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tithra

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Everything posted by tithra

  1. Beautiful!!! I absolutely adore cheesecake's colors!
  2. You're anubias should fine for now they're pretty hardy!
  3. I'm not sure what it is, but I don't think it's anything to worry about
  4. In the equipment section of the forum there is an article I wrote about using par instead of wpg. Take a look at that and let us know if you have questions. (I'd link but I'm on my phone)
  5. The only real advantage to Eco complete over sand is that it has a high cation exchange capacity - meaning that when we add root tabs it is able to store those nutrients better than something like sand. But I don't think it has enough advantages to justify spending the money on it honestly don't get me wrong, I like Eco complete, just not sure it's worth it in this situation.
  6. I run 4x t5ho bulbs on all my tanks. On two tanks I have aquaticlife fixtures on my other I have a sunlight supply tek light. I also run co2 and dose heavy ferts though. Yes, carpeting plants will grow leggy in low light, this doesn't look great for a carpet glosso is especially prone to being leggy. The marselias a actually a great choice for small carpeting plants in a low light tank because they tend to stay low , but they are very slow growers. Dwarf hair grass is a grass obviously so it won't get leggy. It would probably do best with medium light levels. Dwarf sag is a bit of a larger foreground plant but it's super easy and does great in low light, same with crypt parva
  7. That sounds like a good plan if you add the light Carpeting plants will do just fine in sand. I'm wondering where the idea that sand is not good came from? There are probably better carpeting choices for a carpeting plant than dwarf baby tears (HC). HC tends to do best with added co2 and high light. It's an easy plant if you meet these needs, but without these things it is difficult to grow. There are many other options that are easier such as dwarf hair grass, glosso, and marselia minuta/quadrifolia to name a few there are even small crypts like crypt par a that could be used in a low light tank for foreground or Pygmy chain sword or dwarf sag
  8. Yep as long as you have somewhere to put your fish in the meantime it's fine to treat the whose tank. I just didn't want your fish in the hydrogen peroxide Good luck!
  9. Take a look at this, if you have hydrogen peroxide you could follow the full protocol, if not just follow the excel part (and I would do all this outside the tank, put the roots in a separate tank/bucket for treatment) http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=203684
  10. Yep, if you add flourish tabs and replace them occasionally, you should be able to grow anything in the sand that the light will support plants are so much fun! Glad you are going this route keep asking questions, there are lots of people here keeping plants (I would say the majority of us have planted tanks at this point!) heavy root feeders such as crypts and swords will especially appreciate root tabs nearby. These plants with large root systems tend to get most of their nutrients from the substrate. Stem plants, which tend to have smaller root systems, tend to gather more nutrients from the water column. Okay, yeah two 18 in bulbs on a 55 isn't much light at all. If you're able to grab a fixture that runs the length of the tank that will help a lot check craigslist too, maybe you'll find a deal
  11. Do you have excel? You can use that too
  12. Naughty fish! You need to talk to Tammy she has naughty fish too
  13. She looks healthy to me other than that one spot, which I'm wondering if it might be a cyst cropping up under the surface there. An eggy fish may show asymmetry but it's typically toward the back of the body near the caudal fins, as opposed to up by the gill plate. Given that her behavior has been generally normal and she is eating well still, I would just continue to keep an eye on her and watch that spot behind the gill for growth/changes.
  14. That's exactly what it is Georgia. My sworn enemy lol Mikey is it only on the roots or is it showing up other places in the tank? You added another light to your tank recently yes?
  15. What do you recommend for fast growing? I have extra pots for root feeders. The fish are so bad though I can barely keep java fern they shred everything Hmmmm...if the java fern is getting torn up I'm not sure any of my suggestions would fair any better water sprite is a nice fast growing plant, but probably will be a delicious treat. What about some floaters like water lettuce or red root floaters?
  16. You just pull it out of the rubber white part. The strainer comes off if you turn and pull
  17. All fixtures of a certain size will have the same watts. What you want to look at is if the fixture is a t8, t5, or t5ho. T8s are the older type of bulbs and give you less output/intensity. A t5ho is going to give you more useable light than a t8 or t5. But you need a fixture that will support these bulbs. Changing out your bulbs isn't going to make much of a difference. The k rating on the bulb is really more about aesthetics, higher k is going to give you a whiter, brighter, cooler (as in bluer) looking light, while lower k is going to give you a warmer looking light. Anything between 5-10k is generally going to grow plants about the same. LED light are another option. Do you know if you have t8 or t5, t5ho bulbs? Sand is totally fine for substrate. There are lots of people with a wide range of plants growing in sand. There's no reason sand should limit your plant choice. All you need to do is throw some root tabs in there. For plants right now you'll want to chose those that do best in low light, which is honestly a good place to start. Low light plants tend to be less demanding, and you reduce your risk of serious algae issues in a Lowe light tank. It's good to learn with easy low light plants. Once you have some confidence with these, then start considering if you want a lighting upgrade Are you saying you have two bulbs now or just one?
  18. Congrats on the upgrade! Bummer about the algae, although there are much worse types to have I agree with others regarding the photoperiod. Every planted tank has some algae, it just comes with the territory. The goal is to balance the tank in a way that algae is not totally taking over. Decrease the time your light is on, consider adding some more plants (fast growers are much less prone to algae than slow growing plants like anubias), and scrub scrub scrub every water change. Hopefully it will get manageable. My 20 gallon is going through some crazy out of control algae right now. I'm in the process of trying to figure out what is causing it, but in the meantime it makes that tank no fun, so I can empathize
  19. Can I "Best Answer" this? :rofl I'm not making this stuff up, I swear! Lol
  20. Ah! Look at that! That is awesome I feel like we need to reunite them
  21. Can you post a pic?? I've been wondering where Hashis siblings are
  22. Now I want to buy some anacharis just to try it again
  23. Lol, well apparently I'm just lucky! 1:19 ratio, 2-3 minutes
  24. Then you have some magical bleach! Those are what made me give up on bleach for anything other than swords and anubias. maybe it's a difference in dip times? how long do you usually dip? When I first started I bleached everything and the first plants I had were vals, anacharis, anubias, and swords. I still bleach everything I don't thing is going to die in bleach. Only plants I generally don't bleach are small carpeting plants or expensive sensitive plants like the syngonanthus, simply because they were too expensive to risk it I killed duckweed once with bleach, but that's about the only issue I've had so far I noticed that they would go see-through almost instantly, and I've tried varying degrees of bleach intensity. The last try I gave anacharis was a 30 second bleach dip, at just over half of our regularly recommended bleach ratio. I've destroyed quite a few bunches of vals the same way. That being said, they would completely fall apart in the tank, and make a huge mess, but they did eventually grow back. Ever since then, I just PP those, but I can't do fancy plants anyway because.....well, you know. oh I know well, proceed with caution with bleach then, if you are attached to the anacharis you may want to go a different route
  25. Then you have some magical bleach! Those are what made me give up on bleach for anything other than swords and anubias. maybe it's a difference in dip times? how long do you usually dip? When I first started I bleached everything and the first plants I had were vals, anacharis, anubias, and swords. I still bleach everything I don't thing is going to die in bleach. Only plants I generally don't bleach are small carpeting plants or expensive sensitive plants like the syngonanthus, simply because they were too expensive to risk it I killed duckweed once with bleach, but that's about the only issue I've had so far
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