an eye on how much he is bottom sitting versus active and whether fins are clamped or not. Also keep an eye on your water params, could you test them 24 hours from your last water change and see how they are? Its possible there was a little ammonia build up that was bothering him. It also may just be the salt that he is adjusting to, as some fish can be pretty sensitive to the higher salt concentrations.
  15. perfect! Keep us updated on where you are with salting You are also going to want to do frequent water changes. Daily changes (50-80%) if you are able, if you absolutely can't swing daily changes for whatever reason, aim for at least every 2-3 days, and vacuum the gravel well. This will help to cut down the population in the gravel/water
  16. I concur fantail, and a cute one at that
  17. the low to mid 70's is fine, but if you want to try throwing a heater in and put it at 78 this won't hurt You can either try to catch a look while he is breathing (this will be easier with a larger fish) or you can grab him and ever so gently pull back the gill plate slightly with your fingernail to have a look. You may even be able to get a good enough look just pulling him up out of the water a little, as his gills should open wide doing this. Do you have prazi on hand from treating before? The poo is good, and not mushy is also a good sign How long is he bottom sitting at a time?
  18. adding water from the main tank to the QT won't do any good, as it's not the water that is cycled, it is the filter media that is cycled. So if you want to cycle the QT, just steal a little filter media from the main tank filter to seed the QT filter with Check out your local petco, some are having their dollar per gallon sale right now
  19. Alright, I am really stuck on this topic Koko, I am not seeing where in the link you posted it says that Prime will interfere with the cycle, I just see it saying that you don't need to use it because you don't have to worry about ammonia/nitrite build up with a fishless cycle. What about the info that alex got from the seachem reps awhile ago (here: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/page/index.html/_/water-quality-articles/why-seachem-prime-detoxifies-ammonia-but-cannot-r190 ) Quote: 1. Depending on the dosage added, Prime will have degraded anywhere between 24-48 hours after adding to the tank. 2. Prime binds to free ammonia and converts the ammonia into an imidium salt. This process is irreversible in the sense that you can't add another chemical to the tank to release the free ammonia from Prime. This imidium salt is still available to the biological filter to be consumed and converted into nitrite. 3. As long as Prime is still active in the tank, the ammonia is non-toxic. However, as Prime degrades (24-48 hours), it will release the ammonia back to its free (toxic) form. I have also emailed seachem asking specifically whether prime would interfere with a fishless cycle. I hope I am not coming off as argumentative, I just want to understand, and if I am wrong I want a definitive answer why so that I understand, because my understanding now is that the ammonia is still available to the cycle and can still be consumed by the BBs, it is just in a different form, and even then, in two days it will be back to the regular form and since we do water changes so rarely in a fishless cycle I just don't understand how it would impact things, but I think it is obviously really important to know since so many of us use and recommend prime (I also hate to have to recommend two different water conditioners for people, one for when you cycle, and one for when you get fish)
  20. how do his gills look? what percentage is salt currently at? have you ever treated for flukes? will you feel his belly too back near the vent and let us know how it feels? Have you seen poo recently? How is that looking? (sorry for the 20 questions )
  21. Is he rousing when you come near the tank? Still eating?
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